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AT  WASHINGTON — EAST  FRO: 


A SOUVENIR  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CAPITAL, 


Picturesque 

WASH  INGTON: 

Pen  and  Pencil  Sketches 


Of  its  Scenery,  History,  Traditions,  Public  and  Social  Life,  with  Graphic 
Descriptions  of  the  Capitol  and  Congress,  the  White 
House  and  the  Government  Departments, 


Together  with  Artistic  Views  at  Mount  Vernon,  a Map  of  the  City  of 
Washington,  and  Diagrams  of  the  Halls  of  Congress. 


By  Joseph  West  Moore. 


Providence  ; J.  A.  & R.  A.  Reid,  Publishers. 

1887. 


Copyright  by  J.  A.  8c  R.  A.  Reid. 


MRS.  GROVER  CLEVELAND, 


Present  Mistress  of  the  White  House. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


BY  THE  FOLLOWING  ARTISTS  : 


S.  S.  Kilburn, 
Frank  Myrick, 
Schell  & Hogan, 
A.  B.  Shute, 


F.  B.  Schell, 
R.  Sayer, 

A.  C.  Warren, 
A.  L.  Bodwell- 


Engraved  by  S.  S.  Kilburn,  Boston. 


<1I7.S3 

D\ 


PREFACE. 


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« 

In  the  following  pages  the  author  has  endeavored  to  narrate 
clearly  and  accurately  the  interesting  story  of  the  capital  of  the 
American  Nation  — how  it  has  grown  in  the  less  than  one  hundred 
years  of  its  existence  from  an  unpromising  settlement  to  be  a bright, 
delightful,  and  prosperous  city ; a capital  worthy  of  the  Nation  that 
has  become  in  about  the  same  length  of  time  one  of  the  grandest 
and  most  powerful  in  the  world. 

With  the  story  of  the  development  and  present  appearance  of  the 
city,  it  has  been  the  purpose  to  give  the  fullest  and  most  authentic 
particulars  of  all  the  institutions  of  the  government  within  its  borders, 
how  they  were  established,  how  they  are  now  conducted, and  numer- 
ous details  of  national  affairs,  which  it  is  believed  will  be  of  interest 
and  importance  to  every  American.  The  aim  has  been  to  present  in 
simple,  attractive  form  the  information  that  readers  would  be  most 
likely  to  desire  concerning  the  city  of  Washington  and  the  great 
departments  of  the  government ; to  make  the  volume  one  of  thor- 
ough, competent  reference,  as  well  as  of  pleasant  reading. 

Picturesque  Washington  is  therefore  offered  to  the  public  with 
the  hope  that  it  will  prove  acceptable  to  those  who  know  and  admire 


8 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


the  National  City,  and  also  to  those  who  are  desirous  of  becoming 
acquainted  with  it  and  its  many  objects  of  interest.  The  illustrations 
comprise  the  prominent  features  of  the  city  and  environs,  and  the 
government  edifices.  They  have  been  carefully  executed,  from 
special  drawings,  by  a number  of  the  most  skillful  engravers  in  the 
country. 

In  preparing  this  work  the  best  authorities  have  been  consulted, 
the  writer  has  visited  and  thoroughly  inspected  every  place  described, 
and  bas  also  received  most  valuable  assistance  in  gathering  informa- 
tion from  many  high  officials  of  the  government. 

More  than  fifty  years  ago  an  eloquent  writer  penned  these  lines  : 
“The  Nation  has  founded  a city  that  bears  and  will  transmit  to  pos- 
terity the  name  of  Washington  and  his  renown.  It  is  a living,  in- 
telligent monument  of  glory,  and  will  reflect,  as  it  grows  in  wealth 
and  splendor,  the  inestimable  consequences  resulting  to  the  country 
from  his  martial  qualities  and  patriotic  virtues.” 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I . 

THE  WASHINGTON  OF  TO-DAY A BEAUTIFUL  CITY  OF  PARKS  AND 

PALACES ITS  LOCATION  ON  THE  POTOMAC  RIVER THE  DISTRICT 

OF  COLUMBIA  EARLY  TRADITIONS  AND  HISTORICAL  STATEMENTS 

SELECTION  OF  THE  FEDERAL  TERRITORY A REMARKABLE 

PIECE  OF  POLITICAL  HISTORY, PaGES  I7-25 

CHAPTER  II. 

FOUNDING  THE  NATIONAL  CAPITAL l’eNFANT’s  PLAN  OF  WASHING- 
TON  THE  ORIGINAL  PROPRIETORS  OF  THE  LAND  A LOVELY 

HEIRESS,  AND  HER  WOOERS REMOVAL  OF  THE  SEAT  OF  GOVERN- 
MENT TO  THE  CAPITAL  CITY HISTORICAL  SKETCHES THE 

BRITISH  INVASION PECULIAR  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  OF  THE 


EARLY  DAYS GRADUAL  DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  CITY THE  CIVIL 

WAR,  . . ■ Pages  27-47 


CHAPTER  III. 

GROWTH  OF  WASHINGTON  SINCE  187O THE  IMPROVEMENTS  OF  THE 

BOARD  OF  PUBLIC  WORKS  — A WONDERFUL  TRANSFORMATION, 
CAUSED  BY  THE  EXPENDITURE  OF  TWENTY  MILLIONS CHARAC- 
TERISTICS OF  THE  QUEENLY  POTOMAC  CITY ITS  GOVERNMENT, 

POPULATION,  AND  BUSINESS THE  SPACIOUS  STREETS  AND  AVE- 
NUES, FINE  PARKS  AND  SQUARES  STATUES  TO  WAR  HEROES 

LONG  BRIDGE THE  WASHINGTON  MONUMENT,  . . . PaGES  49-67 

CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  CAPITOL ADOPTION  OF  THE  PLAN LAYING  OF  THE  CORNER- 
STONE BY  PRESIDENT  WASHINGTON THE  ARCHITECTS PARTIAL 

DESTRUCTION  OF  THE  EDIFICE  BY  BRITISH  TROOPS  THE  OLD 

CAPITOL THE  PRESENT  MAJESTIC  EDIFICE ITS  GREAT  DOME, 

STATUE  OF  FREEDOM,  BRONZE  DOOR,  AND  STATUARY THE  EAST- 
ERN AND  WESTERN  PARKS NAVAL  MONUMENT THE  BOTANICAL 

GARDEN  VIEW  FROM  THE  CAPITOL  DOME,  ....  PaGES  69-87 


lO  PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 

CHAPTER  V . 

INTERIOR  OF  TIIE  CAPITOL THE  ROTUNDA ITS  HISTORICAL  PAINT- 
INGS AND  CANOPY THE  NATIONAL  STATUARY  HALL STATUES 

CONTRIBUTED  BY  THE  STATES THE  SUPREME  COURT  OF  THE 

UNITED  STATES THE  COURT  CHAMBER FAMOUS  JUSTICES  AND 

INTERESTING  COURT  CUSTOMS THE  LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS 

DETAILS  OF  THE  VAST  NATIONAL  COLLECTION  OF  BOOKS,  PaGES  89-IO5 

CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  CONGRESS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES ITS  FIRST  SESSION  IN  THE 

CAPITAL  CITY THE  OLD  HALLS  OF  LEGISLATION QUAINT  CUS- 

TOMS OF  BY-GONE  DAYS  — GREAT  STATESMEN  AND  THEIR  CHARAC- 
TERISTICS   ANECDOTES  AND  PERSONALITIES  THE  PRESENT 

HOUSES  OF  CONGRESS SENATE  AND  HOUSE  EXTENSIONS  OF  THE 

CAPITOL, Pages  107-121 


CHAPTER  VII. 

CONGRESS  CONTINUED — MANNER  OF  LEGISLATION  IN  BOTH  HOUSES 

THE  ENORMOUS  COST  OF  A SESSION HOW  MILLIONS  ARE  SPENT 

SENATORIAL  SKETCHES  A GLANCE  AT  THE  HOUSE  OF  REPRE- 
SENTATIVES  CLAIMANTS  AND  LOBBYISTS THE  CONGRESSIONAL 

RECORD THE  DISTRIBUTION  OF  PUBLIC  DOCUMENTS,  PaGES  I23-135 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE  WHITE  HOUSE  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

BUILDING  AND  GROUNDS THE  MAGNIFICENT  STATE  APARTMENTS 

LIFE  IN  THE  PRESIDENTIAL  MANSION THE  PRESIDENT  AND  HIS 

OFFICIALS STATE  DINNERS,  FETES,  AND  RECEPTIONS FORMER 

PRESIDENTS  AND  THEIR  WIVES  — SKETCHES  AND  ANECDOTES, 

Pages  137-150 

CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  WHITE  HOUSE  CONTINUED SKETCHES  OF  THE  PRESIDENTS  AND 

THEIR  MANNER  OF  LIVING THE  BRILLIANT  SOCIAL  EVENTS DIS- 

TINGUISHED WOMEN  WHO  HAVE  PRESIDED  OVER  THE  HOUSEHOLD 

SCENES  AND  INCIDENTS  FROM  THE  BEGINNING  OF  THE  CENTURY 

TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME, PaGES  151-166 


CHAPTPIR  X. 

THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  STATE THE  SECRETARY  OF  STATE  AND  THE 

OFFICIALS VARIOUS  DIVISIONS  OF  THE  DEPARTMENT STATE, 


CONTENTS, 


II 


WAR,  AND  NAVY  BUIDDING ANCIENT  RECORDS THE  DIPLOMATIC 

AND  CONSULAR  SERVICE FOREIGN  LEGATIONS  AT  THE  CAPITAL 

THE  ORIENTAL  AMBASSADORS DIPLOMATIC  FETES,  PaGES  167-I74 

CHAPTER  XI. 

THE  TREASURY  DEPARTMENT THE  IMMENSE  STOREHOUSE  OF  THE 

GOVERNMENT  FUNDS PRINCIPAL  SUB-DIVISIONS  - — ■ SECRETARY  OF 

THE  TREASURY  AND  HIS  WORK THE  TREASURY  “ AUTOCRAT  ” 

THE  MASSIVE  MONEY- VAULTS COUNTING  MILLIONS  OF  DOLLARS  — 

SINGULAR  FACTS  OF  THE  REDEMPTION  DIVISION MANUFACTURING 

THE  NATIONAL  CURRENCY THE  SECRET  SERVICE TREASURY 

TRANSACTIONS, PaGES  175-1S8 


CHAPTER  XII. 

WAR  AND  NAVY  DEPARTMENTS  THE  VARIOUS  DIVISIONS HEAD- 

qUARTERS  OF  THE  ARMY THE  MILITARY  FORCE ARMY  MEDICAL 

MUSEUM THE  WEATHER  BUREAU  AND  ITS  MODE  OF  OPERATION 

THE  soldiers’  HOME  NAVAL  AFFAIRS THE  NAVY  YARD 

THE  NATIONAL  OBSERVATORY, PaGES  1 89-303 

CHAPTER  XIII  . 

THE  POST-OFFICE  DEPARTMENT ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  POSTAL  SER- 
VICE  THE  CONTRACT  DIVISION  BIDDING  FOR  THE  “ STAR  ” 

ROUTES THE  DEAD-LETTER  OFFICE ITS  PECULIAR  WORK  AND 

ITS  WORKERS  MONEY-ORDER  OFFICE  POSTAL  FACTS  AND 

FIGURES, Pages  205-2 1 1 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  INTERIOR THE  PATENT-OFFICE  AND  MUSEUM  OF 

MODELS THE  PENSION-OFFICE  ITS  ENORMOUS  EXPENDITURE 

AND  BUSINESS GENERAL  LAND  OFFICE HOW  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS 

ARE  DISPOSED  OF BUREAU  OF  INDIAN  AFFAIRS BUREAU  OF 

EDUCATION, Pages  213-224, 


CHAPTER  XV. 

DEPARTMENT  OF  JUSTICE UNITED  STATES  COURTS DEPARTMENT  OF 

AGRICULTURE THE  MUSEUM  AND  PLANT-HOUSES THE  GROWING 

AND  DISTRIBUTION  OF  SEEDS EXPERIMENTS  IN  AGRICULTURE 

THE  SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION  AND  ITS  WORK NATIONAL  MU- 
SEUM  THE  GREAT  COLLECTIONS  OF  NATURAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL 

PRODUCTS GOVERNMENT  PRINTING-OFFICE,  . . PaGES  225-237 


12 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 
CHAPTER  XVI. 


SKETCHES  OF  CITY  LIFE THE  FASHIONABLE  QUARTER PALATIAL 

MANSIONS THE  ROUND  OF  SOCIAL  FESTIVITY OFFICIAL  AND 

SOCIETY  ETIQITETTE THE  GOVERNMENT  CLERKS CUSTOMS  OF 

THE  PUBLIC  SERVICE THE  NEGRO  POPULATION ODD  CHARAC- 
TERS AND  WAYS  OF  LIVING, PaGES  239-250 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

CITY  INSTITUTIONS CORCORAN  GALLERY  OF  ART THE  LOUISE  HOME 

PROMINENT  CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS CONVENT  OF  THE  VISI- 
TATION  THE  PUBLIC  MARKETS PI.ACES  OF  AMUSEMENT,  HOTELS, 

BENEVOLENT  INSTITUTIONS,  ETC. MASONIC  TEMPLE ODD  FEL- 
LOWS’ BUILDING THE  CEMETERIES  GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF 

CITY  AFFAIRS, PaGES  251-266 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THE  ENVIRONS HOWARD  UNIVERSITY COLUMBIAN  UNIVERSITY 

WAYLAND  SEMINARY NATIONAL  DEAF-MUTE  COLLEGE GOVERN- 
MENT HOSPITAL  FOR  THE  INSANE GEORGETOWN THE  COLLEGE 

OF  THE  JESUITS GREAT  FALLS  OF  THE  POTOMAC CHESAPEAKE 

AND  OHIO  CANAL ARLINGTON THE  GREAT  NATIONAL  MILITARY 

CEMETERY ALEXANDRIA, PaGES  267-277 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

MOUNT  VERNON PRESENT  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  VENERATED  HOME  OF 

GEORGE  WASHINGTON THE  GROUNDS  AND  MANSION- — WASHING- 
TON’S TOMB THE  CHAMBER  IN  WHICH  HE  DIED  APARTMENTS 

OF  THE  MANSION  THE  FIRST  PRESIDENT’S  LIFE  ON  HIS  VIRGINIA 

PLANTATION HOW  THE  .MOUNT  VERNON  ASSOCIATION  ACQUIRED 

THE  HLSTORIC  PROPERTY, PaGES  279-295 

CHAPTER  XX. 

HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIONS  TO  VISITORS  TO  THE  NATIONAL  CAPITAL A 

GOOD  WAY  TO  SEE  AND  ENJOY  THE  PRINCIPAL  OBJECTS  OF  IN- 
TEREST IN  A SHORT  TIME  THE  HOURS  TO  VISIT  THE  CAPITOL, 

THE  WHITE  HOUSE,  AND  THE  DEPARTMENTS GENERAL  INFORMA- 


TION RELATING  TO  THE  CITY  AND  ITS  CUSTOMS,  . . PaGES  296-302 

Index,  ......  305 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE- 

A Few  Moments  of  Leisure,  .......  67 

All  Souls’  Unitarian  Church,  .......  263 

Along  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal,  .....  166 

Along  the  Wharves  at  Georgetown,  ......  273 

Anthony  Pollok  Mansion,  .......  245 

Arlington  House,  (formerly  Residence  of  Gen.  R.  E.  Lee),  . . 269 

Baltimore  and  Potomac  Railroad  Depot,  . . . . -57 

Bartholdi  Fountain,  in  the  Botanical  Garden,  . . . .41 

Blaine,  James  G.,  Mansion,  .......  241 

Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing,  ......  179 

Capitol  — 

Chamber  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  . . 97 

East  Front,  .........  2 

Hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  . . . . . . 122 

Main  Entrance,  .........  73 

Marble  Group  on  the  Portico  of  the,  . . . . .41 

National  Library  — 

Left  Division,  ........  loi 

Main  Division,  ........  ioi 

Right  Division,  ........  loi 

President’s  Room,  . . . . . . . .119 

Retiring-Room  of  the  House,  . . . . . .131 

Rogers  Bronze  Door,  ........  79 

Rotunda,  . . . . . . . . .111 

Senate  Chamber,  ........  106 

Senate  Reception  Room,  . . . . . . .115 

Statuary  Hall,  .........  85 

West  Front,  .........  93 

Center  Market,  .........  48 

Group  of  Hucksters,  ........  48 

Chapel  at  Oak  Hill  Cemetery,  .......  266 

College  of  the  Jesuits  at  Georgetown,  .....  275 

Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art,  .......  253 

Davie  Burns  Cottage,  . . . . . . . .21 

Department  of  Agriculture  Building,  .....  229 

Department  of  Justice  Building,  ......  227 

District  Court  House,  ........  53 

Don  Cameron  Mansion,  ........  249' 

Duddington  House,  . . . . . . . . .31 

Eighth  and  H Streets,  northwest,  showing  Calvary  Baptist  Church,  261 
English  Legation  Building,  .......  301 

Entrance  to  Long  Bridge,  . . . . . . . i;i 


H 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


PAGE. 


FaRRAGUT  SqUARE,  SHOWING  THE  RUSSIAN  LEGATION  BuiLDING,  . . 238 

Ford’s  Old  Theatre,  in  which  President  Lincoln  was  Shot,  . . 37 

Franklin  School  Building,  .......  302 

French  Legation  Building,  .......  173 

Garfield  Memorial  Church,  (Christian  Disciples),  . . . 365 

Garfield  Memorial  Tablet  in  the  Baltimore  & Potomac  Railroad 

Depot,  ..........  61 

General  Post-Office,  ........  209 

German  Legation  Building,  .......  173 

Government  Printing-Office,  .......  233 

G Street,  showing  Foundry  and  Epiphany  Churches,  . . . 203 

H AND  Sixteenth  Streets,  showing  St.  John’s  Church,  . . -35 

House  in  which  President  Lincoln  Died,  . . . . .45 

Howard  University,  ........  277 

Landmark  on  B Street,  northwest,  .....  235 

Louise  Home,  ..........  259 

Maso.nic  Temple,  .........  183 

Massachusetts  Avenue,  showing  Church  of  the  Ascension,  . . 174 

Metropolitan  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  .....  204 

Mount  Vernon  — the  Home  of  Washington,  .....  281 

Eastern  Portico,  ........  283 

From  the  Potomac,  ........  278 

Hall  at,  ..........  293 

Martha  Washington’s  Bed-chamber,  .....  291 

Old  Tomb  at,  .........  2S6 

State  Parlor,  .........  295 

Tomb  of  Washington,  ........  287 

Washington’s  Bed-chamber,  .......  290 

National  Military  Cemetery  at  Arlington,  . . . . .271 

National  Museum,  .........  231 

Naval  Observatory,  ........  201 

Navy  Yard,  from  the  Potomac,  .......  191 

New  Pension  Building,  ........  212 

Section  of  Frieze  Ornamentation  on,  . . . . . 223 

.Old  Capitol,  ..........  26 

Patent  Office,  .........  215 

North  Hall  — Museum  of  Models,  . . . . . .219 

South  Hall — Museum  of  Models,  . . . . . .221 

Pennsylvania  Avenue  at  Vernon  Row,  . . . . .19 

From  the  Treasury  Building,  ......  68 

Portrait  of  Grover  Cleveland,  President  of  the  United  States,  . 4 

Portrait  of  Mrs.  Grover  Cleveland,  ......  5 

Scene  in  the  Colored  Quarter,  .......  39 

Senator  Bayard  Mansion,  ........  297 

Seventh  Street,  northwest,  .......  23 

Signal  Office  of  the  Weather  Bureau,  .....  195 

Smithsonian  Institution,  ........  299 

Soldiers’  Home,  .........  197 

State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  .......  169 

.St.  Dominick’s  Roman  Catholic  Church,  .....  i.W 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE. 

Statue  of  Admiral  Fakragut,  ....... 

Civilization,  .........  i6i 

Emancipation,  . . . . . . . . .145 

Freedom,  ........  Front  Cover. 

General  Greene,  . . . . . . . .41 

General  Jackson,  by  Mills,  .......  41 

General  McPherson,  . . . . . . . .145 

General  Rawlins,  ........  14c 


General  Scott,  at  the  Soldier’s  Home, 


General  Scott,  by  Brown,  .......  161 

Gener.al  Thomas,  ........  14- 

GENERAL  Washington,  by  Greenough,  . . . . .161 

General  Washington,  by  Mills,  . . . . . .41 

Naval  Statue,  or  Monument  of  Peace,  . . . . . i6i 

Tenth  and  G Streets,  northwest,  showing  First  Congregational 

Church,  ..........  250 

Treasury  Building,  .........  ijy 

Van  Ness  Mansion,  .........  29 

Washington,  from  the  Smithsonian  Grounds,  . . . .16 

Washington,  from  the  State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  . . .16 

Washington  in  1810,  26 

Washington  Monument,  ........  63 

White  House,  Conservatory  of,  ....... 

Blue  Room,  .........  1^3 

East  Room,  . . . . . . . . .1:53 

Green  Room,  .........  133 

From  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  .......  136 

From  the  East,  ......... 

From  the  South,  ........  141 

President’s  Library,  ........  133 

Rear  View  of,  .........  3 

Red  Room,  . . . . . . . . • i^3 

State  Dining-Room,  . . . . . . , -153 

Windom  Mansion,  .........  237 

Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  Building,  ....  1S7 


PLANS  AND  MAP. 


PAGE. 


MAP  OF  THE  CITY  OF  WASHINGTON,  .....  303 

PLAN  OF  THE  ATTIC  STORY  OF  THE  CAPITOL,  ....  13.}. 

PLAN  OF  THE  BASEMENT  STORY  OF  THE  CAPITOL,  . . . lOJ 

PLAN  OF  THE  HALL  OF  THE  HOUSE  OF  REPRESENTATIVES,  . . I27 

PLAN  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STORY  OF  THE  CAPITOL,  . . .88 

PLAN  OF  THE  SENATE  CHAMBER,  . . . . . -117 


From  the  State,  War,  arrd  Navy  Buildmg  2 From  the  Smahsonian  Grounds. 


CHAPTER  I 


THE  WASHINGTON  OF  TO-DAY  — A BEAUTIFUL  CITY  OF  PARKS  AND  PALACES  — 
ITS  LOCATION  ON  THE  POTOMAC  RIVER  — THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA- 
EARLY  TRADITIONS  AND  HISTORICAL  STATEMENTS  — SELECTION  OF  THE 
FEDERAL  TERRITORY  — A REMARKABLE  PIECE  OF  POLITICAL  HISTORY. 

STANDING  upon  the  lofty,  green-clad  hills  of  Virginia  which 
constitute  the  historic  Arlington  estate,  a magnificent  panorama 
is  unfolded  as  the  eye  sweeps  northward  and  eastward  over 
the  picturesque  region  of  the  District  of  Columbia.  Two  hun- 
dred feet  below,  the  beautiful  Potomac  River,  released  from  the  moun- 
tain ranges  that  have  closely  restrained  its  silvery  stream  for  over  a 
hundred  miles,  quickly  expands  into  a broad  sheet  of  placid  water 
and  glides  onward  to  the  main,  bearing  many  a richly  freighted  craft. 
From  the  circling  heights  of  the  northern  part  of  the  District  to  the 
river  banks  on  the  south,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  are  ponderous 
domes  and  majestic  spires,  countless  turrets  and  roof-tops,  emerald- 
tinted  parks,  massive  monuments,  and  all  the  evidences  of  a great  and 
prosperous  city.  Everywhere  palatial  edifices,  embodying  the  high- 
est architectural  genius  of  the  age,  meet  the  gaze,  and,  grandly  tow- 
ering over  all.  Freedom’s  effigy  can  be  seen  resplendent  on  the  huge 
white  dome  of  the  Nation’s  Capitol.  This  is  the  city  of  Washington 
as  it  appears  to-day — a charming  city  of  parks  and  palaces,  and  the 
grand  seat  of  government  of  “ Time’s  noblest  offspring,”  the  United 
States  of  America. 

It  is  predicted  that  Washington  is  to  be  “ the  future  Queen  City 
of  the  world.”  Its  natural  advantages  give  it  a preeminence  over 
most  American  cities  in  picturesqueness.  Its  site  is  bordered  by  a 
noble  river  and  sheltered  by  a series  of  gradually  sloping  and  thickly 


2 


i8 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


wooded  hills.  Constructed  upon  an  ample  plan,  with  capacity  for  a 
million  people,  the  home  of  a liberal  government  whose  resources 
are  almost  unlimited,  a delightful,  salubrious  place  of  residence,  both 
winter  and  summer,  now  thoroughly  imbued  with  a strong  desire  for 
advancement,  for  rich  adornment  and  luxurious  surroundings,  and 
fast  gathering  into  its  fold  the  excellent  and  desirable  in  science, 
art,  and  literature  — the  capital  of  the  country,  if  it  continues  its  Her- 
culean strides  on  the  path  of  progress  for  a few  years  longer,  can 
boldly  challenge  comparison  with  any  other  city  in  attractiveness 
and  brilliancy.  The  growth  and  development  of  Washington  during 
the  past  ten  years  have  been  wonderful.  Nearly  all  the  old  land- 
marks have  disappeared,  and  out  of  a rude,  unpaved,  dilapidated 
town  has  risen  a stately  city,  with  most  of  the  resources,  the  pleas- 
ures, the  superiority  of  a metropolis.  Once  it  was  called  in  derision 
“the  only  child  of  the  Nation,”  but  now  it  has  attained  to  a mag- 
nificent manhood,  and  is  entirely  worthy  of  the  pride  and  admiration 
of  its  parents. 

There  is  a tradition  that  George  Washington,  when  a mere  youth, 
surveying  the  Virginia  lands  of  the  opulent  Lord  Fairfax,  and  little 
dreaming  of  the  remarkable  career  fate  had  in  store  for  him,  pre- 
dicted that  some  day  a great  city  would  be  located  on  the  territory 
now  known  as  the  District  of  Columbia,  as  the  site  was  so  admirably 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  And  in  later  years  when,  serving  under  the 
ill-fated  General  Braddock,  he  encamped  with  the  British  troops  on 
the  hill  at  present  occupied  by  the  National  Observatory,  it  is  related 
that  he  often  sat  at  the  door  of  his  tent  and  gazed  at  the  undulating 
plateau  on  which  the  city  now  rests,  noted  the  broad  river-front  and 
the  environing  hills,  and  with  the  eye  of  a practical  surveyor  and 
sagacious  man,  traced  out  the  future  abode  of  thousands.  It  is  not 
singular,  therefore,  that  when  he  had  reached  the  summit  of  human 
greatness,  and  had  been  proclaimed  the  Father  of  his  Country,  he 
should  have  exercised  his  authority  to  have  the  National  Capital 
located  on  the  spot  he  had  been  familiar  with  and  admired  from  boy- 
hood. 

The  District  of  Columbia,  known  as  the  Federal  Territory,  as 
originally  laid  out  by  the  first  commissioners  under  the  direction  of 
President  Washington,  embraced  one  hundred  square  miles,  so  located 
as  to  include  the  thrifty  towns  of  Georgetown  in  Maryland,  and  Alex- 
andria in  Virginia,  together  with  the  confluence  of  the  Potomac 
River  and  its  Eastern  Branch,  and  the  adjacent  heights.  Maryland 


EARLY  HISTORY  AND  TILADITIONS. 


19 


PENNSYLVANIA  AVENUE  AT  VERNON  ROW. 


and  Virginia  ceded  to  the  United  States  the  territory  required.  In 
1846,  all  that  portion  of  the  District  lying  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Potomac  was  retroceded  by  Congress  to  tbe  State  of  Virginia,  so 
that  the  Federal  Territory  at  the  present  time  comprises  sixty-four 
square  miles,  and  is  bounded  on  three  sides  by  tbe  State  of  Mary- 
land, having  Montgomery  County  on  its  north.  Prince  George 
County  on  its  east  and  south,  with  the  Potomac  River  on  its  west. 
The  city  of  Washington  occupies  all  the  lower  portion  of  the  Dis- 
trict. Georgetown,  now  known  as  West  Washington,  Tennallytown, 
and  Uniontown  are  the  only  other  places  of  any  importance.  Wash- 
ington is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Potomac,  ii6|-  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  miles  from  the  sea.  It  is  14 

miles  in  circumference,  and  covers  a little  less  than  10  square  miles. 
From  the  southern  part  of  the  city,  where  the  Potomac  expands  to 
the  width  of  a mile,  extends  backward  an  irregular  plain  having  a 
mean  altitude  of  40  feet  above  the  river.  This  plain  carries  the  city 
up  to  the  very  borders  of  a chain  of  hills.  The  greatest  length  of 
Washington  is  4^-  miles  ; the  greatest  breadth,  3|  miles.  It  stretches 
along  the  Potomac  a distance  of  4 miles,  and  3^  miles  along  the 
Anacostia,  or  Eastern  Branch  of  the  Potomac.  The  romantic  beauty 
of  the  location,  the  heights  surrounding  the  city,  from  which  extended 
views  of  the  country  and  the  windings  of  the  river  can  be  obtained, 


20 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


its  attractive  environs,  all  combine  to  render  Washington  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  cities  in  the  country. 

When  Captain  John  Smith  sailed  up  the  Potomac  in  1608,  he 
found  the  country  inhabited  by  numerous  tribes  of  Indians,  continu- 
ally at  war  with  each  other,  and  savage  and  ferocious  as  wild  beasts. 
The  Manahoacs  were  known  as  a powerful  tribe,  and  their  favorite 
camping-ground  was  the  region  now  occupied  by  the  city  of  Wash- 
ington. In  the  spring  the  tribe  assembled  at  the  Potomac  to  catch 
the  luscious  shad  and  herring  as  they  “run”  in  the  river,  and  to 
hold  their  yearly  councils.  Great  feasts  were  made,  and  the  return 
of  the  vernal  season  was  celebrated  with  joyous  ceremonies.  The 
tribal  councils  were  held  very  near  the  spot  where,  two  centuries 
afterward,  the  people  of  the  free  United  States  established  their 
council  hall.  The  Manahoacs  were  constantly  fighting  with  the 
Powhatans  of  Virginia,  and  their  sanguinary  conflicts,  disease,  and 
the  introduction  of  spirituous  liquors  among  them,  rapidly  diminished 
their  numbers,  until  at  last  they  were  forced  to  migrate  westward  and 
ally  themselves  with  the  Tuscaroras.  Where  these  Indians  had  their 
camping-grounds,  archaeological  treasures  in  great  abundance  have 
been  recently  found,  such  as  pestles,  clubs,  stone  axes  and  arrow- 
heads, clay  and  soapstone  pottery,  and  numerous  articles  of  utility 
and  ornament.  Many  of  the  specimens  of  clay  pottery  and  the  orna- 
mental work  exhibit  considerable  skill  and  taste,  and  give  evidence 
that  the  aboriginals  of  the  District  had  attained  some  degree  of  civ- 
ilization. 

In  1623-5  Henry  Fleet,  the  hardy  and  adventurous  English  fur 
trader,  thoroughly  explored  the  Potomac  borders.  He  had  many 
exciting  adventures  with  the  wild  tribes,  and  was  often  in  deadly 
peril.  At  one  time  he  suffered  a long  captivity  among  the  Indians, 
but  he  fortunately  escaped  harm  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  a large 
amount  of  information  concerning  the  new  southern  country.  He 
wrote  of  the  tract  around  Washington  : “ This  place  is  without  ques- 
tion the  most  healthful  and  pleasant  in  all  this  country  and  most  con- 
venient for  habitation  ; the  air  temperate  in  summer  and  not  violent 
in  winter.  The  river  aboundeth  in  all  manner  of  fish,  and  for  deer, 
buffaloes,  bears  and  turkeys  the  woods  do  swarm  with  them,  and  the 
soil  is  exceedingly  fertile.”  Fleet’s  enthusiastic  description  of  the 
country  watered  by  the  Potomac  was  published  in  England,  and  may 
have  influenced  many  of  the  emigrants  to  America  at  that  time  to 
direct  their  steps  toward  Maryland  and  Virginia.  A company  of 


EARLY  HISTORY  AND  TILADITIONS. 


21 


Scotch  and  Irish  people  from  the  mother-country  made  a settlement, 
about  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  within  the  limits  of  what 
is  now  the  District  of  Columbia.  They  obtained  patents  for  a large 
amount  of  land,  divided  it  into  a number  of  good  plantations,  and 
designated  their  adopted  home  “New  Scotland.”  For  nearly  a 
century  this  colony  lived  in  rural  solitude,  enjoying  the  fruits  of  their 
labor.  Some  of  the  descendants  of  these  early  settlers  were  among 
the  original  proprietors  of  the  land  on  which  the  city  of  Washington 
was  eventually  built. 

It  is  told  of  a member  of  this  colony,  by  the  name  of  Pope,  that  he 
set  up  his  lares  and  penates  on  the  top  of  the  hill  where  the  Capitol 
now  stands.  He  called  his  plantation  “Rome,”  and  a little  stream 
that  meandered  along  the  base  of  the  hill,  “the  Tiber,”  believing 
that  in  the  course  of  time  a capital  city  greater  than  imperial  Rome 
would  arise  on  the  spacious  plateau  where  he  cultivated  his  crops. 
To  his  friends  and  companions  he  was  known  as  “Pope  of  Rome.” 
This  simple  farmer  was  endowed  with  prophetic  vision.  Busy  streets 


THE  DAVIE  BURNS  COTTAGE. 


22 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


now  entirely  cover  the  Tiber  creek,  and  above  its  bank  is  the  majes- 
tic legislative  building  of  a vast  continental  nation,  looking  down  upon 
a city  that  in  the  near  future  may  be  even  greater  than  Rome  in  its 
proudest  days. 

The  laying  out  of  Georgetown  was  authorized  by  the  Maryland 
Assembly  in  1751,  and  some  time  later  this  attractive  suburb  of 
Washington  began  existence.  It  soon  grew  into  a town  of  import- 
ance. During  the  Revolutionary  War  it  was  one  of  the  places  of 
deposit  for  military  stores.  The  troops  of  both  armies  marched 
through  its  streets  and  encamped  on  its  steep  hills.  A small  ferry 
connected  it  with  the  Virginia  shore.  In  Suter’s  tavern,  a favorite 
resort  in  those  days,  the  wealthy  land-holders  of  the  neighborhood 
met  on  business  and  for  merr}^-makings,  and  they  made  its  rude 
walls  ring  with  their  jovial  songs  and  stories.  Whenever  Washing- 
ton came  up  the  river  from  his  Mount  Vernon  estate  he  enjo}"ed  the 
good  cheer  of  this  ancient  hostelry,  and  in  Suter’s  he  held  many  of 
his  deliberations  with  the  first  commissioners  engaged  in  the  laying 
out  of  the  Federal  city.  Small  settlements  were  started  on  the  Mar}’- 
land  banks  of  the  Potomac  just  below  Georgetown,  and  several  thriv- 
ing plantations  tilled  by  slaves  dotted  the  site  of  the  future  capital. 

In  1785  Washington  made  an  extended  and  careful  exploration  of 
the  upper  Potomac,  in  order  to  ascertain  if  the  river  could  be  navigated 
above  tide-water  at  Georgetown.  A canoe  or  pirogue  was  expertly 
hollowed  out  of  a large  poplar  tree,  hauled  to  the  river  bank  and 
launched,  and  Washington  with  several  friends,  among  whom  was 
Governor  Johnson,  of  Maryland,  a gallant  soldier  of  the  Revolution, 
started  on  the  important  survey.  The  party  sailed  for  a number  of 
days  in  their  humble  bark  amid  the  sublime  scenery  of  the  upper 
Potomac,  and  made  a complete  exploration,  the  result  of  their  work 
being  that  a company  was  finally  organized  for  the  improvement  of 
the  river,  and  nearly  a million  dollars  expended  in  a series  of  years. 
During  this  unique  voyage  the  distinguished  party  would  seek  quar- 
ters for  the  night  at  the  houses  of  well-to-do  planters  who  lived  near 
the  river,  and  everywhere  they  were  received  as  highly  honored  guests, 
and  a most  generous  hospitality  was  dispensed.  One  night  they  were 
compelled  to  lodge  at  the  house  of  a planter  whose  accommodations 
were  rather  scanty,  and  Washington,  Governor  Johnson,  and  another 
gentleman  were  given  a room  with  two  small  beds.  The  great  chief- 
tain with  a smile  turned  to  his  companions  and  said,  “ Come,  gentle- 
men, who  will  be  my  bed-fellow?”  They  both  declined  the  honor. 


EARLY  HISTORY  AND  TRi\DITIONS 


3 


SEVENTH  STREET,  NORTHWEST. 


however,  and  the  Maryland  governor,  in  relating  the  incident  after- 
ward, said,  “ Greatly  as  I should  have  felt  honored  by  such  distinction, 
yet  the  awe  and  reverence  which  I always  felt  in  the  presence  of  that 
admirable  man  prevented  me  from  approaching  him  so  nearly  " 

There  was  a severe  contest  over  the  selection  of  the  Federal  Ter- 
ritory. In  the  Congress  of  the  Confederation  the  question  of  a per- 
manent seat  of  government  was  broached,  and  propositions  to  estab- 
lish a “ Federal  town,  a Federal  house  for  Congress  and  for  the  Ex- 
ecutive officers,”  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware  River  near  the  Lower 
Falls,  and  also  at  Georgetown  on  the  Potomac,  were  entertained,  but 
did  not  receive  special  sanction.  The  matter  was  somewhat  discussed 
in  the  convention  held  in  Philadelphia  in  1787,  to  revise  the  Federal 
system  of  government,  but  it  was  not  until  the  second  session  of  the 
First  Congress  of  the  United  States  under  the  Constitution,  held  in 
New  York  in  the  summer  of  1790,  that  it  was  finally  decided.  The 
discussion  was  long  and  earnest,  and  a strong  sectional  feeling  was 
developed.  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Trenton,  Harris- 


24 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


burg,  and  many  other  places  urged  their  claims  upon  Congress  to  be 
made  the  capital  city,  and  for  a time  it  seemed  as  if  it  would  be 
impossible  to  make  any  selection.  Maryland  and  Virginia  had  offered 
the  necessary  territory  for  the  Federal  District,  but  the  former  state 
strongly  favored  its  location  at  the  thriving  “ Baltimore  town.”  Many 
votes  were  taken,  and  finally  an  act  was  adopted  by  Congress  which 
received  executive  sanction  in  July,  1790,  giving  the  sole  power  to 
President  Washington  to  select  a Federal  Territory  “ not  exceeding 
ten  miles  square  on  the  river  Potomac  at  some  space  between  the 
mouths  of  the  Eastern  Branch  and  the  Conogocheague  for  the  per- 
manent seat  of  the  government  of  the  United  States.”  ‘ The  new  ter- 
ritory was  to  be  ready  for  the  use  of  the  government  in  1800,  and  in 
the  mean  time  the  “ Federal  town  ” was  to  be  Philadelphia. 

The  final  adoption  of  the  Potomac  site  for  the  national  territory 
was  brought  about  by  a stroke  of  policy  contrived  by  Jefferson  and 
Hamilton.  In  an  article  upon  Congress,  Garfield  speaks  of  the 
matter  as  follows:  “ It  dampens  not  a little  our  enthusiasm  for  the 

superior  virtues  of  the  fathers  to  learn  that  Hamilton’s  monument  of 
statesmanship,  the  funding  bill,  which  gave  life  to  the  public  credit 
and  saved  from  dishonor  the  war  debts  of  the  states,  was  for  a time 
hopelessly  defeated  by  the  votes  of  one  section  of  the  Union,  and  was 
carried  at  last  by  a legislative  bargain  which,  in  the  mildest  slang  of 
our  day,  would  be  called  a ‘ log-rolling  job.’  The  bill  fixing  the  per- 
manent seat  of  the  goveimment  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac  was  the 
argument  which  turned  the  scale  and  carried  the  funding  bill.  The 
bargain  carried  them  both  through.” 

Jefferson  was  appealed  to  by  Hamilton  to  give  his  aid  to  the 
scheme  for  the  assumption  by  the  general  government  of  the  debts 
incurred  by  the  states  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  which  amounted 
to  $20,000,000.  The  bill  had  been  defeated  in  the  House  after  an 
obstinate  struggle,  and  Hamilton  was  earnestly  seeking  to  have  it  re- 
considered, believing  that  the  Eastern  or  creditor  states  would  secede 
from  the  Union  if  their  claims  were  not  allowed.  Mr.  Jefferson  says 
in  his  Ana:  “I  proposed  to  him  (Hamilton)  to  dine  with  me  the 

next  day,  and  I would  invite  another  friend  or  two  and  bring  them 
into  conference  together,  and  I thought  it  impossible  tliat  reasonable 
men  consulting  together  coolly  could  fail,  by  some  mutual  sacrifices 
of  opinion,  to  form  a compromise  which  was  to  save  the  Union.  The 
discussion  took  place.  It  was  finally  agreed  that,  wliatever  import- 
ance had  been  attached  to  the  rejection  of  tlie  proposition,  the  pres- 


A POLITICAL  COMPROMISE. 


25 


ervation  of  the  Union  and  of  concord  among  the  states  was  more 
important,  and  that  therefore  it  would  be  better  that  the  vote  of  re- 
jection should  be  rescinded,  to  effect  which  some  members  should 
change  their  votes.  But  it  was  observed  that  this  pill  would  be 
peculiarly  bitter  to  the  Southern  States,  and  that  some  concomitant 
measure  should  be  adopted  to  sweeten  it  a little  to  them.  There  had 
been  before,  propositions  to  fix  the  seat  of  government  either  at  Phil- 
adelphia or  at  Georgetown  on  the  Potomac  ; and  it  was  thought  by 
giving  it  to  Philadelphia  for  ten  years  and  to  Georgetown  perma- 
nently afterwards,  this  might  act  as  an  anodyne,  and  calm  in  some 
measure  the  ferment  which  might  be  excited  by  the  other  measure 
alone.  So  two  of  the  Potomac  members  agreed  to  change  their  votes, 
and  Hamilton  undertook  to  carry  the  other  point.  In  doing  this  the 
influence  he  had  established  over  the  Eastern  members  effected  his 
side  of  the  engagement,  and  so  the  Assumption  was  passed.” 

Thus  it  was,  that  a good  dinner  and  the  sagacity  of  two  able  men 
healed  a serious  breach  in  the  affairs  of  the  Nation,  and  placed  the 
capital  city  on  the  banks  of  the  “River  of  Swans,”  as  the  Indians 
called  the  Potomac. 

The  selection  of  the  permanent  seat  of  the  government  of  the 
United  States,  so  bitterly  opposed  at  the  time,  particularly  by  the 
members  of  Congress  from  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  New  Jer- 
sey, and  so  ardently  favored  by  the  members  from  the  Southern 
States,  and  by  President  Washington,  has  proved  with  the  passage  of 
years  a most  judicious  one.  Originally  the  boundaries  of  the  Fed- 
eral Territory  were  “ located,  defined,  and  limited  ” as  follows  : “ Be- 
ginning at  Jones’  Point,  being  the  upper  cape  of  Hunting  Creek,  in 
Virginia,  and  at  an  angle  in  the  outset  of  forty-five  degrees  west  of 
the  north,  and  running  in  a direct  line  ten  miles  for  the  first  line  ; then 
beginning  again  at  the  same  Jones’  Point,  and  running  another  direct 
line  at  a right  angle  with  the  first,  across  the  Potomac,  ten  miles  for 
the  second  line  ; then  from  the  termination  of  the  said  first  and  second 
lines,  running  two  other  direct  lines,  of  ten  miles  each,  the  one  cross- 
ing the  Eastern  Branch  of  the  Potomac,  and  the  other  the  Potomac, 
and  meeting  each  other  in  a point.”  This  territory  was  ten  miles 
square,  or  one  hundred  square  miles,  and  comprised  sixty-four  thou- 
sand acres  of  fertile  lands  situated  between  38°,  48'  and  38°,  59'  north 
latitude. 


WASHINGTON  IN  iSlO THE  OLD  CAPITOL, 


CHAPTER  II 


FOUNDING  THE  NATIONAL  CAPITAL— L’ENFANT’S  PLAN  OF  WASHINGTON— THE 
ORIGINAL  PROPRIETORS  OF  THE  LAND— A LOVELY  HEIRESS,  AND  HER  WOO- 
ERS—REMOVAL  OF  THE  SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT  TO  THE  CAPITAL  CITY — 
HISTORICAL  SKETCHES  — THE  BRITISH  INVASION  — PECULIAR  MANNERS  AND 
CUSTOMS  OF  THE  EARLY  DAYS  — GRADUAL  DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  CITY  — 
THE  CIVIL  WAR. 

WHEN  President  Washington  returned  from  his  tour  of  the 
South  in  the  summer  of  1791,  and  the  wheels  of  the 
famous  cream-colored  chariot  in  which  he  had  taken  the 
memorable  ride  of  1,900  miles  rolled  up  to  the  western 
door  of  the  Mount  Vernon  mansion,  he  found  a visitor  awaiting  his 
•coming.  The  visitor  was  Maj.  Pierre  Charles  L’Enfant,  a skillful 
French  engineer,  who  had  been  chosen  to  draw  the  plan  of  “ the  new 
Federal  town.”  The  site  of  the  Federal  District  had  been  selected  by 
Washington  in  the  January  previous,  after  long  and  careful  delibera- 
tion, from  the  105  miles  of  territory  embraced  in  the  boundary  defined 
by  the  act  of  Congress  locating  the  permanent  seat  of  government. 
The  act  was  amended  by  request  of  the  President  so  as  to  include  the 
city  of  Alexandria  and  adjacent  country.  Three  commissioners.  Gov. 
Thomas  Johnson  and  the  Hon.  Daniel  Carroll,  of  Maryland,  and  Dr. 
David  Stuart,  of  Virginia,  were  appointed  to  have  entire  charge  of  the 
surveying  and  laying  out  of  the  district,  and  on  April  15,  1791,  they 
had  laid  the  first  boundary  stone  at  Jones’  Point  on  the  Virginia  side 
of  the  Potomac,  with  impressive  Masonic  ceremony,  in  the  presence 
of  a large  assemblage.  The  commissioners  had  decided  to  call  the 
district  the  “Territory  of  Columbia,”  which  name  it  bore  for  some 
years;  and  the  new  city  to  be  established  on  the  river  bank,  “the 
•city  of  Washington,”  in  honor  of  him  who  was  at  that  time,  and  who 


28 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


in  all  time  shall  be,  the  “first  in  the  hearts  of  his  countrymen.” 
Satisfactory  terms  had  been  arranged  with  the  proprietors  of  the  land 
lying  within  the  bounds  of  the  proposed  city,  and  an  agreement  had 
been  signed  by  the  commissioners  and  the  land-holders.  All  the  land 
used  for  streets  and  squares  was  to  be  relinquished  to  the  government 
without  cost,  and  all  the  land  taken  for  public  buildings  was  to  be 
paid  for  at  the  rate  of  £25  an  acre.  One-half  of  the  proceeds  of  all 
lots  offered  at  public  sale  was  also  to  go  to  the  original  owners,  and 
the  remainder  was  to  be  expended  in  the  erection  of  the  government 
edifices. 

Major  L’Enfant  was  cordially  received  by  Washington,  and  re- 
mained at  Mount  Vernon  in  consultation  with  him  for  nearly  a week, 
during  which  time  the  plan  of  the  Federal  city  was  thoroughly  ma- 
tured. L’Enfant,  who  was  an  educated  soldier,  had  come  to  Amer- 
ica in  1777  from  Paris,  and  had  commended  himself  to  Washington 
by  his  patriotic  zeal  while  serving  as  major  of  engineers  during  the 
Revolutionary  War,  and  a warm  friendship  had  sprung  up  between 
them.  He  had  designed  the  insignia  of  the  Society  of  the  Cin- 
cinnati at  Washington’s  special  request,  and  in  various  ways  had 
demonstrated  the  possession  of  marked  ability.  His  plan  of  the  city 
was  very  elaborate  and  magnificent,  and  it  was  duly  set  forth  on  a 
finely  drawn  map.  It  is  believed  he  partially  followed  the  work  of 
Le  Notre  in  Versailles,  the  seat  of  the  French  government  buildings. 
Broad,  transverse  streets  and  avenues,  numerous  open  squares,  parks, 
circles,  and  triangular  reservations  were  marked  on  the  plan,  the 
places  fpr  the  public  buildings  were  indicated,  and  everything  was 
designed  upon  a spacious  scale. 

Washington  desired  that  “ the  Capitol”  should  occupy  the  centre 
of  the  city,  and  it  was  accordingly  located  on  the  broad  plateau  in 
the  eastern  section,  and  the  Executive  Mansion  and  the  other  public 
buildings  were  located  in  the  western  section,  more  than  a mile  dis- 
tant. In  one  of  his  letters  Washington  says  that  this  wide  separa- 
tion of  Congress  and  the  Executive  departments  was  intended  to 
prevent  members  of  Congress  from  too  frequently  visiting  the  vari- 
ous departments.  L’Enfant’s  design  meeting  the  full  approval  of 
Washington,  and  also  of  Jefferson,  then  Secretary  of  State,  of  whom 
it  was  said  that  “ he  almost  monopolized  the  artistic  taste  and  knowl- 
edge of  the  first  administration,”  it  was  formally  adopted,  and  the 
young  Frenchman  was  engaged  to  superintend  its  execution.  He 
had  as  assistant,  Andrew  Ellicott,  a bright  Pennsylvanian,  who  with 


PLAN  OF  THE  FEDERAL  CITY. 


29 


THE  VAN  NESS  MANSION. 

his  brother  had  established  the  town  of  Ellicott  Mills,  in  Maryland. 
Ellicott  was  a competent  surveyor,  and  a young  man  of  remarkable 
intelligence.  Later  in  life  he  became  professor  of  mathematics  at 
West  Point.  The  streets  and  squares  of  the  city  were  chiefly  laid  out 
by  him,  and  under  his  direction  the  work  progressed  quite  rapidly. 
Before  the  erection  of  any  building  was  allowed  an  exact  survey  was 
made  and  properly  recorded,  and  all  subsequent  building  operations 
had  to  conform  to  this  survey. 

The  states  of  Maryland  and  Virginia  were  greatly  interested  in 
the  founding  of  the  seat  of  the  national  government  within  their 
borders,  and  generously  voted  a large  sum  of  money  as  a gift  to 
the  United  States,  to  aid  in  the  erection  of  the  public  edifices.  After- 
ward, when  it  was  necessary  to  obtain  more  money  to  carry  on  the 
work,  and  Congress  was  strangely  dilatory  in  making  an  appropria- 
tion, and  European  bankers  had  declined  to  advance  funds  to  the 
commissioners,  the  legislature  of  Maryland  promptly  authorized  a 
loan  of  $100,000  in  response  to  the  appeal  of  President  Washington. 

The  most  prominent  proprietors  of  the  land  taken  for  the  city 
were  Daniel  Carroll,  David  Burns,  Notley  Young,  and  Samuel 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


30 

Davidson.  The  Carroll  estate  very  nearly  covered  all  that  part  of 
Washington  known  as  Capitol  Hill,  and  was  called  Duddington 
manor.  Daniel  Carroll  was  a gentleman  of  culture  and  high  social 
standing  in  Maryland.  He  had  been  a delegate  to  the  Philadelphia 
Convention  that  framed  the  Federal  Constitution,  and  a member  of 
the  First  Congress  of  the  United  States.  He  was  a brother  of  the 
Rt.  Rev.  John  Carroll,  the  first  Catholic  bishop  of  Baltimore,  who 
founded  the  great  college  of  the  Jesuits,  at  Georgetown,  and  was  a 
cousin  of  Charles  Carroll,  of  Carrollton,  one  of  the  signers  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence.  As  the  Capitol  was  to  be  located 
adjacent  to  his  estate,  he  believed  that  section  would  become  the 
most  desirable  part  of  the  city,  and  immediately  demanded  exorbitant 
prices  for  building-lots.  Speculators,  possessed  with  the  same  idea, 
bought  a number  of  his  acres,  largely  with  “ promises  to  pay  and 
Stephen  Girard,  the  richest  man  in  Philadelphia  in  those  days,  even 
offered  Carroll  $200,000  for  a certain  portion  of  his  estate,  but  the 
offer  was  refused,  five  times  the  sum  being  demanded.  The  high 
prices  for  lots  on  Capitol  Hill  compelled  many  who  wished  land  for 
the  erection  of  houses  and  stores  to  settle  in  the  northern  and  western 
parts  of  the  city,  and  the  tide  of  population  rapidly  turning  that  way, 
forever  decided  the  fate  of  the  eastern  quarter.  The  city  developed 
on  its  northwestern  side,  which  to-day  is  the  most  populous  and 
fashionable  section. 

Carroll’s  dream  of  great  wealth  was  never  realized.  At  his  death 
he  was  in  embarrassed  circumstances,  and  his  estate  for  a long  time 
after  was  encumbered  with  heavy  obligations.  Recently  a portion 
of  the  Carroll  tract,  upon  which  his  descendants  had  paid  $16,000 
in  taxes  during  the  past  eighty  years,  keeping  its  possession  so  long 
in  hope  of  an  advantageous  sale,  was  finally  disposed  of  for  $3,600. 
The  spacious  “ Duddington  House,”  erected  in  the  early  days  of 
Washington  for  the  residence  of  the  Carroll  family,  still  remains  on 
North  Carolina  Avenue  southeast,  in  a good  state  of  preservation. 

An  interesting  story  is  told  of  this  ancient  brick  mansion. 
Shortly  after  the  streets  of  the  city  were  marked  out  strictly  in  ac- 
cordance with  L’Enfant’s  plan,  Daniel  Carroll,  who  was  one  of  the 
commissioners,  assumed  the  right  to  begin  the  erection  of  his  house 
in  the  middle  of  New  Jersey  Avenue,  near  the  Capitol  grounds. 
I^’Enfant  vigorously  protested  against  its  location,  as  it  would  close 
the  avenue  and  destroy  the  symmetry  of  the  general  plan  of  the  city  ; 
but  his  protests  not  being  heeded,  he  gave  orders  one  morning  to 


FIRST  PROTRIETORS  OF  THE  LAxND 


31 


his  assistant  to  demolish  the  structure.  Carroll  hurried  to  a magis- 
trate, obtained  a warrant  and  stopped  the  demolition  before  it  had 
proceeded  very  far.  That  night,  when  L’Enfant  returned  to  the  city 
from  Acquia  Creek,  where  he  was  working  busily  getting  out  sand- 
stone for  the  new  Capitol,  he  was  much  chagrined  to  find  his  orders 
unfulfilled.  He  vowed  the  house  should  come  down,  and,  organizing 
a gang  of  laborers  secretly,  he  took  them  quietly  up  the  hill  after 
dark,  and  set  them  at  work.  By  sunrise,  not  a brick  of  the  obnox- 
ious dwelling  was  left  standing.  Carroll  was  very  indignant  at  this 
arbitrary  act,  and  made  complaint  to  the  President,  who  ordered  the 
reconstruction  of  “ Duddington  House,”  precisely  as  it  was  before, 
but,  very  wisely,  not  in  the  middle  of  New  Jersey  Avenue.  This 
house  was  the  first  fine  one  erected  in  the  city.  It  is  surrounded  by 
a high  brick  wall,  enclosing  grounds  full  of  majestic  trees,  and  even 
now,  in  its  partially  dilapidated  condition,  shows  considerable  of  its 
former  elegance. 

A very  fortunate  man  was  David  Burns,  another  of  the  original 
land-holders.  His  property  was  situated  largely  in  what  is  now  the 


THE  DUDDINGTON  HOUSE, 


32 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


fashionable  northwest  quarter  of  the  city.  Burns  — “crusty  Davie 
Burns,”  as  he  was  called — was  a very  bigoted,  choleric  Scotchman, 
tond  of  controversy,  and  never  known  to  agree  with  any  one  in  the 
slightest  particular.  He  lived  in  a rude  cottage  near  the  river,  and 
cultivated  a large  plantation  extending  over  the  spot  where  the  White 
House  now  stands.  The  demand  for  his  land  made  him  very  wealthy, 
and  his  only  child,  Marcia  Burns,  was  known  in  all  the  country 
around  as  “the  beautiful  heiress  of  Washington.”  For  some  time 
Burns  was  opposed  to  the  projected  transfer  of  land  to  the  govern- 
ment, and  the  President  and  the  commissioners  had  several  confer- 
ences with  him  in  his  cottage  to  explain  the  advantages  of  the  plan. 
On  one  of  these  occasions,  so  the  tradition  runs,  the  testy  old  planter 
answered  one  of  Washington’s  arguments  by  this  outburst:  “ I sup- 
pose, Mr.  Washington,  you  think  people  are  going  to  take  every  grist 
from  you  as  pure  grain  ; but  what  would  you  have  been  if  you  hadn’t 
married  the  rich  widow  Custis  !”  The  usually  sedate  Washington  at 
this  audacious  remark  is  said  to  have  actually  lost  his  temper,  and 
left  the  house  in  indignation.  He  afterward  spoke  of  the  imperti- 
nent Scotchman  as  “that  obstinate  Mr.  Burns,”  and  would  never 
meet  him  again. 

Miss  Burns  was  placed  by  her  father  in  a cultivated  Baltimore 
family,  where  she  received  an  excellent  social  and  literary  training. 
When  she  returned  to  Washington  after  several  years’  schooling  she 
became  the  belle  of  the  embryo  city,  and  attracted  many  admirers. 
She  was  lovely  in  person,  and  gracious  and  winning  in  her  manners. 
Her  father  could  not  be  induced  to  leave  his  old  house — a small, 
rudely-fashioned  structure,  with  only  two  rooms  on  the  ground  floor, 
and  but  little  better  than  the  cabins  of  the  slaves  who  tilled  his  plan- 
tation— and,  with  all  his  great  wealth,  would  not  change  his  plain 
way  of  living.  The  girl  uttered  no  complaint,  but  came  from  the 
refined  Baltimore  home  at  her  father’s  bidding,  and  resumed  her  for- 
mer life  with  the  lonely  man.  Her  mother  had  died  when  she  was  a 
child,  and  for  years  she  had  been  her  father’s  sole  intimate  companion. 

Troops  of  gallants  began  to  seek  the  favor  of  the  beautiful  heir- 
ess. The  wooers  were  generally  treated  to  cutting  remarks  from 
Burns,  and  promptly  shown  the  door.  Dashing  young  members  of 
Congress  — gay  fortune-seekers  who  saw  in  Marcia  a splendid  prize 
— picked  their  way  across  the  marsh  to  Burns’  hut  on  fine  evenings, 
craftily  allowed  the  old  Scotchman  to  win  their  gold  at  cards,  and 
.awakened  good  feeling  by  generous  gifts  of  mellow  usquebaugh. 


THE  VAN  NESS  MANSION. 


33 


for  which  he  had  a notorious  fondness.  Gen.  John  P.  Van  Ness,  a 
young,  well-born,  jovial  New  Yorker,  was  a frequent  visitor.  Of  an 
ancient  Dutch  family  prominent  in  politics  and  society,  a congress- 
man of  some  brilliancy,  with  a very  handsome  face  and  agreeable 
deportment,  ever  full  of  song  and  story,  he  soon  succeeded  in  win- 
ning Marcia’s  affection  and  her  father’s  sanction,  and  they  were  mar- 
ried. Van  Ness  became  a resident  of  Washington,  living  at  first 
with  his  bride  in  the  old  cottage,  and  afterward  in  a costly  mansion 
erected  on  the  Burns  estate.  He  became  mayor  of  the  city,  and  was 
eminent  in  business  and  social  affairs.  Gilbert  Stuart  painted  his 
portrait,  and  it  was  said  of  him  that  he  was  “well  fed,  well  bred,  and 
well  read.”  When  David  Burns  died  he  left  his  daughter  the  sole 
owner  of  a great  estate,  yearly  rising  in  value..  On  his  death-bed 
he  said  to  her,  “Marcia,  you  have  been  a good  daughter  ; you’ll  now 
be  the  richest  girl  in  America.” 

The  Van  Ness  mansion  was  constructed  by  the  celebrated  La- 
trobe,  one  of  the  architects  of  the  Capitol,  and  he  expended  many 
thousands  of  dollars  in  trying  to  make  it  the  finest  private  residence 
in  the  country.  The  grounds  were  enclosed  with  a brick  wall,  trees 
and  flowers  planted,  and  fountains  and  statuary  added  adornment. 
Close  to  the  great  house,  in  the  same  enclosure,  stood  the  old  cottage 
of  David  Burns,  and  Mrs.  Van  Ness  would  never  permit  her  father’s 
humble  home  to  be  taken  down.  For  a number  of  years  the  Van  Ness 
mansion  was  the  resort  of  the  distinguished  people  of  Washington, 
and  presidents  and  eminent  statesmen  were  entertained  within  its 
walls.  The  last  acre  of  the  Burns  property  passed  out  of  the  pos- 
session of  the  heirs  fifteen  years  ago,  and  now  all  that  remain  to  tell 
the  story  of  the  Burns  and  Van  Ness  families  are  a great  monumental 
tomb  at  Oak  Hill  Cemetery,  and  the  two  houses  by  the  river  — father’s 
and  daughter’s  — decaying,  neglected  ruins.  The  tomb  was  erected 
by  Van  Ness  at  a cost  of  over  $30,000,  and  is  constructed  in  imita- 
tion of  the  temple  of  Vesta.  The  legend  is,  that  on  each  anniversary 
of  the  death  of  Van  Ness  his  favorite  “troop  of  six  white  horses” 
make  a ghostly  midnight  gallop  around  the  old  mansion,  and  that 
supernatural  sounds  are  heard  within  its  deserted  halls. 

The  third  largest  land-holder  was  Notley  Young,  who  held  nearly 
all  the  land  in  the  centre  of  the  city  and  on  the  river  front  between 
Seventh  and  Eleventh  streets.  Carroll  owned  the  land  to  the  east 
and  Burns  to  the  west  of  him.  He,  too,  acquired  wealth  from  sales 
and  leases  of  his  property,  and  erected  a substantial  residence  on 


34 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


G Street  south,  overlooking  the  Potomac.  The  house  was  taken 
down  thirty  years  ago  to  give  room  for  the  extension  of  the  street. 
Of  Samuel  Davidson,  the  fourth  largest  proprietor,  scarcely  anything 
is  known. 

When  the  time  approached  for  the  first  public  sale  of  lots  by  the 
commissioners,  a difficulty  arose  between  them  and  Major  L’Enfant. 
After  the  demolition  of  Carroll’s  house  by  L’Enfant,  he  was  not  in 
good  favor,  and  as  he  refused  to  allow  his  maps  of  Washington  to  be 
published  as  a guide  to  the  purchasers  of  lots,  he  was  dismissed  from 
the  service  of  the  government.  L’Enfant  claimed  that,  if  his  maps 
were  published,  speculators  would  know  all  about  his  plan,  and 
would  build  unsightly  edifices  on  the  finest  streets.  He  continued  to 
live  in  the  city,  and  in  his  old  age  became  a claimant  for  compen- 
sation for  his  services  as  the  original  designer  of  Washington  — 
constantly  haunting  the  committee-rooms  of  Congress,  a poor  but 
rather  courtly,  feeble  old  man,  attired  in  a long  blue  coat  closely  but- 
toned high  on  his  breast.  His  claim  was  never  considered,  and  it 
was  quite  the  fashion  in  those  days  to  laugh  and  sneer  at  what  was 
called  “ L’Enfant’s  extravagant  plan.”  He  died  in  1825,  and  was 
buried  by  charitable  hands  on  the  Digges  farm,  a short  distance  from 
the  city.  No  stone  marks  his  grave.  L’Enfant’s  design  has  been 
fully  vindicated  by  time,  and  to-day  the  beautiful  capital  city  owes 
much  of  its  beauty  and  fascination  to  the  broad  streets,  the  great 
squares,  the  parks,  the  wide,  straight  avenues,  the  location  of  the 
public  buildings,  for  which  he  contended  with  the  sublime  energy  of 
a liberal,  far-sighted  man,  in  an  age  of  restricted  views  and  small 
things. 

The  first  public  sale  of  lots  was  held  by  the  commissioners  at 
Georgetown,  Oct.  17,  1791J  and  was  mainly  attended  by  speculators 
from  the  large  cities,  who  were  eager  to  obtain  what  they  considered 
the  best  lots,  in  the  belief  that  Washington  was  to  become  the  great 
city  of  the  country.  At  that  time  tliere  were  less  than  60,000  people 
in  New  York  ; and  predictions  were  freely  made  that  in  ten  }'ears 
after  Congress  begun  its  sessions  in  Washington,  the  national  city 
would  have  a population  of  at  least  150,000.  Even  a rumor,  indus- 
triously circulated  at  the  sale  by  enemies  of  the  new  capital,  that 
Congress  never  would  remove  from  Philadelphia,  made  no  impres- 
sion on  the  confident  purchasers  of  the  land.  The-  commissioners 
executed  a number  of  contracts  for  the  sale  of  lots  in  parcels  on  easy 
terms,  on  condition  that  the  buyers  should  erect  “ brick  houses,  two 


TRANSFER  OF  THE  GOVERNMENT. 


35 


H AND  SIXTEENTH  STREETS,  SHOWING  ST.  JOHN’S  CHURCH. 


stories  high,”  on  the  property  within  a certain  time.  These  contracts, 
entered  into  with  enthusiasm,  were  mostly  repudiated  afterward,  and 
the  brick  houses  were  not  built.  Many  lots  were  sold,  and  at  good 
prices,  but  prior  to  the  removal  of  the  government  to  the  city  the 
actual  residents  were  few,  and  the  “new  national  settlement”  was 
very  insignificant. 

The  formal  transfer  of  the  government  from  Philadelphia  to  Wash- 
ington took  place  in  October,  1800.  That  it  was  indeed  the  day  of 
small  things,  is  evident  when  we  read  that  “ a single  ‘ packet’  sloop 
brought  all  the  office  furniture  of  the  departments,  besides  seven 
large  boxes  and  five  small  ones,  containing  tlie  ‘ archives  ’ of  the 
government.”  The  officials  numbered  fifty-four  persons,  including 
President  Adams,  the  secretaries,  and  the  various  clerks.  They 
came  to  the  city  by  different  conveyances,  and  as  they  had  left 
pleasant,  comfortable  quarters  in  Philadelphia,  the  crudeness  and 
discomfort  of  Washington  produced  a feeling  of  disgust.  Mrs. 
Adams  spoke  of  Washington  as  “this  wilderness  city”;  and  Secre- 
tary Wolcott  in  a letter  to  his  wife  said,  “There  are  but  few  houses 
in  any  place,  and  most  of  them  are  small,  miserable  huts,  which  pre- 


36 


PrCTURESC^UE  WASHINGTON. 


sent  an  awful  contrast  to  the  public  buildings.  The  people  are  poor, 
and,  as  far  as  I can  judge,  live  like  fishes,  by  eating  each  other.” 
The  best  description  extant  of  the  city,  as  it  appeared  at  the  time 
the  government  took  possession,  is  found  in  a letter  written  by  Hon. 
John  Cotton  Smith,  then  a member  of  Congress  from  Connecticut. 
He  says  : “ Our  approach  to  the  city  was  accompanied  with  sensa- 
tions not  easily  described.  One  wing  of  the  Capitol  only  had  been 
erected,  which,  with  the  President’s  house,  a mile  distant  from  it, 
both  constructed  with  white  sandstone,  were  shining  objects  in  dismal 
contrast  with  the  scene  around  them.  Instead  of  recognizing  the 
avenues  and  streets  portrayed  on  the  plan  of  the  city,  not  one  was 
visible,  unless  we  except  a road,  with  two  buildings  on  each  side  of 
it,  called  the  New  Jersey  Avenue.  The  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  lead- 
ing, as  laid  down  on  paper,  from  the  Capitol  to  the  Presidential  man- 
sion, was  nearly  the  whole  distance  a deep  morass  covered  with 
elder  bushes,  which  were  cut  through  to  the  President’s  house;  and 
near  Georgetown  a block  of  houses  had  been  erected  which  bore 
the  name  of  the  ‘six  buildings.’  There  were  also  two  other  blocks 
consisting  of  two  or  three  dwelling-houses  in  different  directions,  and 
now  and  then  an  insulated  wooden  habitation  ; the  intervening  spaces, 
and,  indeed,  the  surface  of  the  city  generally,  being  covered  witli 
scrub  oak  bushes  on  the  higher  grounds,  and  on  the  marshy  soil 
either  trees  or  some  sort  of  shrubbery.  The  desolate  aspect  of  the 
place  was  not  a little  augmented  by  a number  of  unfinished  edifices 
at  Greenleaf’s  Point,  and  on  an  eminence  a short  distance  from  it, 
commenced  by  an  individual  whose  name  they  bore,  but  the  state  of 
whose  funds  compelled  him  to  abandon  them.  There  appeared  to 
be  but  two  really  comfortable  habitations  in  all  respects,  within  the 
bounds  of  the  city,  one  of  which  belonged  to  Dudley  Carroll  and  the 
other  to  Notley  Young.  The  roads  in  every  direction  were  muddy 
and  unimproved.  A sidewalk  was  attempted  in  one  instance  by  a 
covering  formed  of  the  chips  hewed  for  the  Capitol.  It  extended 
but  a little  way  and  was  of  little  value  ; for  in  dry  weatlier  the  sharp 
fragments  cut  our  shoes,  and  in  wet  weather  covered  them  with  white 
mortar.  In  short,  it  was  a new  settlement.” 

Such  was  the  capital  city  in  which  President  John  Adams,  Secre- 
tary of  State  John  Marshall,  Secretary  of  the  Treasmy  Oliver  Wol- 
cott, Jr.,  Secretary  of  War  Samuel  Dexter,  Secretary  of  the  Navy 
Benjamin  Stoddart,  and  the  other  officials  of  the  government  took  up 
their  abode  in  the  fall  of  1800,  twenty-four  years  after  the  Declaration 


OPPOSITION  TO  THE  CAPITAL 


37 


of  Independence.  Congress  began  its  session  a few  weeks  later,  and 
many  and  loud  were  the  complaints  of  the  new  capital  uttered  by  'all 
the  assembled  statesmen. 

Newspapers  in  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  New  England,  and 
satirists  everywhere,  cracked  many  amusing  jokes  at  the  expense 
of  the  infant  city.  The  Capitol  was  called  “the  palace  in  the  wil- 
derness,” and  Pennsylvania  Avenue  “the  great  Serbonian  Bog.” 
Georgetown  was  declared  “a  city  of  houses  without  streets  ; Wash- 
ington, a city  of  streets  without  houses.”  Only  one  favorable  thing 
seems  to  have  been  said,  and  that  was,  “ Washington  is  the  happiest 
region  of  flowers,  and  a garden  here  might  he  made  to  yield  some- 
thing for  the  basket  of  Flora  for  nearly  three-quarters  of  the  year.” 


ford’s  olu  theatkk,  in  which  president  Lincoln  was  shot. 
{Navi  the  Army  Metikal  Mtisnim.) 


38 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Thomas  Moore,  just  coming  into  prominence  as  a poet,  visited  the 
city  in  1804,  and  was  hospitably  entertained.  He  afterward  used 
his  splendid  talent  to  compose  this  satire  of  Washington  : 

“ In  fancy  now  beneath  the  twilight  gloom, 

Come,  let  me  lead  thee  o’er  this  modern  Rome, 

Where  tribunes  rule,  where  dusky  Davi  bow, 

And  what  was  Goose  Creek  is  Tiber  now. 

This  fam’d  metropolis,  where  fancy  sees 
Squares  in  morasses,  obelisks  in  trees; 

Which  traveling  fools  and  gazetteers  adorn 
With  shrines  unbuilt,  and  heroes  yet  unborn.” 

The  Abbe  Correa  de  Serra,  the  witty  Minister  from  Portugal,  bestowed 
upon  Washington  the  famous  title  of  “the  city  of  magnificent  dis- 
tances,” referring  to  the  great  spaces  between  the  scattered  houses. 
There  was  considerable  talk  of  removing  the  capital,  and  a motion 
to  that  effect  in  Congress  was  lost  by  only  two  votes.  A clever 
Scotch  artist  made  a good  deal  of  fun  by  drawing  a caricature  repre- 
senting the  congressman  who  had  made  the  motion  of  removal,  with 
the  Capitol  strapped  on  his  back,  all  ready  to  start  as  soon  as  he  should 
know  w’hich  way  it  was  to  go.  But  some  wanted  it  to  go  north,  othei'S 
west,  and  others  south. 

When  we  consider  the  jealousy  and  opposition  displayed  toward 
the  city,  it  is  small  wonder  that  it  required  the  fostering  hand  of 
several  kindly  administrations  before  it  appeared  likely  that  Wash- 
ington would  remain  the  permanent  seat  of  the  government.  During 
the  administrations  of  Adams,  Jefferson,  and  Madison,  the  city  im- 
proved considerably.  Jefferson  secured  money  from  Congress  for 
the  public  buildings,  planted  poplar  trees  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue, 
and  did  what  he  could  to  make  that  “ Appian  Way  of  the  Republic” 
something  better  than  a “ slough  of  despond.”  He  applied  his  artistic 
skill  and  taste  to  the  work  of  beautifying  the  capital.  Population 
increased  at  the  rate  of  about  eight  hundred  a year ; and  when,  after 
the  invasion  by  the  British  in  1814,  the  vexed  question  of  removing 
the  capital  was  settled  by  Congress  appropriating  liberal  sums  to  re- 
store the  public  buildings  damaged  during  the  invasion,  the  city  had 
nothing  to  hinder  its  steady  growth. 

The  invasion  of  Washington  by  the  British  troops  under  General 
Ross,  Aug.  24,  1814,  was  a severe  blow  to  the  weak  and  slowly 
growing  city.  It  had  been  apprehended  for  some  weeks  that  the  city 
would  be  attacked,  and  President  Madison  had  taken  various  pre- 


THE  BRITISH  INVASION. 


39 


A SCENE  IN  THE  COLORED  qUARTER. 

ventive  measures,  which,  however,  proved  futile.  The  British  fleet, 
under  command  of  Admiral  Cockburn,  sailed  up  Chesapeake  Bay,  and 
4,500  men  were  landed  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Patuxent  River  on  the 
2ist  of  August,  with  orders  to  march  on  Washington.  The  resi- 
dents of  the  city  were  warned  of  the  approach  of  the  British,  and 
many  of  them  hastily  left  their  homes  and  found  refuge  in  Virginia. 
The  invaders  marched  across  Maryland  to  Bladensburg,  five  miles 
from  the  capital,  without  hinderance ; but  at  this  place  their  advance 
was  stopped  by  a body  of  raw,  militia,  organized  from  residents  of 
Maryland  and  the  District,  under  command  of  General  Winder,  and 
a few  hundred  seamen  with  field-pieces  under  Capt.  Joshua  Barney, 
the  celebrated  privateersman.  The  American  troops  numbered  about 
seven  thousand,  but  they  were  so  badly  handled  that  almost  at  the 
first  fire  from  the  British  the  militia  broke  in  disorder  and  could  not 
be  rallied  again.  Barney’s  sailors  stood  their  ground  and  fought 
desperately  for  nearly  three  hours,  but  at  last  were  compelled,  from 
sheer  lack  of  numbers,  to  abandon  their  position  on  the  Bladensburg 
turnpike,  and  fall  back  to  Georgetown  Heights.  President  Madison 
and  other  prominent  officials  of  the  government  had  sought  safety  at 
Montgomery  Court  House,  in  Mar}dand. 

The  way  to  Washington  now  being  open,  the  British  continued 
their  march,  and  on  the  evening  of  August  24,  they  halted  in  front 
of  the  unfinished  Capitol.  Orders  were  given  to  burn  all  the  public 
edifices,  and  in  a short  time  the  Capitol,  the  White  House,  and  the 
Executive  buildings  were  in  flames.  The  troops  dispersed  throughout 
the  city,  burning  and  destroying  a large  amount  of  private  as  well  as 
public  property.  They  visited  the  arsenal  on  Greenleaf’s  Point  and 


40 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


attempted  to  destroy  several  large  cannon  left  by  the  garrison  in 
the  haste  of  their  departure,  by  discharging  one  against  the  others. 
When  the  piece  was  fired,  some  of  the  wadding  fell  into  a well  in 
which  a large  quantity  of  powder  was  secreted,  and  a tremendous 
explosion  ensued,  killing  a number  of  the  British.  The  records  of 
the  War,  Treasury,  and  Navy  Departments  were  nearly  all  burned, 
and  the  records  of  the  State  Department  were  only  saved  by  the 
energy  of  several  clerks,  who  packed  them  into  bags  and  transported 
them  to  a secure  place  in  the  country. 

While  the  public  buildings  were  burning  a severe  storm  began, 
and  the  drenching  rain  fortunately  extinguished  the  fires  at  the  Cap- 
itol and  White  House,  and  saved  them  from  total  destruction.  The 
enemy  left  the  city  late  that  night,  fearing  an  attack  under  cover  of 
the  darkness,  and  in  a few  days  the  British  fleet,  which  had  come  as 
far  as  Alexandria,  sailed  down  the  Potomac.  The  amount  of  dam- 
age done  by  the  invasion  was  estimated  at  $1,000,000.  About  sev- 
enty-five Americans  were  killed  and  wounded,  and  the  British  suf- 
fered a loss  of  several  hundred  men. 

At  this  period  nearly  all  the  field  and  domestic  labor  in  and  around 
Washington  was  performed  by  slaves.  The  rich  planters  employed 
hundreds  of  negroes  to  cultivate  their  fertile  acres,  and  the  relations 
between  the  slaves  and  their  masters  were  very  different  from  what 
they  were  in  the  regions  farther  south.  The  slaves  were  usually 
treated  with  kindness,  well  clothed  and  fed,  and  were  apparently  as 
happy  and  contented  as  human  beings  could  be  in  bondage.  They 
were  very  civil  and  well  behaved,  and  took  great  pride  in  ornament- 
ing their  little  cabins,  and  many  of  them  had  very  neat  and  com- 
fortable homes.  They  were  allowed,  on  many  plantations,  good  pay 
for  extra  labor,  and  often  saved  money  enough  by  industry  to  pur- 
chase their  freedom.  The  culture  of  tobacco  made  many  of  the 
planters  very  wealthy,  some  of  them  raising  one  hundred  hogsheads 
yearly  of  the  “ Indian  weed  that  from  the  devil  doth  proceed,”  as  the 
quaint  old  poem  has  it.  The  tobacco  was  largely  shipped  to  Europe. 
It  was  brought  to  the  place  of  shipment  in  this  way  : A hole  was  bored 
in  the  heads  of  the  hogshead,  and  an  axle  placed  in  it  from  end  to 
end.  A shaft  was  attached  to  the  axle  like  the  shaft  ol  a cart,  and 
horses  and  mules  hitched  to  it.  The  tobacco  was  then  drawn  along 
the  streets,  up  and  down  the  hills,  rolling  and  bumping  over  the  stones. 

An  ancient  register  has  the  following  estimate  of  the  yearly  ex- 
penses of  a slave  : “ Ilis  price  about  $500,  which  at  6 per  cent.,  the 


FAMOUS  STATUES. 

I . The  Bartholdi  Fountain  in  the  Botanical  Garden.  4.  Marble  Group  on  the  Porttco  of  the  CapIto^ 

2 Statue  of  General  Scott  at  the  Soldiers'  Home.  5.  Statue  of  General  Greene. 

3.  Mills’  Statue  of  General  Washington.  6.  Mills'  Statue  of  General  Jackson. 


42 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


lawful  interest,  is  $30 ; for  risk  or  accident,  $30  ; for  a peck  of  Indian 
meal  per  week  or  13  bushels  per  year  at  50  cents,  $6.50  ; two  pounds 
of  salt  meat  per  week,  $7*50  5 ^ barrel  of  fish  per  annum,  $4  ; fowls, 
vegetables  and  milk  per  annum,  $5  ; for  clothing,  $15  — total  for  the 
year,  $98  ; or  daily  expense  of  27  cents.”  The  slaves  assumed  the 
names  of  their  masters,  and  many  of  these  old  family  names  are  con- 
tinued to-day  among  the  negro  population  of  the  city.  In  April,  1862, 
slavery  was  abolished  in  the  District  of  Columbia. 

It  is  interesting  to  learn  the  rates  of  free  labor  in  those  days.  A 
shoemaker  who  could  make  one  good  pair  of  shoes  daily  was  paid 
$1.50,  and  in  the  other  trades  wages  varied  from  75  cents  to  $1.25  a 
day.  Laborers  obtained  50  cents  a day.  A seamstress  received 
$4.50  a month  and  board;  female  servants,  from  $2.00  to  $4.00  a 
month,  with  the  exception  of  cooks,  who  were  paid  from  $15  to  $20. 
Coachmen  who  could  handle  two  and  four  horses  expertly,  demanded 
$10  a month  and  board.  Food  was  cheap,  land  easy  to  obtain,  and 
houses  could  be  built  for  little  money  of  brick  made  from  the  finest 
clay,  abundantly  found  in  the  city.  Gray  and  blue  granite,  the  brec- 
cia marble,  or  “ pudding  stone,”  as  it  was  commonly  called,  and  sand- 
stone were  also  to  be  had  at  comparatively  little  cost  for  public  build- 
ings. The  so-called  “luxuries  of  life”  were  not  very  plenty,  with 
the  exception  of  “ ice  and  pineapples.”  Ice  could  be  readily  obtained 
in  summer  for  fifty  cents  a bushel,  and  pineapples  from  the  West  In- 
dies were  sold  for  twenty-five  cents  apiece. 

An  English  writer  in  1816  gave  the  following  quaint  description  of 
the  state  of  female  society  in  Washington  : “ The  women  have  been 
accused  of  sacrificing  too  much  to  the  empire  of  fashion,  but  as  we  have 
not  been  able  to  verify  the  truth  of  this  charge,  it  would  be  dangerous 
to  decide  on  so  delicate  a subject.  They  are  certainly  superior  women, 
generally  highly  gifted  in  mental  as  they  are  adorned  with  personal 
endowments.  They  have  hitherto  withstood  the  lamentable  ravages 
which  art  and  luxury  have  in  the  great  cities  produced  upon  their 
sex.  There  is  an  evil,  however,  which  is  deeply  lamented.  It  is 
natural  to  love  those  who  are  made  to  love  ; and  no  sooner  do  the 
young  ladies  of  Washington  arrive  at  the  nubile  state  than  they  give 
their  hand  to  some  wooing  stranger,  or  member  of  Congress,  who 
carries  them  off  in  triumph  to  his  distant  home.  The  young  citizens 
who  have  been  daily  contemplating  the  regular  advances  of  these 
shoots  into  perfection,  disappointed  in  their  ardent  intentions,  sigh  and 
exclaim  (not  without  reason)  against  the  corruption  of  the  times. 


PECULIAR  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 


43 


against  family  interests  and  an  unnatural  and  disheartening  prefer- 
ence to  foreigners.  Washington  thus  resembles  a nursery,  whose  fine 
plants  are  annually  transported  to  a foreign  and  less  congenial  soil.” 

The  same  author  says:  “In  the  Territory  of  Columbia  women 
have  no  reason  to  complain  of  the  degradation  to  which  they  are  ex- 
posed by  the  tyrant,  man.  They  go  where  they  please,  both  before 
and  after  marriage,  and  have  no  need  to  have  recourse  to  dissimula- 
tion and  cunning  for  their  own  repose  and  that  of  their  husbands. 
Any  particular  attention  to  a lady  is  readily  construed  into  an  inten- 
tion of  marriage.  At  dinner  and  tea  parties  the  ladies  sit  together, 
and  seldom  mix  with  the  gentlemen,  whose  conversation  naturally 
turns  upon  political  subjects.  Gentlemen  wear  their  hats  in  a car- 
riage with  a lady,  as  in  England.  In  almost  all  houses  toddy  is  of- 
fered to  guests  a few  minutes  before  dinner.  In  summer,  invitations 
to  tea-parties  are  made  verbally,  by  a servant,  the  same  day  the  party 
is  given.  In  winter  the  invitation  is  more  ceremonious.  The  parties 
at  the  house  of  the  President  of  the  United  States  unite  simplicity  with 
the  greatest  refinement  of  manner.  The  inhabitants  are  social  and 
hospitable,  and  respectable  strangers,  after  the  slightest  introduction, 
are  invited  to  dinner,  tea,  balls,  and  evening  parties.  Tea-parties 
have  become  very  expensive,  as  not  only  tea,  but  coffee,  negus,  cakes, 
sweetmeats,  iced  creams,  wines  and  liquors  are  often  presented  ; and, 
in  a sultry  summer  evening,  are  found  too  palatable  to  be  refused.  In 
winter  there  is  a succession  of  family  balls,  where  all  this  species  ol 
luxury  is  exhibited.” 

This  intelligent  Englishman,  in  speaking  of  some  of  the  peculiar 
customs  prevailing  in  Washington  at  the  time  of  his  visit  in  i8i6, 
says  : “ Both  sexes,  whether  on  horseback  or  on  foot,  wear  an  um- 
brella in  all  seasons  : in  summer,  to  keep  ofl'  the  sunbeams ; in  win- 
ter, as  a shelter  from  the  rain  and  snow ; in  spring  and  autumn,  to 
intercept  the  dews  of  the  evening.  Persons  of  all  ranks  canter  their 
horses,  which  movement  fatigues  the  animal,  and  has  an  ungraceful 
appearance.  The  barber  arrives  on  horseback  to  perform  the  opera- 
tion of  shaving,  and  here,  as  in  Europe,  he  is  the  organ  of  all  news 
and  scandal.  Boarders  in  boarding-houses,  or  in  taverns,  sometimes 
throw  off  the  coat  during  the  heat  of  summer;  and  in  winter,  the 
shoes,  for  the  purpose  of  warming  the  feet  at  the  fire  — customs 
which  the  climate  only  can  excuse.” 

During  the  administration  of  Monroe  extensive  improvements 
were  made  in  all  parts  of  the  city,  and  large  sums  of  money  expended 


44 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


for  public  works.  Several  fine  residences  were  erected  bv  high  offi- 
cials of  the  government  and  wealthy  citizens.  The  sales  of  gov- 
ernment lots  realized  nearly  $500,000.  Public  spirit  began  to  be 
manifested.  In  a statistical  record  bearing  date  of  1821  is  this  entry  : 
“ Eighty-eight  buildings  were  commenced  up  to  June  ; a nevvbridge 
built,  the  Center  Market  enlarged,  much  progress  made  in  the  City 
Hall,  an  addition  made  to  the  Infirmary,  the  new  theatre  finished  and 
the  old  one  rebuilt  for  assembly  rooms ; Unitarian  Church  erected 
and  a Presbyterian  Church  completed  ; and  a fountain  of  water  opened 
that  yields  sixty  gallons  a minute.”  In  1822  the  city  contained  nearly 
fifteen  thousand  people,  and  taxes  were  assessed  upon  property  valued 
at  $6,668,726.  There  were  2,229  dwellings,  numerous  churches, 
hotels,  and  stores,  and  several  large  public  buildings. 

In  the  fall  of  1822  a race  between  two  celebrated  Virginia  horses, 
“Sir  Charles”  and  “Eclipse,”  was  the  leading  topic  of  conversation 
in  Washington  for  weeks,  and  ten  thousand  people  assembled  at  the 
trotting  park  to  witness  the  contest.  President  Monroe,  and  the  lead- 
ing  government  officials,  were  among  the  spectators.  It  is  said  that 
more  than  a million  dollars  were  wagered.  Planters  staked  their 
slaves,  and  in  one  case  eight  hundred  negroes  changed  owners  after 
the  race.  People  of  high  and  of  low  degree  were  intensely  excited, 
and  a great  amount  of  money  was  lost  by  men  “ who  were  unable  to 
pay  their  honest  debts  to  mechanics,  grocers,  and  even  washer- 
women.” “Eclipse”  easily  distanced  “ Sir  Charles,”  and  its  owner 
received  the  stake  of  $5,000,  and  in  addition  made  a considerable 
fortune  from  his  wagers. 

Another  odd  scrap  of  history  is  worthy  of  mention.  In  March, 
1823,  a great  excitement  was  created  in  the  city  by  the  abscondingof 
the  manager  of  the  “ Grand  National  Lottery,”  after  refusing  to  pay 
the  principal  prize  of  $100,000,  and  several  smaller  ones.  The  city 
corporation,  under  whose  auspices  the  lottery  was  carried  on,  claimed 
not  to  be  responsible  for  the  default,  and  those  who  held  the  tickets 
for  the  prizes  had  to  go  without  their  money.  An  article  in  the  AU- 
tional  Intelligencer  about  the  affair  was  headed  in  large  letters  : “So 
We  Go  ! ” 

During  the  administration  of  John  Quincy  Adams,  from  1825  to 
1829,  Washington  had  a population  of  nearly  twenty  thousand,  but  it 
was  a slow-going,  uninteresting  city,  with  very  few  signs  of  promise. 
Its  social  life,  however,  was  very  agreeable.  Society  at  that  time 
was  said  to  have  “all  the  hues  of  many  colored  life  from  the  highest 


GROWTH  OF  THE  CITY 


45 


THE  HOUSE  IN  WHICH  PRESIDENT  LINCOLN  DIED. 


polish  of  polite  France  to  the  rude  dignity  of  untutored  nature.  Par- 
ties were  numerous  in  the  winter  months,  and  were  well  attended  by 
all  who  were  or  wished  to  be  thought  fashionable.”  The  popular  hotel 
was  the  “Indian  Qiieen,”  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  and  its  great 
swinging  sign,  with  a highly-colored  picture  of  Pocahontas,  was  a 
conspicuous  object.  The  hotel  was  noted  for  its  good  living,  and 


46 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


many  members  of  Congress  resided  in  it.  A large  part  of  the  city 
was  occupied  by  market  gardens  and  brick  kilns,  plentifully  inter- 
spersed with  ponds  and  marshes.  There  were  no  public  schools ; 
what  were  known  as  “ Gadsby’s  Row”  and  the  “ Seven  Buildings” 
were  the  “ architectural  palaces,”  and  stray  cows  and  pigs  the  stat- 
uary that  adorned  the  squares  and  parks.  In  the  sandstone  Capitol 
with  a wooden  dome,  great  statesmen  were  invoking  the  Goddess  of 
Liberty  ; and  at  the  slave-pen  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  unfeeling  auc- 
tioneers were  selling  men,  women,  and  children  to  the  highest  bidder. 

Even  in  1840,  M.  de  Bacourt,  the  French  Minister  wrote  ; “ As  for 
Washington,  it  is  neither  a city,  nor  a village,  nor  the  country : it  is 
a building-}mrd  placed  in  a desolate  spot,  wherein  living  is  unbear- 
able.” About  this  time  there  was  a general  renewal  of  the  public 
buildings,  and  after  1850  the  city  began  to  wear  a somewhat  brighter, 
more  enterprising  appearance.  Population  increased  about  two  thou- 
sand a year  ; many  substantial  business  blocks  and  private  residences 
were  constructed  ; more  energy  was  displayed  by  the  residents  ; and, 
although  it  was  still  a “ city  of  magnificent  distances,”  many  of  the 
unsightly  spaces  were  filled,  and  the  former  barren,  desolate  aspect 
had  changed  to  something  better.  When  the  Civil  War  began,  in 
1861,  Washington  had  62,000  people,  and  was  described  as  “ a big, 
sprawling  city,  magnificent  in  some  parts,  dilapidated  and  dirty  in 
others.” 

During  the  years  of  the  Rebellion  the  city  was  an  extensive  mili- 
tary encampment.  Its  streets  resounded  with  the  march  of  troops, 
and  all  its  available  buildings  were  used  for  military  purposes.  Every- 
where “ war’s  stern  alarums  ” were  heard.  Over  Long  Bridge  thou- 
sands of  brave  men  went  to  battle  on  the  soil  of  Virginia.  Formid- 
able lines  of  defenses  enclosed  the  capital,  and  apprehensions  ot  an 
attack  were  constantly  felt.  In  July,  1864,  General  Early  made  a 
demonstration  on  Washington,  hoping  thereby  to  induce  General 
Grant  to  raise  the  siege  of  Richmond.  He  crossed  the  Potomac  with 
12,000  men,  defeated  General  Wallace  at  Rockville,  sixteen  miles 
from  the  city,  and  marched  on  Fort  Stevens,  on  the  Seventh  Street 
road.  The  guns  of  the  fort  checked  his  advance  until  the  Sixth 
Corps  from  Petersburg  arrived,  when  he  was  driven  back  across  the 
Potomac. 

On  tlie  evening  of  the  loth  of  April,  1865,  Washington  was  bril- 
liantly illuminated  in  celebration  of  the  close  of  the  war,  and  there 
was  great  rejoicing  among  its  loyal  people,  hour  nights  after,  the 


THE  CIVIL  WAR. 


47 


city  heard  with  pallid  cheek  and  bated  breath  that  President  Lincoln 
had  been  stricken  down  at  Ford’s  Theatre,  on  Tenth  Street,  by  the 
bullet  of  a cowardly  assassin.  The  rejoicings  at  the  return  of  peace 
were  changed  to  bitter  lamentations.  The  colored  people  were  almost 
wild  with  grief  at  the  death  of  the  great  Emancipator. 

President  Lincoln  was  removed  from  the  theatre  to  the  Peterson 
house,  nearly  opposite,  where  he  died  early  on  the  morning  of  April 
15.  The  theatre  was  purchased  by  the  government  in  1866,  and 
is  at  present  used  for  the  Army  Medical  Museum  and  the  record 
and  pension  division  of  the  Surgeon  General’s  Department.  The  in- 
terior was  entirely  reconstructed,  and  no  trace  now  remains  of  the 
scene  of  the  assassination.  On  the  Peterson  house  a marble  tablet 
has  been  placed,  bearing  the  record  of  Lincoln’s  death.  The  small 
bed-room  in  which  the  President  died  suggests  little  now  of  the  sad 
scenes  of  that  night.  The  original  furniture  has  been  removed,  and 
the  pretty,  flaxen-haired  children  of  the  present  owner  of  the  house 
use  the  apartment  for  a play-room.  It  is  proposed  that  the  govern- 
ment purchase  the  house  and  make  it  a museum  for  the  exhibition 
of  articles  belonging  to  President  Lincoln. 

In  May,  1865,  the  troops  under  the  command  of  Generals  Grant 
and  Sherman  marched  in  grand  review  through  the  streets  of  Wash- 
ington, prior  to  their  disbanding.  Two  days  were  taken  for  the  re- 
view, which  was  witnessed  by  many  thousands  of  people  from  all 
parts  of  the  North  and  the  West.  During  this  final  march  of  “ the 
largest  army  of  volunteers  ever  organized  in  the  history  of  the  world,” 
the  city  was  full  of  patriotic  enthusiasm.  As  the  various  generals 
with  their  divisions,  all  wearing  the  actual  accoutrements  of  the  war 
— the  boys  in  blue  stained  with  the  soil  of  Virginia  and  of  Georgia, 
and  bearing  proudly  the  tattered  banners  which  had  waved  on  many 
hard-fought  battle-fields  — passed  up  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  they  were 
the  recipients  of  long-continued  and  enthusiastic  cheers,  and  were 
literally  covered  with  garlands. 

For  a few  years  after  the  war  Washington  continued  to  be  a very 
unattractive  city.  At  this  time  an  English  tourist  wrote  of  it : “ The 
whole  place  looks  run  up  in  a night,  like  the  cardboard  cities  Potem- 
kin erected  to  gratify  the  eyes  of  his  imperial  mistress  on  her  tour 
through  Russia ; and  it  is  impossible  to  remove  the  impression  that, 
when  Congress  is  over,  the  place  is  taken  down  and  packed  up  till 
wanted  again.” 


THE  CENTER  MARKET — GROUP  OF  HUCKSTERS, 


CHAPTER  III 


GROWTH  OF  AVASHIXGTON  SINCE  1S70— THE  IMPROVEMENTS  BY  THE  BOARD  OF 
public  WORKS  — a wonderful  transformation  caused  by  THE  EXPEN- 
DITURE OF  TWENTY  MILLIONS  — CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  QUEENLY  POTO- 
MAC CITY— ITS  GOVERNMENT,  POPULATION,  AND  BUSINESS  — THE  SPACIOUS 
STREETS  AND  AVENUES,  FINE  PARKS  AND  SQUARES  — STATUES  TO  WAR 
HEROES— LONG  BRIDGE  — THE  WASHINGTON  MONUMENT. 

IN  the  year  1870  Washington  was  suddenly  aroused  from  its  leth- 
argy. After  seventy  years  of  existence  it  had  not  realized  the 
expectations  of  its  friends,  or  greatly  lessened  the  opposition  of 
its  enemies.  It  was  in  a critical  condition.  Its  use  by  the  Fed- 
eral soldiers  in  the  Civil  War  had  made  thousands  of  intelligent  North- 
ern men  familiar  with  its  discomforts,  its  shiftlessness,  and  its  entire 
lack  of  the  desirable  qualities  that  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
American  Nation  should  possess.  There  was  nothing  hopeful  or 
promising  about  it.  Young  cities  in  the  West  had  grown  important 
and  prosperous  by  their  own  exertions ; old  cities  in  the  East  had 
advanced  steadily  with  the  enterprise  of  the  age ; but  Washington, 
with  the  strong  aid  of  the  government,  and  many  years  of  life,  had 
failed  to  be  a credit,  much  less  an  object  of  pride,  to  the  American 
people. 

The  project  to  remove  the  national  capital  to  St.  Louis,  vigor- 
ously started  by  a Western  man  of  rare  energy  and  persistency,  gave 
Washington  at  this  time  a great  fright.  The  proposition  of  removal 
received  the  hearty  indorsement  of  the  West,  and  a large  delegation 
in  Congress  was  pledged  to  its  advocacy.  Prominent  newspapers 
in  New  York  and  elsewhere  favored  it,  and  the  scheme  began  to  grow 
rapidly  in  public  estimation.  St.  Louis  was  ready  to  expend  millions 
to  obtain  the  splendid  prize,  and  the  other  large  Western  cities  came 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


SO 

forward  with  offers  of  their  influence  and  money,  enthusiastic  over 
the  plan  to  have  the  capital  city  located  in  “the  great  golden  harvest 
land,”  as  the  West  is  glowingly  described. 

At  this  juncture  a strong  man  came  into  leadership,  and  turned 
aside  the  current  that  was  flowing  perilously  against  the  city.  He 
thoroughly  believed  in  Washington,  and  was  determined  to  aggrandize 
it,  and  at  the  same  time  that  he  improved  and  built  up  the  city  he  , 
proposed  to  enrich  himself.  This  man  was  Alexander  R.  Shepherd, 
well  known  afterward  to  the  country  by  his  sobriquet  of  “ Boss  Shep- 
herd.” General  Grant  was  President,  and  his  friendship  for  Shep- 
herd was  marked  and  enduring.  Congress  finally  disposed  of  the 
question  of  removing  the  capital  by  appropriating  $500,000  to  begin 
the  erection  of  the  grand  State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  which  has 
cost  $12,000,000;  and  the  city,  through  the  efforts  of  Shepherd, 
began  at  once  to  assume  a better  appearance.  Shepherd  at  that 
time  was  thirty-eight  years  old.  He  had  realized  a fortune  of  $100,- 
000  from  plumbing  contracts,  and  was  known  as  the  leading  plumber 
of  the  District.  He  had  a large  political  friendship,  was  an  aider- 
man  of  the  old  city  government,  and  was  noted  for  his  immense 
energy  and  invincible  determination. 

In  describing  Shepherd’s  career  a well-informed  writer  says  : “ He 
and  his  friends  conceived  the  idea  of  making  a great  and  beautiful 
city  out  of  the  slovenly  and  comfortless  Southern  town  which  the  cap- 
ital of  the  country  then  was.  They  first  abolished  the  old  municipal 
government,  and  ended  once  for  all  the  conservative  regime  of  the 
past.  In  its  place  they  put  a territorial  government  with  a legisla- 
ture, which  by  means  of  the  universal  suffrage  in  the  District,  then 
recently  established,  they  were  easily  able  to  control.  The  territo- 
rial government  was  merely  a cover  for  the  Board  of  Public  Works, 
and  of  this  board  Shepherd  was  the  head.  Eighty  miles  of  the  three 
hundred  miles  of  half-made  streets  and  avenues  were  improved,  and 
nearly  all  the  thickly-settled  streets  of  the  cit}^  were  paved  with  wood 
or  concrete.  A general  and  very  costly  system  of  sewers  was  begun. 
The  grades  of  many  of  the  most  populous  streets  were  radically 
changed.  Scores  of  new  parks  were  graded,  fenced,  and  set  with 
trees  and  fountains.  The  old  Tiber  Canal  was  filled  up,  and  the 
greatest  nuisance  of  Washington  was  thereby  shut  out  of  sight. 
From  $15,000,000  to  $20,000,000  were  swallowed  up  in  this  vast  un- 
dertaking. Congress  appropriated  at  least  $5,000,000  in  cash,  and 
$2,000,000  more  in  cash  were  raised  on  improvement  bonds,  which 


IMPROVING  THE  CITY 


51 


were  put  on  the  market  at  a very  large  per  cent.  The  remainder  of 
this  great  indebtedness  took  the  shape  of  sewer  bonds,  floating  loans, 
and  other  securities.  Nearly  all  of  this  money  was  disbursed  by 
Shepherd.  It  was  he  who  determined  to  whom  all  these  millions 
should  go.  He  had  his  circle  of  friends  among  the  contractors,  and 
it  was  charged  that  he  shared  in  the  profits ; but  of  this  charge  there 
was  no  evidence,  and  probably  it  was  not  true.  Shepherd  must  be 
credited  with  an  ambition  which  was  much  more  than  a merely  self- 
ish one.  It  cannot  be  charged  against  him  that  he  diverted  the  funds 
of  the  District  to  improve  his  own  property  as  distinguished  from  the 
property  of  others.  The  street  improvements  were  almost  universal, 
and  his  building  operations  extended  to  every  part  of  the  city.  When 
the  Board  of  Public  Works  began  operations  and  property  rose  in 
value  all  over  the  city,  his  real  estate  and  building  enterprises  (dating' 
back  to  1865)  were  largely  augmented.” 

During  ten  years  Shepherd  erected  over  one  thousand  buildings, 
and  was  the  first  man  to  build  blocks  of  dwellings  in  Washington, 
after  the  plan  common  in  Northern  cities.  His  building  operations 
exceeded  those  of  any  other  man  in  the  United  States,  and  comprised 
total  values  of  $10,000,000 ; and  in  land  he  handled  other  millions. 
He  secured  large  amounts  of  money  from  Northern  capitalists,  car- 
ried heavy  financial  burdens,  and  exhibited  wonderful  capacity  in  ob- 


ENTRANCE  TO  LONG  BRIDGE. 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS 


52 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


taining  the  credit  necessary  for  his  innumerable  enterprises.  In  1873 
he  became  governor  of  the  District,  and  ruled  its  affairs  with  an  im- 
perious hand.  He  was,  in  truth,  the  “Boss”  of  Washington,  and 
forced  the  public  improvements  against  all  opposition,  determined  that 
the  city  should  no  longer  be  a reproach  to  its  people,  and  a disgrace 
to  the  Nation.  He  was  the  latter-day  L’Enfant,  with  more  brains 
and  more  power.  In  1876  he  became  financially  embarrassed,  and 
his  audacious,  extraordinary  business  and  political  career  came  to  an 
end. 

The  queenly  Potomac  City,  secure  now  from  fear  of  the  removal 
of  the  capital,  owes  its  grand  renovation  largely  to  this  man  ; and  to- 
day in  the  city  he  beautified  and  raised  to  a prosperous,  distinguished 
position,  thousands  of  hearts  go  out  in  gratitude  and  well  wishes 
toward  the  exile  from  home,  as  he  labors  in  far-off  Mexico  to  repair 
his  shattered  fortune  — grateful  that  he  compelled  them,  even  by  ar- 
bitrary acts  and  extravagant  expenditures,  to  make  Washington  the 
fit  place  for  the  seat  of  government. 

In  ten  years  from  the  time  the  Boaij^d  of  Public  Works  began 
its  improvements,  the  city  was  transformed.  The  streets  were  cov- 
ered with  an  almost  noiseless,  smooth  pavement.  Fifty  thousand 
shade-trees  had  been  planted  ; the  old  rows  of  wooden,  barrack-like 
houses  had  given  place  to  dwellings  of  graceful,  ornate  architecture; 
blocks  of  fine  business  buildings  lined  Pennsylvania  Avenue  and  the 
other  prominent  thoroughfares ; blossoming  gardens  and  luxuriant 
parks  were  to  be  seen  on  all  sides ; the  squares  and  circles  were 
adorned  with  the  statues  of  heroes,  and  bordered  with  costly  and 
palatial  mansions  ; splendid  school-houses,  churches,  market  build- 
ings, newspaper  offices  had  been  erected.  The  water-works  and 
sewer  system  were  unequaled  in  the  country.  Washington  had 
risen  fresh  and  beautiful,  like  the  Uranian  Venus,  from  stagnation 
and  decay. 

The  population  of  the  city  in  1880  was  147,293,  and  with  George- 
town added,  159,885.  It  is  believed  that  since  the  last  government 
census  was  taken  there  has  been  a large  yearly  increase  in  popula- 
tion, and  that  the  city  now  contains  quite  240,000  permanent  resi- 
dents. There  is  also  a floating  population  in  the  winter  months  esti- 
mated at  50,000,  which  is  composed  in  part  of  congressmen  and 
employes  of  Congress  and  their  families,  and  people  of  wealth  from 
various  portions  of  the  United  States,  who  spend  the  winter  in  the 
city.  There  is  a constant  growth  in  enterprise  and  public  spirit,  and 
year  by  year  the  capital  increases  in  prosperity  and  importance. 


ELEMENTS  OF  PROSPERITY. 


53 


THE  DISTRICT  COURT  HOUSE. 


The  government  business  in  Washington  necessitates  the  dis- 
bursement of  a vast  amount  of  money  yearly  to  the  residents  of  the 
city.  All  the  great  departments  of  the  United  States  government 
are  located  there,  and  the  number  of  persons  who  perform  service  in 
them  is  estimated  at  20,000.  The  Treasury  Department  has  on  its 
pay-rolls  3,504  persons  who  do  work  in  Washington;  the  Interior 
Department,  2,949;  ^^e  War  Department,  1,686;  the  Post-Office 
Department,  544,  and  the  many  other  departments,  divisions,  sub- 
divisions, and  offices  of  the  government  employ  from  100  to  2,500 
persons  each  in  transacting  the  immense  business  of  the  states  and 
territories  included  in  the  American  Republic.  Many  millions  of  dol- 
lars are  annually  paid  as  compensation  to  the  government  employes 
in  Washington,  and,  in  good  times  or  bad,  these  enormous  disburse- 
ments are  made  with  the  regularity  of  clock-work.  The  government 
is  generally  a liberal  paymaster,  as  it  is  obliged  to  employ  the  best 
talent  in  all  of  its  difficult  and  complicated  business.  Year  by  year, 
as  the  country  increases  in  population  and  wealth,  the  affairs  of  the 


54 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


government  greatly  increase,  and  additions  to  the  employes  in  Wash- 
ington have  constantly  to  be  made  to  keep  up  the  work  of  the  de- 
partments. In  some  of  the  important  departments,  even  with  the 
large  force  employed  — with  every  room  in  a huge  building  crowded 
with  clerks  attending  to  their  duties  with  an  energy  and  faithfulness 
that  the  people  of  the  country  scarce  give  government  employes 
credit  for  — the  business  is  often  many  months  behind. 

The  wholesale  and  retail  trade  of  the  city  is  steady  and  flourish- 
ing. The  vast  sums  disbursed  by  the  government  flow  easily  and 
regularly  into  the  currents  of  trade,  and  in  addition,  Washington  has 
within  a few  years  developed  a very  lucrative  traffic  with  the  rich 
and  populous  country  to  the  south  and  west  of  it,  whose  people  here- 
tofore were  accustomed  to  go  to  Baltimore  for  goods.  The  ample 
salaries  of  government  employes,  the  majority  of  whom  receive 
larger  compensation  than  the  same  class  of  workers  in  any  other 
city,  enable  them  to  live  well,  to  purchase  many  articles  of  taste 
and  luxury,  to  enjoy  public  entertainments,  and  to  gratify  their  de- 
sires in  literature  and  art.  The  rates  of  government  pay  tend  also 
to  increase,  by  comparison,  the  wages  of  those  engaged  in  private 
business.  The  popular  fallacy  that  when  the  session  of  Congress  is 
over  each  year,  the  city  becomes  dull  and  depressed,  is  entirely 
groundless.  Congress  now  merely  adds  so  much  to  the  continuous 
busy  life  of  Washington  — accelerates  trade  and  society  in  a certain 
measure  while  it  remains ; but  when  Congress  is  not  in  session  the 
streets  are  lively,  trade  flourishes,  amusements  are  plentiful  and 
well  supported,  and  social  events  are  brilliant  and  numerous.  The 
old  notion  that  because  Washintxton  is  the  seat  of  fjovernment  com- 
mercial  interests  are  out  of  the  question,  is  rapidly  fading  away,  as 
the  city  has  advanced  a long  way  in  ten  years  toward  that  import- 
ance to  which  it  is  entitled  as  the  centre  of  a large  and  flourishing 
territory,  yearly  increasing  in  population. 

The  city  is  also  fortunate  in  the  strong  attraction  it  has  for  stran- 
gers. Every  day  hundreds  of  tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  world 
visit  Washington,  to  enjoy  its  sights  and  objects  of  interest,  which 
are  exceedingly  numerous  and  of  great  fame ; and  every  day  hun- 
dreds of  people  from  all  sections  of  the  United  States  arrive  to  trans- 
act business  with  the  various  departments  of  the  government.  Thus 
the  city  is  constantly  full  of  visitors  who  spend  their  money  freely, 
and  consequently  add  in  a large  degree  to  the  prosperity  of  its  mer- 
chants. 


ELEMENTS  OF  PROSPERITY. 


55 


The  extensive  libraries  and  scientific  collections,  open  to  every- 
body, attract  to  the  city  many  students  and  those  engaged  in  special 
researches.  The  Congressional  Library,  with  500,000  miscellaneous 
books  ; the  complete  Medical  and  Surgical  Library,  with  50,000  vol- 
umes pertaining  to  medicine  and  surgery  ; the  great  Law  Library  of 
the  government ; the  valuable  library  of  the  Patent-Office,  for  the  use 
of  inventors  ; the  libraries  of  the  State,  War,  and  Navy  Departments, 
rich  in  government  records  and  historical  works  ; the  vast  collections 
of  natural  history  in  the  Smithsonian  Institution  and  the  National 
Museum, — all  present  to  scholars  and  professional  men  and  women 
superior  facilities  for  the  prosecution  of  their  studies,  and  they  are 
largely  used  by  persons  from  every  part  of  the  United  States. 

From  the  census  report  devoted  to  the  statistics  of  manufactures  it 
appears  that  in  the  District  of  Columbia  there  are  at  the  present  time 
971  manufacturing  establishments  employing  7,145  persons,  and 
using  an  aggregate  capital  of  $5,552,526.  Of  the  employes,  5,495 
are  males  above  sixteen  years,  1,389  females  above  fifteen  years, 
and  261  youths  and  children,  who  receive  annually  in  wages  $3,924,- 
612.  The  value  of  material  annually  consumed  is  $5,365,400,  and 
the  value  of  the  annual  product  is  $11,882,316.  The  manufacturing 
establishments  are  mainly  devoted  to  the  production  of  various  small 
wares.  There  are,  however,  iron  works,  brick,  marble  and  granite 
companies,  lithographic,  book-binding,  bank-note,  and  other  estab- 
lishments of  considerable  importance. 

The  real  and  personal  property  in  the  District  of  Columbia  is 
valued  at  $254,189,536,  and  is  thus  classed  : Taxable  real  property, 

$112,802,101;  belonging  to  United  States,  $120,589,684  ; belonging 
to  District  governrrwent, $2,258,872  ; churches,  etc.,  exempt,  $6,604,- 
634;  taxable  personal  property,  $11,934,245.  The  yearly  expenses 
of  the  District  government  are  about  $4,800,000,  of  which  the  United 
States  pays  one-half.  Three  commissioners,  appointed  by  the  Presi- 
dent, consisting  of  two  resident  civilians  and  one  army  officer  of  the 
Corps  of  Engineers,  have  charge  under  Congress  of  the  District 
affairs.  They  appoint  the  various  officials,  and  serve  three  years. 
Each  commissioner  receives  $5,000  per  year.  The  District  had  for- 
merly a delegate  in  Congress,  but  at  the  present  time  has  no  voice  in 
legislation.  It  is  governed  principally  by  the  old  laws  of  Maryland. 

The  Constitution  of  the  United  States  (Art.  L,  Sec.  8,)  gives  Con- 
gress the  authority  “ to  exercise  exclusive  legislation  in  all  cases 


5^ 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


whatsoever  over  such  district  (not  exceeding  ten  miles  square)  as- 
may  by  cession  of  particular  states  and  the  acceptance  of  Congress, 
become  the  seat  of  the  government  of  the  United  States.”  The  legal 
jurisdiction  of  the  District  of  Columbia  was  assumed  by  Congress 
Feb.  27,  1801,  and  on  May  3,  1802,  the  city  of  Washington  was  in- 
corporated. At  first  a mayor  was  appointed  yearly  by  the  President, 
and  a city  council  was  elected  by  the  people.  After  some  years  the 
mayor  was  chosen  by  the  people.  In  1871  the  charter  of  the  city 
was  repealed  by  Congress,  and  a territorial  government  established, 
with  a governor  and  legislature.  The  present  permanent  Com- 
missioner’s government  was  established  in  1878.  From  1874  1878 

there  was  a provisional  government  of  three  commissioners. 

Washington,  in  its  general  plan,  has  been  called  a combination  of 
ancient  Babylon  and  modern  Philadelphia,  with  much  of  the  grace 
and  beauty  of  Versailles.  L’Enfanfs  design  has  been  closely  fol- 
lowed, and  the  result  is  a broad,  spacious  city,  pleasing  in  all  its  parts. 
Within  its  boundary  are  6,1  ii  acres,  and  of  this  amount  3,095  acres 
are  used  for  public  purposes.  There  are  more  than  one  hundred 
streets,  and  twenty-one  avenues,  the  latter  named  after  the  states. 
The  avenues  extend  from  one  end  of  the  city  to  the  other,  and  those 
that  lead  to  principal  points  are  from  130  to  160  feet  wide,  and  have 
sidewalks  from  20  to  38  feet  wide.  The  streets  and  avenues  in 
general  are  of  greater  width  than  those  of  any  other  city  in  the 
world.  They  are  mostly  paved  with  concrete  or  asphalt,  and  are  very 
smooth  and  well  kept.  Carriage-riding  through  the  centre  of  the 
city  and  on  the  principal  streets  of  residences  is  delightful,  because 
the  smooth,  elastic  pavements  prevent  jolting.  The  heavy  traffic  is 
confined  as  much  as  possible  to  certain  streets  which  have  stone 
pavements,  which  prevents  the  concreted  streets  from  being  rapidly 
worn  out. 

The  streets  are  laid  at  right  angles  from  the  Capitol,  which  is 
located  in  nearly  the  centre  of  the  city  ; the  avenues  cross  the  streets 
diagonally.  North  Capitol,  South  Capitol,  and  East  Capitol  streets, 
and  the  Mall,  which  extends  from  the  Capitol  grounds  west  to  Fif- 
teenth Street  and  takes  the  place  of  West  Capitol  Street,  divide 
Washington  into  four  cardinal  sections.  The  streets  extending  north 
and  south  of  the  Capitol  are  designated  by  numerals,  and  are  known 
as  First  Street  east.  First  Street  west,  etc.  Those  extending  east 
and  west  are  lettered,  and  are  known  as  A Street  north,  A Street 


THE  PRINCIPAL  AVENUES, 


57’ 


THE  BALTIMORE  AND  POTOMAC  RAILROAD  DEPOT. 

south,  etc.  The  aggregate  length  of  streets  is  279  miles ; of  ave- 
nues, 65  miles. 

The  wide  avenues,  with  their  concrete  pavement,  the  principal  ones 
extending  in  an  almost  straight  line  for  several  miles,  are  among  the 
prominent  attractions  of  Washington.  On  pleasant  days  they  are 
full  of  gay  equipages,  and  present  a very  brilliant  appearance.  They 
command  extensive  prospects,  and  on  many  of  them  the  view  is  un- 
broken as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

Pennsylvania  Avenue  is  one  of  the  longest  in  the  city,  and  the 
most  prominent.  It  is  four  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  but  its  con- 
tinuity is  twice  broken,  once  by  the  White  House  and  Treasury,  and 
again  by  the  Capitol.  It  begins  at  Rock  Creek,  which  separates 
Washington  from  Georgetown,  passes  the  Washington  Circle,  the 
State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  the  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art,  the 
White  House,  Lafayette  Park,  and  the  Treasury.  From  Fifteenth 
Street  to  the  Capitol  it  extends  a mile  through  the  finest  business- 


58 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


section.  East  of  the  Capitol  it  continues  to  the  banks  of  the  Ana- 
costia  River.  From  Rock  Creek  to  the  Treasury,  at  Fifteenth  Street, 
the  avenue  is  130  feet  wide  ; from  Fifteenth  Street  to  its  terminus  at 
the  Anacostia  it  is  160  feet.  Many  of  the  leading  business  establish- 
ments, several  prominent  hotds,  the  Center  Market,  and  the  news- 
paper offices  are  located  on  it,  and  the  theatres  are  adjacent  to  it.  It 
is  the  fashionable  thoroughfare,  and  during  most  hours  of  the  day  it 
is  bright  and  lively  with  thousands  of  pedestrians  and  carriages.  A 
number  of  parks  are  situated  on  “ the  avenue,”  and  its  broad  walks 
are  lined  with  trees. 

The  longest  unbroken  avenue  is  Massachusetts  Avenue,  which  is 
four  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  and  160  feet  wide  throughout.  On 
its  course  through  the  northwest  quarter  of  the  city  are  many  elegant 
residences,  and  several  squares  and  circles.  It  is  finely  concreted, 
and  is  shaded  by  a variety  of  trees  with  expansive  foliage.  New 
York,  Connecticut,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  and  Rhode  Island 
avenues  also  traverse  the  northwest  quarter,  and  are  130  feet  wide, 
with  the  exception  of  New  Hampshire  Avenue,  which  is  120  feet. 
They  are  of  great  length,  and  admirably  laid  out.  Maryland  Ave- 
nue begins  at  Long  Bridge  and  continues  to  the  Baltimore  turnpike ; 
New  Jersey  and  Delaware  avenues  intersect  each  other  at  the  Capitol. 
They  are  each  160  feet  wide. 

In  addition  to  the  fashionable  avenues  there  are  numerous  streets 
extensively  built  up  with  costly  dwellings  of  brick  and  stone,  and 
comparing  favorably  in  elegance  with  the  avenues.  Seventh,  Ninth, 
and  F streets  are  thriving  business  sections,  filled  with  fine  buildings. 
On  both  sides  of  Seventh  Street,  above  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  are 
continuous  blocks  of  business  establishments  for  over  a mile,  and 
there  is  an  enormous  daily  traffic  in  this  quarter.  During  the  past 
ten  years  many  thousands  of  shade-trees,  comprising  twenty  differ- 
ent sorts,  selected  for  their  handsome  foliage  and  symmetry,  have 
been  planted  on  the  streets  and  avenues,  and  their  growth  will  give 
Washington  in  a few  years  a distinction  as  a sylvan  city. 

The  “ parking  system”  is  in  common  use.  This  system  was  in- 
troduced to  lessen  the  width  of  the  sidewalks,  many  of  which  were 
much  too  wide.  By  it  the  owner  of  a house  is  allowed  to  enclose, 
but  not  to  build  upon,  all  the  space  in  front  of  his  house  except  twenty 
or  thirty  feet  of  the  sidewalk.  On  the  majority  of  the  streets  the 
houses  stand  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  back  from  the  curbstone,  and  b}'’ 
the  parking  system  each  house  has  about  twenty  feet  of  garden  in  front 


THE  SQUARES  AND  CIRCLES. 


59 


of  it.  As  the  system  is  almost  universally  taken  advantage  of,  the 
result  is,  that  in  the  vernal  season  Washington  is  dotted  by  innumer- 
able gardens  filled  with  lovely  southern  flowers. 

When  the  city  was  first  laid  out.  President  Washington  selected 
certain  districts  for  public  purposes.  These  government  reservations 
are  used  for  the  buildings  of  the  United  States,  and  for  the  squares 
and  circles.  The  small  spaces  at  the  intersection  of  streets  are 
termed  triangular  reservations,  and  most  of  them  are  planted  with 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  ornamented  with  fountains. 

The  squares  and  circles  are  numerous  and  exceedingly  attractive.  ’ 
Directly  opposite  the  White  House,  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  is  La- 
fayette Square,  a tract  of  seven  acres  laid  out  as  a park,  with  choice 
varieties  of  shade-trees  and  flowering  plants.  Here  is  Clark  Mills’ 
famous  equestrian  statue  of  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson,  which  was  erected 
in  1853  at  a cost  of  $50,000.  It  was  constructed  of  cannon  captured 
by  the  gallant  soldier  in  his  various  battles.  It  stands  on  a white 
marble  pedestal,  around  which  are  field-pieces  and  piles  of  cannon- 
balls. General  Jackson  is  represented  in  complete  military  uniform, 
mounted  on  a rearing  horse,  which  is  poised  high  in  the  air  without 
the  aid  of  rods. 

The  space  at  the  intersection  of  Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island 
avenues,  Sixteenth  and  N streets,  is  known  as  Scott  Square.  It  is 
about  one  acre  in  extent,  and  in  its  centre  is  an  equestrian  statue  of 
Lieut. -Gen.  Winfield  Scott,  which  was  modeled  by  H.  K.  Brown,  and 
cast  of  cannon  taken  during  the  Mexican  campaigns.  The  figure  is 
ten  feet  high,  and  the  total  height  of  the  statue  is  twenty-nine  feet. 
Five  enormous  blocks  of  granite  compose  the  pedestal.  The  statue 
was  ordered  by  Congress,  and  was  erected  in  1874.  was 

about  $45,000.  General  Scott  appears  in  the  full  uniform  of  his  rank, 
seated  on  his  favorite  war-horse. 

Farragut  Square  is  on  Connecticut  Avenue,  between  I,  K,  and 
Seventeenth  streets.  It  covers  a little  more  than  an  acre,  and  con- 
tains a small  park  in  which  is  a colossal  bronze  statue  of  Admiral 
David  Glasgow  Farragut,  which  was  modeled  by  Mrs.  Vinnie  Ream 
Hoxie,  and  cast  at  the  Washington  Navy  Yard  of  metal  taken  from 
Farragut’s  flag-ship,  the  “ Hartford.”  Congress  appropriated  $20,000 
for  the  purpose.  The  flgure  is  ten  feet  high,  and  the  granite  pedestal 
on  which  it  stands  is  twenty  feet,  and  has  an  ornamental  base  holding 
several  mortars.  Farragut  is  portrayed  in  naval  uniform,  standing 


6o 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


with  one  foot  resting  on  a block,  telescope  in  hand,  watching  the 
enemy’s  movements.  The  statue  was  unveiled  on  April  25,  1881. 

On  Vermont  Avenue  is  McPherson  Square,  which  is  adorned  with 
a pretty  park,  in  which  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Maj.-Gen.  James  B. 
McPherson,  modeled  by  James  T.  Robisso.  It  was  erected  at  a cost 
of  $23,500,  by  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Tennessee,  from  cannon 
allotted  by  Congress.  The  pedestal  is  composed  of  five  massive 
blocks  of  granite  appropriately  decorated,  and  cost  $25,000.  Con- 
gress appropriated  this  amount.  The  figure  is  fourteen  feet  high,  and 
the  horse  twelve  feet  long.  General  McPherson  is  represented  sur- 
veying the  field  of  battle. 

On  the  south  side  of  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  between  Eighth  and 
Ninth  streets,  is  a bronze  statue  of  Brig. -Gen.  John  A.  Rawlins,  Sec- 
retary of  War  in  1869,  which  was  ordered  by  Congress,  and  cost 
$10,000.  It  is  in  a small  park  containing  choice  plants,  evergreens, 
and  trees.  The  figure  was  modeled  by  J.  Bailey,  is  eight  feet  high, 
and  weighs  1,400  pounds.  It  stands  on  a granite  pedestal,  twelve 
feet  in  height.  General  Rawlins  is  represented  in  uniform  as  chief- 
of-stafF  to  General  Grant. 

A mile  directly  east  of  the  Capitol  is  Lincoln  Square,  formed  by 
the  intersection  of  East  Capitol,  Eleventh,  Twelfth,  and  Thirteenth 
streets  and  Massachusetts,  Kentucky,  North  Carolina,  and  Tennes- 
see avenues.  It  is  a space  of  six  acres,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
bronze  group  called  “ Emancipation,”  which  represents  Abraham 
Lincoln  standing  at  a small  pedestal,  holding  the  Proclamation  of 
Emancipation  in  one  hand,  while  the  other  is  extended  in  a protect- 
ing manner  over  the  crouching  form  of  a negro  with  his  fetters  broken 
— a slave  no  longer.  It  is  a notable  work,  and  clearly  expressive  of 
the  momentous  event  in  American  history  which  it  commemorates. 
The  group  was  designed  by  Thomas  Ball,  and  cast  in  Munich.  It  is 
twelve  feet  in  height,  and  stands  upon  a granite  base  which  rises  ten 
feet.  The  statue  weighs  3,000  pounds,  and  cost  $17,000.  When  it 
was  unveiled,  on  April  14,  1876,  there  were  imposing  ceremonies,  and 
the  Hon.  Frederick  Douglass  was  tlie  orator  of  the  occasion.  This 
memorial  was  erected  from  contributions  received  from  the  freed  peo- 
ple of  the  South,  the  initial  contribution,  a five-dollar  greenback,  com- 
ing from  an  aged  colored  woman  of  Virginia. 

Northeast  of  the  Capitol,  at  the  intersection  of  Massachusetts  and 
Maryland  avenues,  is  Greene  Square.  Here  is  an  equestrian  statue  of 
Maj.-Gen.  Nathanael  Greene,  of  the  Continental  Army.  It  stands  in 


THE  SQUAliES  AND  CIRCLES. 


6i 


GARFIELD  MEMORIAL  TABLET  IN  THE  BALTIMORE  & POTOMAC  R.  R.  DEPOT. 

the  centre  cf  a plat  of  three  and  one-half  acres,  and  is  thirty-three 
and  one-half  feet  high.  It  was  modeled  by  H.  K.  Brown,  and 
erected  in  1877  by  authority  of  Congress,  and  its  cost,  including  the 
granite  pedestal,  was  $50,000.  General  Greene  is  represented  as  if 
issuing  orders  on  the  battle-field. 

Between  Thirteenth  and  Fourteenth  streets  west,  and  I and  K 
streets  north,  is  Franklin  Square  and  Park,  comprising  four  acres 
planted  with  luxuriant  trees  and  shrubs.  The  grounds  are  surrounded 
by  elegant  dwellings,  and  are  charming  in  their  arrangement  and 
ornamentation. 

The  largest  square  in  the  city  is  Judiciary  Square,  which  contains 
nineteen  acres.  It  is  located  between  Louisiana  Avenue  and  G Street 
north,  and  Fourth  and  Fifth  streets  west.  It  contains  the  new  Pen- 
sion Building,  and  the  District  Court  House.  In  front  of  the  Court 


62 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


House  is  a plain  marble  column,  crowned  with  a full-length  statue  of 
Lincoln  by  Lot  Flannery. 

Washington  Circle  is  at  the  intersection  of  Pennsylvania  and  New 
Hampshire  avenues.  In  this  circle,  within  a spacious  park,  is  Clark 
Mills’  equestrian  statue  of  Gen.  George  Washington,  which  was 
unveiled  in  i860.  It  was  ordered  by  Congress,  and  cost  $50,000. 
Washington  is  clad  in  continental  uniform,  and  is  represented  as  at 
the  battle  of  Princeton. 

Thomas  Circle  is  formed  by  the  intersection  of  Massachusetts  and 
Vermont  avenues  and  Fourteenth  Street.  Here,  on  the  19th  of  No- 
vember, 1879,  unveiled  the  equestrian  statue  of  Maj.-Gen.  George 
H.  Thomas,  which  was  erected  by  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the 
Cumberland  at  a cost  of  $50,000.  The  statue  is  the  work  of  J.  Q. 
A.  Ward,  and  was  cast  from  new  material.  It  is  sixteen  feet  high, 
and  the  pedestal  is  also  sixteen  feet.  Congress  appropriated  $25,000 
for  the  pedestal,  which  is  constructed  of  Virginia  granite,  handsomely 
designed,  and  bears  bronze  tablets  representing  the  badge  of  the  So- 
ciety of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland.  Four  bronze  lamp-posts, 
costing  $4,000,  surround  the  base.  General  Thomas  is  represented 
in  field  dress,  observing  the  tide  of  battle. 

Dupont  Circle  is  at  the  intersection  of  Massachusetts,  Connecticut, 
and  New  Hampshire  avenues  and  P and  Nineteenth  streets.  A statue 
of  Admiral  Dupont  is  to  be  erected  here. 

Iowa  Circle  is  at  the  intersection  of  Vermont  and  Rhode  Island 
avenues  and  P and  Thirteenth  streets. 

Washington  is  divided  into  four  distinct  sections  or  quarters. 
The  Northwest  quarter  has  the  largest  population,  and  is  the  most 
fashionable.  In  it  are  the  President’s  House,  the  Executive  Depart- 
ments of  the  government,  the  Foreign  Legation  buildings,  the  princi- 
pal hotels,  the  theatres,  the  largest  business  establishments,  and  the 
majority  of  the  finest  residences. 

The  Southwest  quarter  is  extensive  and  populous,  but  it  is  mainly 
occupied  by  small  places  of  business  and  the  residences  of  persons  of 
moderate  means.  Some  of  the  streets  are,  however,  being  taken  up 
for  very  fine  houses,  particularly  those  in  the  vicinity  of  the  National 
Museum.  The  wharves  of  the  river  transportation  lines  are  in  this 
quarter. 

The  Northeast  quarter  is  sparsely  settled,  but  it  increases  yearly 


THE  WASHINGTON  MONUMENT. 


64 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


in  population.  On  some  of  the  streets  there  are  numerous  blocks  of 
fine  dwellings,  those  located  near  the  Capitol  being  notable  for  ele- 
gance. 

The  Southeast  quarter,  with  a portion  of  the  Northeast,  is  called 
Capitol  Hill,  as  the  Capitol  stands  on  the  western  brow  of  this  exten- 
sive plateau.  Although  not  as  fashionable  as  the  Northwest  quarter, 
it  yet  has  a numerous  population  of  people  of  large  means,  and  many 
elegant  residences,  together  with  blocks  of  plain,  neat  houses  and 
places  of  business.  Within  a few  years  it  has  developed  consider- 
ably. 

Long  Bridge  extends  from  the  southwestern  terminus  of  Mary- 
land Avenue  across  the  Potomac  River  to  the  Virginia  shore,  and  is 
a mile  in  length.  It  was  completed  in  1835  at  a cost  of  $100,000, 
and,  singular  as  it  may  seem,  only  one-third  of  the  money  appropri- 
ated by  Congress  to  build  it  was  expended.  It  is  doubtful  if  there  is 
another  case  on  record  of  a public  work  being  constructed  for  less 
than  the  original  appropriation.  President  Jackson  formally  dedi- 
cated the  bridge  in  the  spring  of  1836,  and,  after  nearly  fifty  years 
of  hard  service,  it  is  now  in  a substantial  condition.  It  is  an  unsightly 
wooden  structure ; one  side  of  it  is  used  by  the  railroads  running 
south  from  Washington,  and  toward  the  Virginia  end  is  an  extensive 
draw,  to  admit  of  the  passage  of  vessels  to  Georgetown.  Before  many 
years  it  will  doubtless  give  way  to  the  march  of  improvements,  and  a 
bridge  better  adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  capital  will  take  its  place. 
During  the  Civil  War  thousands  of  Northern  soldiers  tramped  over 
its  dusty  road,  and  a large  part  of  the  vast  quantities  of  supplies  for 
the  Federal  army  in  the  field  was  transported  over  it.  At  present  it 
is  largely  used  by  the  farmers  of  Virginia  who  bring  their  produce  to 
the  Washington  markets,  and  daily  hundreds  of  vehicles  and  several 
thousand  people  cross  the  old  structure. 

Many  years  have  passed  since  the  corner-stone  of  the  Washing- 
ton Monument  was  laid  with  imposing  ceremonies  on  an  anniversary 
of  the  Nation’s  Independence  Day.  This  grand  memorial  to  him 
who  was  called  “ the  pride  of  our  land  and  the  glory  of  our  race,” 
progressed  in  an  exceedingly  tardy  manner,  but  was  finished  in 
December,  1884,  and  dedicated  February  22,  1885,  the  one  hundred 
and  fifty-third  anniversary  of  the  birth  of  Washington.  The  cost  of 


THE  WASHINGTON  MONUMENT.  65 

the  monument  has  been  about  one  million,  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars. 

This  monument  has  been  called  “ the  world’s  greatest  cenotaph.” 
It  is  a plain  obeliscal  shaft,  rising  to  the  height  of  555  feet  from  the 
base  of  the  shaft,  and  572  feet  above  the  natural  surface  of  surround- 
ing ground.  Around  the  base  a mound  of  earth  has  been  graded, 
sloping  in  all  directions  to  meet  the  natural  surface  at  distances  of 
350  to  450  feet  from  the  shaft.  The  foundation  of  the  shaft  is  126 
feet  square  and  is  thirty-seven  feet  below  the  base  of  the  shaft.  The 
shaft,  at  the  base,  is  fifty-five  feet  square,  and  at  its  top  it  is  about  thirty 
feet  square.  The  lower  portion  is  constructed  of  blue  gneiss,  faced 
with  large  crystal  marble,  and  the  upper  portion  is  of  similar  marble, 
with  cut  granite  backing.  In  the  interior  lining  are  set  numerous 
blocks  of  stone,  presented  by  the  states  and  cities  of  the  United  States, 
by  foreign  countries,  and  by  various  societies.  They  are  properly 
inscribed,  and  are  arranged  to  be  plainly  seen  in  ascending  the  monu- 
ment. 

An  elevator,  and  also  a spiral  staircase,  is  used  for  the  ascent, 
and  the  interior  of  the  shaft  is  illuminated  by  electricity,  as  the  only 
openings,  except  the  entrance  doors,  are  small  windows  at  the  top. 

This  shaft  is  the  loftiest  artificial  structure  in  the  world.  It  rises 
many  feet  above  the  Capitol,  and  above  any  of  the  cathedral  spires 
and  monuments  in  Europe  and  the  East.  It  is  fifteen  feet  higher  than 
the  main  tower  of  the  new  city  hall  in  Philadelphia,  thirty  feet  higher 
than  the  great  cathedral  at  Cologne,  and  ninety-five  feet  higher  than 
St.  Peter’s,  at  Rome.  The  prospect  from  the  top  is  sublime  beyond 
conception.  On  the  west  the  range  of  vision  is  bounded  by  the  Alle- 
ghany Mountains,  and  on  the  south  it  extends  to  the  Chesapeake 
Bay,  and  across  it  to  the  ocean.  The  prospect  on  the  north  and 
east  comprises  the  city  of  Washington,  and  far  beyond  over  the  Dis- 
trict and  Maryland  Hills. 

The  site  of  the  monument  was  designated  by  act  of  Congress  in 
1848,  and  is  said  to  have  been  originally  chosen  by  President  Wash- 
ington. It  occupies  the  government  reservation,  bounded  by  Four- 
teenth Street  west,  and  the  Potomac  River.  All  of  this  tract  is  to 
be  included  in  the  extensive  harbor  improvements  in  progress,  and 
it  is  believed  will  eventually  be  a portion  of  a beautiful  park,  with 
drives  extending  a long  distance  on  the  river  bank. 


5 


66 


picturp:sqite  Washington. 


The  subject  of  a national  memorial  to  the  Father  of  His  Country 
was  early  discussed.  The  Continental  Congress,  in  1783,  adopted  a 
resolution  for  the  erection  of  a statue  “ in  honor  of  George  Washing- 
ton, the  illustrious  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  United  States  Army 
during  the  war  which  vindicated  and  secured  their  libert}%  sover- 
eignty and  independence  ” ; but  the  resolution  was  not  carried  into 
effect,  as  it  was  understood  that  Washington  did  not  desire  a statue 
while  he  was  living.  After  his  death  one  branch  of  Congress,  in 
1800,  passed  an  act  to  erect  to  his  memory  “ a mausoleum  of  Ameri- 
can granite  and  marble  in  a pyramidal  form,”  but  it  failed  of  passage 
in  the  other  branch.  Some  years  afterward  an  attempt  was  made  to 
erect  a national  monument  by  private  subscriptions  after  the  plan  of 
the  Timoleonton  of  Syracuse,  but  very  little  was  done  toward  carrying 
out  this  plan,  and  it  was  not  until  1833  that  the  monument  project  as- 
sumed definite  form.  In  September  of  that  year  the  citizens  of 
Washington  had  a meeting  and  formed  the  “ Washington  National 
Monument  Societ}",”  with  Chief  Justice  John  Marshall  as  president. 
An  appeal  was  made  to  the  country  for  subscriptions,  and  $230,000 
were  obtained.  The  corner-stone  of  the  monument  was  laid  on  the 
4th  of  July,  1848,  in  accordance  with  Masonic  rites,  the  Hon.  Robert 
C.  Winthrop  delivering  an  oration  on  the  life  and  character  of  Wash- 
ington. The  society  proceeded  with  the  work  of  construction  until 
1854,  when  it  was  compelled  to  suspend  operations  on  account  of  its 
inability  to  obtain  money.  The  monument  was  left  but  a little  way 
above  its  foundation  walls  until  1878,  at  which  time  the  government 
undertook  its  completion.  The  work  was  performed  by  Col.  Thos. 
Lincoln  Casey,  under  the  direction  of  the  joint  commission  created 
by  Congress,  with  the  Washington  Monument  Society  in  an  advisorv 
capacity. 

The  city  of  Washington  has  passed  beyond  the  possibility  of  de- 
cadence, and  doubtless  will  have,  before  many  years,  a population  of 
half  a million  people.  Sagacious  men  are  of  the  opinion  that  event- 
ually the  vast  and  unequaled  water-power  of  the  upper  Potomac  will 
be  utilized  for  manufacturing  purposes,  and  that  the  city  will  then 
become  the  centre  of  a great  industrial  district,  producing  goods  for 
the  southern  and  southwestern  markets.  From  a city  of  malaria  and 
large  death  rate,  it  has  become,  by  wise  sanitary  measures,  a salubri- 
ous place  of  residence,  and  its  death  rate,  despite  a large  floating  pop- 


HEALTH  OF  THE  CITY. 


67 


ulation,  is  very  low,  averaging  about  17.48  per  1,000.  Its  climate  in 
winter  is  usually  mild  and  genial,  the  spring  months  are  delightful, 
and  the  heat  in  summer  rarely  exceeds  that  in  the  cities  several  hun- 
dred miles  to  the  northward.  There  is  no  reason  to  believe  that  it 
will  not  always  remain  the  national  capital,  and  as  the  country  in- 
creases in  greatness  and  opulence,  this  city,  the  seat  of  government, 
is  likely  to  fully  share  in  the  general  prosperity. 


A FEW  MOMENTS  OF  LEISURE. 


PENNSYLVANIA  AVENUE,  FROM  TREASURY  BUILDING. 


CHAPTER  IV 


THK  CAPITOL  — ADOPTION  OF  THE  PLAN  — LAYING  OK  THE  CORNER-STONE  BY 
PRESIDENT  WASHINGTON  — THE  ARCHITECTS  — PARTI AL  DESTRUCTION  OF 
THE  EDIFICE  BY  BRITISH  TROOPS  — THE  OLD  CAPITOL  — THE  PRESENT  MA- 
JESTIC EDIFICE  — ITS  GREAT  DOME,  STATUE  OF  FREEDOM,  BRONZE  DOORS 
AND  STATUARY  — THE  EASTERN  AND  WESTERN  PARKS  — NAVAL  MONU- 
MENT—THE  BOTANICAL  GARDEN  — VIEW  FROM  THE  CAPITOL  DOME. 

The  commissioners  appointed  to  lay  out  the  capital  city  were 
directed  to  “ procure  suitable  buildings  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  Congress,  and  of  the  President,  and  for  the  public 
offices  of  the  government  of  the  United  States  ” ; and,  shortly 
after  the  city  was  surveyed,  they  entered  upon  this  portion  of  their 
duties.  On  L’Enfant’s  design  the  “Federal  House  for  Congress” 
was  designated  as  “the  Capitol,”  and  this  name,  meeting  with  the 
approval  of  President  Washington,  was  adopted.  It  had  been  ascer- 
tained that  the  hill  in  the  eastern  section  was  “ the  central  point  ’ of 
the  city,  and  therefore  it  was  decided  to  erect  the  Capitol  there,  with 
its  front  toward  the  east,  where  a spacious  level  plateau  extended  for 
two  miles.  It  was  believed  that  on  this  plateau  the  best  houses  would 
be  erected.  To  the  westward  were  swamps  and  woods,  hillocks  and 
creeks,  and  it  was  apparent  that  the  eastern  section  was  in  every  way 
better  adapted  for  the  homes  of  the  cultivated  and  wealthy  people 
who  were  expected  to  settle  in  the  national  city.  But  the  city’s  growth 
was  almost  entirely  toward  the  west ; and  to-day  the  Capitol  stands 
with  its  back  to  the  populous  and  fashionable  part  of  Washington. 
It  has  been  humorously  said  that  “ the  Capitol  is  like  the  Irishman’s 
shanty,  which  had  the  front  door  on  the  back  side.”  It  is  proposed 
to  reconstruct  the  western  facade  and  make  it  similar  to  the  eastern, 
and  doubtless  this  will  be  done  before  many  years. 


70 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


A premium  of  $500  and  a building-lot  was  oftei'ed  by  the  commis- 
sioners for  the  best  design  of  the  Capitol,  and  in  response  to  their 
advertisement  sixteen  designs  were  submitted  by  architects  in  the  prin- 
cipal cities.  These  designs  were  carefully  examined  by  Mr.  Jeffer- 
son, the  Secretary  of  State,  and  promptly  rejected  by  him,  being 
mostly  beneath  serious  consideration.  Mr.  Jefferson  had  early  ex- 
pressed a preference  for  “ the  adoption  of  some  of  the  models  of  an- 
tiquity, which  have  had  the  approbation  of  thousands  of  years.”  In 
July,  1792,  a French  architect  residing  in  New  York,  named  Stephen 
L.  Hallet,  or  Hallate,  as  it  was  sometimes  v/ritten,  sent  a sketch  of  a 
design  to  the  commissioners  which  met  with  favor,  and  he  was  invited 
to  come  to  Washington  and  examine  the  locality  chosen  for  the  Cap- 
itol, in  order  that  he  might  fully  perfect  his  design,  which,  in  many 
particulars,  was  satisfactory.  About  this  time  an  amateur  draughts- 
man, named  Dr.  William  Thornton,  an  Englishman  who  had  come  ta 
the  United  States  after  residing  for  some  ^^ears  in  the  West  Indies, 
presented  a highly  colored  and  elaborated  design  to  Washington  and 
Jefferson,  which  so  greatly  pleased  them  that  the  President  sent  a 
communication  to  the  commissioners  requesting  the  adoption  of 
Thornton’s  design  in  place  of  Hallet’s,  but  suggesting  that  they  “ do 
it  with  delicacy.”  It  was  advised,  however,  that  Hallet  be  engaged 
as  supervising  architect,  as  Thornton  had  no  practical  knowledge  of 
architecture. 

Hallet  was  informed  of  this  request,  doubtless  “ with  delicacy,” 
and  immediately  began  to  develop  and  improve  his  design.  Thorn- 
ton also  improved  his,  and  for  several  weeks  these  aspirants  for  the 
distinguished  honor  of  designing  the  Capitol  of  the  new  and  vigor- 
ous American  Nation,  worked  with  intense  rivalry  and  bitter  feeling. 
A charge  was  made  by  Hallet  that  Thornton  had  stolen  the  major 
part  of  his  design  from  his  (Hallet’s)  rough  sketches,  and  had  merely 
drawn  out  in  detail  the  plans  he  had  thus  obtained.  This  charge  was 
stoutly  denied  by  Thornton,  and  his  denial  being  satisfactory  to  the 
commissioners,  they  finally  accepted  his  design,  and  awarded  the  pre- 
mium to  him.  Although  Hallet  demurred  at  this  award,  and  was 
greatly  aggrieved  by  it,  he  was  partially  appeased  by  receiving  the 
appointment  of  supervising  architect  of  the  Capitol,  with  a salary  of 
£400  per  year,  and  began  work  on  the  edifice. 

On  the  l8th  of  September,  1793,  the  corner-stone  was  laid  in  the 
soutlieast  corner  of  what  was  to  be  the  north  wing  of  the  Capitol.  ■ 
In  an  ancient  account  of  this  event  it  Is  stated  that  “ a grand  Masonic, 


LAVING  THE  CORNER-STONE. 


71 


military  and  civic  procession  was  formed  on  the  square  in  front  of  the 
President’s  grounds,  from  whence  it  proceeded  to  the  Capitol  with 
martial  music  and  flying  colors,  attended  by  an  immense  concourse 
of  spectators.  The  ceremony  was  grand  and  imposing,  and  large 
numbers  from  various  parts  of  the  country  attended.”  On  the  corner- 
stone was  placed  a large  silver  plate,  which  was  inscribed  as  follows  : 

“This  southeast  corner-stone  of  the  Capitol  of  the  United  States 
of  iVmerica  in  the  City  of  Washington  was  laid  on  the  i8th  day  of 
September,  1793,  in  the  13th  year  of  American  Independence,  in  the 
first  year  of  the  second  term  of  the  Presidency  of  George  Washing- 
ton, whose  virtues  in  the  civil  administration  of  his  country  have  been 
as  conspicuous  and  beneficial  as  his  military  valor  and  prudence  have 
been  useful  in  establishing  her  liberties,  and  in  the  year  of  Masonry 
5793,  by  the  President  of  the  United  States  in  concert  with  the  Grand 
Lodge  of  Maryland,  several  Lodges  under  its  jurisdiction,  and  Lodge 
No.  22,  from  Alexandria,  Virginia.” 

President  Washington  delivered  an  oration,  it  is  believed,  although 
no  record  of  it  can  be  found,  and  the  Grand  Master  of  the  Maryland 
Masons  made  an  impressive  address.  After  the  ceremony  “the  as- 
semblage retired  to  an  extensive  booth,  where  they  enjoyed  a barbe- 
cue feast.” 

A few  months  after  the  corner-stone  had  been  laid,  a serious  quar- 
rel began  between  Architect  Hallet  and  Dr.  Thornton,  who  had  been 
appointed  one  of  the  commissioners.  Hallet  was  requested  to  fur- 
nish the  commissioners  with  his  various  drawings  and  designs,  but  he 
peremptorily  declined,  and,  in  consequence,  was  dismissed  from  the 
public  service.  George  Hadfield,  an  Englishman,  who  came  highly 
recommended  by  Benjamin  West,  and  also  by  James  Hoban,  the  arch- 
itect of  the  White  House,  was  appointed  in  Hallet’s  place,  and  re- 
mained until  he,  too,  had  a quarrel  with  the  commissioners,  and  was 
forced  to  give  up  the  position.  Hoban  continued  the  work,  and  fin- 
ished the  north  wins  in  1800. 

O 

In  1803  the  construction  of  the  south  wing  was  placed  in  the  hands 
of  Benjamin  II.  Latrobe,  who  had  come  from  London,  where  he  had 
thoroughly  studied  architecture  with  Cockrell,  one  of  the  leading 
architects  of  his  day.  He  arrived  in  the  United  States  in  1796,  and 
in  Norfolk,  Va.,  was  introduced  to  Judge  Bushrod  Washington,  a 
nephew  of  the  President,  who  took  him  to  Mount  Vernon  to  form  the 
acquaintance  of  Washington.  Latrobe  made  a favorable  impression 


72 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


upjn  the  President,  and  was  frequently  consulted  by  him  in  regard  to 
the  public  buildings.  When  he  was  engaged  as  the  architect  of  the 
Capitol,  the  commissioners  gave  him  full  power  to  construct  the  south 
wing,  and  also  to  remodel  the  north  wing,  which  had  been  very  poorly 
constructed,  in  accordance  with  his  own  plans.  He  finished  the  work 
in  i8ii,  and  then  connected  the  wings  by  a large  wooden  scaffolding, 
or  bridge,  which  occupied  the  place  of  the  present  Rotunda.  The 
walls  of  the  wings  were  constructed  of  sandstone,  quarried  on  an 
island  in  Acquia  Creek,  a small  stream  that  empties  into  the  Poto- 
mac River  about  forty  miles  below  Washington  ; and  the  bricks  used 
for  the  interior  work  were  made  in  kilns,  erected  on  the  Capitol 
grounds.  Congress  had  occupied  the  building  since  1800,  and  at  the 
time  the  British  troops  invaded  the  city,  on  Aug.  24,  1814,  the  new 
Capitol  looked  quite  imposing  on  its  hill-top. 

The  British  army,  commanded  jointly  by  General  Ross  and  Ad- 
miral Cockburn,  reached  Capitol  Hill  early  in  the  evening,  flushed 
and  excited  by  their  victory  at  Bladensburg.  As  General  Ross  rode 
toward  the  Capitol  his  horse  was  killed  by  a shot  fired  from  a house 
in  the  vicinity.  The  shot  was  apparently  aimed  at  the  British  general, 
and  it  so  enraged  the  troops  that,  after  setting  fire  to  the  house  con- 
taining the  sharpshooter,  they  marched  quickly  to  the  Capitol,  and 
fired  several  volleys  into  its  windows.  A regiment  then  marched  into 
the  hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  “ the  drums  and  fifes  play- 
ing ‘ The  British  Grenadiers,’”  and  the  soldiers  were  formed  around 
the  Speaker’s  chair.  Admiral  Cockburn  was  escorted  to  the  post  of 
honor,  and,  seating  himself,  derisively  called  the  excited  assemblage 
to  order.  “Shall  this  harbor  of  Yankee  Democracy  be  burned  ? 
All  for  it  say  aye  ! ” he  shouted.  There  was  a tumultuous  cry  of 
affirmation,  and  then  the  order  was  given  to  fire  the  building.  The 
pitch-pine  boards  were  torn  from  the  passage-way  between  the  wings, 
the  books  and  papers  of  the  Library  of  Congress  were  pulled  from 
their  shelves  and  scattered  over  the  floor,  valuable  paintings  in  a room 
adjoining  the  Senate  Chamber  were  cut  from  their  frames,  and  the 
torch  applied  to  the  combustible  mass.  Presently  clouds  of  smoke 
and  columns  of  fire  ascended  from  tlie  Capitol,  and  it  seemed  doomed 
to  destruction.  The  soldiers  discharged  army  rockets  through  the 
roof  of  each  wing,  and  when  the  fire  was  burning  furiously,  left  the 
building  and  marched  up  Pennsylvania  Avenue  to  fire  the  other  pub- 
lic edifices.  The  wooden  passage-way,  and  the  roofs  and  interiors  of 
the  wings  were  burned,  but  the  walls  were  saved,  as  the  flames  were 


RESTORING  THE  CAPITOL 


73 


MAIN  ENTRANCE,  CAPITOL. 


extinguished  in  time  by  a severe  rain  which  set  in  within  half  an  hour 
after  the  fire  had  begun,  and  continued  all  the  evening. 

Congress  held  its  first  session  after  the  British  invasion  in  Blodg- 
ett’s Hotel,  which  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Post-Office  building. 
The  Capitol  was  ordered  rebuilt,  and  in  December,  i8i6.  Congress 
leased  a building  which  the  citizens  of  Washington  had  erected  near 
the  eastern  grounds  of  the  Capitol,  and  held  its  sessions  in  it  for  sev- 
eral years.  This  building  has  always  been  known  as  the  “ Old  Cap- 
itol.” In  it  John  C.  Calhoun  died  on  the  31st  of  March,  1850;  and 
during  the  Civil  War  it  was  used  as  a prison  for  Confederates. 
Henry  Wirz,  the  keeper  of  Andersonville  prison,  was  hanged  in  its 
yard  on  Nov.  10,  1865.  It  is  now  standing,  and  is  used  for  business 
purposes  and  for  residences. 

At  the  time  the  Capitol  was  burned,  Latrobe,  its  real  architect, 
was  in  Pittsburg,  aiding  in  the  construction  of  a steamboat  for  Robert 
Fulton.  He  was  immediately  recalled  to  Washington,  and,  after  a 


74 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


thorough  examination,  reported  that  the  Capitol  could  be  easily  re- 
stored, as  its  foundations  and  walls  were  unimpaired.  Latrobe  was 
a man  of  infinite  resource.  He  could  speak  five  modern  languages 
fluently,  and  was  also  familiar  with  Latin,  Greek,  and  Hebrew.  He 
was  an  inventor,  and  a discoverer.  In  the  Loudon  Hills,  in  Virginia, 
he  discovered  the  beautiful  mottled  marble,  known  as  “breccia,’' 
whicb  he  used  extensively  in  the  interior  of  the  Capitol.  He  invented 
what  President  Madison  called  “ the  American  order  of  architecture,” 
using  designs  of  Indian  corn,  the  cotton  blossom,  and  tbe  tobacco-leaf 
for  columns  and  capitals  instead  of  the  acanthus.  Until  1817  he 
labored  assiduously  to  restore  and  improve  the  Capitol,  and  to  him 
the  credit  is  due  for  the  old  hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives, 
now  the  National  Statuary  Hall ; the  old  Senate  Chamber,  now  used 
by  the  Supreme  Court ; the  Law  Library  Chamber,  and  the  old  lob- 
bies. When  he  resigned,  and  Charles  Bulfinch  was  engaged  as  the 
architect,  the  understanding  was  that  the  Capitol  should  be  completed 
in  accordance  with  the  designs  he  had  made. 

Bulfinch  was  a native  of  Massachusetts.  He  had  constructed  the 
old  State  House  in  Boston,  and  had  performed  other  notable  work. 
For  ten  years  he  devoted  himself  to  the  Capitol,  following  Latrobe’s 
plan  to  a great  extent.  He  completed  what  were  then  called  the 
wings,  and  connected  them  by  the  central  Rotunda,  with  a low  dome, 
and  also  built  the  main  hall  of  the  Library  of  Congress.  In  1827 
he  reported  to  Congress  that  the  Capitol  was  finished,  and  three  }"ears 
later,  resigned  the  position  of  architect  and  retiumed  to  Boston.  The 
edifice  was  declared  “majestic,”  and  “perfect  in  all  its  adaptations.” 
It  covered  about  one  and  one-half  acres,  and  was  tliree  hundred  and 
fifty-two  feet  long,  and  seventy  feet  high  to  the  top  of  the  balustrade. 
To  the  top  of  the  dome  it  was  one  hundred  and  forty-five  feet  high. 
Its  construction  had  cost  $2,433,814. 

During  the  twenty  years  ensuing,  the  Capitol  was  considered  suf- 
ficient for  the  use  of  the  Nation.  Robert  Mills,  a Wasliin<rton  archi- 
tect,  was  placed  in  charge  of  it,  and  made  sundiy  small  improve- 
ments from  time  to  time.  In  1850  the  necessity  for  better  accommo- 
dations for  both  Houses  of  Congress,  the  number  of  members  having 
greatly  increased,  compelled  an  enlargement  of  tlie  building.  It  was 
decided  to  “extend  the  wings  by  greater  wings,  called  extensions,” 
which  were  to  be  constructed  of  marble,  and  connected  with  the 
original  Capitol  by  wide  corridors,  d’homas  Ik  Walter,  of  Philadel- 


EXTENSION  OF  THE  CAPITOL. 


75 


phia,  who  had  built  Girard  College,  was  secured  as  architect,  and  he 
retained  the  position  until  1865.  He  arranged  a plan  for  the  exten- 
sions, and  immediately  began  the  work  of  construction.  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery C.  Meigs,  the  accomplished  engineer,  was  appointed  as  the 
superintendent  and  inspector. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  1851,  the  corner-stone  of  the  south  or  House 
extension  was  laid  by  President  Fillmore,  assisted  by  the  Grand 
Lodge  of  Masons  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  the  Grand  Master  wear- 
ing the  regalia  worn  by  President  Washington  as  Master  Mason  when 
he  laid  the  corner-stone  of  the  original  edifice,  nearly  fifty-eight  years 
before.  ,An  eloquent  oration  was  delivered  by  Daniel  Webster,  Sec- 
retary of  State,  which  was  listened  to  by  a vast  assemblage.  Beneath 
the  corner-stone  this  record  was  deposited  : 

“ On  the  morning  of  the  first  day  of  the  seventy-sixth  year  of  the 
Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  in  the  city  of  Wash- 
ington, being  the  4th  day  of  July,  1851,  this  stone,  designated  as  the 
corner-stone  of  the  Extension  of  the  Capitol,  according  to  a plan  ap- 
proved by  the  President,  in  pursuance  of  an  act  of  Congress,  was 
laid  by  Millard  Fillmore,  President  of  the  United  States,  assisted  by 
the  Grand  Master  of  the  Masonic  Lodges,  in  the  presence  of  many 
members  of  Congress  ; of  officers  of  the  Executive  and  Judiciary  De- 
partments, National,  State,  and  District ; of  officers  of  the  Army  and 
Navy ; the  corporate  authorities  of  this,  and  neighboring  cities ; 
many  associations,  civil,  military,  and  Masonic  ; officers  of  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution,  and  National  Institute ; professors  of  colleges  and 
teachers  of  schools  of  the  District  of  Columbia,  with  their  students 
and  pupils ; and  a vast  concourse  of  people  from  places  near  and  re- 
mote, including  a few  surviving  gentlemen  who  witnessed  the  laying 
of  the  corner-stone  of  the  Capitol  by  President  Washington,  on  the 
18th  day  of  September,  1793.  If,  therefore,  it  shall  be  hereafter  the 
will  of  God  that  this  structure  shall  fall  from  its  base,  that  its  founda- 
tions be  upturned,  and  this  deposit  brought  to  the  eyes  of  men,  be  it 
known  that,  on  this  day,  the  Union  of  the  United  States  of  America 
stands  firm  ; that  their  Constitution  still  exists  unimpaired,  and  with 
all  its  original  usefulness  and  glory,  growing  every  day  stronger  and 
stronger  in  the  afl'ections  of  the  great  body  of  the  American  people, 
and  attracting  more  and  more  the  admiration  of  the  world.  And  all 
here  assembled,  whether  belonging  to  public  life  or  to  private  life, 
with  hearts  devoutly  thankful  to  Almighty  God  for  the  preservation 
of  the  libert}^  and  happiness  of  the  country,  unite  in  sincere  and  fer- 


76 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


vent  prayers  that  this  deposit,  and  the  walls  and  arches,  the  domes 
and  towers,  the  columns  and  entablatures,  now  to  be  erected  over  it, 
may  endure  forever ! God  save  the  United  States  of  America  ! 

Daniel  Webster, 

Secretary  of  State  of  the  United  States.” 

The  extensions  were  constructed  of  white  marble,  tinged  with  blue* 
from  quarries  at  Lee,  Mass.  ; and  the  one  hundred  massive  columns 
around  them,  each  consisting  of  a single  block  of  marble,  were  quar- 
ried in  Cockeysville,  Md. 

It  was  proposed  to  construct  a new  and  grander  dome  to  take  the 
place  of  “ the  small  wooden  thing  ” that  surmounted  the  Capitol,  and 
the  way  in  which  the  first  appropriation  of  $100,000  was  obtained  for 
the  purpose  is  described  thus  : “ Mr.  Walter  prepared  plans  for  a com- 
plete extension  of  the  Capitol  — new  wings,  new  dome,  and  anew 
marble  front  for  the  middle  or  sandstone  building,  and  as  he  knew  very 
well  that  Congress  would  never  vote  the  great  sum  required  in  the 
most  economical  way,  that  is  in  bulk,  he  first  submitted  the  wings. 
Next,  as  Congress  was  about  adjourning  at  the  end  of  a session,  and 
they  were  all  very  merry  at  a night  session  — ladies  on  the  floor,  and 
everything  lively  — the  new  dome  was  presented  splendidly  painted 
in  a picture,  and  adopted  at  once.”  The  money  first  appropriated  was 
barely  sufficient  to  remove  the  old  dome,  which  was  constructed  of 
wood,  brick,  and  stone,  with  a sheathing  of  copper.  The  new  dome 
required  nine  years  for  its  construction,  and  cost  $1,250,000. 

The  extensions  were  finished  in  November,  1867,  and  the  Capitol 
then  presented  the  stately  appearance  it  has  to-day.  Nearly  $10,- 
000,000  had  been  expended  for  its  reconstruction,  which,  with  the  cost 
of  the  original  edifice,  made  the  total  expenditure  a little  less  than 
$I3,000;000.  General  Meigs,  the  superintendent,  made  a report  to 
Congress,  in  which  he  said,  “ I have  labored  faithfully  and  diligently 
to  construct  this  building  in  such  a manner  that  it  would  last  for  ages 
as  a creditable  monument  of  the  state  of  the  arts  at  this  time  in  this 
country.” 

From  1867  to  the  present  time  nothing  of  consequence  has  been 
done  to  the  exterior  of  the  Capitol.  Edward  Clark,  of  Philadelphia, 
is  the  architect  in  charge.  The  interior  has  been  variously  adorned, 
and  the  grounds  greatly  improved.  Walter’s  plan  included  the  exten- 
sion of  the  eastern  facade  so  as  to  cover  the  “ deep  cuts”  made  by  the 
Senate  and  House  extensions,  which  would  give  an  unbroken  series 


THE  MAIN  BUILDING. 


77 


of  columns ; and  it  is  proposed  to  rebuild  the  front  and  the  back  of 
the  main  or  original  building  with  marble,  to  take  the  place  of  the 
sandstone,  which  requires  very  careful  painting  every  year  to  prevent 
it  from  crumbling.  These  changes  will  doubtless  be  made,  in  time. 

On  the  brow  of  a hill  w'hich  rises  ninety  feet  above  the  Potomac 
River  is  the  majestic  Capitol,  one  of  the  grandest  structures  in  the 
world.  It  covers  an  area  of  six  hundred  and  fifty-two  feet  more  than 
three  and  one-half  acres,  and  the  grounds  around  it  comprise  forty- 
six  acres.  Its  total  length  is  seven  hundred  and  fifty-one  feet  four 
inches,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  including  the  porticoes  and  the  steps, 
is  three  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet.  It  has  a principal  story,  and 
an  attic  story,  which  rest  upon  a rustic  basement.  The  basement 
supports  an  ordonnance  of  pilasters  rising  to  the  top  of  the  two  sto- 
ries above,  on  which  is  the  entablature,  and  a marble  balustrade  sur- 
mounts the  whole.  The  basement  story  is  devoted  to  committee- 
rooms  of  Congress,  the  Law  Library,  the  document  and  folding  rooms, 
the  House  post-office,  the  Senate  and  House  restaurants,  and  offices. 
The  principal  story  contains  the  Rotunda,  the  National  Statuary  Hall, 
the  Supreme  Court  Chamber,  the  National  Library  or  Library  of 
Congress,  and  the  halls  of  the  Houses  of  Congress,  with  various 
rooms  for  the  members  and  the  officials.  The  attic  stoiy  contains 
committee-rooms. 

The  main  building,  or  original  Capitol,  is  three  hundred  and  fifty- 
two  feet  four  inches  long,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-one  feet  six 
inches  deep.  On  the  eastern  fagade  is  a portico  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  wide  (the  grand  central  portico)  ; and  on  the  western  fagade 
is  a projection  of  eighty-three  feet,  which  forms  a recessed  portico 
of  ten  coupled  columns.  The  extensions,  or  north  and  south  wings, 
occupied  by  Congress,  are  connected  with  the  centre  building  by  cor- 
ridors, each  forty-four  feet  long,  and  fifty-six  feet  wide.  Each  wing 
is  one  hundred  and  forty-two  feet  eifrlit  inches  in  length,  and  two 
hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  ten  inches  in  width.  The  wings  have 
porticoes  of  twenty-two  columns  on  their  eastern  fagades,  and  porti- 
coes of  ten  columns  on  their  ends  and  western  fagades.  The  north 
wing  is  occupied  by  the  Senate,  and  the  south  v/ing  by  the  House  of 
Representatives . 

On  the  tympanum  of  the  grand  central  portico,  at  the  main  en- 
trance to  the  Capitol,  is  a colossal  allegorical  group  representing  the 
“ Genius  of  America,”  which  was  designed  by  John  Quincy  Adams, 


78 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


when  Secretary  of  State,  after  he  had  rejected  various  designs  sub- 
mitted in  competition  for  a premium.  It  comprises  three  figures,  the 
Goddess  of  Liberty,  with  Justice  and  Hope,  executed  in  sandstone  by 
Persico,  an  Italian  sculptor,  at  a cost  of  $1,500.  At  the  sides  of  the 
entrance  doors  are  niches  in  which  are  huge  statues  of  Carrara  mar- 
ble, representing  War  and  Peace,  also  executed  by  Persico.  They 
cost  $12,000.  War  is  portrayed  by  the  figure  of  Mars,  attired  as  a 
Roman  soldier,  with  sword  and  shield ; and  Peace  by  the  figure  of 
Ceres,  in  flowing  robes,  holding  fruits  and  an  olive-branch  in  her 
hands.  Above  the  door  is  a bust  of  Washington,  laurel-crowned,  cut 
in  stone  by  Capellano. 

On  the  top  of  the  broad  stone  steps  of  the  portico  are  two  huge 
groups  in  marble,  designated  as  “The  Discovery  of  America,”  and 
“ Civilization.”  The  first  group  is  the  work  of  Persico,  and  repre- 
sents Columbus  holding  the  globe  aloft  “ in  the  hollow  of  his  hand,” 
while  an  Indian  maiden  crouches  in  alarm  and  amazement  at  his  side. 
This  sculpture  is  said  to  give  a faithful  copy  of  the  armor  worn  by 
Columbus  when  he  discovered  America.  The  other  group  was  exe- 
cuted by  Horatio  Greenough.  It  represents  a desperate  encounter 
between  an  American  pioneer  and  an  Indian.  On  one  side  is  the 
wife  of  the  pioneer,  holding  her  babe  pressed  to  her  bosom,  shrink- 
ing from  the  contestants,  fearful  of  the  result.  These  groups  cost 
$48,000. 

The  twenty-four  massive  monolithic  columns  of  sandstone,  each 
thirty  feet  high,  which  constitute  the  portico,  were  placed  in  position 
in  1825.  They  were  quarried  on  an  island  in  Acquia  Creek,  and 
transported  to  Washington  in  flat-boats,  which  were  brought  to  the 
foot  of  Capitol  Hill  by  means  of  the  Tiber  Creek.  Ropes  were  then 
attached  to  the  columns,  and  they  were  dragged  up  the  hill  by  long 
lines  of  men,  and  every  day  many  congressmen  were  to  be  seen  pull- 
ing at  the  ropes,  laughing  and  shouting  like  school-bo}^s. 

On  the  steps  of  this  grand  portico  the  oath  of  ofiice  has  been  ad- 
ministered by  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  to  all  the  Pres- 
idents of  the  United  States,  from  Andrew  Jackson  in  1829  to  Grover 
Cleveland  in  1885.  Before  the  portico,  in  the  eastern  park,  100,000 
people  can  witness  the  inauguration  ceremony.  When  the  President  ■ 
has  taken  the  oath,  the  guns  of  the  Arsenal,  the  Navy  Yard,  and  the 
forts  around  Washington  fire  the  Presidential  salute. 

The  famous  Rogers  bronze  door  is  placed  in  the  main  entrance  to 
the  Capitol.  On  it  are  designs  in  high  relief  representing  events  in 


THE  ROGERS  BRONZE  DOOR. 


8o 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


the  life  of  Columbus,  and  the  discovery  of  the  American  continent. 
The  door  is  nineteen  feet  high,  and  nine  feet  wide,  and  is  folding  or 
double.  It  is  within  a bronze  casing,  on  which  are  emblematic  fig- 
ures of  conquest  and  navigation  in  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe.  It 
is  constructed  of  solid  bronze,  and  weighs  20,000  pounds.  There 
are  nine  panels,  in  which  the  scenes  are  arranged  in  regular  order, 
beginning  with  the  examination  of  Columbus  before  the  Council  of 
Salamanca,  and  following  with  his  departure  from  the  Convent  of  La 
Rabida  to  visit  the  Spanish  court.  Then  are  shown  the  “Audience 
at  the  court  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella”  ; the  “ Starting  of  Columbus 
from  Palos  on  his  first  voyage”;  the  “First  landing  of  the  Spaniards 
at  San  Salvador”;  the  “First  encounter  of  the  discoverers  with  the 
Indians”;  the  “Triumphal  entry  of  Columbus  into  Barcelona”; 
“Columbus  in  chains,”  and  his  “ Death  scene.”  Each  scene  is  veiy 
clearly  and  effectively  delineated.  Between  the  panels,  and  on  the 
sides  and  the  top  of  the  door  are  sixteen  small  statues  of  the  emi- 
nent contemporaries  of  Columbus,  together  with  ten  projecting  heads 
of  the  historians  of  his  voyages ; and  on  the  transom  arch  is  a bust 
of  the  great  navigator,  beneath  which  the  American  eagle  spreads 
its  wings.  The  door  was  modeled  by  Randolph  Rogers  in  Rome, 
in  1858,  and  cast  in  Munich  in  i860,  by  F.  von  Muller.  Its  cost  was 
$30,000. 

Broad  flights  of  marble  steps  lead  to  the  eastern  porticoes  of  the 
Senate  and  House  extensions.  On  the  tympanum  of  the  Senate 
portico  is  a group  of  figures  in  marble,  executed  by  Thomas  Craw- 
ford, illustrating  “ American  Civilization  and  the  Decadence  of  the 
Indian  races.”  Fifty  thousand  dollars  were  paid  for  this  work. 
America  is  the  central  figure ; on  the  left  are  figures  representing 
War,  Commerce,  Education,  and  the  Mechanical  Arts  ; on  the  right 
are  pioneers,  Indians,  and  an  Indian  grave.  Above  the  Senate  door 
is  a marble  group  representing  History  and  Justice. 

A bronze  door,  modeled  by  Tliomas  Crawford,  and  cast  in  Chico- 
pee. Mass.,  by  James  T.  Ames,  was  placed  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Senate  extension  in  1868.  It  was  executed  at  an  expense  of  nearly 
$57,000,  and  is  a notable  specimen  of  American  art.  It  portra}'s 
events  in  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  in  the  early  histor}^  of  the  Re- 
public. The  panels  contain  representations  of  the  “Battle  of  Bunker 
Hill  and  death  of  General  Warren”;  the  “Battle  of  Monmouth 
and  rebuke  of  Gen.  Charles  Lee,  the  traitor,  1778”;  “ Yorktowu 
— the  gallantry  of  Hamilton,  1781”;  a “Hessian  soldier  in  death- 


THE  GREAT  DOME. 


8l 


struggle  with  an  American”;  an  allegory  of  the  “Blessings  of 
Peace”;  the  “ Ovation  to  Washington  at  Trenton,  1789”;  the  “ First 
Inauguration  of  President  Washington,  1789”;  and  the  “ Laying  of 
the  Corner-stone  of  the  United  States  Capitol.”  The  door  is  the  finest 
example  of  bronze-work  ever  cast  in  the  United  States,  and  compares 
favorably  with  the  Rogers  door  in  design  and  execution. 

It  is  proposed  to  place  a bronze  door  at  the  main  entrance  to  the 
House  extension,  and  also  to  adorn  the  portico  with  marble  groups. 
Designs  for  a door  were  made  some  years  ago,  but  as  yet  Congress 
has  taken  no  action  in  the  matter. 

Rising  far  above  the  Capitol  is  the  great  dome,  an  object  of  im- 
posing beauty,  to  be  seen  for  miles  around.  No  edifice  in  the  world 
possesses  a dome  equal  to  it  in  grand,  classic  symmetry,  and  in  size 
it  is  only  equaled  by  the  domes  of  St.  Peter’s  in  Rome,  St.  Paul’s  in 
London,  and  the  Hotel  des  Invalid es  in  Paris.  It  was  designed  by 
Thomas  U.  Walter,  and  erected  by  Charles  Fowler.  The  most  beau- 
tiful forms  of  classical  architecture  are  embodied  in  it.  It  is  of  cast 
iron,  and  is  a vast  sphere  nearly  3,576  tons  in  weight.  The  builder 
states  that  it  was  constructed  on  a series  of  ribs  which  give  support  to 
the  large  outer  plates,  which  are  bolted  together.  It  is  nearly  all  of  one 
metal,  and  the  plates  are  so  arranged  that  they  will  expand  and  con- 
tract “ like  the  folding  and  unfolding  of  a lily,  all  moving  together.” 
Any  atmospheric  change  that  will  move  one  part  will  also  move  all 
the  others  — the  plates,  the  bolts,  and  the  other  mechanism,  and  “ the 
Rocky  Mountains  will  budge  as  quickly  ” as  this  ponderous  iron  struc- 
ture, which  is  likely  to  endure  for  ages.  It  is  prevented  from  rusting 
by  covering  it  yearly  with  white  paint  in  solid  coatings.  It  rises  from 
a colossal  peristyle,  with  tall,  fluted  columns,  above  which  is  a balus- 
trade, and  above  this  an  “ attic.”  On  its  top  is  a “ lantern,”  fifteen 
feet  in  diameter,  and  fifty  feet  high,  which  is  crowned  by  a huge  bronze 
statue  of  Freedom.  This  statue  stands  three  hundred  and  seventy- 
seven  feet  eleven  inches  above  the  level  of  the  Potomac  River.  From 
the  base  line  of  the  eastern  front  of  the  Capitol  to  the  top  of  the 
statue  it  is  two  hundred  and  eighty-seven  feet  eleven  inches.  Thomas 
Crawford  modeled  the  figure,  which  is  that  of  the  Goddess  of  Lib- 
erty, with  a “ liberty  cap”  of  eagle’s  feathers,  suggested  to  the  sculp- 
tor by  Jefferson  Davis,  when  Secretary  of  War.  The  figure  is  nine- 
teen and  one-half  feet  in  height,  and  weighs  14,985  pounds.  It  was 
cast  at  a foundry  in  Bladensburg,  Md.,  and  cost  nearly  $25,000. 


6 


82 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


The  body  of  the  statue  was  raised  to  the  lantern  on  the  dome  a few 
days  previous  to  the  2d  of  December,  1863,  and  on  that  day  the  head 
was  placed  on  the  body  with  patriotic  ceremony.  All  the  forts  around 
Washington  fired  rapid  salutes  as  the  head  of  the  goddess  was  care- 
fully hoisted  over  the  vast  iron  sphere,  and  when  it  had  reached  the 
summit  and  was  securely  fastened  to  the  body,  flags  were  dipped  on 
' every  public  building,  and  in  every  encampment  in  and  near  the  cit}’, 
and  a hundred  guns  on  the  District  and  Virginia  hills  rang  out  deep- 
toned  salutations  to  the  glorious  emblem  of  liberty. 

The  grounds  of  the  Capitol  comprise  an  open  court  on  the  east- 
ern, and  a grand  terrace  on  the  western  side  — in  all,  forty-six  acres 
of  park,  laid  out  in  an  attractive  manner,  and  planted  with  a great 
variety  of  luxuriant  trees  and  a wide  range  of  shrubbery,  which  afford 
pleasing  contrasts  of  form  and  color.  The  design  has  been  to  arrange 
the  grounds  for  convenience  of  business  with  Congress  and  the  Su- 
preme Court,  and  also  to  fitly  support  and  present  the  Capitol  to  ad- 
vantage. When  the  government  first  took  possession  of  the  tract  it 
was  overgrown  with  “ scrub  oaks,”  and  had  a soil  of  stiff  clay,  dusty 
in  dr}’,  and  like  mortar  in  wet  weather.  For  many  years  it  was  merely 
an  open  common,  with  roads  and  paths  crossing  it  in  all  directions. 
At  the  base  of  the  hill,  on  the  west,  flowed  the  Tiber  Creek,  a little 
stream  with  rugged  sycamore  trees  overhanging  its  banks.  In  the 
early  spring  it  was  not  fordable,  and  the  small  bridge  was  often 
washed  away  by  freshets.  Congressmen  in  riding  to  the  Capitol  were 
frequently  compelled  to  secure  their  horses  on  the  farther  side,  and  to 
pick  their  way  across  the  swollen  stream  on  fallen  trees.  Ten  years 
ago  the  Tiber  Creek  was  utilized  for  the  sewer  system  of  the  city,  and 
now  forms  a natural  sewer  much  larger  than  the  famous  sewers  of 
Paris.  It  runs  through  the  city  and  empties  into  the  Eastern  Branch 
of  the  Potomac.  Its  course  is  covered  by  streets,  under  which  the 
tide  ebbs  and  flows. 

President  Washington  planted  a number  of  trees  in  the  park  on 
the  north  of  the  Capitol,  and  one  of  these,  known  as  the  “ Washing- 
ton Elm,”  still  remains.  It  is  likely  to  outlive  many  more  Presidents, 
as  it  is  well  cared  for  and  in  a flourishing  condition.  In  1825  the 
grounds  were  laid  out  for  the  first  time  with  some  attempt  at  system. 
Rows  of  trees,  flower-beds,  grass-plats,  and  gravel  walks  were  ar- 
ranged. A few  years  later,  more  land  was  enclosed,  and  numerous 
trees  planted.  In  the  eastern  court  two  “barbecue  groves”  were 


THE  STATUE  OF  AVAST IINGTON. 


83 


made,  one  for  the  Democrats,  and  the  other  for  the  Whigs,  to  hold  their 
meetings  and  jubilations  in.  The  system  of  landscape  gardening  now 
in  use  was  begun  soon  after  the  Capitol  was  reconstructed.  Around 
the  building  on  the  western  side  an  architectural  terrace  is  to  be  con- 
structed, which  will  greatly  add  to  the  ornamentation  of  the  grounds. 
There  are  forty-six  carriage  and  foot  entrances  from  the  streets  on  all 
sides,  well  paved  with  concrete  and  smooth  stone,  and  the  entire  park 
is  enclosed  by  low  walls,  with  handsomely  ornamented  coping,  posts, 
arxi  gateways.  Many  trees  and  shrubs  from  foreign  countries  are 
growing  vigorously.  They  are  properly  described  by  means  of  labels 
attached  to  them,  and  visitors  are  thus  enabled  to  gain  accurate  knowl- 
edge of  the  varieties.  The  park  is  largely  used  as  a place  of  public 
resort  in  spring  and  summer,  and  the  government  has  provided  pretty 
rustic  arbors  and  resting-places,  drinking-fountains  of  pure  spring 
water,  and  plenty  of  wide,  comfortable  seats  under  lofty  trees  for  the 
use  of  all  who  seek  this  pleasant,  sylvan  retreat. 

In  the  eastern  court,  fronting  the  central  portico,  is  a colossal  mar- 
ble statue  of  Washington,  by  Horatio  Greenough.  The  statue  was 
executed  in  Italy,  and  its  cost,  including  the  pedestal  and  transporta- 
tion, was  nearly  $45,000.  Congress  ordered  it  in  1832,  and  ten  years 
later  it  was  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  Rotunda  of  the  Capitol.  Sub- 
sequently it  was  removed  to  its  present  location.  Greenough  was  a 
native  of  Boston,  and  died  near  that  city  in  1852,  after  a long  residence 
abroad.  In  writing  of  the  statue  he  said,  “ It  is  the  birth  of  my  thought, 
and  I have  sacrificed  to  it  the  flower  of  my  days  and  the  freshness  of 
my  strength  ; its  every  lineament  has  been  moistened  with  the  sweat 
of  my  toil  and  the  tears  of  my  exile.  I would  not  barter  away  its  asso- 
ciation with  my  name  for  the  proudest  fortune  avarice  ever  dreamed 
of.  ” Washington  is  represented  seated  in  a Roman  chair  adorned 
with  lions’  heads  and  the  acanthus  leaf.  The  figure  is  nude  to  the 
waist,  with  a mantle  draped  round  the  lower  part  and  extending  over 
the  right  shoulder.  The  right  hand  points  toward  heaven,  and  the 
left  holds  a sheathed  sword.  On  the  sides  of  the  chair  are  allegories 
of  Phoebus-Apollo  driving  the  chariot  of  the  sun,  and  Hercules  strang- 
ling the  serpent.  On  the  back  is  a Latin  inscription,  which  is  freely 
translated,  “ This  statue  is  for  a great  example  of  liberty,  nor  without 
liberty  will  the  example  endure.”  The  granite  pedestal  is  inscribed 
with  the  famous  eulogy  on  Washington,  uttered  by  Gov.  Henry  Lee, 
of  Virginia  : “ First  in  war,  first  in  peace,  first  in  the  hearts  of  his 

countrymen.” 


84 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


At  the  foot  of  Capitol  Hill,  near  the  main  entrance  to  the  western 
park,  is  the  Naval  Monument,  or  Monument  of  Peace,  executed  in 
Italy  by  Franklin  Simmons.  It  is  inscribed,  “ In  memory  of  the  offi- 
cers, seamen,  and  marines  of  the  United  States  Navy,  who  fell  in 
defence  of  the  Union  and  liberty  of  their  country,  1861-1865.”  It  is 
of  pure  Italian  marble,  and  rises  to  a height  of  forty-four  feet,  and 
rests  on  an  elaborate  granite  pedestal,  which  contains  a fountain.  It 
cost  $21,000,  and  the  pedestal  cost  $20,000.  At  the  top  are  large 
figures  representing  America,  and  History.  America  is  weeping, 
while  History  holds  a tablet  on  which  she  has  written,  “They  died 
that  their  country  might  live.”  A figure  portraying  Victory  stands 
below  the  other  figures,  holding  aloft  a wreath  of  laurel  in  her  right 
hand,  and  at  her  feet  are  miniature  images  of  Mars  and  Neptune.  On 
the  back  of  the  monument  is  a figure  of  Peace  bearing  an  olive-branch, 
and  surrounding  the  figure  are  models  of  agricultural  implements  and 
products.  This  fine  memorial  was  erected  from  funds  contributed 
by  members  of  the  navy,  and  the  pedestal  from  an  appropriation  by 
Congress. 

The  National  Botanical  Garden  adjoins  the  Capitol  grounds  on 
the  west,  and  is  part  of  the  government  reservation,  known  as  the 
Mall.  It  was  originally  an  alder  swamp,  with  the  Tiber  Creek  flow- 
ing through  it.  The  first  attempt  to  establish  a garden  here  was  made 
about  fifty  years  ago.  It  was  begun  with  a small  collection  of  trees 
and  plants  carelessly  brought  together,  and  of  no  special  value,  and 
it  was  not  until  1850,  when  the  first  building  was  erected,  that  it  began 
to  claim  attention.  At  that  time  Congress  commenced  to  make  an- 
nual appropriations  for  it,  and  it  was  enriched  by  having  placed  in  it 
the  extensive  and  valuable  botanical  collections  brought  to  Washington 
by  the  Wilkes  Exploring  Expedition  from  southern  climes.  Nothing 
now  remains  of  these  collections  save  a Jujube  tree.  During  the 
past  twenty  years  the  rarest  and  most  beautiful  plants  have  been 
gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  the  national  garden  is  at 
present  the  equal  in  many  respects  of  the  famous  gardens  of  Europe. 
Within  the  enclosure  of  ten  acres  are  small  houses  for  the  growing  of 
plants,  and  a grand  central  conservatory  three  hundred  feet  in  length, 
with  a huge  dome  — a veritable  palace  of  glass  and  iron,  with  large 
transept  halls  and  octagonal  pavilions,  filled  with  the  choicest  floral  pro- 
ductions. It  rivals  the  great  conservatory  in  the  Royal  Kew  Garden 
in  London,  or  that  on  tlie  Chatsworth  estate  of  the  Duke  of  Devon- 


THE  BOTANICAL  GARDEN. 


8S 


shire,  and  in  its  archi- 
tectural design  and 
proportions  it  is  finer 
than  either.  In  the 
avenues  of  the  garden 
is  an  extensive  scien- 
tific collection  of  trees, 
consisting  of  the  best 
American  and  foreign 
varieties,  and  eveiy- 
where  about  the 
grounds  the  most  val- 
ued flowers  and  shrubs  are  cultivated.  North  of  the  main  conserva- 
tory is  the  celebrated  Bartholdi  fountain,  which  was  exhibited  at  the 
Philadelphia  Centennial. 


STATUARY  HALL. 


86 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Visitors  throng  the  garden  in  winter  as  well  as  summer,  and  it  is 
regarded  as  one  of  the  attractions  of  Washington.  It  is  often  jocosely- 
called  the  “bouquet  garden”  for  congressmen.  During  the  annual 
session  of  Congress  as  many  as  two  thousand  bouquets  are  sent  from 
it  to  the  wives  and  fair  friends  of  the  statesmen,  and  when  the  session 
is  finished,  each  congressman  is  entitled  to  take  to  his  home  one  large 
box  of  choice  plants,  which  privilege  is  seldom  neglected,  particularly 
as  the  government  pays  the  cost  of  transporting  the  “ botanical  speci- 
mens” anywhere  throughout  the  United  States.  The  garden  is  under 
the  control  of  the  Library  Committee  of  Congress,  and  a liberal  appro-, 
priation  is  annually  made  for  it.  Its  superintendent  receives  a salary 
of  $i,8oo,  and  the  employes  are  paid  nearly  $10,000  per  year. 

Up  to  the  present  time,  good  judges  have  estimated,  the  Capitol 
has  had  expended  upon  it  not  much  less  than  fifty  millions  of  dollars. 
Its  works  of  art  and  the  interior  decorations  and  improvements  have 
cost  millions,  and  an  enormous  amount  of  money  has  been  expended 
upon  the  laying  out  and  ornamentation  of  the  grounds.  The  annual 
cost  of  caring  for  the  Capitol  is  very  large.  Even  to  light  it  and  the 
grounds  requires  the  }'early  expenditure  of  $25,000;  and  the  yearly 
compensation  of  its  engineers,  firemen,  laborers,  and  other  employes 
will  aggregate  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  special 
Capitol  police  are  paid  $36,600  per  year.  There  are  thirty  police- 
men, commanded  by  a captain  and  three  lieutenants.  They  preserve 
order,  protect  the  public  property,  and  give  information  to  visitors. 
The  architect  of  the  Capitol  receives  a salary  of  $4,500,  and  his 
office  is  provided  with  several  well-paid  employes.  The  building  is 
open  daily  from  9 a.  m.  until  5 p.  M.,  and  in  the  evening  whenever 
Congress  has  a night-session.  Then  the  lantern  on  the  dome  is 
lighted,  and  the  light  can  be  seen  from  every  part  of  Washington, 
shining  like  a great  brilliant  star  in  the  heavens. 

A VISIT  to  the  Capitol  is  not  complete  without  ascending  the  dome 
and  taking  the  wonderful  and  charming  view  from  the  top  of  this 
mighty  iron  globe.  It  is  a toilsome  ascent,  and  when  the  balustrade 
above  the  peristyle  is  reached,  many  people  are  content  to  stop  at  this 
point,  where  the  view  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  But  here  the  dome 
only  really  begins,  and  those  who  persevere  in  the  ascent,  and  linally 
arrive  at  the  summit  just  below  the  lantern  on  wliich  the  figure  of  lib- 
erty rests,  will  be  amply  repaid  for  all  their  toil.  Here  is  a circular 


THE  SCENE  FROM  THE  DOME. 


87 


landing  with  a strong  balustrade,  from  which  can  be  viewed  at  an  ele- 
vation of  about  three  hundred  feet,  the  city  of  Washington,  the  Poto- 
mac River,  and  the  hills  and  valleys  of  the  District  of  Columbia  and 
the  states  of  Maryland  and  Virginia  for  many  miles.  No  words  can 
express  the  grandeur  of  this  scene.  The  city  is  sharply  outlined  on  all 
sides,  each  prominent  building  standing  out  in  high  relief.  Murmurs  of 
its  busy  life  come  faintly  to  the  ear,  but  on  its  broad  streets,  filled  with 
innumerable  moving  things,  no  motion  is  apparent.  You  know  that 
thousands  of  changes  are  being  made  each  moment,  but  you  cannot 
perceive  the  slightest  movement  anywhere,  although  you  can  look 
from  end  to  end  of  the  thoroughfares.  To  the  west,  beyond  the  city, 
the  hills  of  Georgetown  and  of  Arlington  rise  blue  and  misty,  with  fields 
beyond  fields  spreading  out  to  meet  the  sky.  Along  the  Virginia 
shore  the  silver  thread  of  the  Potomac  can  be  seen  stretching  far  to 
the  southward  in  sparkling  loveliness,  till  it  is  hidden  by  jutting  banks. 
The  green  plateau  of  the  Soldiers’  Home  stands  out  boldly  to  the  north- 
ward, and  seemingly  within  easy  distance  is  Howard  University,  on 
the  brow  of  its  high  hill.  Fertile  plains,  rising  into  wooded  heights, 
are  to  the  east  and  south,  and  directly  downward  are  the  streets  and 
buildings  of  Capitol  Hill,  the  ships  of  war  in  the  Navy  Yard,  and  the 
waters  of  the  Anacostia.  It  is  a sight  long  to  be  treasured  in  the 
memory,  and  ever  recalled  wuth  delight. 

From  the  dome  one  is  enabled  to  obtain  a better  realization  of  the 
solidity  of  the  Capitol  than  from  the  ground  below.  The  massive 
edifice,  composed  of  marble,  sandstone,  and  iron,  is  spread  out  directly 
to  the  eye,  and  its  huge  proportions  are  clearly  revealed  in  all  their 
strength  and  grand  symmetry.  One  can  see  that  faithful,  honest 
work  has  been  done  in  constructing  this  greatest  and  most  beautiful 
of  American  edifices  — work  that  w'ill  certainly  bear  the  test  of  time. 
Every  part  of  the  Capitol  has  a very  substantial  appearance,  and  look- 
ing at  it  from  the  elevation  afforded  by  the  great  iron  sphere,  no  one 
can  fail  to  be  impressed  with  its  solidity.  Around  the  “ tholus  ” or 
lantern  of  the  dome  are  placed  numerous  electric  lights,  which  have 
a greater  elevation  than  any  similar  lights  in  the  country.  They 
illuminate  the  dome  at  night  in  a magnificent  manner.  A large 
electric  light,  with  a strong  reflector,  is  placed  at  the  base  of  the  dome 
on  the  western  side,  and  this  light  each  evening  casts  its  powerful 
rays  far  up  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 


CHAPTER  V 


tNTERIOR  OF  THE  CAPITOL  — THE  ROTUNDA  — ITS  HISTORICAL  PAINTINGS  AND 
CANOPY  — THE  NATIONAL  STATUARY  HALL  — STATUES  CONTRIBUTED  BY  THE 
STATES— THE  SUPREME  COURT  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES —THE  COURT  CHAM- 
BER-FAMOUS JUSTICES  AND  INTERESTING  COURT  CUSTOMS  — THE  LIBRARY 
OF  CONGRESS  — DETAILS  OF  THE  VAST  NATIONAL  COLLECTION  OF  BOOKS. 

The  Rotunda,  which  occupies  the  centre  of  the  interior  of  the 
Capitol,  is  a grand  circular  hall,  ninety-five  feet  six  inches  in 
diameter,  and  three  hundred  feet  in  circumference.  From  the 
floor  to  the  canopy  over  what  is  called  “ the  eye  of  the  dome,” 
it  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  three  inches  in  height.  Looking 
upward,  you  see  at  first  the  thirty-six  long  windows  of  the  peristyle  of 
the  dome,  which  admit  a flood  of  light,  and  then  the  gigantic  iron  ribs 
and  frame  of  the  dome  itself,  gradually  curving  to  the  “open  eye,” 
which  is  fifty  feet  in  diameter.  The  canopy  suspended  directly  over- 
head appears  very  small,  yet  it  is  an  immense  sheet  of  metal  and 
plaster,  covering  an  area  of  4,664  feet,  and  is  two  hundred  and  five 
feet  four  inches  in  circumference,  and  sixty-five  feet  four  inches  in 
diameter.  From  the  base  to  the  top  it  is  over  twenty  feet. 

On  this  canopy  is  an  allegorical  painting  by  Constantino  Brumidi, 
designated  as  “ The  Apotheosis  of  Washington.”  It  was  executed  at 
a cost  of  $39,500,  and  is  a remarkable  work  in  many  respects.  It 
represents  Washington  seated  in  majesty,  with  the  Goddess  of  Liberty 
at  his  right,  and  Victory  at  his  left  hand.  Encircling  the  central 
group  are  thirteen  female  figures,  portraying  the  thirteen  original 
states,  holding  a banner  on  which  is  inscribed,  “ E Pluribus  Unum.’’' 
Around  the  border  of  the  canopy  are  six  groups  of  figures,  emblem- 
.atic  of  the  Fall  of  Tyranny,  Agriculture,  Mechanics,  Commerce,  the 


90 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Marine,  and  the  Arts  and  Sciences.  Each  hgure  is  of  great  size,  and 
most  carefully  finished.  The  artistic  merit  of  this  painting  cannot,  of 
course,  be  appreciated  from  the  floor,  but  when  one  ascends  the  dome 
and  inspects  the  canopy  from  the  gallery  directly  under  it,  the  mas- 
sive figures,  the  glowing  colors,  and  the  exceeding  beauty  of  the  de- 
sign can  be  seen  to  advantage.  From  the  gallery  a downward  view 
of  the  Rotunda  can  be  obtained,  almost  startling  in  its  effect.  The 
height  and  extent  of  the  grand  hall  will  be  better  realized  from  this 
position  than  from  the  ffoor  below.  The  canopy  is  a perfect  “ W'his- 
pering  gallery,”  fully  equal  to  that  in  St.  Paul’s,  in  London.  Per- 
sons conversing  from  opposite  sides  of  the  gallery  over  which  the 
canopy  hangs,  can  distinctly  hear  the  slightest  whisper  across  the 
huge  concave. 

Eight  oil  paintings,  each  eighteen  by  twelve  feet,  are  set  in  panels 
round  the  walls  of  the  Rotunda.  The  first  of  the  series  depicts  the 
“ Landing  of  Columbus  at  San  Salvador,”  and  was  painted  by  John 
Vanderlyn  at  a cost  of  $10,000.  Then  follow  “ De  Soto’s  Dis- 
covery of  the  Mississippi,”  painted  by  William  H.  Powell  at  a cost  of 
$12,000  ; “ The  Baptism  of  Pocahontas,”  by  John  G.  Chapman,  and 
“ The  Embarkation  of  the  Pilgrims  from  Delft-Haven,”  by  Robert 
W.  Wier,  each  costing  $10,000. 

The  four  other  paintings  are  by  Col.  John  Trumbull,  a son  of  Gov. 
Jonathan  Trumbull,  of  Connecticut,  and  an  aide-de-camp  to  General 
Washington  during  the  Revolutionary  War.  They  faithfully  repre- 
sent important  scenes  of  the  struggle  for  American  independence. 
Trumbull  studied -art  in  Europe  after  leaving  the  arm}',  and  was 
engaged  for  nearly  thirty  years  in  gathering  material  and  executing 
the  paintings.  Washington  gave  him  several  sittings,  attired  in  full 
uniform  as  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Continental  Army,  and  many 
other  distinguished  persons  represented  in  the  series  were  painted 
from  life.  The  paintings  were  finished  in  1824,  Trumbull  receiving 
$32,000  for  them. 

The  first  painting  of  the  Trumbull  series  is  a representation  of  the 
“ Signing  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  July  4th,  1776.”  This 
contains  life-size  figures  of  the  signers,  each  face  being  regarded  as  a 
correct  likeness.  John  Hancock  is  represented  sitting  at  a table  on 
which  rests  the  Declaration,  and  standing  near  him  are  Jefferson, 
Adams,  Franklin,  Sherman,  and  Livingston,  the  committee  who  had 
reported  the  draft  of  the  instrument.  Disposed  in  chairs  about  the 
room  are  the  members  of  tlie  Continental  Congress. 


THE  ROTUNDA. 


91 


The  second  painting  depicts  the  “ Surrender  of  General  Burgoyne, 
Saratoga,  October  17th,  1777.”  General  Gates  is  represented  sur- 
rounded by  his  officers,  receiving  the  defeated  British  general  and  his- 
staff.  General  Burgoyne  tenders  his  sword,  but  General  Gates  de- 
clines to  take  it,  and  instead  invites  him  and  his  companions  to  enter 
his  tent  and  partake  of  refreshments. 

The  third  of  the  series  represents  the  “ Surrender  of  Lord  Corn- 
wallis at  Yorktown,  October  19th,  1781.”  It  shows  the  principal  Brit- 
ish officers  passing  before  the  American  and  French  generals,  and  the 
troops  drawn  up  in  line.  It  is  a spirited  delineation,  and  the  canvas 
seems  to  reflect  the  glory  of  the  great  triumph. 

The  “ Resignation  of  General  Washington  at  Annapolis,  Decem- 
ber 23d,  1783,”  is  the  subject  of  the  fourth  picture.  Washington  is 
portrayed  as  he  appeared  before  Congress  to  resign  his  commission 
as  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Continental  Army.  Many  figures  are- 
introduced,  and  Mrs.  Washington  and  her  grandchildren  are  repre- 
sented among  the  spectators.  This  painting  fitly  closes  a series  dis- 
tinguished for  exquisite  coloring,  accuracy  and  faithfulness  of  histor- 
ical details,  and  strong  effects. 

Above  the  paintings  are  arabesque  designs  executed  in  low  relief, 
and  panels  containing  medallion  heads  of  Columbus,  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh,  Cabot,  and  La  Salle.  Over  the  four  entrance  doors  of  the 
Rotunda,  in  oblong  panels,  are  alto  relievos  cut  in  stone,  representing 
“Penn’s  Treaty  with  the  Indians,”  by  Gevelot ; “The  Landing  of 
the  Pilgrims,”  and  a “Conflict  between  Daniel  Boone  and  the  In- 
dians,” by  Causici,  a pupil  of  Canova ; and  “The  Preservation  of 
Captain  John  Smith  by  Pocahontas,”  by  Capellano.  The  relievos 
cost  $14,000,  and  the  arabesque  designs -and  heads,  $9,500. 

Within  the  sunken  space  about  nine  feet  wide  which  encircles  the 
Rotunda  above  the  architrave,  is  a series  of  frescos  in  light  and 
shade  illustrating  the  principal  epochs  of  American  history.  The 
work  was  begun  by  Brumidi,  and  after  his  death  was  continued  by 
Castio;ini.  Each  fresco  is  broad  in  its  effect  and  of  sufficient  size  to 
be  clearly  seen  from  the  floor. 

The  Rotunda  has  a freestone  floor  which  is  supported  by  brick 
arches  resting  upon  peristyles  of  forts^  Doric  columns.  These  columns 
form  the  subterranean  chamber  called  the  Crypt,  in  which  it  was  pro- 
posed to  place  the  body  of  Washington  when  the  Rotunda  was  origin- 
ally designed.  The  plan  was  to  have  a galleried  opening  in  the  centre 
of  the  floor  through  which  the  sarcophagus  could  be  seen.  Mrs. 


92 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON- 


Washington  consented  to  the  proposition,  but  after  her  death  Washing- 
ton’s heirs  decided  that  by  the  terms  of  his  will  the  bod}'  must  remain 
at  Mount  Vernon.  Henry  Clay,  Daniel  Webster,  John  Qiiincy  Adams, 
and  other  distinguished  men  endeavored  for  a long  time  to  secure  the 
removal  of  the  body  to  the  Crypt,  but  as  the  Washington  family  were 
firm  in  refusal,  the  project  was  abandoned  in  1832.  When  the  Crypt 
was  first  constructed.  Congress  appointed  a keeper  of  it,  and  ordered 
a light  to  be  kept  burning  continuously  within  it.  This  light  was  not 
extinguished  for  over  fifty  years,  and  it  was  not  until  after  the  Civil 
War  that  the  office  of  “ Keeper  of  the  Crypt”  v/as  abolished. 

The  National  Statuary  Hall  is  entered  at  the  south  door 
from  the  Rotunda.  This  beautiful  hall  was  occupied  by  the  House 
of  Representatives  until  the  new  legislative  hall,  in  the  House  exten- 
sion, was  completed.  It  is  ninety-five  feet  long,  and  sixty  feet  high 
to  the  top  of  its  magnificently  painted  dome.  It  has  a colonnade  of 
twenty-six  massive  columns  and  pilasters  of  the  variegated  Potomac 
marble  called  “ breccia,”  and  a wide,  sweeping  arch.  It  was  designed 
by  Latrobe  to  resemble  the  ancient  Greek  theatres,  and  for  its  orna- 
mentation he  secured  the  services  of  a number  of  prominent  Italian 
artists,  among  whom  were  the  Franzoni  brothers,  and  Valperti  and 
Causici.  After  the  British  troops  had  partially  burned  the  hall,  La- 
trobe reconstructed  it  in  finer  proportions,  adding  the  marble  columns 
and  works  of  art.  It  was  declared  “ so  perfect  and  so  grand”  that  a 
writer  early  in  the  century  quaintly  said,  “ Its  defects  of  construction 
with  reference  to  acoustics,  is  a happy  circumstance  for  the  worthy 
fellowship  of  fault-finders,  who  would  otherwise  have  to  hang  them- 
selves from  the  galleries  in  despair.”  The  congressmen  who  used  it 
found  it  was  a badly  constructed  hall  for  public  speaking,  as  it  had 
very  provoking  echoes,  and  at  certain  points  “ a whisper  scarcely  audi- 
ble to  the  ear  into  which  it  was  breathed,  would  resound  over  the 
entire  hall.”  But  with  all  its  bad  acoustic  properties,  many  of  the 
most  eloquent  and  effective  speeches  ever  heard  in  the  halls  of  Con- 
gress have  been  delivered  in  this  old  legislative  chamber,  by  renowned 
statesmen,  whose  names  will  live  forever  in  the  annals  of  the  Republic. 

Under  the  arch  near  the  dome  is  a large  plaster  figure  of  Liberty, 
by  Causici,  and  beneath  it  is  the  American  eagle  with  outspread  wings, 
sculptured  in  stone  by  Valperti.  Over  the  main  entrance  is  a marble 
statue  of  History  recording  the  events  of  the  Nation,  while  rolling  over 
the  globe  in  a winged  car,  the  wheel  of  which  serves  as  a clock.  This 


THE  CAPITOL  — WEST  FRONT. 


94 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


was  executed  by  Carlo  Franzoni,  and  is  known  as  “ Franzoni’s  His- 
torical Clock.” 

When  the  House  of  Representatives  removed  to  its  new  hall  it  was 
suggested  by  Senator  Morrill,  of  Vermont,  then  a member  of  the 
House,  that  the  old  hall  should  be  taken  for  a National  Gallery  of 
Statuary,  and  that  “ each  state  should  be  permitted  to  send  the  effi- 
gies of  two  of  her  chosen  sons,  in  marble  or  in  bronze,  to  be  placed 
permanently  here.”  The  suggestion  was  adopted,  and  the  states  were 
invited  to  send  contributions  of  statues. 

The  first  to  respond  to  the  invitation  was  the  State  of  Rhode  Island, 
w’hich  contributed  a statue  of  Roger  Williams,  her  “ great  Apostle  of 
Religious  Freedom,”  and  a statue  of  Gen.  Nathanael  Greene,  a dis- 
tinguished soldier  of  the  Revolutionary  War.  Connecticut  followed 
with  statues  of  Gov.  Jonathan  Trumbull,  the  last  colonial  governor 
of  the  State,  to  whom  Washington  familiarly  applied  the  sobriquet 
of  “ Brother  Jonathan”;  and  Roger  Sherman,  one  of  the  signers  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.  New  York  sent  statues  of  George 
Clinton,  Vice-President  of  the  United  States  in  1804  ; and  Robert  R. 
Livingston,  who,  as  Chancellor  of  the  State  of  New  York,  admin- 
istered the  oath  of  office  to  President  Washington.  Massachusetts 
contributed  statues  of  Gov.  John  Winthrop,  of  colonial  fame,  and 
Samuel  Adams,  who  was  called  “ The  Father  of  the  Revolution.” 
Vermont  is  represented  by  statues  of  Col.  Ethan  Allen  and  Jacob 
Collamer ; Maine  by  a statue  of  Gov.  William  King,  her  first  gov- 
ernor; and  Pennsylvania  by  a statue  of  Robert  Fulton  and  Muhlen- 
berg, the  heroic  Revolutionary  Minister  ; Ohio  by  a statue  of  Garfield, 
and  one  of  Governor  Allen.  Doubtless  before  many  years  all  tlie 
states  w'ill  be  represented  in  this  silent  assembly  of  “ chosen  sons.” 

The  statues  are  regarded  as  fine  works  of  art,  and  as  highly  cred- 
itable to  the  states  which  have  placed  them  in  the  care  of  the  Nation. 
They  are  supplemented  by  statuary  and  portraits  purchased  by  the 
government.  Prominent  in  the  collection  is  a plaster  copy  of  Hou- 
don’s  famous  statue  of  Washington,  carefully  taken  from  the  original 
in  Richmond,  Va.  Here  also  is  Mrs.  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie’s  statue 
of  Lincoln. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  has  occupied  the  old 
Senate  Chamber,  north  of  the  Rotunda,  since  December,  i860.  Pre- 
vious to  that  time  it  held  its  sessions  in  what  is  now  tlie  Law  Library, 
in  the  basement  story  of  the  Capitol.  From  tlie  second  Monday  in 


THE  SUPREME  COURT. 


95 


October  until  the  first  week  in  May  in  each  year,  with  short  intermis- 
sions, the  court  sits  to  hear  cases  on  appeal,  and  to  decide  constitu- 
tional questions.  The  court  consists  of  a Chief  Justice,  with  a salary 
of  $10,500  per  year,  and  eight  Associate  Justices  with  salaries  of 
$10,000.  The  justices  are  appointed  by  the  President,  and  “ hold 
their  offices  during  good  behavior.”  The  court  officials  include  a 
clerk  and  deputy  clerk,  a marshal,  and  a reporter.  During  a portion  of 
the  year  the  justices  act  as  circuit  justices  in  the  nine  judicial  circuits 
of  the  United  States,  each  justice  being  assigned  to  a particular  cir- 
cuit, in  which  he  receives  the  assistance  of  the  specially  appointed 
circuit  and  district  justices.  The  Federal  courts  have  jurisdiction  of 
all  constitutional  questions,  and  of  all  offences  against  the  laws  of 
the  United  States  not  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  state  courts. 

The  chamber  of  the  Supreme  Court  was  the  first  portion  of  the 
Capitol  that  was  finished,  and  in  1800  it  was  occupied  by  the  Senate. 
It  was  reconstructed  by  Latrobe  after  the  British  invasion,  and  until 
the  winter  of  1859,  when  the  Senators  left  the  familiar,  classic  cham- 
ber for  their  new  hall,  “ all  gold  and  buff,”  it  was  the  place  where 
some  of  the  most  important  contests  in  the  history  of  American  leg- 
islation occurred.  The  chamber  is  semi-circular  in  form,  and  of  pure 
Grecian  design.  The  ceiling  is  part  of  a low  dome,  the  greatest 
elevation  being  forty-five  feet.  The  greatest  width  of  the  floor  is 
seventy-five  feet.  Ionic  columns  of  Potomac  marble,  with  white 
marble  capitals,  form  a screen  at  the  back  of  the  long  judicial 
bench,  and  around  the  walls  are  marble  pilasters,  and  marble  busts 
of  deceased  Chief  Justices.  There  is  a small  gallery  over  the  bench, 
with  windows  through  which  the  daylight  streams.  The  justices 
sit  with  their  backs  to  a large  crimson  curtain,  and  in  front  of  them 
is  a curtained  bar  with  a railing.  In  the  central  area  are  mahogany 
chairs  and  tables  for  the  use  of  lawyers  and  others  having  business 
with  the  honorable  court.  Outside  of  the  area  are  rows  of  comfort- 
able seats,  cushioned  in  red  velvet,  for  spectators.  The  chamber  is 
a very  beautiful  example  of  classical  symmetry. 

Promptly  at  noon  of  each  day  that  the  court  is  in  session  the  crier 
requests  all  persons  in  the  chamber  to  rise,  and  then  announces  in 
measured,  solemn  tone,  “The  Honorable  Chief  Justice  and  the  Asso- 
ciate Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States.”  Nine  dig- 
nified gentlemen,  attired  in  long  silken  robes,  march  in  from  the  “ with- 
dra wing-room,”  and  take  their  places  upon  the  bench  with  the  Chief 
Justice  in  the  centre.  They  bow  all  together  very  courteously  to  the 


96 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


members  of  the  bar,  who  return  the  polite  salutation,  and  then  seat 
themselves  in  their  wide,  comfortable  chairs.  The  crier  then  opens 
the  session  in  the  usual  form  : “ Oyes  ! Oyes  ! Oyes  ! All  persons 

having  business  with  the  honorable  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United 
States  are  admonished  to  draw  near  and  give  their  attention,  as  the 
court  is  now  sitting.  God  save  the  United  States  and  this  honorable 
court.” 

Usually  the  decisions  of  the  court  are  read  by  one  of  the  justices 
at  the  beginning  of  the  day’s  session.  Until  four  o’clock  in  the  after- 
noon the  business  continues  without  intermission.  The  chamber  is 
free  from  disturbing  noise.  Cases  are  argued  by  the  lawyers  in  a low, 
conversational  tone,  save  when  some  legal  luminary  from  the  back- 
woods,  sent  to  Washington  by  admiring  clients,  tries  to  make  an  im- 
pression on  the  court  by  means  of  artful  tricks  and  mannerisms  suc- 
cessful with  a juiy , and  declaims  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  strides  back 
and  forth,  and  sets  out  the  merits  of  his  cause  with  emotional  and 
gymnastic  effect.  But  usually  the  counsel  who  appear  before  this 
high  tribunal  are  gentlemen  of  skill  and  discrimination,  who  know 
that  solid  arguments,  stated  quietly  and  easily,  are  all  that  is  necessary 
here.  The  thick  carpet  on  the  floor  entirely  prevents  the  sound  of 
footfalls  as  people  come  and  go,  and  a high  screen  hides  the  entrance 
door  from  the  view  of  the  bench  and  the  bar.  Gray-haired  colored 
attendants  guard  the  door,  and  inform  visitors  in  a whisper  where  to 
sit.  And  so  all  the  afternoon  the  legal  stream  flows  along  as  placidly 
as  the  waters  of  the  Potomac.  The  chamber  gives  you  a drowsy 
feeling.  You  listen  to  the  “lawyers  with  their  endless  tongues, ’’and 
in  following  the  droning  arguments  soon  feel  so  inclined  to  sleep  that 
you  wonder  how  the  honorable  justices  manage  to  keep  their  eyes 
open  during  the  four  hours  of  the  sitting.  Indeed,  members  of  the 
court  have  said  that  the  room  was  so  “ full  of  repose”  that  they  often 
had  to  struggle  to  keep  from  sleeping  while  a dull  argument  was 
going  on. 

Some  of  the  justices  sit  very  quiet  and  appear  to  pay  a great  deal 
of  attention  to  the  lawyers.  Others  are  nervous  and  uneasy,  and  twist 
about  in  their  chairs  constantly.  One  justice  has  the  habit  of  getting 
up  and  standing  behind  his  chair  to  rest  himself.  They  turn  over  the 
pages  of  the  briefs,  consult  books  brought  to  them  by  attendants,  and 
now  and  then  put  pertinent  questions  to  the  counsel.  Sometimes  a jus- 
tice, by  a few  keen  remarks,  will  show  the  matter  under  consideration 
in  such  a clear  light,  that  the  lawyer  who  is  trying  to  muddle  it  will 


CHAMBER  OF  THE  SUPREME  COURT  OF  IHE  UNITED  STATES. 


98 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


become  quite  embarrassed,  and  abruptly  close  his  argument.  The  jus- 
tices are  complaisant  in  manner,  and  there  is  no  stiffness,  no  assump- 
tion of  superiority,  often  seen  in  very  ordinary  tribunals.  They 
address  the  lawyers  pleasantly,  and  are  patient  in  hearing  even  the 
most  tiresome  discussion.  The  two  senior  justices  sit  at  the  right  and 
left  of  the  Chief  Justice,  and  the  others  are  disposed  on  the  bench  in 
the  order  of  their  appointment.  In  their  consultation-room  the  same 
order  is  observed  at  the  table  around  which  they  sit. 

The  black  silk  robes  worn  by  the  justices  are  nearly  like  those 
used  by  clergymen  of  the  Episcopal  church.  They  reach  to  the  feet, 
and  have  capacious  sleeves.  Before  entering  the  court  chamber  the 
justices  are  dressed  in  their  “sheeny  gowns,”  in  the  robing-room,  by 
colored  attendants.  In  the  first  part  of  the  century  it  was  customary 
for  the  members  of  the  court  to  wear  wigs,  and  to  cover  their  nether 
limbs  with  small-clothes.  Lawyers  were  expected  to  appear  in  court 
in  full  suits  of  black,  with  ruffled  shirts,  small-clothes,  silk  hose,  and 
low  shoes  with  silver  buckles.  It  is  the  court  custom  now  for  lawyers 
to  wear  black  and  a frock  coat,  but  occasionally  a “ business  suit” 
will  be  seen. 

There  was  a great  deal  of  formal  ceremony  in  the  court  some  years 
ago,  most  of  it,  doubtless,  taken  from  the  English  courts,  but  it  has 
been  gradually  abandoned,  and  now  very  little  is  left.  The  early 
justices  were  treated  with  high  respect,  not  unmingled  with  a certain 
amount  of  awe,  and  members  of  the  bar  seldom  attempted  to  be  famil- 
iar with  them  either  on  or  off  the  bench,  unless  they  were  in  intimate 
social  relations.  It  is  related  of  Henry  Clay,  who  was  noted  for 
suavity,  that  he  stopped  one  day  when  arguing  a case  before  the  court, 
and  advancing  to  the  bench  in  graceful  manner,  took  a pinch  of  snuff 
from  the  box  of  a justice,  saying,  “ I perceive  that  }mur  honor  sticks 
to  the  Scotch,”  and  then  resumed  his  argument.  This  excited  much 
astonishment  at  the  time,  and  Justice  Story  said,  “I  do  not  believe 
there  is  a man  in  the  United  States  who  could  have  done  that  but  Mr. 
Clay.”  _ ^ • 

The  first  Chief  Justice  was  John  Jay,  of  New  York,  who  was  ap- 
pointed when  the  court  was  organized,  in  1789,  and  served  until  1795- 
A portrait  of  him,  painted  by  Gilbert  Stuart,  hangs  in  the  robing-room. 
Following  Jay  were  John  Rutledge,  of  South  Carolina,  and  Oliver 
Ellsworth,  of  Connecticut.  Then  John  Marshall,  of  Virginia,  became 
Chief  Justice  in  1801,  and  remained  on  the  bench  for  thirty-four  }'ears. 

Chief  Justice  Marshall  has  been  placed  in  the  front  rank  of  Ameri- 


EARLY  JUSTICES. 


99 


can  magistrates  for  profound  learning,  inflexible  honesty,  and  a rare 
genius  for  logical  argument.  He  was  called  “ the  great  Chief  Jus- 
tice.” He  was  dignified,  but  very  kind  in  manner.  He  was  tall  and 
ungainly,  and  noted  for  wearing  very  shabby  clothes.  In  the  coldest 
weather  he  never  wore  an  overcoat,  and  was  often  seen  on  winter 
days  walking  at  a rapid  pace  through  the  streets  of  Washington,  clad 
only  in  his  rusty,  thin  black  suit.  He  was  very  fond  of  society,  was 
exceedingly  hospitable,  and  frankly  acknowledged  he  enjoyed  the 
pleasures  of  the  table.  He  took  infinite  delight  in  playing  billiards 
and  quoits,  and  even  when  over  seventy-five  years  old  was  always 
ready,  in  his  leisure  moments,  to  play  these  games,  and  whenever  he 
scored  good  points  he  would  shout  with  childish  glee.  In  addition 
to  his  severe  labors  as  Chief  Justice,  he  found  time  to  write  a very 
excellent  life  of  Washington. 

During  his  time  one  of  the  associate  justices  was  Bushrod  Wash- 
ington, a nephew  of  President  Washington.  He  was  on  the  bench  for 
thirty-one  years,  and  achieved  a fine  reputation  as  a learned  and  in- 
dustrious magistrate.  He  was  a small,  thin  man,  of  rather  insignifi- 
cant appearance.  Severe  study  had  deprived  him  of  the  use  of  one 
eye,  but  it  was  commonly  remarked  that  “ he  could  see  more  with  one 
eye”  than  most  men  with  two.  He  had  a great  fondness  for  Vir- 
ginia tobacco,  and  was  continually  smoking  or  taking  snufT.  He  was 
never  known  to  become  tired  at  the  most  protracted  sittings  of  the 
court,  and  once  gi*eatly  astonished  the  people  of  a town  where  he 
was  holding  a circuit  court  by  having  a continuous  session  for  six- 
teen hours. 

The  early  justices  were  not  allotted  to  certain  circuits,  as  they  are 
now,  but  each  in  turn  traveled  over  the  entire  country,  often  meeting 
with  very  interesting  adventures.  Justice  Wilson  always  made  the 
grand  tour  in  a huge  lumbering  coach  and  four,  with  dashing  out- 
riders ; Justice  Todd,  in  one  year,  rode  over  two  thousand  miles  on 
horseback  in  performing  his  judicial  duty.  Some  of  the  justices 
traveled  in  open  phaetons  with  two  horses. 

From  1835  to  the  present  time  there  have  been  three  Chief  Jus- 
tices— Roger  B.  Taney,  Salmon  P.  Chase,  and  Morrison  R.  Waite, 
the  present  incumbent  of  the  office.  Chief  Justice  Taney  served 
twenty-eight  years,  and  Chief  Justice  Chase  a little  less  than  ten 
years.  Chief  Justice  Waite  is  of  Ohio,  and  was  appointed  by  Pres- 
ident Grant  in  1874.  There  have  been  forty-three  associate  justices. 
Justice  Joseph  Story  was  a member  of  the  court  for  thirty-four  years, 


lOO 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


and  quite  a number  of  the  justices  served  more  than  twenty  years. 
By  the  law  of  1869  a justice  may  retire  with  full  salary  when  seventy 
years  old,  if  he  has  given  ten  years  of  service. 

The  docket  of  the  court  is  always  crowded  with  cases,  most  of 
them  involving  questions  of  great  importance,  and  suitors  are  com- 
pelled to  wait  generally  for  two  or  three  years,  and  sometimes  longer, 
before  they  can  have  a hearing.  Not  more  than  four  or  five  hundred 
cases  can  be  disposed  of  in  a year,  and  as  there  are  usually  over 
one  thousand  cases  on  the  docket  at  each  term,  the  unavoidable 
“ law’s  delay’,’  is  very  trving  to  the  patience  and  the  purses  of  liti- 
gants. Several  plans  of  relief  have  been  proposed,  but  as  yet  Con- 
gress has  considered  none  of  them. 

The  official  etiquette  of  Washington  requires  that  the  Chief  Jus- 
tice and  the  associate  justices  shall  pay  an  official  visit  to  the  President 
and  to  the  Vice-President  annually,  on  the  day  of  the  opening  of  the 
court  session.  They  are  also  required  to  call  on  the  President  on  the 
first  day  of  January.  During  the  winter  the  President  entertains  the 
court  at  a ceremonious  dinner. 

A VISIT  to  the  Library  of  Congress,  or,  as  it  is  frequently  and  per- 
haps more  properly  called,  the  National  Library,  will  enable  one  to 
better  realize  King  Solomon’s  saying — “Of  making  many  books 
there  is  no  end.”  In  the  beautifully  decorated  library  halls,  occupy- 
ing the  entire  central  portion  of  the  western  front  of  the  Capitol, 
there  are  580,000  books  and  180,000  pamphlets.  They  are  in  many 
languages  — a vast  store  of  literature,  representing  the  researches 
and  product  of  the  mind  in  every  conceivable  field  of  human  knowl- 
edge. The  library  is  now  one  of  the  five  great  libraries  of  the  world, 
and  at  its  present  rate  of  increase  will  number  a million  books  and 
pamphlets  in  about  ten  years.  The  halls  are  crowded  to  repletion 
with  publications  — books  in  every  available  space  ; closely  packed 
two  deep  on  the  shelves  which  extend  tier  after  tier  through  the  sto- 
ried rooms  ; lying  in  great  heaps  on  the  floors  ; loading  the  railings 
of  the  galleries  — half  a million  volumes  crammed  into  quarters 
originally  designed  for  less  than  half  that  number.  An  appropria- 
tion act  has  been  passed  to  construct  a large  building  adjacent  to  the 
Capitol,  to  cost  about  $3,000,000,  for  the  use  of  this  inestimable 
National  Library.  This  new  library  edifice  will  be  located  at  the 
junction  of  East  Capitol  and  First  streets,  directly  ojiposite  the  House 
of  Representatives,  and  fronting  the  Eastern  Capitol  Park.  It  will 
measure  460  feet  front  by  310  feet  in  depth,  and  will  cover  about 


THE  NATIONAL  LIBRARY. 


lOI 


thr  e e 
- and  a 
half 
acres,  being  de- 
signed  to  store 
about  three  mil- 
lion volumes.  On 
the  second  floor  an  art  gal- 
lery will  be  provided,  300  feet 
long  b}'^  35  wide,  for  the  ar- 
rangement and  exhibition  of 
the  extensive  collection  of 

THE  NATIONAL  LIBRARY.  , - , . , i • i 

works  of  graphic  art  which 


the  National  Library  has  accumulated. 

The  western  door  of  the  Rotunda  leads  to  the  main  hall  of  the 
library.  This  hall  is  91  feet  long,  34  feet  wide,  and  38  feet  high.  It 
is  flanked  by  two  others,  each  about  the  same  size  as  the  main  one. 
They  are  lighted  by  windows  and  crystal  roofs,  are  constructed  of 
iron,  with  floors  of  marble,  and  are  entirely  fire  proof.  They  are 
painted  in  light,  delicate  colors,  and  adorned  with  gold-leaf,  and 
present  an  elegant  appearance.  The  book-cases  are  of  iron,  and 
iron  railings  protect  the  alcoves.  Small  galleries  extend  along  the 
stories.  It  is  estimated  that  the  halls  contain  nearly  five  miles  of 
book  shelving,  yet  the  library  increases  yearly  at  such  an  enormous 
rate,  thaj  these  miles  of  shelving  have  long  since  proved  insufficient 


102 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


to  hold  the  literary  collections.  In  the  main  hall  is  the  desk  of  the 
librarian,  at  which  all  applications  for  books  must  be  made.  Tables 
and  chairs  are  placed  in  two  of  the  halls  for  readers,  and  one  hall  is 
used  almost  entirely  by  the  employes  engaged  in  cataloguing  publica- 
tions and  attending  to  the  copyright  business. 

The  library  force  consists  of  a librarian,  whose  title  is  the  “ Li- 
brarian of  Congress,”  and  twenty-three  assistant  librarians.  The 
compensation  of  the  librarian  is  $4,000  per  3'ear,  and  the  assistants 
receive  $32,640  in  all.  Congress  annually  appropriates  about  $12,- 
000  for  the  purchase  of  books  of  reference  not  published  in  the  United 
States,  files  of  newspapers,  etc.  Only  members  of  Congress,  and 
about  forty  high  officials  of  the  government,  have  the  right  to  take 
books  away  from  the  library,  but  all  persons  over  sixteen  years  of  age 
have  the  privilege  of  freely  using  the  collections  inside  the  halls.  This 
great  privilege  is  taken  advantage  of  by  thousands  of  people  from  all 
portions  of  the  United  States,  who  desire  to  investigate  certain  sub- 
jects, and  every  day  the  halls  contain  several  hundred  readers. 

In  some  cases  a person  seeking  the  widest  information  of  a special 
matter  can  have  spread  before  him,  within  a short  time,  many  books 
and  pamphlets  bearing  on  the  subject,  which  have  come  from  Ameri- 
can, English,  French,  and  German  presses  for  over  a century — pages 
dim  and  yellow  with  age,  or  bright  and  fresh  from  the  publisher’s 
hands.  The  collections  are  rich  in  ancient  and  rare  historical  works, 
in  books  and  pamphlets  pertaining  to  the  history  of  states,  counties, 
and  towns,  and  the  files  of  American  and  foreign  newspapers  and 
magazines  are  very  extensive.  There  are  files  of  the  principal  news- 
papers printed  in  New  England,  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Mary- 
land, Virginia,  and  other  states,  from  1735  to  1800;  and  from  the 
latter  date  to  the  present  time  the  collections  of  newspapers  and  peri- 
odicals are  unrivaled.  Among  very  rare  works  are  two  great 
volumes  written  on  vellum,  issued  in  the  thirteenth  century,  a copy 
of  Eliot’s  Indian  Bible,  and  the  various  volumes  written  hy  Cotton 
and  Increase  Mather.  The  departments  of  miscellaneous  literature 
are  very  full.  Many  an  old  novel,  forgotten  long  ago  ; many  a 
poem,  many  a song  or  play,  dead  and  buried  for  two  or  three  score 
years,  can  be  exhumed  from  this  vast  literary  storehouse.  The  aim 
always  has  been  to  collect  published  in  the  United  States 

that  could  be  obtained,  and  as  much  of  foreign  literature  as  possible, 
in  order  that  the  library  should  be  complete  in  the  full  meaning  of 
the  term. 


THE  NATIONAL  LIHRARY. 


103 


By  law  the  Librarian  of  Congress  has  charge  of  the  copyright 
business,  and  all  applications  for  copyrights  of  books,  maps,  dramatic 
or  musical  compositions,  and  works  of  art,  have  to  be  made  to  him. 
Copyrights  are  granted  for  twenty-eight  years,  and  then  may  be  re- 
newed for  fourteen  years.  Some  figures  of  the  copyright  business 
may  be  interesting,  as  they  show  the  great  mental  activity  of  the  peo- 
ple of  the  United  States.  During  the  year  1886  there  were  granted 
31,241  copyrights,  and  the  government  received  in  fees  the  sum  of 
$25,421.  Of  the  articles  copyrighted  there  were  11,136  books,  6,089 
periodicals,  7,514  musical,  and  672  dramatic  compositions.  Two 
complete  copies  of  each  publication  copyrighted  must  be  deposited  in 
the  Library  of  Congress  to  perfect  the  copyright.  Thus  the  library 
is  enabled  to  possess  copies  of  all  printed  matter  issued  in  the  country 
on  which  a copyright  is  granted. 

The  library  exchanges  many  of  its  spare  copies  of  publications 
with  the  libraries  of  foreign  governments,  obtaining  much  valuable 
foreign  literature  in  this  way.  All  the  publications  and  exchanges  of 
the  Smithsonian  Institution  are  deposited  here.  Many  donations  of 
books  are  received  from  institutions  and  individuals  all  over  the 
world,  and  purchases  of  thousands  of  volumes  are  made.  Whenever 
a famous  private  library  is  sold,  bids  from  this  library  are  generally 
forwarded,  and  many  rare  books  are  purchased. 

In  1800  Congress  established  this  literary  treasure-house  with  a 
number  of  books  obtained  from  London.  This  was  the  list:  “ 212 
folios,  164  quartos,  581  octavos,  7 duodecimos,  and  9 magazines. 
It  was  the  only  library  of  reference  the  government  then  possessed. 
In  1814  the  collection  had  increased  to  about  3,000  volumes,  which 
went  to  feed  the  fires  started  by  the  British  troops  in  the  Capitol. 
The  next  year  Congress  purchased  President  Jefferson’s  private  col- 
lection of  about  7,000  books,  considered  the  finest  in  the  country  at 
that  time,  for  $23,950,  and  this  was  the  nucleus  of  the  present  Library 
of  Congress.  In  1851  there  were  55,000  volumes  on  hand,  but  in 
December  of  that  year  nearly  35,000  were  destroyed  by  a fire  in  the 
library  hall.  The  fire  also  consumed  a number  of  valuable  paintings, 
including  Gilbert  Stuart’s  portraits  of  the  first  five  Presidents.  The 
main  hall  was  soon  restored  in  fire-proof,  after  designs  by  Walter, 
and  the  two  iron  extensions  added,  the  work  costing  $280,500. 
Congress  yearly  appropriated  large  sums  of  money  for  the  purchase 
of  books.  Through  the  efforts  of  ex-President  Hayes,  then  a mem- 
ber of  Congress,  and  chairman  of  the  Committee  on  the  Library,  the 
invaluable  historical  collections  belonging  to  Peter  Force,  of  Wash- 


PLAN  OF  THE  BASEMENT  STORY  OF  THE  CAPITOL. 
{Occupied  as  Committee  Rooms ^ by  the  Law  Library^  RestaurantSj  etc.' 


HISTORICAL  COLLECTIONS. 


105 

ington,  were  purchased  for  $100,000,  and  deposited  in  the  library. 
These  collections  of  books,  pamphlets,  prints,  etc.,  pertaining  to  early 
American  history,  are  of  inestimable  value.  They  were  accumulated 
during  many  years  of  earnest  and  enthusiastic  antiquarian  labor.  In 
1866  the  library  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution  was  added  to  the 
Library  of  Congress. 

The  law  department  contains  nearly  70,000  volumes,  and  is  con- 
sidered very  complete.  Every  volume  of  American,  English,  Irish, 
and  Scotch  court  reports  is  to  be  found  here,  together  with  the  stat- 
utes of  all  countries,  from  1649  to  the  present  time.  From  2,500  to 
3,500  volumes  are  added  yearly. 

This  collection  of  works  relating  to  jurisprudence,  which  is  the 
largest  and  most  valuable  in  the  country,  is  contained  in  the  base- 
ment story  of  the  Capitol,  in  what  was  formerly  the  chamber  of  the 
Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States.  The  chamber  is  directly  under- 
neath the  present  court  chamber,  and  is  a notable  example  of  classical 
architecture.  It  was  designed  and  constructed  by  Latrobe,  and  was 
occupied  for  court  purposes  from  the  earl}"  part  of  the  century  until 
the  winter  of  i860.  In  the  vestibule  Latrobe  placed  his  celebrated 
“ cornstalk  columns”  with  capitals  of  ears  of  corn,  which  have  been 
described  as  the  “ American  order  of  architecture.” 

There  have  been  many  important  suits  at  law  heard  in  the  old 
chamber — suits  concerning  the  disposition  of  vast  properties,  and 
the  settlement  of  complicated  questions  of  rights  and  privileges,  every 
step  of  which  has  been  earnestly  contested  by  lawyers  of  rare  ability 
and  great  distinction.  Clay  and  Webster,  and  numerous  other  ad- 
vocates of  eminence  in  the  history  of  American  jurisprudence,  have 
pleaded  here  with  eloquent  tongues  and  strong  arguments — bright 
lights  of  the  age  that  has  gone.  Here  the  renowned  Chief  Justice, 
John  Marshall,  of  Virginia,  whose  effigy  in  bronze  now  adorns  the 
western  grounds  of  the  Capitol,  presided  for  many  years,  and  here 
most  of  his  decisions  upon  vital  constitutional  questions  were  given  — 
decisions  which  have  remained  to  this  day  as  the  law  of  the  land. 
Here  the  early  justices — men  of  sound  and  extensive  learning  — 
served  long  terms.  The  old  chamber,  now  crowded  with  volumes 
of  law,  is  indeed  an  historic  place. 

The  law  library  is  extensively  used  by  lawyers  every  day,  and 
is  also  of  great  service  to  the  justices  of  the  Supreme  and  District 
courts  in  preparing  their  decisions.  Many  members  of  the  legal  pro- 
fession from  distant  parts  of  the  country  frequently  visit  Washington 
to  consult  its  rare  volumes. 


THE  SEXATE  CHAMBER. 


CHAPTER  VI 


THE  CONGRESS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  — ITS  FIRST  SESSION  IN  THE  CAPITAL 
CITY  — THE  OLD  HALLS  OF  LEGISLATION  — QUAINT  CUSTOMS  OF  BY-GONE 
DAYS  — GREAT  STATESMEN  AND  THEIR  CHARACTERISTICS  — ANECDOTES  AND 
PERSONALITIES  — THE  PRESENT  HOUSES  OF  CONGRESS  — SENATE  AND  HOUSE 
EXTENSIONS  OF  THE  CAPITOL. 

The  First  Congress  of  the  United  States,  under  the  Constitu- 
tion, began  its  session  in  New  York  on  the  4th  of  March, 
1789.  In  1790  Congress  removed  to  Philadelphia,  and  for 
ten  years  thereafter  held  its  sessions  in  that  city.  On  No- 
vember 17,  1800,  the  Sixth  Congress  convened  in  Washington  in  the 
unfinished  Capitol,  and  on  the  22d  of  that  month  President  John 
Adams  appeared  before  both  houses,  in  joint  session  in  the  Senate 
Chamber,  and  made  the  customary  “annual  speech.”  Vice-Pres- 
ident Thomas  Jefferson  presided  over  the  Senate,  and  the  Hon. 
Theodore  Sedgwick,  of  Massachusetts,  was  the  Speaker  of  the  House 
of  Representatives. 

When  Congress  began  its  sessions  in  Washington,  only  the  north 
wing  of  the  Capitol  was  finished,  and  that  was  badly  constructed. 
The  Senate  Chamber  was  mostly  of  wood  and  plaster,  and  was  not 
completed  in  its  present  substantial,  symmetrical  manner  until  after 
Latrobe  had  reconstructed  the  building  in  1815-17.  The  House  of 
Representatives  at  first  was  crowded  into  a room  intended  for  the 
Senate  officials,  but  a temporary  apartment  was  soon  arranged  for  it 
in  the  south  wing  of  the  Capitol.  This  apartment  was  facetiously 
called  “the  oven,”  and  was  used  until  1804,  when  the  House  removed 
to  another  apartment  and  remained  there  until  it  took  possession  in 
1808  of  its  beautiful,  classic  hall.  When  the  Capitol  rose  stately 


io8 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


and  capacious  after  the  British  conflagration,  both  Houses  of  Con- 
gress were  amply  accommodated  in  fine  halls. 

Man}'  exciting  and  important  parliamentary  battles  took  place  in 
these  old  halls  of  legislation.  The  momentous  political  questions  of 
the  times  — the  United  States  Bank,  the  Missouri  Compromise,  the 
protective  tariff,  the  Mexican  War,  the  annexation  of  Texas,  nullifica- 
tion, the  fugitive  slave  bill,  and  other  issues  as  grave  and  significant  — 
were  debated  by  Congress,  often  with  fierce  wrangles  which  aroused 
high  excitement  and  wrath.  There  was  malevolent  sectional  feeling, 
and  the  harmony  of  the  country  was  frequently  disturbed.  Indeed  it 
continually  required  the  greatest  efforts  of  the  wisest  men  to  preserve 
the  union  of  the  states,  and  it  was  then  that  the  grand  statesmen  and 
orators  — the  glory  of  American  legislation  — were  developed,  and 
they  held  the  Ship  of  State  firmly  and  steadily  on  its  course. 

The  Senate  for  a time  sat  with  closed  doors,  after  the  manner 
of  the  Continental  Congress,  but  as  there  was  decided  objection  to 
this  secrecy,  the  chamber  was  opened  to  the  public,  except  during 
executive  sessions.  The  House  of  Representatives  always  transacted 
its  business  openly.  In  the  early  sessions  the  Senators  discussed  the 
matters  before  them  in  a colloquial  way,  and  set  speeches  were  rarely 
made ; but  in  the  House  there  was  considerable  formal  speaking. 
Many  of  the  early  congressmen  wore  powdered  wigs,  and  retained 
the  European  fashions  in  dress  which  had  been  in  vogue  in  1700. 
Their  wigs  were  curled  and  powdered  every  day  with  great  care, 
and  the  barber  was  an  important  individual. 

It  was  thought  necessary  for  the  Speaker  of  the  House  to  have 
a symbol  of  authority,  and  the  sergeant-at-arms  was  directed  to 
procure  the  mace,  which  is  “a  bundle  of  ebony  rods,  fastened 
with  silver  bands,  having  at  its  top  a silver  globe  surmounted  by  a 
silver  eagle.”  When  the  mace  was  placed  on  the  Speaker’s  table 
it  signified  that  the  House  was  in  session  and  under  the  authority 
of  the  Speaker ; when  it  was  placed  under  the  table,  that  the  House 
was  in  committee  of  the  whole.  The  sergeant-at-arms  was  required 
to  bear  aloft  this  glittering  mace  when  executing  the  commands  of 
the  Speaker,  and  in  many  of  the  sessions  in  the  old  hall  he  was 
often  compelled  to  brandish  it  in  the  flushed  faces  of  angry  debaters, 
and  bid  them  to  “be  still.”  An’ attempt  was  made  to  abolish  the 
mace,  but  it  was  vigorously  resisted,  and  failed,  and  the  time-honored 
symbol  is  placed  to-day  at  the  Speaker’s  right  hand  whenever  the 
House  is  sitting. 

For  some  years  there  was  an  official  pen-maker  in  each  house, 


COMPENSATION  OF  MEMBERS. 


109 

whose  duty  it  was  to  mend  the  goose-quills  commonly  used.  Many 
of  the  congressmen  were  exceedingly  particular  as  to  the  “ degree 
of  flexibility  and  breadth  of  point”  of  their  quills,  and  while  some 
would’ use  nothing  but  “broad  nibs,”  others  required  the  finest  of 
“ fine  points,”  and  the  pen-makers  had  no  easy  task  in  trying  to  suit 
the  different  writers.  There  were  also  official  sealers,  who  were  en- 
trusted with  the  sealing  of  letters  and  packages  with  red  wax.  The 
“ stationery  ” used  in  both  houses  includedpen-knives,  scissors,  razors, 
pocket-books,  kid  gloves,  bottles  of  perfumery  and  bear’s  grease,  and 
numerous  other  little  articles  which  the  officials  would  purchase  “ by 
request  ” whenever  they  went  to  New  York  to  get  their  supplies.  For 
a number  of  sessions  “ an  innocent  beverage  called  swichell,  com- 
posed of  molasses,  ginger,  and  water,”  was  largel}^  consumed  by  the 
Representatives,  and  it  was  popularly  supposed  that  among  its  “ inno- 
cent ” ingredients  were  good  French  brandy  and  Jamaica  rum.  It 
was  always  charged  in  the  appropriation  for  stationery  under  the 
head  of  “ syrup.” 

Previous  to  1816  the  compensation  of  members  of  Congress  was 
six  dollars  per  day,  and  when  a bill  was  passed  in  that  year  to  raise  the 
compensation  to  $1,500  a session,  a sum  barely  sufficient  to  pay  the 
expenses  of  a decent  living  in  Washington,  it  aroused  great  excite- 
ment throughout  the  country.  In  an  ancient  record  it  is  stated  that 
“the  whole  nation  was  shaken  to  its  centre  ; parties  were  formed  and 
political  armies  marshaled,  and  the  patriotisrn  of  the  country  was' 
aroused  to  ebullient  indignation  at  the  bare  proposition  that  a member 
of  Congress  should  dare  to  take  thought  for  what  he  should  eat  and 
drink,  or  wherewithal  he  should  be  clothed,  and  the  liberties  of  the 
country  where  menaced  with  destruction  when  Congress  ventured  to 
demand  the  necessaries  of  life  in  payment  of  its  thankless  services.” 
So  great  was  the  feeling  that  Congress,  at  its  next  session,  repealed 
the  obnoxious  bill,  and  made  the  compensation  eight  dollars  per  day. 

It  was  customary  for  the  Representatives  to  wear  their  hats  in  the 
House  during  the  sessions,  and  it  was  not  until  1828  that  the  practice 
was  discontinued.  Ladies  were  excluded  from  the  galleries  for  a 
time,  but  at  last,  after  some  discussion  of  the  “ momentous  question,” 
they  were  admitted,  and  even  had  seats  reserved  for  them.  As  many 
congressmen  were  inveterate  snuff-takers,  urns  filled  with  “ old 
Scotch”  were  placed  in  each  house,  and  officials  were  charged  with 
the  duty  of  keeping  them  filled.  Even  to  this  day,  in  the  Senate 
Chamber  there  is. a large  box  containing  choice  snuff,  which  is  freely 
used  by  the  “ most  potent,  grave,  and  reverend  ” Senators. 


no 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Duelling  was  quite  common  in  the  early  days  of  Washington,  and 
the  Western  and  Southern  congressmen  usually  had  a case  of  duel- 
ling pistols  as  an  important  part  of  their  outfit.  In  the  museum  of  the 
Patent-Office  there  is  a case  of  pistols  owned  by  Andrew  Jackson 
while  he  was  in  Congress,  and  the  heavy,  cruel-looking  weapons 
bear  the  appearance  of  having  been  frequently  used.  The  “ code” 
was  a matter  of  general  conversation,  and  was  carefully  studied. 
Truculent  congressmen  were  prompt  to  resent  Insulting  words  spoken 
in  debate,  and  occasionally  pistols  would  be  drawn  in  the  House 
during  a session.  Then  the  sergeant-at-arms  would  seize  the  mace 
and  hasten  to  the  contestants,  hold  the  official  symbol  high  over  their 
heads,  and  command  them  to  take  their  seats  under  penalty  of  being 
arrested  for  contempt  of  the  House.  Henry  Clay  and  John  Randolph 
once  fought  a duel.  Randolph  was  always  abusive  in  his  remarks 
about  Clay,  and  in  debate  one  day  referred  to  him  in  a very  insulting- 
manner.  He  declined  to  apologize  for  his  words,  and  Clay  sent  him 
a challenge.  They  fought,  but  without  injury  to  either. 

There  were  many  exciting  scenes  in  the  House  in  those  “ good 
old  days.”  The  debates  were  full  of  virulence,  and  the  Speaker  fre- 
quently had  to  exert  his  authority  to  the  utmost  to  check  the  passion- 
ate members.  Those  who  have  looked  on  the  House  in  these  “ pip- 
ing times  of  peace,”  when  an  animated  debate  was  going  on  — when 
all  over  the  great  legislative  hall  there  was  a furious  din  and  babble ; 
members  rising  much  excited  and  uttering  sarcastic  and  exceedinglv 
impertinent  remarks,  and  apparently  confusion  worse  confounded  — 
can  form  some  idea  of  how  the  old  House  appeared  while  debating 
the  vexed  questions  in  the  turbulent  times  of  the  first  part  of  the  cen- 
tury, when  congressmen  had  a “ code  of  honor”  which  necessitated 
the  carrying  of  pistols,  and  when  there  were  numerous  “ crested  jav- 
hawks  of  the  mountains  ” threatening  violence  to  those  who  spoke  the 
truth  too  plainly. 

Many  able  men  gave  strength  and  character  to  the  national  legis- 
lation for  half  a century,  and  made  the  old  halls  of  Congress  mem- 
orable. John  Qiiincy  Adams,  who  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being  the 
only  son  of  a President  of  the  United  States  who  has  ever  occupied 
the  Presidential  chair  himself,  began  his  congressional  career  in  1803 
as  a Senator.  After  his  term  as  President  he  was  elected  to  the  House 
of  Representatives  in  1831,  and  became  one  of  its  leading  members. 
He  was  bold,  experienced,  and  learned,  but  exceedingly  frigid  in  lii« 


THE  DOTUNDA. 


1 12 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


manner,  and  was  never  on  terms  of  familiarity  with  any  member. 
Tlie  “old  man  eloquent,”  as  he  was  styled,  was  seldom  absent  from 
his  seat  in  the  House,  and  day  after  day  was  fully  prepared  to  discuss 
every  matter  that  came  up.  It  was  his  delight  to  start  a stormy  de- 
bate, and  then  he  would  throw  oft'  his  frigidity,  and  become  veiy  ex- 
cited. One  who  knew  him  well  wrote  as  follows  of  his  manner  of 
speaking  : “ He  rises  abruptly,  his  face  reddens,  and  in  a moment 
throwing  himself  into  the  attitude  of  a veteran  gladiator,  he  prepares 
for  the  attack  ; then  he  becomes  full  of  gesticulation  — his  body  sways 
to  and  fro  — self-command  seems  lost.  His  head  is  bent  forward  in 
his  earnestness  till  it  almost  touches  the  desk ; his  voice  frequently 
breaks,  but  he  pursues  his  subject  through  all  its  bearings.  Nothing 
daunts  him  — the  House  may  ring  with  the  cry  of  ‘ Order’ ; he  stands 
amid  the  tempest,  and  like  an  oak  that  knows  its  gnarled  and  knotted 
strength,  stretches  his  hand  forth  and  defies  the  blast.” 

It  is  related  that  when  he  was  canvassing  his  district  in  Massa- 
chusetts for  election  to  the  House,  his  cold,  apathetic  way  of  dealing 
with  infiuential  people  often  created  for  him  a great  deal  of  unpopu- 
larity. On  one  occasion  he  was  introduced  to  a farmer  of  consider- 
able political  infiuence,  who  cordially  shook  his  hand  and  said, 
“ Mr.  Adams,  I am  very  glad  to  see  you.  My  wife,  when  she  was 
a girl,  lived  in  your  father’s  family ; you  were  then  a little  boy,  and 
she  has  often  combed  your  head.”  “ Well,”  replied  Mr.  Adams  in 
a harsh  tone,  “ I suppose  she  combs  yours  now.” 

On  the  2 1st  of  February,  1S48,  Mr.  Adams  was  stricken  with 
apoplexy  while  sitting  in  his  seat  in  the  House.  He  was  removed  to 
the  Speaker’s  room,  and  in  about  an  hour  regained  consciousness  for 
a few  moments.  Looking  at  those  around  him,  he  said  in  a whisper, 
“This  is  the  last  of  earth,  but  I am  content.”  Then  he  closed  his 
eyes  and  never  spoke  again.  He  died  on  February  23. 

John  Randolph,  the  “ Lord  of  Roanoke,”  as  he  was  generally 
called,  was  a member  of  the  House  from  Virginia  before  Congress 
began  its  sessions  in  Washington.  He  served  until  1825,  and  then 
was  a Senator  for  two  years,  but  afterward  returned  to  the  House  for 
one  term.  It  was  his  boast  that  he  had  descended  from  Pocahontas. 
He  was  very  tall  and  thin,  and  had  a small,  round  head  and  sallow 
face.  His  eyes  were  black,  keen,  and  expressive,  his  nose  and  chin 
long  and  sharp,  and  his  hair,  which  was  brushed  back  and  tied  in  a 
queue,  was  as  black,  straight,  and  coarse  as  that  of  the  race  from 
which  he  claimed  descent.  On  his  daily  trips  to  the  Capitol  he 


GREAT  STATESMEN. 


113 

always  rode  a fine,  high-blooded  horse,  whose  sleek,  plump  body 
was  in  marked  contrast  to  his  own  leanness.  He  was  usually 
dressed  in  a long  surtout  coat  of  drab  English  broadcloth,  buckskin 
knee-breeches  and  top-boots. 

Randolph  always  attracted  great  attention  in  the  House,  and  it 
is  said  that  “ his  speeches  were  reported  more  fully  than  any  other 
member  of  Congress.”  His  powers  of  sarcasm  and  invective  were 
remarkable,  and  as  he  had  “ a tongue  with  a tang,”  his  wrath  was 
avoided  as  much  as  possible.  He  was  selfish,  exclusive,  contempt- 
uous ; he  had  no  popular  sympathies,  and  was  never  known  to  ap- 
prove of  anything  favored  by  other  men.  He  was  full  of  “ quarrel 
and  offence,”  and  spared  no  one  from  the  copious  shower  of  his  epi- 
thets. Garland,  his  biographer,  says,  “ He  was  like  an  Ishmaelite, 
his  hand  against  every  man,  and  every  man’s  hand  against  him.” 

In  1806,  Henry  Clay,  the  great  Kentuckian,  began  his  long  career 
in  Congress.  He  first  served  in  the  Senate  for  one  session  to  fill  a 
vacancy,  and  again  in  1809  he  became  a Senator  for  two  years.  He 
entered  the  House  of  Representatives  at  a special  session  on  the  4th 
of  November,  1811,  and  “ on  the  very  day  he  made  his  first  appear- 
ance on  the  fioor  he  was  elected  Speaker  by  a vote  of  75  out  of  128 
cast  — the  only  instance  on  record  in  which  the  confidence  of  Con- 
gress has  been  yielded  in  so  marked  a manner  to  any  person  on  his 
entrance  as  a member.”  He  retained  the  speakership  during  five 
Congresses,  and  was  a member  of  the  House  for  about  fourteen  years. 
He  was  elected  to  the  Senate  In  1831,  and  served  until  1842,  when 
he  resigned  his  seat,  and  retired  to  private  life  for  seven  years.  In 
1849  again  elected  as  Senator.  His  last  speech  in  the  Senate 

was  delivered  on  the  ist  of  December,  1851,  and  on  the  29th  of  June, 
1852,  he  died  in  the  National  Hotel  in  Washington.  His  large  ex- 
perience in  state  craft,  his  preeminent  intellectual  strength,  and  his 
wonderful  gift  as  a popular  orator,  admirably  fitted  him  to  play  an 
important  part  in  the  legislative  arena.  He  was  of  commanding 
height,  and  had  a pleasant  face  lighted  by  sparkling  gray  eyes.  He 
was  courtly  in  manner,  and  thoroughly  understood  tlie  difficult  art  of 
being  easy  at  all  times  and  in  all  places.  When  he  spoke,  a winning 
smile  would  give  effect  to  his  words.  Few  orators  of  his  day  could 
so  enchant  an  audience,  and  his  speeches  in  Congress  and  on  the 
platform  were  listened  to  with  deep  interest,  and  always  made  a 
marked  impression.  He  was  the  recognized  leader  of  the  Whig 
party,  and  ruled  its  affairs  with  an  iron  hand. 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


114 

Clay  was  sincere  and  liberal,  and  ardent  in  his  devotion  to  the 
things  he  considered  right  and  just.  He  was  the  champion  of  the 
system  of  protection  to  American  industry,  and  made  many  powerful 
speeches  and  assiduously  labored  for  it.  Sometimes  for  weeks  when 
he  was  in  the  Senate  he  would  take  very  little  part  in  the  proceedings, 
but  would  sit  quiet  in  his  seat,  day  after  day,  eating  candy  and  taking 
snuff,  and  jocosely  commenting  in  a low  tone  on  the  speeches  of 
others.  He  relished  a good  joke,  and  nothing  pleased  him  better  than 
a bright  repartee,  even  if  it  was  against  himself.  When  he  was  ready 
to  engage  in  debate  he  would  spring  to  his  feet  and  hold  his  auditors 
fascinated  by  his  eloquent  language  and  graceful  delivery. 

Daniel  Webster  entered  the  House  of  Representatives  in  1813,  as 
a Representative  from  New  Hampshire,  his  native  state,  and  served 
until  1817.  About  this  time  he  took  up  his  residence  in  Boston,  and 
thereafter  Massachusetts  claimed  him  as  her  foremost  orator  and 
statesman.  He  was  elected  to  the  House  in  1823,  and  to  the  Senate 
in  1827.  He  continued  as  a Senator  until  1841,  and  then  went  into 
President  Harrison’s  Cabinet  as  Secretary  of  State,  which  position  he 
held  until  May  9,  1843.  In  1845  he  was  again  chosen  to  the 
Senate,  serving  until  1850.  He  had  a massive  form,  and  his  large, 
finely  developed  head  was  covered  with  hair  “ as  black  as  the 
raven’s  wing.”  His  face  was  full  of  character,  and  his  eyes  were 
deep  set,  large,  and  melancholy  in  expression.  He  was  always 
carefully  dressed,  and,  as  a writer  has  said,  “ in  the  old  Whig  colors 
of  blue  and  buff.”  For  years  he  was  a leader  in  the  great  debates, 
and  his  speeches  gave  him  national  fame  and  influence.  Visitors 
to  the  Senate  Chamber  would  eagerly  watch  his  movements,  and  lis- 
ten to  his  words  with  rapt  interest.  Whenever  it  was  announced 
that  he  intended  to  speak  upon  any  question  the  crowd  to  hear  him 
would  fill  every  part  of  the  chamber,  and  hundreds  would  be  unable 
to  gain  admission.  His  speeches  were  always  prepared  with  great 
care,  and  he  would  never  permit  them  to  be  published  until  he  had 
thoroughly  revised  them.  Many  of  his  eloquent  sentences  were  com- 
posed after  days  and  even  weeks  of  study.  He  had  a good  deal  of 
humor,  which  now  and  then  would  be  displayed  in  the  Senate, 
although  generally  he  was  very  dignified  while  engaged  in  his  legis- 
lative duties. 

Quite  often  in  his  private  hours  he  would  be  gloomy  and  despond- 
ent about  his  political  career.  At  one  time  when  he  was  feeling  de- 
pressed a friend  said  to  him  that  he  should  not  feel  so,  as  his  fame 
was  made. 


GREAT  STATESMEN. 


1 15 


“Fame,”  replied  Mr.  Webster;  “and 
much  for  fame  ! Let  me  give  you  a striking 
illustration  of  this  fact.'  I was  traveling  in  a railroad  car  a short  time 
ago,  and  it  so  happened  that  I was  located  by  the  side  of  a very  old 
man.  I soon  found  that  this  old  man  was  from  my  native  town  in 
New  Hampshire.  I asked  him  if  he  was  acquainted  with  the  Webster 
family  up  there.  He  answered  that  he  and  old  Mr.  Webster,  in  his 
life-time,  were  great  friends.  He  then  went  on  to  speak  of  the  chil- 
dren. He  said  Ezekiel  was  the  most  eminent  lawyer  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, and  his  sisters,  calling  each  by  her  Christian  name,  were  mar- 
ried to  most  excellent  men.  I then  inquired  if  there  was  not  another 
member  of  the  family.  He  said  he  thought  not.  Was  there  not 


THE  SENATE  RECEPTION-ROOM. 


ii6 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


one,  I asked  him,  by  the  name  of  Daniel  ? Here  the  old  man  put  on 
his  thinking-cap  for  a few  moments,  and  then  replied : ‘ O,  I recol- 
lect now.  There  was  one  by  the  name  of  Daniel,  but  he  went  down 
to  Boston,  and  I have  not  heard  of  him  since.’” 

Thomas  Hart  Benton,  of  Missouri,  entered  the  Senate  in  1821, 
and  served  for  twenty-nine  years  and  seven  months  continuously  — 
the  longest  continuous  service  ever  given.  He  was  not  a pleasing 
speaker,  being  noted  for  long,  bombastic  speeches,  delivered  in  a 
loud,  imperious  manner.  In  debate  he  was  passionate,  and  would 
often  “launch  thunderbolts  of  hatred,  jealousy,  and  rage”  at  the 
heads  of  those  who  opposed  him.  His  stalwart  body  was  always  at- 
tired in  a long,  double-breasted  frock-coat  of  antique  fashion,  and  as 
he  walked  to  and  fro  on  the  floor  of  the  Senate,  he  would  assume  a 
martial  bearing,  and  his  eyes  would  flash  with  arrogance.  Although 
a man  of  marked  ability,  his  displeasing  manner  and  lack  of  tact  and 
grace  in  speech  prevented  him  from  obtaining  popularity. 

One  of  the  group  of  great  statesmen  was  John  C.  Calhoun,  of 
South  Carolina,  who  began  his  congressional  career  in  1811,  as  a 
member  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  serving  for  six  years  in  that 
body.  He  was  elected  Vice-President  in  1825,  when  John  Quincy 
Adams  was  President,  and  in  1831  went  into  the  Senate,  where  he 
remained  for  twelve  years.  He  took  a leading  position,  and  was 
fully  the  peer  of  the  remarkable  men  who  composed  the  Senate  of  his 
day.  In  1843  he  became  Secretary  of  State,  but  returned  to  the 
Senate  in  1845,  and  served  until  his  death  in  1850.  He  was  tall  and 
slender,  and  had  a sombre  face,  on  which  a smile  was  rarely  seen. 
As  an  orator  he  was  logical  and  forcible,  and  in  all  the  prominent 
debates  his  voice  was  often  heard.  Very  ambitious,  with  his 
“ whole  mind  and  soul  given  to  politics,”  he  yet  would  never  descend 
to  trickery  or  baseness  to  accomplish  his  purpose,  and  he  has  gone 
into  history  as  one  of  the  purest  of  public  men. 

Martin  Van  Buren,  who  was  President  in  1837,  was  for  some  time 
in  the  Senate.  He  was  a wily  politician  — shrewd,  capable,  and 
ingenious.  He  was  rather  under  medium  height,  and  had  a high 
forehead  and  comely  features.  He  was  exceedingly  courteous,  and 
made  as  much  study  of  “deportment”  as  Mr.  Turveydrop,  and  he 
is  said  to  have  diligently  practiced  all  his  graceful  attitudes  before  a 
large  mirror  in  his  room. 

Then  there  were  Silas  Wright,  the  influential  Democrat,  who  in- 
variably carried  conviction  by  his  sound  logic ; Henry  A.  Wise,  who 


SOUTHERN  LOBBY 


PLAN  OF  THE  SENATE  CHAMBER. 


Ii8 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


could  startle  the  House  by  a perfect  hurricane  of  passionate  words ; 
Edward  Everett,  noted  for  his  captivating  speech  and  great  learning ; 
Charles  Sumner,  polished  and  graceful  as  an  orator,  sincere  and  saga- 
cious as  a statesman  ; John  Forsyth,  a superb  debater,  and  remarkable 
for  his  accomplishments;  Tristam  Burges,  called  “the  man  of  the 
iron  heart” — strong  and  brave,  whose  keen  wit  and  eloquent  tongue 
made  even  the  “ Lord  of  Roanoke”  tremble;  David  Crockett,  from 
the  mountains  of  Tennessee,  always  ready  with  his  rifle  to  shoot  for 
prizes,  and  noted  for  quaint,  common-sense  speeches ; George  Mc- 
Duffie, Thomas  Corwin,  Lewis  Cass,  and  innumerable  others  of  great 
ability  and  marked  individuality. 

The  present  hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives  was  occupied  on 
the  i6th  of  December,  1857,  and  the  present  Senate  Chamber  on  the 
4th  of  January,  1859. 

The  north  wing  of  the  Capitol  is  known  as  the  Senate  extension. 
The  principal  story  contains  the  Senate  Chamber,  the  Senate  post- 
office,  the  office  of  the  sergeant-at-arms,  the  reception-room,  the 
Senators’  withdrawing-room,  the  rooms  of  the  President  and  Vice- 
President  of  tlie  United  States,  the  office  of  the  secretary  of  the  Senate, 
and  the  offices  of  the  Senate  clerks  and  official  reporters.  Around 
the  Senate  Chamber  is  a grand  corridor  adorned  with  marble  columns 
and  pilasters.  The  wing  is  constructed  entirely  of  marble  and  iron, 
and  is  very  magnificent. 

At  the  back  of  the  Senate  Chamber  is  the  Senators’  lobby,  and 
opening  from  it  is  the  withdrawing-room,  or,  as  it  is  generally  called, 
“ the  marble  room,”  as  it  is  made  entirely  of  marble.  Senators  use 
it  for  consultation.  The  President’s  room  is  on  one  side  of  it,  and 
the  Vice-President’s  room  on  the  other.  Medallion  portraits  of  Wash- 
ington and  the  members  of  his  first  Cabinet  cover  the  walls  of  the 
President’s  room,  and  it  is  sumptuously  decorated.  Here  the  Presi- 
dent coines  on  the  last  day  of  the  session  of  Congress,  to  sign  the  bills 
passed  by  both  houses.  When  the  Senate  is  not  sitting  the  various 
rooms  can  be  inspected,  and  the  floor  of  the  Senate  Chamber  is  also 
open  to  the  public. 

The  Senate  Chamber  is  one  hundred  and  twelve  feet  in  length, 
eighty-two  feet  in  width,  and  thirty  feet  high.  The  ceiling  is  com- 
posed of  large  iron  girders  and  cross-pieces,  in  which  are  panels  of 
glass  containing  painted  emblems  representing  the  Union,  Progress, 
tlie  Army  and  Navy,  and  the  Mechanical  Arts.  At  night  hundreds 


THE  SENATE  CHAMBER. 


of  gas-jets,  arranged  back  of  the  ceiling,  throw  a flood  of  softened 
light  into  all  portions  of  the  chamber.  The  walls  are  painted  in  ex- 
quisite tints  and  decorated  in  gold,  and  have  buff  panels.  Arranged 
on  the  floor  in  concentric  semicircles  are  mahogany  desks  and  chairs 
for  the  Senators.  On  a dais  is  the  chair  of  the  President  of  the  Senate, 
and  in  front  of  it  is  a broad  mahogany  desk.  To  the  right  of  the 
president’s  chair  is  the  chair  of  the  sergeant-at-arms,  and  to  the  left 
that  of  the  assistant  door-keeper.  In  front  of  the  president’s  desk  are 
the  desks  of  the  Senate  clerks  and  the  tables  of  the  official  reporters. 
Galleries  with  seats  for  i,ooo  persons  extend  around  the  chamber. 
Above  the  president’s  chair  is  a gallery  for  reporters  of  the  press,  and 


THE  president’s  ROOM. 


120  PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 

directly  opposite  is  one  for  the  diplomatic  corps.  The  others  are  for 
the  public. 

Two  grand  staircases  of  highly  polished  marble  lead  to  the  Sen- 
ate galleries  from  the  public  corridor.  The  eastern  staircase  is  con- 
structed of  variegated  Tennessee  marble,  with  white  marble  steps. 
A stained  glass  skylight  set  in  a paneled  iron  frame  is  placed  over- 
head. From  the  main  floor  a broad  flight  of  sixteen  steps  leads  to 
the  first  landing ; thence  the  ascent  is  by  a double  flight  of  eighteen 
steps.  In  a niche  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase  is  a marble  statue  of 
Benjamin  Franklin,  by  Hiram  Powers,  executed  at  a cost  of  $10,000. 
On  the  wall  above  the  first  landing  is  a large  painting  of  “ Perry V 
Victory  on  Lake  Erie,”  Sept.  10,  1813.  It  was  painted  b}'  W.  H. 
Powell,  and  cost  $25,000.  Commodore  Perry  is  represented  in  a 
boat,  making  the  perilous  transfer  of  the  flag  from  the  disabled  “ Law- 
rence ” to  the  “ Niagara,”  during  a tremendous  cannonading. 

The  western  staircase  is  constructed  entirely  of  white  marble,  and 
is  similar  in  design  to  the  eastern.  At  the  foot  is  a marble  statue  of 
John  Hancock,  by  Horatio  Stone,  which  cost  $5,550.  Over  the  main 
landing  is  a painting  of  “ The  Storming  of  Chapultepec”  by  Gen- 
eral Scott’s  troops.  Sept.  13,  1847.  It  was  painted  by  James  Walker, 
from  sketches  taken  on  the  battle-field,  the  artist  receiving  $6,000  for 
the  work.  The  staircases,  with  their  massive  pillars  and  balustrades, 
are  very  beautiful. 

The  south  wing  of  the  Capitol,  or  the  House  extension,  is  similar 
in  design  and  construction  to  the  Senate  extension.  It  has  a grand 
corridor  or  lobby,  and  a vestibule  with  fluted  columns.  In  the  princi- 
pal story  is  the  great  hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  sur- 
rounding it  are  the  Speaker’s  room,  the  retiring-room,  the  office  of 
the  sergeant-at-arms,  the  offices  of  the  House  clerks,  and  committee- 
rooms.  The  retiring-room  is  large  and  richly  furnished,  and  the 
other  rooms  are  of  good  size  and  elegant  in  their  ornamentation  and 
furniture.  Opening  from  the  rear  of  the  legislative  hall  is  the  mem- 
bers’ lobby,  which  is  finely  decorated  and  hung  with  portraits  of  past 
Spe  akers  of  the  House. 

The  hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
finest  legislative  halls  in  the  world.  It  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine 
feet  in  length,  ninety-three  feet  in  width,  and  thirty-six  feet  high.  The 
chairs  and  desks  of  the  Representatives  and  Delegates  are  arranged 
on  the  floor  in  concentric  semicircles.  The  chair  of  the  Speaker  is- 


THE  HALL  OF  THE  HOUSE. 


121 


placed  on  a platform  three  feet  from  the  floor,  and  in  front  of  it  is  a 
large  marble  table,  and  in  front  of  that  are  marble  desks  for  the  House 
clerks  and  official  reporters.  At  the  right  of  the  Speaker’s  chair  is  a 
stand  on  which  the  mace  is  placed  when  the  House  is  in  session, 
and  close  by  is  the  chair  of  the  sergeant-at-arms ; on  the  left  is  the 
chair  of  the  assistant  door-keeper.  A portrait  of  Washington,  by 
Vanderlyn,  hangs  on  one  side  of  the  Speaker’s  chair,  and  a portrait 
of  Lafayette,  by  Ary  Sheffer,  on  the  other.  Two  paintings  by  Bier- 
stadt,  for  which  he  received  $20,000,  are  set  in  panels  near  the  south 
doors.  They  represent  the  “ Settlement  of  California,”  and  the  “ Dis- 
covery of  the  Hudson  River.”  A fresco  by  Brumidi,  of  “Washington 
at  Yorktown,”  adorns  a panel.  Over  the  main  entrance  door  is  a large 
clock,  supported  by  figures  of  an  Indian  and  a pioneer,  and  sur- 
mounted by  an  eagle.  The  ceiling  is  similar  in  construction  to  that 
in  the  Senate  Chamber.  It  is  profusely  gilded  and  ornamented,  and 
the  panels  are  filled  with  panes  of  painted  glass  bearing  the  arms  of 
the  states  and  other  emblems.  Back  of  the  ceiling  are  1,500  gas-jets, 
which  at  night  illuminate  the  hall  in  a very  brilliant  manner.  The 
galleries  will  seat  nearly  two  thousand  people,  and  they  are  often  filled 
during  the  progress  of  an  important  debate.  The  press  gallery,  back 
of  the  Speaker’s  chair,  has  accommodation  for  sixty  reporters.  Two 
galleries  are  reserved  for  the  diplomatic  corps  and  the  leading  officials 
of  the  government ; the  others  are  open  to  the  public. 

The  eastern  and  western  grand  staircases,  leading  from  the  corri- 
dcM’  of  the  House  to  the  galleries,  are  exactly  like  those  in  the  Senate 
extension.  At  the  foot  of  the  eastern  staircase  is  a marble  statue  of 
Thomas  Jefferson,  by  Hiram  Powers,  executed  in  Italy  at  a cost  of 
$10,000.  On  the  wall  of  the  landing  is  Francis  B.  Carpenter’s 
famous  painting  of  “ President  Lincoln  signing  the  Proclamation  of 
Emancipation,”  which  was  purchased  of  the  artist  for  $25,000,  by 
Mrs.  Mary  Elizabeth  Thompson,  and  presented  to  the  United  States 
in  1878.  While  making  studies  for  the  work  Mr.  Carpenter  resided 
in  the  White  House  as  the  guest  of  President  Lincoln. 

At  the  foot  of  the  western  staircase  is  a bronze  bust  of  a friendly 
chief  of  the  Chippewa  Indians,  called  Bee-She-Kee,  the  Buffalo.  The 
wall  of  the  landing  is  embellished  with  an  immense  chromo-silica,  by 
Emanuel  Leutze,  representing  an  emigrant  train  crossing  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  It  is  bold  in  drawing  and  brilliant  in  color.  Leutze  re- 
ceived $20,000  for  the  work. 


HALL  OF  THE  HOUSE  OF  REPRESENTATIVES. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


COMGRESS  CONTINUED  — MANNER  OF  LEGISLATION  IN  BOTH  HOUSES  — THE 
ENORMOUS  COST  OF  A SESSION  — HOW  MILLIONS  ARE  SPENT  — SENATORIAL 
SKETCHES— A GLANCE  AT  THE  HOUSE  OF  REPRESENTATIVES  — CLAIMANTS 
AND  LOBBYISTS —THE  CONGRESSIONAL  RECORD  — THE  DISTRIBUTION  OF 
PUBLIC  DOCUMENTS. 

The  Congress  of  the  United  States  is  the  supreme  legislative 
body,  and  has  full  authority  under  the  Constitution  to  make 
all  laws  “ which  shall  be  necessary  and  proper  ” for  carrying 
on  the  national  government.  It  is  composed  of  seventy-six 
Senators  (two  from  each  state),  and  three  hundred  and  twenty-five 
Representatives,  apportioned  to  the  various  states  according  to  popu- 
lation. There  are  also  eight  Delegates  who  have  seats  in  the  House 
of  Representatives  and  represent  the  territories,  but  who  have  no 
vote.  The  legislative  period  of  each  Congress  extends  through  two 
years,  and  is  divided  into  two  regular  sessions.  The  first  session  is 
termed  “ the  long  session,”  as  it  begins  in  December  and  continues 
until  June  or  July,  or  even  later,  at  the  option  of  Congress.  The 
second  session,  termed  “ the  short  session,”  begins  in  December  and 
ends  at  noon  on  the  3d  of  March.  Congress  assembles  annually  on 
the  first  Monday  in  December.  Senators  are  chosen  by  the  legisla- 
tures of  the  states  for  a term  of  six  years,  and  Representatives  are 
elected  by  the  people  for  a term  of  two  years.  Each  member  of  Con- 
gress receives  a compensation  of  $5,000  per  year,  and  is  also  allowed 
mileage  at  the  rate  of  twenty  cents  per  mile,  with  $125  annually  for 
newspapers  and  stationery.  The  President  tem;pore  of  the  Sen- 
ate and  the  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives  have  an  addi- 
tional compensation  of  $3,000  per  year  each. 


124 


FICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


As  a matter  of  reference,  the  apportionment  of  Representatives  in 
Congress  is  herewith  given  : Alabama  has  eight  Representatives ; 

Arkansas,  five ; California,  six ; Colorado,  one ; Connecticut,  four ; 
Delaware,  one  ; Florida,  two  ; Georgia,  ten  ; Illinois,  tw'^enty  ; In- 
diana, thirteen  ; Iowa,  eleven  ; Kansas,  seven  ; Kentucky,  eleven  ; 
Louisiana,  six  ; Maine,  four  ; Maryland,  six  ; Massachusetts,  twelve  ; 
Michigan,  eleven ; Minnesota,  five  ; Mississippi,  seven  ; Missouri, 
fourteen  ; Nebraska,  three  ; Nevada,  one  ; New  Hampshire,  two  ; 
New  Jersey,  seven;  New  York,  thirty-four;  North  Carolina,  nine; 
Ohio,  twenty-one  ; Oregon,  one  ; Pennsylvania,  twenty-eight;  Rhode 
Island,  two  ; South  Carolina,  seven  ; Tennessee,  ten  ; Texas,  eleven  ; 
Vermont,  two;  Virginia,  ten  ; West  Virginia,  four  ; Wisconsin,  nine. 

The  two  Houses  of  Congress  exercise  ’oiat  legislation,  but  all  bills 
to  raise  revenue  for  the  government  must  originate  in  the  House  of 
Representatives.  The  Vice-President  of  the  United  States  acts  as 
President  of  the  Senate,  but  has  no  vote  unless  the  Senate  is  equally 
divided  ; then  he  casts  the  deciding  vote.  The  Senate  elects  a presi- 
dent tempore,  who,  in  the  absence  of  the  Vice-President,  presides 
over  its  sessions.  The  House  elects  a Speaker  to  preside.  All  the 
officials  of  the  Senate  and  House  serve  two  years,  or  during  the  leg- 
islative period  of  each  Congress. 

The  bills  introduced  in  either'  house  are  first  referred  to  pi'oper 
committees  ; they  are  printed  and  placed  on  the  files  of  the  committees. 
Afterward,  when  any  committee  reports  a bill  for  action,  it  is  read  by 
title  and  then  is  assigned  a place  on  a calendar  until  it  is  called  up  for 
discussion  in  what  is  known  as  the  “ committee  of  the  whole,”  which 
is  constituted  of  all  the  members  of  either  house  acting  as  a committee, 
and  not  as  a house.  When  the  Senate,  or  House,  goes  into  com- 
mittee of  the  whole,  the  presiding  officer  calls  a member  to  the  chair 
to  preside.  If  a bill  is  adopted  by  the  committee  of  the  whole  it  is 
reported  and  ordered  engrossed.  After  another  reading  it  is  debated, 
and  then  is  voted  upon,  and  if  it  receives  a majority  of  all  the  votes 
cast,  it  is  declared  adopted,  and  is  sent  to  the  other  house,  where  it  is 
referred  to  the  committee  of  the  whole.  If  the  second  house  adopts 
the  bill  it  is  transmitted  to  the  President  of  the  United  States  for  his 
approval.  If  he  signs  the  bill  it  becomes  a law,  and  if  he  vetoes  the 
bill  it  may  still  become  a law  if  both  houses  pass  it  again,  over  the 
veto,  by  a two-thirds  vote.  If  the  bill  is  retained  by  the  President  for 
ten  days  after  Congress  has  presented  it  to  him,  it  becomes  a law 
without  his  signature. 


EXPENSES  OF  THE  SENATE. 


125 


A statement  of  the  cost  of  the  sessions  of  Congress  may  be  inter- 
esting and  very  astonishing  to  many  readers.  As  the  national  legis- 
lature is  very  expensive,  the  details  of  its  principal  expenditures  can 
be  properly  given  for  the  information  of  those  who  pay  the  bills  — 
the  people  of  the  United  States.  In  the  first  place,  the  annual  com- 
pensation and  mileage  of  the  members  amount  to  $2,188,624.  "^^e 

Senators  receive  as  compensation  $380,000,  and  the  Representatives 
and  Delegates,  $1,665,000.  There  is  appropriated  for  mileage  the 
sum  of  $143,624.  ^ 

The  miscellaneous  expenses  of  the  Senate  are  very  large.  The 
secretary  of  the  Senate  has  a salary  of  $4,896  per  year,  and  is  also 
allowed  $1,200  for  the  hire  of  a horse  and  wagon.  The  chief  clerk 
and  the  financial  clerk  have  $3,000  each.  Then  there  are  five  other 
clerks  who  have  $2,592  each,  six  clerks  who  have  $2,220  each,  and 
five  more  clerks  who  have  $2,100  each.  The  librarian  has  $2,220, 
and  the  assistant  librarian,  $1,440.  The  keeper  of  the  stationery  has 
$2,102,  and  two  assistant  keepers,  $1,800  and  $1,000.  For  making 
a five  minutes’  prayer  each  day  in  the  Senate  at  the  opening  of  the 
session,  the  chaplain  has  a salary  of  $900.  The  sergeant-at-arms 
and  door-keeper  has  $4,320,  and  his  clerk,  $2,000.  The  assistant 
door-keeper  and  the  acting  assistant  door-keeper  have  $2,592  each, 
and  three  other  door-keepers,  $1,800  each.  The  principal  book- 
keeper has  $4,320,  and  two  assistant  book-keepers,  $2,592  each. 
For  reporting  the  proceedings  of  the  Senate  in  short  hand,  the  four 
official  reporters  are  paid  $6,250  each.  The  Senate  postmaster  has 
$2,250,  his  assistant,  $2,088,  and  five  mail-carriers,  $1,200  each. 

Nor  is  this  all.  The  secretary  to  the  President  of  the  Senate  has 
a salary  of  $2,102,  and  the  messenger  to  the  President’s  room,  $1,440. 
There  are  thirty-six  messengers,  for  various  purposes,  whose  aggre- 
gate salaries  amount  to  $50,000  per  year ; and  there  are  eighteen 
pages  who  receive  $2.50  per  day  each  during  the  session.  The 
numerous  clerks  to  committees  are  paid,  some  $6  per  day,  and  others 
from  $2,220  to  $2,500  per  year.  The  other  expenses  of  the  Senate 
are  considerable,  and  the  total  yearly  expenditure  is  about  $370,000, 
exclusive  of  the  compensation  and  mileage  of  Senators. 

The  House  of  Representatives,  being  a much  larger  body  than  the 
Senate,  has  expenses  which  swell  into  an  enormous  aggregate.  In 
addition  to  the  great  sum  of  money  annually  paid  as  compensation  to 
the  Representatives  and  Delegates,  the  salaries  of  the  House  officials 
and  the  other  expenses  will  amount  to  nearly  $550,000. 


126 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


The  chief  clerk  of  the  House  has  a salary  of  $4,500.  To  assist 
him  there  are  live  clerks  with  salaries  of  $3,000,  one  clerk  with  $2,- 
500,  and  three  clerks  with  $2,240.  These  clerks  have  seven  assist- 
ants who  are  paid  $2,000  each,  and  three  assistants  who  are  paid 
$1,440  each.  In  addition  there  are  five  book-keepers  who  have  sal- 
aries of  $1,600.  The  private  secretary  of  the  Speaker  has  $1,800, 
the  Speaker’s  clerk  $1,600,  and  the  clerk  to  the  Speaker’s  ta’ole  $1,- 
400.  The  principal  door-keeper  has  $2,500,  with  $500  allowed  him 
for  horse  hire,  and  the  two  assistant  door-keepers  have  $2,000  each. 
Forty  messengers,  some  of  whom  act  as  door-keepers,  receive  salaries 
aggregating  $50,000,  There  are  thirty-two  clerks  to  committees  who 
are  paid  $6  per  day  each,  and  numerous  committee  clerks  who  have 
salaries  from  $2,000  to  $2,500.  Thirty-one  pages  are  employed  at 
$2.50  per  day  each,  and  in  the  short  session  they  also  receive  a gra- 
tuity of  $75  each.  There  is  an  “ upholsterer  and  locksmith,”  whose 
duty  it  is  to  keep  the  chairs  and  desks  of  the  Representatives  in  good 
order,  and  for  this  work  he  is  paid  $1,440  per  }"ear. 

The  sergeant-at-arms,  who  disburses  the  funds  of  the  House,  has 
a salaried  force  equal  to  that  of  some  national  banks.  His  salary  is 
$4,000,  and  $500  are  allowed  him  for  a horse  and  wagon,  and  $300 
for  postage-stamps.  He  has  a deputy  at  $2,000,  a cashier  at  $3,000, 
a paying-teller  at  $2,000,  a book-keeper  at  $1,800,  a messenger  at 
$1,200,  a page  at  $60  per  month,  and  a laborer  at  $660  per  year. 
His  office  is  furnished  in  an  elegant  and  costly  manner. 

There  are  five  official  short-hand  reporters  who  have  salaries  of 
$5,000,  and  two  stenographers  for  committees,  who  also  receive  $5,000 
each.  The  chaplain  has  $900,  the  postmaster,  $2,500,  and  the  assist- 
ant postmaster,  $2,000.  In  the  House  post-office  there  are  nine 
clerks  with  salaries  of  $1,200,  and  two  clerks  with  $800.  An  em- 
ploy6  known  as  “the  conductor  of  the  elevator”  has  a salary  of 
$1,200.  The  stationery  and  newspapers  for  the  House  cost  $47,500 
per  year  ; $10,000  are  paid  for  repairs  to  the  furniture,  the  expenses  of 
special  committees  are  $50,000,  and  contingent  expenses  many  more 
thousands.  If  the  amount  of  the  compensation  and  mileage  of  the 
members  is  added  to  the  amount  expended  for  miscellaneous  expenses, 
it  will  be  found  that  the  aggregate  yearly  cost  of  the  House  is  more 
than  $2,300,000. 

Each  annual  session  of  Congress  costs  the  country  all  of  three 
millions  of  dollars,  and  if  this  vast  sum  is  divided  by  the  number  of 


< 

h4 

C. 


OF  THE  HALL  OF  THE  HOUSE  OF  REPRESENTATIVES. 


128 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


days  or  weeks  of  the  session  it  will  give  a really  startling  result.  For 
instance,  the  short  session,  deducting  the  usual  holiday  recess,  is  of 
less  than  twelve  weeks’  duration.  If  the  session  is  estimated  at  twelve 
weeks  the  cost  of  it  will  be  $250,000  per  week,  and  if  Congress  sits 
six  days  in  each  week,  which  is  a rare  occurrence,  very  nearly  $42- 
000  per  day.  The  long  session  will  cost  about  one-half  as  much  per 
day  and  week  as  the  other. 

The  daily  sessions  of  Congress  begin  at  noon  and  continue  until 
four  or  five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  During  the  first  weeks  of  the 
annual  meeting  both  houses  have  short  sittings,  as  there  is  very  little 
that  can  be  done  until  the  committees  get  in  working  order,  and  report 
bills  for  action.  The  last  weeks  are  crowded  with  business,  and  it 
is  generally  necessary  to  hold  night-sessions.  Much  of  the  work  of 
legislation  is  done  in  the  committee-rooms,  and  some  of  the  commit- 
tees are  tasked  to  the  utmost  with  a multiplicity  of  affairs,  while  others 
seldom  have  a meeting.  Each  house  is  opened  daily  with  prayer  by 
the  chaplain,  and  after  the  journal  of  the  previous  day’s  proceedings 
has  been  read,  petitions  and  bills  are  introduced  and  referred  to  appro- 
priate committees  during  what  is  called  “the  morning  hour.”  Vari- 
ous reports  are  also  made  by  committees,  with  accompanying  bills, 
which  are  usually  placed  on  a calendar  for  consideration  in  regular 
order.  At  the  expiration  of  the  morning  hour,  bills  are  taken  from 
one  or  more  of  the  calendars  and  considered  until  the  adjournment. 
Whenever  Congress  sits  on  Saturday , it  is  generally  “ for  debate  only.” 
The  appropriation  bills,  or  bills  providing  money  for  the  support  of 
the  government  departments,  are  usually  taken  up  near  the  end  of  the 
session,  and  often  occasion  very  lively  debates.  There  is  always  a 
strong  political  feeling  in  both  houses,  and  much  of  the  legislation  is 
tinged  with  it. 

Whenever  the  Senate  receives  a communication  from  the  President 
of  the  United  States,  it  goes  into  what  is  called  “ executive  session” 
to  discuss  it.  The  galleries  and  floor  are  cleared  of  spectators  and 
reporters,  the  doors  are  locked,  and  the  Senators  then  feel  at  liberty 
to  express  themselves  freely  upon  the  President’s  communication, 
which  is  usually  in  reference  to  appointments  which  are  presented  for 
confirmation  by  the  Senate. 

The  Senate  is  quite  a dignified  body,  and  generally  adheres  to 
certain  rules  of  decorum.  It  is  rarely  that  there  is  a very  noisy  de- 
bate in  this  branch  of  Congress.  In  fact,  the  proceedings  during  the 


SENATORIAL  HUMOR. 


129 


greater  part  of  a session  might  be  characterized  as  “ dull.”  Now  and 
then  a matter  will  come  up  which  will  arouse  party  feeling,  or  per- 
haps sectional  prejudice,  and  then  earnest  words  will  be  spoken,  and 
some  flushed  faces  will  be  seen.  Occasionally  rather  impertinent  re- 
marks are  made.  One  Senator,  during  a debate,  said  of  another 
whose  speech  had  proved  very  irritating,  that  “ It  is  generally  believed 

tbe  gentleman  from rests  his  mind  while  talking  ” ; to  which 

saucy  remark  the  Senator  alluded  to  replied,  “ The  gentleman  from 

reminds  me  of  that  sterile  tract  of  land  in  Virginia  which  was 

said  to  be  poor  by  nature  and  exhausted  by  cultivation.”  But  these 
“little  pleasantries”  are  to  be  expected  during  the  conflicts  of  the  pow- 
erful opposing  interests  represented  in  the  Senate. 

The  Senators  have  the  right  to  speak  as  long  as  they  please  on 
most  matters  under  consideration,  and  although  long  speeches  are  not 
the  rule,  occasionally  one  will  be  delivered  of  very  great  length.  If 
the  matter  is  not  particularly  interesting,  or  the  speaker  gifted  as  an 
orator,  the  Senators  will  retire  from  the  chamber,  or  busy  themselves 
at  their  desks  over  their  correspondence  or  the  newspapers,  and  the 
visitors  in  the  galleries  will  gradually  depart  until  few  or  none  remain. 
But  the  Senator  who  has  the  floor  goes  on  entirely  regardless  of  the 
lack  of  listeners,  as  in  most  cases  the  speech  is  intended  for  the  coun- 
try, and  an  arrangement  has  been  made  with  the  correspondents  of 
the  press  to  give  it  a wide  circulation. 

One  day  during  a debate  a Senator  who  was  known  to  have 
aspirations  for  the  Presidency  was  addressing  the  Senate,  and  in  the 
course  of  his  remarks  shouted  in  an  impressive  manner,  “ I would 
rather  be  right  than  be  President ! ” To  this  remark  a Senator  quickly 

retorted,  “The  Senator  from will  never  be  either!”  This 

retort  was  so  applicable  that  the  Senators  burst  into  roars  of  laughter, 
and  the  presidential  aspirant  abruptly  concluded  his  speech  in  a very 
embarrassed  manner. 

Not  a few  of  the  Senators  have  risen  to  eminent  position  from  hum- 
ble life,  and  they  are  often  quite  proud  of  the  fact  that  they  fought 
their  way  to  prominence  by  the  hard  road  of  poverty  and  drudgery. 
It  is  related  of  two  Senators  of  national  fame  that  they  worked  to- 
gether when  young  men  on  the  same  farm  for  several  years.  When 
they  met  in  the  Senate  one  said  to  the  other,  after  congratulating  him 
upon  his  election  as  Senator,  “Well,  John,  when  we  used  to  drive 
old  Brown’s  oxen  we  never  expected  to  meet  in  the  United  States 


9 


130 


PICTUREJSQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Senate.”  “No,  Henry,”  replied  the  other,  “we  didn’t  know  there 
was  such  a place.” 

In  the  Senate  Chamber  are  some  of  the  chairs  used  in  the  old 
chamber  by  the  famous  Senators  of  years  ago — Webster,  Clay, 
Benton,  McDuffie,  Cass,  and  others.  These  historic  chairs  have  been 
carefully  preserved,  and  once  they  were  pointed  out  to  visitors,  but  as 
relic  hunters  began  to  mutilate  them,  it  was  thought  best  to  keep  their 
identity  a close  secret,  and  now  only  Capt.  Isaac  Bassett,  the  venerable 
assistant  door-keeper,  and  two  or  three  of  the  oldest  Senators  know 
which  they  are.  But  few  of  the  Senators  and  officials  of  the  Senate 
who  served  in  the  old  chamber  are  living.  Mr.  Bassett  is  the  only 
official  of  those  days  at  present  connected  with  the  Senate.  He 
began  his  service  in  1831  as  a page,  and  has  continued  in  various 
positions  ever  since. 

The  late  Senator  Heniy  B.  Anthony,  of  Rhode  Island,  gave 
the  longest  continuous  service  of  any  Senator  except  Thomas  Hart 
Benton.  He  entered  the  Senate  in  1859,  served  for  twenty-five 
consecutive  years,  until  his  death  in  September,  1884. 

The  House  of  Representatives,  with  its  great  hall  and  throng  of 
members,  is  in  marked  contrast  to  the  Senate.  Apparently  the  House 
cares  very  little  for  dignity  or  decorum,  and  sometimes  there  is  con- 
siderable confusion  on  the  floor.  There  are  many  days  when  the 
proceedings  are  proper  even  to  extreme  dullness,  but  on  other  days, 
when  an  important  matter  is  under  consideration,  the  House  is  brim- 
ful of  animation.  Until  one  becomes  accustomed  to  its  bewilderintr 
noises,  its  manifold  and  complicated  rules  and  practices,  and  its  pecul- 
iar kind  of  speech-making,  frequently  broken  by  sarcastic  retorts  and 
impertinent  interjections,  it  is  very  difficult  to  understand  much  of  its 
legislation. 

A glance  at  the  House  will  show  members  absorbed  at  their  desks 
over  piles  of  books  and  documents  ; some  are  writing  letters,  others 
are  reading  newspapers.  Groups  here  and  there  are  conversing  in 
animated  tones,  and  before  the  cheerful  grate  fires  in  the  corners  of 
the  hall  are  other  groups  comfortably  seated,  joking  and  laughing. 
Pages  are  running  to  and  fro  with  their  arms  full  of  papers,  and  re- 
sponding to  members  as  they  clap  their  hands.  On  the  floor  there 
may  be  a running  fire  of  debate,  witli  keen,  experienced  debaters 
shouting  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  for  it  is  necessary  to  shout  to  be 


THE  HOUSE, 


131 


heard  half- 
way across  this 
huge  hall, 
while  others 
are  standing  in 
readiness  to 
join  in  the  dis- 
cussion as  soon 
as  they  can 
catch  the 
Speaker’s  eye. 

Cries  of  “ Mr. 

Speaker!” 

“ Mr.  Speak- 
e r I ” “Mr. 

Speaker  I ” go 
up  from  all 
sides.  The 
Speaker  has  a 
difficult  task. 

He  strikes  his 
marble  table 
with  the  gavel 
almost  inces- 
santly to  call 
the  House  to 
order,  and  oc- 
casionally is 
compelled  to 

stop  all  business  and  to  peremptorily  command  every  member  to  take 
his  seat  or  retire  from  the  hall. 

One  is  never  at  a loss  for  amusement  while  watching  the  House 
during  a spirited  session,  and  it  does  not  take  long  to  understand  why 
it  is  that  only  a few  men,  and  those  the  ablest  and  strongest,  ever 
attain  to  any  degree  of  prominence  as  Representatives.  Even  to  be 
heard  in  the  hall  requires  lungs  of  iron,  and  to  stand  against  the  free 
and  often  exceedingly  insolent  comments  and  personal  remarks,  the 
continual  strife  for  mastery,  and  the  shrewd  political  manoeuvering,  a 
member  who  makes  speeches  and  aims  to  be  prominent  must  have 


THE  RETIRING-ROOM  OF  THE  HOUSE. 


— III  l"1~ 

I M ^ 


1 


132 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


great  courage,  much  endurance,  a ready  wit,  and  a very  practical  way 
of  meeting  all  difficulties.  It  is  little  wonder  that  many  men  who  go 
into  the  House  with  the  belief  that  they  can  make  a reputation  in  na- 
tional legislation  are  soon  content  to  remain  “ mute,  inglorious  ” mem- 
bers, ambitious  only  to  obtain  the  privilege  of  printing  their  undeliv- 
ered speeches  in  the  Congressional  Record,  for  circulation  among 
their  constituents.  The  House  is  no  respecter  of  persons,  and  a man 
to  win  success  in  it  must  be  made  of  sturdy  metal. 

The  business  yearly  brought  before  Congress  is  so  enormous  that  it 
has  become  impossible  to  dispose  of  a quarter  of  it.  The  files  of  the 
principal  committees  will  contain  thousands  of  bills  at  each  session, 
and  on  the  calendars  of  both  houses  there  will  be  long  lists  of  import- 
ant matters  waiting  consideration.  Yet  hardly  three  hundred  bills 
will  be  disposed  of,  and  all  the  rest  must  go  over,  greatly  to  the  loss 
and  injury  of  many  persons  in  different  sections  of  the  country. 

In  the  room  of  the  House  Committee  on  Claims  hundreds  of  claims 
are  always  on  file,  some  of  which  have  been  pending  for  years.  One 
claim  for  half  a million  dollars  is  twenty  years  old,  and  at  nearly  every 
session  during  that  time  something  has  been  done  about  it.  It  has 
been  reported  a number  of  times,  but  was  not  reached  on  the  calendar, 
and  consequently  died  with  the  session,  and  had  to  be  introduced 
over  again.  There  are  claims  for  the  relief  of  public  officials,  for 
compensation  for  damages,  and  for  all  sorts  of  things,  many  of  them 
just  and  proper,  but  it  is  found  to  be  impossible  to  dispose  of  any  con- 
siderable number.  Claimants  throng  the  lobbies  of  Congress,  and 
use  ail  the  means  in  their  power  to  have  their  claims  acted  upon,  but 
the  majority  have  to  go  away  unsuccessful. 

As  there  is  great  necessity  for  personal  action  and  influence  to  ex- 
pedite matters  before  Congress  — to  persuade  the  committees  to  I'e- 
port,  and  then  to  persuade  either  house  to  act  — it  naturally  follows 
that  there  must  be  considerable  “ lobbying.”  This  practice  is  very 
ancient,  and  from  the  early  Congresses  to  the  present  one,  the  lobby- 
ist has  been  an  important  factor  of  legislation,  and  the  Third  House 
almost  a recognized  branch  of  the  national  legislature.  The  lobbyists 
thrive  at  each  session,  and  the  shrewd,  worldly-wise  men,  and  even 
women,  who  make  lobbying  a business,  usually  have  all  they  can  do 
in  assisting  the  reporting  and  passage  of  bills.  The  methods  em- 
ployed are  numerous  and  diversified,  and  great  care  is  taken  to  pre- 
vent a knowledge  of  them  coming  to  the  public.  Some  lobbyists  work 
on  contingencies  — that  is,  they  receive  so  much  if  the  business  they 


THE  CONGRESSIONAL  RECORD. 


133 


are  charged  with  is  accomplished ; while  others  will  do  nothing  with- 
out money  in  advance.  Great  corporations  that  desire  the  passage  of 
certain  bills  bearing  directly  and  profitably  upon  their  business  ; claim- 
ants who  have  become  discouraged  at  the  failure  of  their  own  efforts 
to  advance  their  claims  ; the  organizers  of  “jobs”  to  take  millions  out 
of  the  Treasury — -seek  the  lobbyists  and  make  terms  with  them  for 
their  peculiar  and  mysterious  services.  Stories  are  told  of  fortunes 
made  by  the  members  of  the  Third  House  who  have  been  very  success- 
ful, and  it  is  generally  understood  that  the  wily,  ingenious,  persistent 
lobbyists  are  pretty  sure  to  gather  a lucrative  harvest. 

The  official  reporters  of  the  Senate  and  House  take  down  in  short 
hand  the  proceedings  of  each  day’s  session,  and  they  are  printed  the 
following  morning  in  the  official  publication  known  as  The  Congres- 
sional Record.  The  reports  are  presumed  to  be  verbatim,  but  they 
are  far  from  that.  Few,  if  any,  of  the  sarcastic  and  impertinent  re- 
marks made  by  members  during  the  debates  are  ever  printed,  and 
many  of  the  speeches  undergo  substantial  change,  passages  being 
stricken  out  and  new  ones  added  on  the  proof-slips  sent  out  from  the 
Government  Printing  Office  to  members  who  desire  to  make  correc- 
tions. There  are  also  very  many  speeches  printed  in  the  Record 
which  were  never  delivered.  A congressman  who  wishes  to  gain  in 
an  easy  way  the  reputation  of  having  “ made  a great  speech  in  Con- 
gress,” will  obtain  “the  permission  to  print,”  and  then  will  have  in- 
serted in  the  official  publication  his  so-called  speech.  This  saves 
all  the  trouble  of  delivering  it  before  an  ungracious  house,  and  the 
member’s  constituents,  afar  off,  will  not  be  aware  of  the  fact  that  the 
“ eloquent  words  ” were  never  uttered  in  the  legislative  hall. 

Members  frequently  withhold  their  speeches  from  publication  in 
the  Record  for  a number  of  days  in  order  to  obtain  the  place  of 
honor,  the  conspicuous  first  page.  Each  member  of  Congress  is 
entitled  to  twenty-four  copies  of  the  Record  daily,  and  can  purchase 
as  many  more  as  he  desires.  After  Congress  has  finished  its  annual 
session  the  publication  is  usually  continued  for  a month  to  “work 
off”  all  the  speeches,  previously  crowded  out,  that  members  had  re- 
ceived permission  to  print.  The  yearly  cost  of  the  Record  is  about 
$200,000. 

In  the  basement  of  the  Capitol  are  many  committee-rooms,  the 
House  post-office,  the  restaurants,  and  the  document  and  folding 
rooms.  About  thirty  rooms  are  used  for  the  enormous  business  con- 


( Used  for  Committee- Rooms ^ the  Senate  Library ^ Document-Rooms^ 


PUBLIC  DOCUMENTS. 


135 


nected  with  public  documents.  The  government  issues  yearly  nearly 
three  hundred  diflerent  books — reports  of  departments  and  special  re- 
ports on  home  and  foreign  matters,  mostly  bulky  volumes,  and  many 
of  them  illustrated  in  the  finest  and  costliest  manner  — besides  a large 
number  of  pamphlets.  The  Government  Printing-Office  is  con- 
stantly engaged  in  many  of  its  departments  in  printing  and  binding 
these  publications.  A large  force  is  employed  in  the  document  and 
folding  rooms  in  wrapping  and  addressing  the  books  and  pamphlets, 
and  nearly  every  day  in  the  year  one  hundred  large  mail-sacks  of 
public  documents  are  sent  out  over  the  country.  It  is  estimated  that 
the  printed  matter  annually  distributed  will  fill  two  hundred  and  fifty 
mail-cars,  and  will  weigh  six  millions  of  pounds.  More  than  a million 
bound  volumes  are  distributed,  and  an  immense  number  of  pamphlets. 
Each  congressman  is  entitled  to  a certain  number  of  copies  of  all  the 
works,  and  he  furnishes  the  list  of  people  to  whom  they  shall  be  sent. 

Thousands  of  copies  of  The  Congressional  Record  are  distributed 
over  the  country  every  day,  and  during  the  progress  of  an  exciting 
and  important  debate  the  number  will  swell  into  tens  of  thousands. 
Some  congressmen  expend  a large  amount  of  money  in  the  purchase 
and  mailing  of  their  speeches,  and  in  one  case  it  is  known  that  a very 
ambitious  speechmaker  expended  five  thousand  dollars,  his  entire 
compensation  for  the  congressional  year,  in  sending  his  “ great 
speech  ” to  his  constituents  and  to  others  far  and  wide  throughout  the 
United  States.  In  another  case  a speech  on  the  tariff  had  a circula- 
tion of  one  hundred  thousand  copies. 

The  report  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  has  the  largest  cir- 
culation of  any  of  the  public  documents,  and  it  is  greatly  appreciated 
by  enterprising  and  progressive  farmers,  as  its  fund  of  information 
concerning  the  agricultural  interests  is  accurate  and  complete,  great 
pains  being  taken  by  the  department  with  all  the  subjects  treated  of. 
Within  a few  years  the  farmers  of  the  great  southwestern  region  of 
the  country  have  taken  many  thousands  of  the  reports,  and  the  de- 
mand from  that  section  yearly  increases.  The  circulation  of  the  re- 
port in  the  northwest  is  also  very  large.  Reports  on  mines  and 
minerals  are  circulated  throughout  the  mining  regions  in  great  num- 
bers, and  are  also  sent  to  the  financial  centres.  The  reports  of  some 
of  the  departments  are  distributed  among  the  state  and  public  libra- 
ries, and  are  found  to  be  very  useful  for  reference.  Many  of  the  pub- 
lic documents  are  of  much  value  to  specialists,  and  the  demand  for 
them  generally  exceeds  the  supply. 


FROM  PENNSYLVANIA  AVENUE, 


CHAPTER  VIII 


THE  WHITE  HOUSE  — HISTORICAL  SKETCH — DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  BUILDING 
AND  GROUNDS— THE  MAGNIFICENT  STATE  APARTMENTS  — LIFE  IN  THE 
PRESIDENTIAL  MANSION  — THE  PRESIDENT  AND  HIS  OFFICIALS  — STATE 
DINNERS,  FETES  AND  RECEPTIONS  — FORMER  PRESIDENTS  AND  THEIR 
WIVES —SKETCHES  AND  ANECDOTES. 

From  the  beginning  of  the  century  to  the  present  time  the 
Presidents  of  the  United  States  have  resided,  during  their 
official  life,  in  the  Executive  Mansion,  popularly  known  as 
the  White  House,  and  as  one  walks  through  the  rooms  of  the 
ancient  mansion  recollections  of  these  historic  characters  throng  the 
memory.  Here  the  men  chosen  to  guide  the  affairs  of  the  Nation 
have  lived  from  day  to  day,  have  had  their  joys  and  their  sorrows, 
their  domestic  felicity,  the  honors  of  high  position,  and  the  cares  and 
burdens  which  accompany  great  office.  Here  have  been  many  bril- 
liant scenes  of  festivity — the  joyous  nuptial  ceremony,  the  pomp  and 
glitter  of  fetes  and  receptions  ; and  here,  likewise,  have  been  scenes 
of  anguish  — the  lights  and  shades  of  human  existence.  Nearly  a 
hundred  years  ago  Washington  was  present  ,t  the  laying  of  the  cor- 
ner-stone, and  month  by  month  watched  the  beautiful  structure  rise, 
and  on  one  day,  but  a few  weeks  before  his  death,  he  walked  through 
the  house  with  his  beloved  wife.  It  was  then  the  only  completed 
public  building  in  the  new  capital  city,  and  its  pure  classic  elegance 
won  the  admiration  of  the  first  President  and  all  who  looked  upon 
it.  The  tradition  is  that  it  was  called  the  “ White  House  ” out  of  re- 
spect for  Martha  Washington,  whose  early  home  on  the  Pamunkey 
River,  in  Virginia,  was  known  by  that  name ; but  as  its  color  was 
always  white,  it  is  more  probable  that  the  popular  name  came  into 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


138 

use  from  that.  It  is  always  officially  styled  “ The  Executive  Man- 
sion,” but  this  dignified  appellation  is  seldom  heard  outside  of  gov- 
ernment circles. 

The  first  commissioners  of  the  city  of  Washington  advertised  on 
the  14th  of  March,  1792,  for  a design  of  “The  President’s  House,” 
offering  a premium  of  $500  for  the  best  one.  Among  the  number 
submitted  was  one  by  a talented  young  architect  named  James  Hoban, 
and  his  design  being  approved,  the  premium  was  awarded  to  him, 
and  he  was  engaged  at  a salary  of  one  hundred  guineas  per  year  to 
superintend  the  construction  of  the  mansion.  Hoban  had  resided  for 
some  years  in  Charleston,  South  Carolina,  before  he  came  to  Wash- 
ington to  enter  the  ranks  of  the  contestants  for  the  honor  of  designing 
the  White  House,  and  was  considered  one  of  the  leading  architects  in 
the  country.  He  had  studied  in  Europe,  and  was  familiar  with  the 
most  notable  examples  of  foreign  architecture.  In  his  design  he  fol- 
lowed that  of  the  palace  of  the  Duke  of  Leinster,  in  Dublin,  and  the 
White  House,  as  it  stands  to-day,  bears  a marked  resemblance  to  its 
foreign  prototype.  Hoban  resided  in  Washington  until  his  death  in 
1831,  and  accumulated  a large  estate  by  the  practice  of  his  profes- 
sion. 

On  the  13th  of  October,  1792,  the  corner-stone  of  the  White  House 
was  laid,  in  accordance  with  the  rites  of  Masonry.  It  was  an  import- 
ant event  to  those  who  were  deeply  interested  in  ffie  embryo  capital, 
and  several  thousand  people  assembled  to  witness  the  ceremony. 
President  Washington,  the  commissioners,  the  architect,  the  Masons, 
and  others  formed  a procession  and  solemnly  marched  to  the  spot, 
and  there  held  formal  and  impressive  e.xercises.  The  work  of  con- 
struction was  begun  at  once,  but  on  account  of  some  difficulty  in  rais- 
ing money  the  building  was  not  entirely  completed  until  1799*  Up 
to  1814,  when  the  interior  was  partially  burned  by  the  British  troops, 
the  total  cost  of  construction  was  $333,207.  The  reconstruction  and 
re-furnishing,  after  the  fire,  cost  about  $300,000,  and  since  then  many 
thousands  of  dollars  have  been  expended  in  various  improvements, 
and  in  the  laying  out  and  ornamentation  of  the  spacious  grounds. 
When  the  house  was  re-opened  on  the  ist  of  January,  1818,  it  was 
pronounced  “a  grand  edifice”;  and  from  that  day  to  this  it  has  been 
an  object  of  admiration. 

The  White  House  is  situated  on  the  government  reservation 
called  “The  President’s  Grounds,”  and  fronts  on  Pennsylvania  Ave- 
nue at  Lafayette  Square.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  an  enclosed  plat  of 


THE  STATE  PARLORS. 


139 


twenty  acres,  and  the  main  entrance  is  reached  by  two  broad  semi- 
circular driveways  lined  with  noble  trees.  The  grounds  are  filled 
with  flower-beds  and  well-kept  lawns,  and  adorned  with  marble  foun- 
tains, and  at  the  back  of  the  house  is  a park  sloping  gradually  to  the 
river  bank,  which  opens  a far-reaching  prospect  of  the  Potomac  and 
the  blue  hills  of  Virginia.  Stately  oaks,  sycamores,  and  poplars  give 
the  grounds  in  summer  a most  beautiful  sylvan  appearance,  and  the 
official  mansion  then  is  almost  hidden  by  expansive  foliage.  The 
building  is  constructed  of  Virginia  freestone,  painted  white.  It  is  of 
the  Grecian  order  of  architecture,  has  two  stories  and  a basement, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a wide  balustrade.  It  is  one  hundred  and  sev- 
enty feet  in  length  and  eighty-six  feet  in  width.  At  the  main  entrance 
is  a grand  portico  of  Ionic  columns,  and  at  the  rear  is  a semi-circular 
colonnade.  Adjoining  the  house  on  the  west  is  a large  conservatory 
containing  a choice  and  varied  collection  of  plants. 

The  state  parlors  on  the  first  floor  are  usually  accessible  to  the 
public  during  certain  hours  of  each  week-day.  The  main  entrance 
door  opens  into  a spacious  vestibule  which  is  elegantly  frescoed. 
From  the  vestibule  the  great  East  Room  is  reached.  This  is  the 
largest  apartment  in  the  house,  and  until  1837  it  was  used  as  a ban- 
quet hall.  It  is  eighty  by  forty  feet,  and  is  designed  in  Grecian  style 
and  richly  ornamented.  Its  lofty  ceiling  is  composed  of  three  large 
panels,  profusely  decorated,  and  in  the  centre  of  each  panel  hangs  a 
massive  crystal  chandelier.  Eight  long,  magnificent  mirrors,  sup- 
ported on  carved  mantels,  in  white  and  gold,  are  placed  around  the 
room,  and  a costly  velvet  carpet  covers  the  broad  floor.  The  hang- 
ings and  upholstery  are  exceedingly  rich  and  handsome.  A full- 
length  painting  of  Washington,  by  Gilbert  Stuart,  purchased  in  1803, 
hangs  on  the  walls,  and  also  one  of  Martha  Washington,  by  E.  F. 
Andrews,  purchased  in  1878.  When  evening  receptions  are  given 
by  the  President,  the  room  is  fragrant  and  beautiful  with  masses  of 
flowers.  Festoons  of  smilax  encircle  the  chandeliers,  the  mantels  are 
banked  with  precious  roses,  and  the  windows  and  angles  are  filled 
with  tall  palms  and  comely  exotic  plants,  the  luxuriant  floral  display 
adding  a charming  effect  to  the  gay  and  brilliant  surroundings. 

Leading  from  the  East  Room  is  the  Green  Room,  in  which  all  the 
furniture  and  decorations  are  pale  green.  In  this  room  hangs  the  life- 
size  painting  of  Mrs.  Rutherford  B.  Hayes,  which  was  presented  to 
the  government  in  May,  1881,  by  the  National  Temperance  Union. 
It  is  by  Huntington,  and  the  canvas  is  over  seven  feet  high,  and  the 


140 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


elaborately  carved  oaken  frame,  made  by  the  Cincinnati  School  of 
Design,  is  nearly  ten  feet  high.  Mrs.  Hayes  is  represented  standing 
in  a graceful  attitude,  holding  a bunch  of  roses.  She  is  attired  in 
crimson  velvet,  and  has  white  lace  around  her  neck  and  arms. 

The  Blue  Room  is  the  next  in  the  suite.  It  is  here  that  the  Pres- 
ident receives  his  guests  at  public  and  private  receptions.  The  room 
is  oval,  and  is  decorated  and  furnished  in  light  blue.  The  walls  are 
profusely  yet  very  tastefully  embellished,  and  the  upholstery,  consist- 
ing of  delicate  silk  with  gilt  trimmings,  is  unique  and  attractive. 

It  is  in  the  Red  Room,  the  last  of  the  apartments  on  the  first  floor 
open  to  the  inspection  of  the  public,  that  the  President  sits  at  night, 
and  it  is  furnished  and  arranged  as  a family  parlor.  Here  are  books 
and  periodicals,  numerous  bric-a-brac,  a mahogany  table  over  one 
hundred  years  old,  a fine  portrait  of  Lincoln  above  the  mantel,  and 
elegant  red  plush  furniture.  The  walls  and  hangings  are  red,  and 
the  room  has  a cheerful,  cosy  appearance  — an  atmosphere  of  home 
life  about  it. 

The  state  parlors  open  into  a long  corridor,  which  is  used  on  the 
occasion  of  fetes  as  a grand  promenade  for  the  guests.  Paintings  of 
the  Presidents  cover  the  wall  of  the  corridor,  and  here  and  there  on 
the  floor  are  placed  tropical  plants.  The  corridor  is  separated  from 
the  vestibule  by  a handsome  sash  screen. 

The  state  dining-room,  in  which  the  President  gives  ceremonious 
dinners  during  the  winter  to  the  members  of  the  Cabinet,  Senators  and 
Representatives,  the  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  the  diplomatic 
corps,  and  other  distinguished  personages,  is  at  the  western  end  of 
the  corridor.  It  is  magnificently  furnished,  and  at  its  table  over  fifty 
persons  can  dine.  When  state  dinners  are  given,  the  White  House 
is  brilliant  with  lights  and  flowers,  with  court  costumes  and  splendid 
toilets,  with  fair  women  and  stately  men.  The  table  is  set  with  the 
sumptuous  state  china,  on  which  is  finely  depicted  the  fauna  and  flora 
of  America,  and  with  masses  of  silver  and  delicately  cut  glass.  Gold 
and  silver  candlesticks  and  mirrored  sconces  in  broad  silver  frames 
contain  wax-lights,  which  brightly  illuminate  tlie  table,  and  special 
floral  designs  of  exquisite  beauty  add  rich  color  and  perfume  to  the 
banquet.  Corsage  bouquets  are  provided  for  tlie  ladies,  and  houton- 
niercs  for  the  gentlemen.  The  President  leads  the  way  to  the  table 
at  eight  o’clock,  and  tlie  dinner  of  many  courses  continues  for  three 
hours,  during  which  time  the  Marine  Band,  stationed  in  the  vestibule, 
discourses  soft,  delicious  music. 


ROOMS  OF  THE  WHITE  HOUSE. 


141 


THE  WHITE  HOUSE,  FROM  THE  SOUTH. 


In  the  second  story  are  the  executive  offices,  the  President’s  re- 
ception-room, where  he  receives  those  who  call  during  the  day  on 
business  or  to  pay  their  respects ; the  Cabinet  room,  and  the  various 
family  rooms.  All  the  rooms  on  the  east  side  of  the  house  are  used 
for  the  government  business,  and  all  on  the  west  are  private. 

The  Cabinet  room  is  spacious  and  well  arranged.  Here  the 
President  meets  the  members  of  his  Cabinet  every  Tuesday  and  Fri- 
day at  noon,  and  around  a long  table,  covered  with  books  and  docu- 
ments, they  discuss  affairs  of  state.  The  President  sits  at  the  head 
of  the  table,  with  the  Secretary  of  State  at  his  right,  and  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Treasury  at  his  left  hand.  The  Cabinet  meetings  usually 
continue  for  two  hours. 

The  President’s  reception-room  is  a large,  finely  furnished  apart- 
ment, oval  in  shape.  The  windows  are  hung  with  silk  curtains,  and 
the  furniture  is  of  mahogany,  upholstered  in  red  leather.  At  the 
sides  of  the  room  are  long,  low  book-cases,  filled  with  richly  bound 


142 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


volumes,  and  before  these  are  chairs  for  persons  waiting  to  be  re- 
ceived. In  front  of  the  windows  is  the  President’s  desk,  a massive 
oak  structure  of  historic  interest.  It  was  constructed  of  timber  which 
formed  part  of  Her  Majesty’s  ship  “ Resolute,”  sent  to  the  Arctic  Sea 
in  1852  by  the  English  government,  to  search  for  Sir  John  Franklin. 
The  ship  was  abandoned  in  the  ice,  but  afterward  was  discovered  and 
restored  by  an  American  whaler.  This  souvenir  was  expressly  made 
for  the  White  House,  and  came  into  it  in  1881.  The  room  has  a 
pleasant  appearance  : portraits  of  the  first  five  Presidents  look  down 
from  the  walls,  and  disposed  in  various  nooks  are  bronzes  and  art 
decorations. 

It  is  proper  to  call  on  the  President  on  any  public  business,  or 
simply  to  pay  respects,  and  he  is  “ at  home”  to  visitors  from  ten  a.  m. 
to  one  p.  M.  on  Wednesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  and  at  such 
hours  on  other  days  as  suit  his  convenience.  Visitors  are  shown 
into  a waiting-room  at  the  head  of  the  stairs  leading  from  the  first 
story,  and  their  cards  taken  to  the  private  secretary.  Afterward 
they  are  escorted  to  the  reception-room,  where  the  President  receives 
each  person  in  turn.  The  customary  form  of  address  is  “ Mr.  Presi- 
dent.” 

The  President  receives  a compensation  of  $50,000  per  year.  He 
furnishes  his  personal  servants,  all  household  supplies,  and  horses 
and  carriages.  The  government  provides  the  furniture  for  the  White 
House,  keeps  the  house  and  grounds  in  order,  and  pays  the  salaries 
of  the  private  secretaries  and  clerks,  and  other  employes.  The  pri- 
vate secretary  has  a salary  of  $3,250  per  year,  and  the  assistant  sec- 
retary $2,250.  Two  executive  clerks  have  salaries  of  $2,000,  and 
a stenographer  is  employed  at  a salary  of  $i  ,800.  There  are  also  six 
clerks,  a steward,  three  ushers,  five  messengers,  two  door-keepers, 
a watchman  and  a fireman.  The  total  compensation  of  the  house- 
hold force  provided  by  the  government  amounts  to  $36,000  per  year. 
There  are  $8,000  allowed  for  the  contingent  expenses  of  the  execu- 
tive offices,  $15,000  for  lighting  tlie  house  and  grounds,  which  require 
considerable  illumination  every  evening;  $5,500  for  the  care  of  the 
conservatory,  and  $25,000  for  the  other  expenses.  Thus  it  will  be 
seen  that  it  costs  the  government  $89,500  per  year  to  maintain  the 
Executive  Mansion. 

Every  morning  the  private  secretary  examines  the  enormous  mail 
which  comes  to  the  White  House  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  selects 
the  letters  which  it  is  necessary  for  the  President  to  see,  and  turns  the 


THE  PRESIDENT’S  OFFICE  HOURS. 


143 


others  over  to  the  clerks  who  have  charge  of  the  correspondence. 
He  also  arranses  the  details  of  the  social  life  which  forms  no  small 

o 

part  of  the  duty  of  the  President,  especially  during  the  congressional 
season,  and  in  many  ways  relieves  him  of  official  burdens.  His  re- 
lations with  the  President  are  very  confidential.  The  assistant  secre- 
tary has  charge  of  all  papers  concerning  Presidential  appointments, 
and  also  of  all  matters  between  the  President  and  Congress.  A com- 
plete record  is  kept  of  the  appointments,  the  confirmations  and  rejec- 
tions by  the  Senate,  and  the  removals  from  office,  and  the  history  of 
every  appointment  or  removal  can  be  readily  ascertained  from  the 
record-books. 

A large  part  of  each  day’s  mail  consists  of  letters  relating  to  the 
affairs  of  the  various  departments  of  the  government.  These  letters 
are  recorded,  and  then  are  transmitted  to  the  departments  to  which 
they  belong,  to  be  answered.  From  two  hundred  to  three  hundred 
newspapers  are  received  daily  from  all  sections  of  the  United  States 
and  from  Europe.  Editors  who  desire  that  the  President  should  see 
certain  political  articles  send  marked  copies  of  their  publications,  and 
many  others  favor  him  with  printed  matter.  He  subscribes  for  the 
leading  newspapers  and  periodicals.  A clerk  is  specially  detailed  to 
carefully  examine  all  the  newspapers,  and  to  cut  out  the  articles  he 
thinks  the  President  w^ould  like  to  read.  The  cuttings  are  put  in  a 
scrap-book,  which  is  laid  before  the  President  every  morning.  He 
looks  it  over,  and  thus  is  enabled,  in  a half-hour,  to  become  familiar 
with  the  good  things  and  the  bad  things  printed  of  his  administration, 
and  also  with  the  general  drift  of  political  affairs. 

The  President’s  business  day  begins  at  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
and  an  hour^  before  he  has  entered  his  office,  the  outer  waiting-room 
will  contain  a number  of  persons  seeking  an  interview  with  him.  He 
first  reads  the  many  letters  on  his  desk,  and  to  the  least  important  of 
them  rapidly  dictates  answers,  keeping  his  private  secretary  and  his 
stenographer  busy  for  some  time.  The  letters  requiring  careful 
attention  are  put  aside  to  be  attended  to  when  the  stress  of  business  is 
over  for  the  day,  and  he  has  time  to  properly  consider  them.  When 
the  correspondence  is  disposed  of  visitors  are  admitted. 

The  visitors  are  always  numerous.  They  come  on  all  sorts  of 
business,  with  all  sorts  of  stories,  from  the  east  and  west,  from  the  north 
and  south,  and  from  lands  beyond  the  sea.  As  the  President  has  the 
appointment  of  a vast  army  of  office-holders  — nearly  100,000,  it  is  es- 
timated— much  of  his  time  in  the  morning  hours,  and  for  that  mat- 


144 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


ter  in  all  hours,  has  to  be  given  up  to  the  seekers  for  office  and  their 
friends.  He  has  to  listen  to  all  the  urgent  claims,  all  the  requests  of 
statesmen  and  politicians,  that  this  or  that  office  shall  be  awarded  to 
this  or  that  patriot  whose  valuable  services  to  the  country  (that  is  “the 
party”)  have  entitled  him  to  feed  at  the  public  crib.  Aspirants  for 
every  office  in  his  gift  are  at  hand  — for  bureau  offices,  for  first-class 
and  second-class  or  any  class  missions,  for  judicial  offices,  for  marshal- 
ships,  for  post-offices,  for  collectorships,  for  territorial  commissions, 
for  the  army  and  navy,  and,  in  fact,  for  everything  in  the  long  list. 
They  throng  around  the  President  day  after  day  and  insist,  with  many 
strong  reasons,  that  their  claims  shall  be  allowed  — insist  with  indom- 
itable perseverance.  Delegations  from  various  states  arrive  in  the 
city  and  hurry  to  the  White  House,  eager  in  the  hunt  of  some  good 
office  which  has  just  become  vacant,  each  delegation  striving  to  be  in 
advance  of  the  other,  so  as  to  influence  the  Pi'esident  in  making  up  his 
mind  as  to  the  new  appointment.  Senators  and  Representatives  send 
in  their  cards  with  requests  for  “ a few  minutes’  interview  on  import- 
ant business.”  High  officials,  diplomats,  eminent  strangers,  seek  an 
audience,  and  until  the  President  closes  his  doors  at  luncheon-time  his 
reception-room  is  constantly  full  of  visitors,  and  he  is  entirely  occu- 
pied in  attending  to  them. 

The  hours  of  the  afternoon  are  devoted  by  the  President  to  study- 
ing the  questions  of  state  which  have  been  brought  to  his  attention. 
As  he  is  charged  with  the  duty  of  ascertaining  if  the  immense  and 
important  business  of  the  government  is  properly  conducted,  it  is 
necessary  for  him  to  continually  review  the  work  of  the  department 
officials.  Certainly  a day  of  arduous  toil  at  its  best.  And  then  there  is 
the  pain  of  disappointing  many  whose  desires  cannot  be  gratified,  and 
there  is  the  difficulty  in  arriving  at  the  exact  truth  in  order  that  justice 
may  be  done,  and  withal  the  need  of  making  momentous  decisions 
which  are  likely  to  be  criticised  harshly  in  every  section  of  the  coun- 
try, howsoever  they  are  made.  This  is  the  President’s  usual  routine 
of  life,  commingled  with  incessant  social  duties,  no  portion  of  which 
can  be  remitted  in  any  way. 

The  regular  dinner  hour  at  the  White  House  is  seven  o’clock,  and 
at  this  meal  the  President  usually  has  a few  intimate  friends  at  his  table, 
and  for  a while  banishes  the  cares  of  his  position.  He  rarely  accepts 
invitations  to  dinner,  except  witli  the  members  of  his  Cabinet,  and 
never  makes  ceremonious  calls ; but  he  invites  officials  and  friends  to 
dine  with  him,  and  visits  in  official  circles  without  ceremony  at  his 


FAMOUS  STATUES. 

1.  Statue  of  General  Rawlins.  2.  Ward’s  Statue  of  General  Thomas.  3.  Statue  of  Emancipation. 

4.  Statue  of  General  McPherson.  5.  Statue  of  Admiral  Farragut. 


10 


146 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


pleasure.  An  invitation  to  dine  with  the  President  must  be  always- 
accepted,  unless  illness  compels  declination.  No  previous  engage- 
ment has  precedence,  and  when  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  decline 
it  is  customary  to  send  a full  explanation  in  writing. 

The  etiquette  regulating  the  social  intercourse  of  the  President  and 
his  family  with  officials  and  the  public  has  been  in  vogue  since  tl.e 
administration  of  Washington,  modified  more  or  less  by  the  different 
Presidents,  but  retaining  its  salient  points  to  the  present  day.  In  the 
early  years  of  the  White  House  there  were  many  courtly  ceremonials, 
but  they  have  been  long  since  laid  away  with  the  powdered  wigs,  the 
lace  ruffs,  and  all  the  ancient  styles  of  dress,  and  the  certain  polite 
forms  now  prescribed,  the  careful  observance  of  which  is  expected,, 
are  very  simple  in  comparison  with  the  ceremony  once  prevailing. 

The  annual  series  of  presidential  receptions  begins  on  New  Year’s 
day,  and  continues  until  spring.  On  New  Year’s  day  the  President 
has  a public  reception.  The  first  to  pay  their  respects  to  him  are  the 
members  of  the  Cabinet,  the  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  the  Sena- 
tors and  Representatives,  and  the  high  officials  of  the  government. 
Then  the  diplomatic  corps,  in  court  costumes,  and  the  officers  of  the 
army  and  navy,  in  full  uniform,  present  themselves.  Afterward  the 
public  are  admitted.  From  this  time  until  the  season  wanes  there  are 
fetes  and  grand  dinners  at  the  White  House  every  week. 

The  President  usually  gives  a number  of  public  evening  receptions 
during  the  winter,  which  are  open  to  everybody  of  respectability.  Al- 
though there  is  no  rule  about  the  matter,  it  is  customary  to  appear  at 
these  receptions  in  full  evening  costume,  and  the  finest  of  toilets  are 
always  to  be  seen.  On  these  occasions  the  White  House  assumes 
a fascinating  appearance.  The  grounds  are  brightly  illuminated,  long 
lines  of  carriages  fill  the  great  driveways,  and  throngs  of  people  as- 
semble on  the  walks,  and  are  slowly  admitted  into  the  house.  The 
interior  is  lavishly  adorned  with  flowers,  the  state  apartments  and 
the  conservatory  are  open,  and  are  dazzling  with  a thousand  lights. 
Ushers  conduct  the  guests  to  the  cloak-rooms,  and  thence  to  the  Blue 
Room,  where  presentations  are  made  to  the  President  by  the  Marshal 
of  the  District  of  Columbia.  A brilliant  and  distinguished  group  al- 
ways surrounds  the  President  — members  of  the  Cabinet,  famous  gen- 
erals and  congressmen,  diplomats,  high  officials,  with  their  wives 
and  daughters.  After  the  presentation,  which  is  necessarily  brief,  the 
guests  can  stroll  through  the  gorgeous  rooms  and  down  the  floral 
pathways  of  the  conservatory,  and  for  two  hours  enjoy  the  music,  the 
gay  conversation,  and  the  brightness  of  the  festival. 


PUBLIC  RECEPTIONS. 


147 


The  ladies  of  the  presidential  household  have  weekly  afternoon 
receptions  during  the  winter,  generally  on  Saturday,  from  two  to  five 
o’clock.  No  invitations  are  issued,  and  every  one  is  at  liberty  to  attend. 
Prominent  society  ladies  assist  at  these  receptions,  and  the  President 
is  often  present.  The  dress  is  that  customary  for  morning  calls. 

During  the  two  official  terms  of  the  first  President  he  resided  in 
plain,  comfortable,  but  not  over-large  houses  in  New  York  and  Phil- 
adelphia, which  were  rented  by  the  government  and  furnished  in  a 
suitable  manner.  In  these  houses  Washington  and  his  wife  held  what 
has  been  described  as  a “ Republican  court,”  and  established  the  offi- 
cial ceremony  which,  in  part,  has  come  down  to  this  age. 

When  the  government  removed  to  the  capital  city  in  October,  1800, 
the  White  House  was  ready  for  occupancy,  and  President  John  Adams 
and  family  at  once  took  up  their  residence  in  it.  The  first  public 
reception  was  given  on  the  ist  of  January,  1801,  and  the  guests  were 
received  in  the  room  in  the  second  story  in  which  the  President  now 
receives  his  business  callers.  The  East  Room  was  then  unfurnished, 
and  Mrs.  Adams  used  it  as  a drying-room,  for  lack  of  a good  yard, 
the  grounds  of  the  White  House  being  rough  and  exposed  at  that 
time,  and  in  this  spacious  state  parlor  the  presidential  linen  was  hung 
on  wash-days.  In  writing  to  her  daughter,  Mrs.  Adams  said  of  her 
new  residence  : “The  house  is  on  a grand  and  superb  scale,  requir- 
ing about  thirty  servants  to  attend  and  keep  the  apartments  in  proper 
order  and  perform  the  ordinary  business  of  the  house  and  stables. 
The  lighting  of  the  apartments,  from  the  kitchen  to  parlors  and  cham- 
bers, is  a tax  indeed,  but  the  fires  we  are  obliged  to  keep  to  secure  us 
from  daily  agues  are  cheering.  Bells  are  wholly  wanting ; not  one 
hung  through  the  whole  house,  and  promises  are  all  we  can  obtain.” 

Abigail  Adams  is  credited  with  a strong  intellect  and  extensive 
culture.  Although  in  feeble  health,  she  zealously  and  faithfully  per- 
formed all  her  social  duties,  aided  her  husband  in  his  official  work, 
and  carefully  attended  to  the  household  affairs.  She  is  the  only 
lady  of  the  White  House  who  reared  a son  to  become  President. 

During  President  Adams’  residence  in  tbe  official  mansion  he  gave 
many  splendid  state  dinners  and  receptions,  but  his  own  way  of  liv- 
ing was  very  plain.  His  invariable  luncheon  consisted  of  oat-cake 
and  lemonade,  and  the  family  dinners  were  simple.  He  was  in  the 
habit  of  taking  long  walks,  and  was  quite  unassuming  in  manner.  In 
fact,  his  wife,  it  is  said,  occasionally  had  to  remind  him,  when  he  was 


148 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


somewhat  free  and  sportive  in  his  intercourse  with  people,  that  he 
held  a high  and  dignified  office.  Like  all  persons  of  rank  in  those 
days,  he  wore  richly  embroidered  coats,  silk  stockings,  huge  silver 
buckles  on  his  shoes,  and  a powdered  wig,  but  is  said  to  have  pre- 
ferred a plainer  garb.  He  was  frugal,  and  went  out  of  office  with  a 
good  sum  of  money  saved  from  his  salary. 

Thomas  Jefferson,  the  third  President,  entered  the  White  House 
in  1801.  When  he  appeared  before  Congress  to  deliver  his  “ annual 
speech  ” every  one  was  astonished  at  his  simple  attire,  which  was  in 
great  contrast  to  that  of  his  predecessors.  He  wore  a blue  coat  with 
gilt  buttons,  blue  pantaloons,  and  serviceable  American  shoes  tied 
with  leather  strings.  He  had  entirely  discarded  the  “ aristocratic 
foppery,”  as  he  termed  it,  of  official  life.  He  adopted  the  plainest 
style  of  living,  and  appeared  in  public  either  on  foot  or  mounted  on  a 
sedate,  slow-going  horse,  instead  of  in  a showy  presidential  coach 
with  liveried  servants  and  outriders.  Usually  he  wore  a large  felt 
hat,  pulled  down  nearly  over  his  eyes.  With  the  stiff,  formal  customs 
then  in  vogue  he  would  have  nothing  to  do,  and  he  set  himself  to  the 
pleasant  task  of  making  all  the  callers  at  the  White  House  “ perfectly 
at  home.”  He  liked  to  be  surrounded  by  poets  and  painters,  singers 
and  musicians,  and  every  genial  denizen  of  Bohemia  that  he  could 
secure.  As  his  wife  had  died  some  time  before  he  became  President, 
his  two  daughters,  assisted  by  Mrs.  Madison,  the  wife  of  the  then 
Secretary  of  State,  conducted  the  social  affairs  of  the  White  House 
during  his  administration. 

Jefferson  was  noted  for  his  exalted  ideas  of  equality.  He  was 
sincere  and  unaffected,  and  made  it  a rule  to  be  courteous  and  com- 
panionable to  all  men.  One  day  while  riding  with  a grandson,  named 
after  him,  an  old  slave  they  met  in  the  road  raised  his  cap  and  bowed 
very  obsequiously.  Jefferson  returned  the  salute  in  a polite  manner, 
but  his  grandson  took  no  notice  of  it.  Turning  to  the  boy  he  said, 
“ Thomas,  do  you  permit  a poor  slave  to  be  more  of  a gentleman 
than  yourself?  ” 

On  one  occasion  when  Jefferson  was  returning  from  a horseback 
ride  in  Virginia,  with  two  of  his  nephews  anc  a party  of  gentlemen, 
he  and  the  young  men  rode  somewhat  in  advance  of  the  others,  and 
coming  to  a swollen  stream  they  found  the  water  was  up  to  their 
saddle-girths.  A countryman  was  on  the  bank,  waiting  to  get  across, 
and  when  the  young  men  had  ridden  over,  he  stepped  up  to  the  Presi- 
dent and  requested  a ride.  “Certainly,”  said  Jefferson  ; and  he  reined 


PUBLIC  RECEPTIONS. 


149 


up  to  a rock,  bade  the  stranger  mount  his  horse,  and  then  took  him 
over  the  stream.  The  party  in  the  rear  noticed  the  occurrence,  and 
when  shortly  after  they  overtook  the  pedestrian,  one  of  them  asked 
him  why  he  did  not  request  one  of  the  young  men  instead  of  the  eld- 
erly  gentleman  to  take  him  over  the  water.  “ Well,”  he  replied,  “ if 
you  want  to  know  I’ll  tell  you.  I reckon  a man  carries  yes  or  no  in 
his  face.  The  young  chaps’  faces  said  no  ; the  old  ’un’s  said  yes.” 
“ But  it  isn’t  every  man  that  would  have  asked  the  President  of  the 
United  States  for  a ride  behind  him,”  said  the  other.  “You  don’t 
say  that’s  Tom  Jefferson,  do  you?”  cried  the  astonished  country- 
man, adding,  “ He’s  a fine  old  fellow,  anyway  !”  Then  he  laughed 
heartily,  and  said,  “ What  do  you  suppose  my  wife  Polly  will  say 
when  I get  back  home  and  tell  her  I’ve  ridden  behind  Jefferson? 
She’ll  say  I voted  for  the  right  man  ! ” 

When  James  Madison  became  President,  in  1809,  he  restored  in 
full  the  stately  ceremonies  of  the  White  House,  disregarded  by  Jef- 
ferson, and  court  costumes  were  again  seen  at  the  levees.  Madison 
always  wore  his  hair  powdered,  but  his  dress  was  usually  plain,  except 
when  he  gave  official  receptions  and  dinners,  when  he  would  don  a 
very  magnificent  suit.  He  was  a small  man,  with  a mild,  pleasant 
face,  and  was  quite  overshadowed  by  his  tall,  elegant  wife.  At  the 
inauguration  ball  “ Mrs.  Madison  ‘ looked  and  moved  a queen.’  She 
wore  a buff-colored  velvet  dress  with  pearl  ornaments,  and  a Paris 
turban  with  a bird  of  paradise  plume.”  Dolly  Madison  was  a widow 
when  she  married  Madison,  and  was  known  in  Philadelphia  society 
for  her  beauty  and  accomplishments.  She  had  a happy,  buoyant 
nature,  and  during  her  reign  of  five  years  filled  the  great  mansion 
with  merriment  and  good-cheer.  Dancing-parties  were  frequent,  and 
innumerable  gay  social  events  delighted  the  fashionable  circles  of 
Washington.  At  the  levees  Mrs.  Madison  is  said  to  have  “ made  a 
most  magnificent  appearance,  her  stately  and  Juno-like  form  tower- 
ing above  the  rest  of  the  ladies.”  She  was  often  styled  “ the  queen,” 
and  the  White  House  was  generally  called  “ the  palace.” 

The  first  marriage  which  ever  took  place  in  the  White  House  was 
dui'ing  Madison’s  administration.  In  the  winter  of  1811  Miss  Todd, 
a relative  of  Mrs.  Madison,  was  married  to  Congressman  Jackson, 
of  Virginia.  The  nuptial  ceremony  was  very  brilliant,  and  was  at- 
tended by  nearly  all  the  select  society  of  the  capital. 

When  the  British  troops  entered  Washington  and  fired  the  Capi- 
tol, the  inmates  of  the  White  House  made  a hasty  flight.  President 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


150 

Madison  with  his  Cabinet  had  retired  from  the  city  after  the  battle 
of  Bladensburg,  but  he  had  left  his  wife  and  her  companions  to  fol- 
low as  soon  as  it  should  be  necessary.  Mrs.  Madison  had  issued  in- 
vitations for  a dinner-party,  and  as  it  was  not  believed  that  the  enemy 
would  reach  the  city  that  evening,  she  had  the  preparations  for  the 
dinner  go  on.  When  the  news  was  brought  that  the  British  were  on 
Capitol  Hill,  she  collected  a few  personal  articles,  cut  from  its  frame 
the  famous  painting  of  Washington  hanging  in  the  East  Room,  that 
it  might  not  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  invaders,  and  with  her  friends 
fled  from  the  house  to  a place  of  safety. 

The  British  soldiers,  when  they  marched  into  the  White  House, 
found,  to  their  great  surprise,  a bountiful  dinner  all  spread,  with 
covers  for  thirty  guests.  The  meats  were  ready  to  be  served,  and 
on  the  sideboard  the  wine  was  cooling.  It  is  almost  superfluous  to 
say  that  the  soldiers  made  a good  meal  before  they  fired  the  “ Yan- 
kee nalace.” 


ST.  Dominick’s  r.  c.  church. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


THE  WHITE  HOUSE  CONTINUED  — SKETCHES  OF  THE  PRESIDENTS  AND  THEIR 
MANNER  OF  LIVING  — THE  BRILLIANT  SOCIAL  EVENTS  — DISTINGUISHED 
WOMEN  WHO  HAVE  PRESIDED  OVER  THE  HOUSEHOLD  — SCENES  AND  INCI- 
DENTS FROM  THE  BEGINNING  OF  THE  CENTURY  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME. 

CONGRESS  authorized  the  restoration  of  the  White  House  in 
1815,  and  Hoban,  its  architect,  had  it  ready  for  occupancy 
in  the  early  part  of  James  Monroe’s  administration.  When 
it  was  re-opened  in  1818  it  was  more  beautiful  than  before 
the  British  conflagration,  and  the  flfth  President,  in  a short  time,  made 
it  quite  a splendid  court.  Washington  society  at  that  period  was  ex- 
ceedingly brilliant  with  lavish  displays  of  wealth.  The  South  sent 
its  beauty  and  its  culture  to  adorn  the  capital,  and  the  great  sugar 
and  cotton  planters,  who  had  obtained  opulence  in  a few  years,  used 
their  means  freely,  during  their  residence  in  Washington,  in  enter- 
taining and  living  in  a gay  and  costly  manner.  The  State  of  Vir- 
ginia was  proud  of  the  fact  that  four  of  the  five  Presidents  were  from 
her  people,  and  claimed  the  rare  distinction  of  being  “ the  mother  ot 
Presidents.”  Her  lovely  women  and  distinguished  men  thronged  the 
city,  and  invested  its  society  with  a refined  and  courtly  tone.  The 
Northern  element  was  also  large,  and  some  of  the  most  intellectual 
people  of  the  prominent  cities  were  among  the  leaders  of  the  social 
life. 

President  Monroe  was  a stately  Virginian,  nearly  six  feet  in  height. 
He  was  polished  in  manner,  and  was  always  carefully  dressed  in  a 
dark  blue  coat,  buff  vest,  small-clothes,  and  top-boots.  He  wore  a 
cocked  hat  of  Revolutionary  style,  and  he  has  been  called  “ the  last 
of  the  cocked  hats,”  for  he  was  the  last  of  the  Presidents  to  adhere  to 


152 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


the  fashions  of  the  past  century.  His  face  was  mild  and  grave,  and, 
although  he  was  very  courteous,  he  was  never  familiar  in  his  inter- 
course with  men,  and  was  given  to  a liking  for  the  strict  observance 
of  official  ceremony.  He  had  been  in  public  life  from  youth,  and  was 
highly  esteemed  for  his  true,  gentle  nature,  and  it  has  been  recorded 
of  him  that  he  was  “ one  of  the  purest  public  servants  that  ever  lived.” 

His  wife,  Elizabeth  Kortright  Monroe,  was  a highly  accomplished 
lady  of  New  York.  She  had  a beautiful  face,  a tall,  graceful  per- 
son, and  elegant  manners.  She  was  familiar  with  fashionable  life 
abroad,  and  introduced  into  the  White  House  many  English  forms 
of  etiquette.  Her  receptions  were  numerous,  and  were  attended  by 
the  highest  and  most  exclusive  classes  of  the  city.  She  held  them 
in  the  East  Room,  which  was  also  used  for  the  state  dinners,’ and 
full  dress  was  always  required.  The  fetes  were  given  in  a style  of 
unusual  splendor,  and  the  most  ceremonious  usages  were  prescribed. 
Mrs.  Monroe  inaugurated  the  custom  of  the  President’s  wife  return- 
ing no  calls,  which  custom  has  been  very  generally  followed  to  the 
present  time.  She  had  several  children,  and  her  oldest  daughter, 
Maria  Monroe,  was  married  in  the  White  House  in  1820,  to  Samuel 
L.  Gouverneur,  of  New  York.  Monroe’s  administration  was  marked 
by  harmony,  his  domestic  life  was  happy,  and  he  retired  from  office 
in  1825  with  the  respect  of  his  countrymen. 

When  John  Quincy  Adams,  of  Massachusetts,  became  President 
the  sum  of  $14,000  was  appropriated  by  Congress  to  refurnish  the 
White  House,  and  the  East  Room  in  particular  was  fitted  up  in  a 
superb  manner.  President  Adams  was  a perfect  host.  His  long 
and  varied  experience  of  men  and  affairs,  at  home  and  abroad,  ena- 
bled him  to  preside  at  the  state  dinners  and  to  conduct  the  official 
ceremonies  with  infinite  grace.  To  people  outside  of  the  highest 
circles  he  was  apt  to  be  cold  and  forbidding,  and  his  repellant  man- 
ner often  created  hard  feeling.  No  more  precise  and  methodical 
man  ever  occupied  the  White  House.  His  life  was  regulated  by  the 
clock.  He  rose  at  four  in  summer  and  at  six  in  winter.  After  a cold 
bath  he  would  take  a long  walk,  generally  to  the  Capitol  and  around 
the  Capitol  park  and  back,  a distance  of  nearly  four  miles.  Then 
he  would  read  precisely  two  chapters  in  the  Bible,  and  then  look  at 
the  newspapers  until  breakfast,  at  nine.  He  went  into  the  executive 
office  at  ten,  and  remained  there  absorbed  in  work  until  four;  then 
would  come  another  walk,  and  then  dinner,  at  six.  In  the  evening  he 
attended  to  public  business,  unless  social  duties  intervened.  He  was 


THE  FAMOUS  ROOMS  OF  THE  WHITE  HOUSE, 


154 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


an  untiring  worker,  and  was  ever  acquiring  information  from  all 
sources,  which  he  carefully  stored  away  for  future  use.  In  person  he 
was  short  and  inclined  to  corpulency  ; his  eyes  were  bright  and  ex- 
pressive ; he  always  had  good  health,  and  his  face  was  full  of  whole- 
some color.  At  times,  with  those  he  dearly  loved,  he  would  display  a 
surprising  playfulness,  laughing  merrily,  uttering  odd  jokes,  and  even 
singing  snatches  of  old  songs  learned  in  his  youth ; but  these  sunny 
moments  were  too  infrequent.  His  manner  of  living  was  marked  by 
a certain  degree  of  elegance,  but  it  was  not  ostentatious.  In  1826 
his  son,  John  Quincy  Adams,  Jr.,  was  married  in  the  White  House 
to  his  cousin.  Miss  Johnson. 

It  has  been  declared  that  the  fashionable  circle  Mrs.  Louisa  Kath- 
arine Adams  drew  around  her  was  far  superior  in  elegance,  refine- 
ment, beauty,  and  worth  “ to  that  which  has  appeared  at  any  period 
since.”  She  greatly  aided  her  husband,  by  her  fine  manners,  kindli- 
ness, and  varied  accomplishments,  in  meeting  the  requirements  of  his 
position,  and  often  displayed  consummate  tact  in  her  efforts  to  make 
his  administration  popular. 

A great  crowd  attended  the  inauguration  of  Gen.  Andrew  Jack- 
son,  of  Tennessee,  on  the  4th  of  March,  1829,  and  the  gallant  soldier 
was  lustily  cheered  as  he  rode  up  Pennsylvania  Avenue  on  a spirited 
horse  after  the  inaugural  ceremony.  The  people  followed  the  Presi- 
dent into  the  White  House,  filling  the  state  parlors  to  overflowing. 
In  the  East  Room  a banquet  had  been  spread,  and  the  tables  were 
laden  with  choice  viands,  but  no  one  appearing  to  serve  the  guests, 
there  were  many  clamors  of  impatience,  and,  finally,  the  crowd, 
without  ceremony,  surrounded  the  tables  and  began  a tumultuous 
attack  on  the  food.  In  the  stru<j(ile  ice  cream  was  scattered  over 
the  costly  carpet,  glass  and  china  dishes  were  broken,  coffee  was 
spilled  on  the  satin  furniture,  and  a great  deal  of  damage  was  done. 
The  President  at  one  time  was  violently  pressed  against  the  wall  by 
the  surging  mob  striving  to  reach  the  tables,  and  was  only  saved 
from  injury  by  some  officials  who  linked  their  arms,  and  in  this  way 
formed  a living  barrier  atound  him.  Surely  it  was  a strange  scene 
to  witness  in  the  White  House. 

After  this  occurrence  the  practice  of  serving  refreshments  at  pub- 
lic receptions,  introduced  in  Monroe’s  administration,  was  speedily 
discontinued.  Although  Jackson  was  profuse  in  his  hospitality,  and 
quite  willing  the  public  should  enjoy  good  food  in  the  White  House, 
yet  the  throngs  at  his  receptions  were  so  great,  and  generally  so  un- 


S 


THE  PRESIDENTS. 


155 


mannerly,  that  he  was  compelled,  after  providing  refreshments  several 
times  and  seeing  his  guests  “ rush  at  and  strip  the  salvers  in  the  cor- 
ridor long  before  they  reached  the  banquet-room,”  to  cease  the  prac- 
tice, and  it  never  has  been  resumed. 

Jackson  opened  the  doors  of  the  White  House  to  everybody,  and 
visitors  of  all  sorts  poured  in  and  roamed  through  the  rooms  at  will. 
The  hearty  old  soldier  disliked  ceremony  even  more  than  Jefferson, 
and  saw  no  reason  why  the  presidential  abode  should  be  hedged 
about  with  formal  etiquette.  He  was  a man  of  the  people,  and  it  has 
been  said  that  “ all  his  vices  were  of  the  popular  sort.”  He  went 
about  the  house  and  grounds  smoking  a corn-cob  pipe,  and,  as  may 
be  supposed,  others  availed  themselves  of  the  privilege  of  smoking, 
even  in  the  state  parlors.  He  called  his  friends  by  their  Christian 
names,  and  they  invariably  addressed  him  as  “ General”  ; he  slapped 
people  on  the  back  familiarly,  joked  about  his  position,  and  would 
say,  “ By  the  Eternal,”  whenever  he  desired  to  emphasize  a sentence. 
His  hospitality  was  so  bountiful  that  the  proceeds  of  his  “ Hermitage  ” 
farm  in  Tennessee  had  to  be  constantly  used  to  pay  the  expenses  of 
his  entertainments.  At  his  dinners  there  was  no  special  ceremony, 
and  guests  were  simply  expected  to  be  social  and  merry,  and  have  a 
good  time.  After  dinner  they  did  not  immediately  depart,  as  had 
been  customary  in  Adams’  time,  but  remained  to  dance  or  otherwise 
enjoy  themselves. 

Many  of  his  dinners  to  intimate  friends  were  notable  for  fun  and 
frolic  at  the  table.  On  one  occasion  Webster  and  Van  Buren  were 
present,  and  the  latter  proposed  that  Webster  should  favor  the  com- 
pany with  a song.  To  this  he  agreed,  if  the  President  would  sing 
one  first.  Nothing  loath,  Jackson  immediately  began,  in  quaint,  dis- 
cordant notes,  his  favorite  song  of  “ Auld  Lang  Syne,”  singing  for  a 
few  minutes  without  interruption ; but  the  strange  discord  was  too 
much  for  the  company,  and  he  was  forced  to  stop  by  reason  of  the 
uproarious  laughter  that  went  round  the  board,  and  in  which  he 
heartily  joined.  Webster  and  Van  Buren  then  attempted  to  sing,  but 
their  efforts  produced  so  much  merriment  that  they  ceased,  and  grace- 
fully acknowledged  that  Jackson  was  the  better  vocalist. 

Jackson  was  more  than  six  feet  in  height,  but  was  very  slim,  not 
weighing  over  one  hundred  and  forty  pounds  during  the  time  he  was 
President.  He  had  strongly  marked  features,  bushy,  iron-gray  hair, 
brushed  high  above  his  forehead,  and  dark  blue  eyes,  which  would 
snap  and  sparkle  with  peculiar  lustre  whenever  he  was  excited.  He 


156 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


was  usually  plainly  and  rather  negligently  dressed,  and  when  out  of 
doors  carried  a stout  cane,  with  which  he  would  strike  the  ground 
incessantly  when  engaged  in  earnest  conversation.  He  went  about 
unattended,  and  liked  to  talk  freely  with  every  one  he  met.  When 
saluted  by  the  highest  or  the  humblest  a winning  smile  would  light 
up  his  strong  face,  and  he  would  say  in  cordial  tones,  “ How  do  you 
do,  sir  ; glad  to  see  you.”  He  was  fond  of  children,  and  would  stop 
them  on  the  street  and  chat  familiarly,  patting  their  heads  and  taking 
great  delight  in  their  innocent  prattle.  One  day  a friend  met  him 
entering  the  White  House  grounds  carrying  a little  girl  on  one  arm 
and  a dog  on  the  other.  In  explanation  he  said  that  the  child  was 
crying  because  her  dog  was  cold,  and  he  was  taking  them  into  the 
house  to  the  fire. 

His  wife,  Rachel  Donelson  Jackson,  with  whom  he  had  lived  hap- 
pily for  nearly  forty  years,  died  shortly  before  he  became  President, 
and  was  laid  to  rest  in  the  dress  she  had  made  to  wear  at  his  inauffu- 

O 

ration.  It  is  related  that  “ he  wore  her  miniature  next  his  heart  day 
and  night  until  his  death.”  Her  place  in  the  White  House  was  filled 
by  Mrs.  Emily  Donelson,  the  general’s  niece,  who  was  assisted  by 
the  wife  of  his  adopted  son,  Mrs.  Andrew  Jackson,  Jr.  They  were 
charming  women,  and  performed  their  duties  in  a manner  winning 
universal  praise. 

When  Jackson  held  his  farewell  reception,  Feb.  22,  1837,  he  pre- 
sented his  visitors  with  a parting  gift.  Friends  and  admirers  in  New 
York  had  sent  him  a monster  cheese,  larger  than  a hogshead  in 
circumference,  and  nearly  a yard  thick.  This  cheese  was  cut  by 
two  men  with  huge  knives  manufactured  from  saw-blades,  and  dis- 
tributed in  an  ante-room,  each  person  receiving  a piece  weighing 
about  three  pounds.  Everybody  was  very  merry  over  the  cheese, 
and  most  of  the  visitors  carried  home  this  remarkable  presidential 
souvenir. 

Martin  Van  Buren,  of  New  York,  who  succeeded  Jackson  as  Presi- 
dent, had  almost  lived  in  the  White  House  before  he  went  there  in 
1837  as  master  for  four  years.  He  had  been  Jackson’s  Secretary  of 
State,  and  was  always  believed  to  be  “ the  power  behind  the  throne.” 
He  had  been  constantly  at  Jackson’s  elbow,  and  as  a reward  for  his 
valuable  services,  the  gallant  commander  had  worked  hard  to  make 
him  his  successor.  Van  Buren  was  a little,  dapper  gentleman,  ele- 
gant and  refined,  the  pink  of  fashion  and  politeness,  but  withal  re- 
markably shrewd  as  a politician,  and  full  of  tact  and  practical  busi- 


THE  PRESIDENTS. 


157 


THE  WHITE  HOUSE,  FROM  THE  EAST. 


ness  capacity  in  dealing  with  public  aflairs.  It  was  customary  to  call 
him  the  American  Talleyrand,  and  his  cleverness  in  political  manage- 
ment was  much  discussed  in  those  days.  He  was  a widower,  having 
lost  his  wife  nearly  twenty  years  before  he  became  President,  and  his 
household  affairs  were  directed  by  his  son’s  wife,  Angelica  Single- 
ton  Van  Buren,  a sweet  young  Southern  beauty,  whose  grace  and 
amiability  won  the  hearts  of  all  who  met  her  in  the  White  House. 
Her  social  duties  were  performed  in  such  a pleasant  manner  that  she 
gained  extensive  popularity.  No  more  gracious  woman  ever  has 
been  at  the  head  of  a President’s  household. 

Gen.  William  Henry  Harrison,  of  Ohio,  “ the  hero  of  Tippe- 
canoe,” was  only  one  month  in  office.  He  became  President  in  1841, 
with  John  Tyler  as  Vice-President.  “ Old  Tip,”  as  he  was  affec- 
tionately called,  it  is  believed,  “ was  worried  to  death  ” by  importu- 
nate office-seekers,  not  having  the  faculty  of  repressing  them  pos- 
sessed by  some  of  the  latter-day  Presidents.  He  died  on  the  4th  of 
April,  and  his  funeral  was  the  first  to  occur  in  the  White  House. 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


158 

He  was  tall  and  graceful,  and  had  keen  black  eyes  and  a face  beam- 
ing with  good  nature.  Like  Jackson,  he  was  thoroughly  conscious 
that  the  White  House  was  the  property  of  the  Nation,  and  one  day 
when  a servant  showed  a plain,  humble  caller  into  a room  without  a 
fire,  he  took  him  to  task  for  it.  “ Why  did  you  not  show  the  man 
into  the  other  room,  where  it  is  warm  and  comfortable?”  he  asked. 
The  servant  thought  the  man  might  soil  the  carpet  with  his  muddy 
boots.  “Never  mind  the  carpet  another  time,”  said  Harrison  ; “the 
man  is  one  of  the  people,  and  the  carpet,  and  the  house,  too,  belong 
to  the  people.” 

John  Tyler,  who  succeeded  Harrison,  was  a Virginian  — an  in- 
tellectual, high-bred  gentleman,  tall  and  slender,  with  a light  com- 
plexion, brown  hair,  blue  eyes,  and  prominent  features.  He  was 
very  courteous  to  all  classes,  but  particularly  favored  men  of  learn- 
ing and  polite  letters,  and  the  Executive  Mansion  was  much  fre- 
quented by  this  class  during  his  administration.  He  appointed  Ed- 
ward Everett  Minister  to  England,  Washington  Irving  to  Spain, 
Caleb  Cushing  to  China,  and  made  John  Howard  Payne  consul  to 
Tunis.  His  tastes  were  polished,  and  he  had  the  urbanity  of  refined 
culture  and  association.  His  first  wife,  Letitia  Christian  T}der,  ap- 
peared at  but  one  reception,  and  that  was  on  the  occasion  of  the  mar- 
riage of  her  daughter.  She  died  in  Washington  in  1842,  and  Tyler 
lived  in  retirement  for  some  time.  Eight  months  before  the  expira- 
tion of  his  official  term  he  married  Miss  Julia  Gardiner,  of  New  York, 
and  the  wedding  reception  was  held  in  the  White  House.  Mrs.  Julia 
Tyler  was  the  first  woman  who  ever  entered  the  house  as  a Presi- 
dent’s bride.  Her  receptions  were  notable  for  elegance  and  refine- 
ment, and  her  short  career  as  the  “ first  lady  of  the  land”  was  a very 
brilliant  one. 

James  K.  Polk,  of  Tennessee,  the  eleventh  President,  was  in- 
augurated in  1845.  He  was  rather  below  the  medium  height,  and 
excessively  thin.  He  had  a large,  angular  brow,  and  sharp  gray 
eyes.  His  face  was  grave  and  sad,  and  his  hair  was  nearly  white. 
In  regard  to  his  thinness  a writer  of  that  date  said,  “If  his  clothes 
were  made  to  fit  he  would  be  but  the  merest  tangible  fraction  of  a 
President.  He  has  them,  therefore,  especially  his  coat,  made  two 
or  three  sizes  too  large  in  order  to  hide  his  spareness.”  His  wife, 
Sarah  Childress  Polk,  was  an  agreeable  hostess.  Her  dress  was  al- 
ways magnificent,  and  her  presence  commanding.  A gentleman  said 
to  her  one  day,  “ Madam,  there  is  a woe  pronounced  against  you 


THE  PRESIDENTS. 


159 


in  the  Bible ; for  it  is  written  there,  ‘ Woe  unto  you  when  all  men 
shall  speak  well  of  you.’” 

In  1849  Gen.  Zachary  Taylor,  of  Louisiana,  was  inaugurated, 
but  he  remained  in  office  only  sixteen  months  and  five  days.  He 
died  July  9,  1850,  of  cholera  morbus,  after  a few  days’  illness.  He 
was  a portly  gentleman,  with  a pleasant  face  and  a well  developed 
head  crowned  with  pure  white  hair.  He  had  mild,  beautiful  eyes, 
and  a soft,  pleasing  voice.  His  manner  was  kind,  and  whenever  he 
appeared  in  public  and  was  greeted  by  applause  he  would  wave  his 
hand  and  say,  “ Your  humble  servant,  ladies  ; Heaven  bless  you,  gen- 
tlemen.” His  wife,  Margaret  Taylor,  took  scarcely  any  part  in  the 
round  of  ceremonies  pertaining  to  official  life,  but  left  everything  to 
the  direction  of  her  daughter,  Betty  Taylor  Bliss,  a bright,  dainty 
little  lady,  who  won  golden  opinions  for  her  performance  of  the  role 
of  hostess,  and  the  White  House  was  a very  attractive  place  during 
her  reign. 

The  Vice-President,  Millard  Fillmore,  became  President  after  the 
death  of  General  Taylor,  taking  the  oath  of  office  on  the  loth  of 
July,  1850.  Fillmore  was  an  eminent  lawyer  of  Buffalo,  and  had 
worked  his  way  to  prominence  from  poverty  and  obscurity.  He  was 
tall  and  finely  proportioned,  and  was  considered  a very  handsome 
man.  He  was  agreeable  in  manner,  and  made  friends  readily  by  his 
charming  simplicity  and  frankness,  and  his  manifest  desire  to  do 
what  was  right.  During  his  administration  he  gave  many  grand  en- 
tertainments, and  in  the  congressional  season  always  had  weekly 
morning  and  evening  receptions.  His  wife,  Abigail  Powers  Fillmore, 
had  a fine  erect  figure,  a delicate,  intellectual  face,  and  silky  auburn 
hair  hanging  in  ringlets  about  her  head.  She  was  an  exemplary 
wife  and  mother,  and  had  been  a strong  support  to  her  husband  when 
he  was  a young  lawyer,  “ to  fortune  and  to  fame  unknown.”  She 
was  rather  shy  of  society,  much  preferring  the  companionship  of  a 
few  friends  and  the  solace  of  her  books  to  the  ceremonious  social 
practices  of  the  White  House.  At  President  Fillmore’s  request  Con- 
gress appropriated  considerable  money  to  furnish  the  oval  sitting- 
room  in  the  second  story  of  the  mansion  as  a library,  and  Mrs.  Fill- 
more selected  the  books  to  fill  the  cases.  She  was  a reader  and  a 
student,  and  in  the  library  spent  many  happy  hours. 

Franklin  Pierce,  of  New  Hampshire,  became  President  in  1853. 
He  came  to  Washington  in  very  simple  style,  and  when  his  baggage 
was  carried  into  the  White  House  it  was  found  to  consist  of  “a 


i6o 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


couple  of  old  hair  trunks,  which  might  have  been  the  property  of  a 
veteran  of  1812,  and  two  portmanteaus  scarcely  less  venerable  in 
appearance.”  At  his  first  reception  a great  throng  of  office-seekers 
appeared  and  pressed  their  claims  on  him.  “One  ambitious  fellow 
stepped  up  with  the  prefatory  remark  : ‘ I’m  an  applicant  for  office.’ 
‘ Glad  to  see  you,  sir,’  was  the  reply  ; ‘ good  morning,’  and  off  glided 
the  President.  One  applicant  managed  to  thrust  his  memorial  into 
the  President’s  hands,  but  it  was  dropped  like  a hot  coal.” 

Pierce  was  nearly  six  feet  in  height,  and  a man  of  fine  presence. 
There  was  a keen,  bright  expression  to  his  face,  and  his  eyes  were 
dark  and  penetrating.  He  delighted  in  horseback  riding,  and  nearly 
every  day  rode  long  distances  in  the  country  unattended.  Mrs.  Jane 
Appleton  Pierce  was  an  invalid,  but  she  faithfully  endeavored  to  per- 
form her  social  duties  as  the  lady  of  the  White  House.  She  was  a 
highly  cultivated  woman,  and  was  ardently  beloved  by  her  husband. 

The  fifteenth  President  was  James  Buchanan,  of  Pennsylvania,  a 
large,  muscular  man,  six  feet  in  height,  with  light  complexion,  hair 
and  eyes,  and  a serious  face.  He  was  a bachelor,  and  the  first 
one  to  occupy  the  Executive  chair.  During  his  administration, 
which  began  in  1857  and  continued  to  the  commencement  of  the 
Civil  War,  the  social  life  of  the  White  House  was  very  brilliant 
under  the  inspiration  of  his  niece.  Miss  Harriet  Lane.  The  city  was 
exceedingly  gay,  although  the  black  and  angry  clouds  of  war  were 
gathering  in  the  political  sky.  As  one  has  said,  “ people  danced  on 
the  edge  of  a volcano,  with  the  crust  heaving  under  their  feet.”  Miss 
Lane  made  the  White  House  more  nearly  like  a Republican  court 
than  it  had  been  since  the  ancient  regime — :the  days  of  powdered 
wigs,  embroidered  satins,  and  “ aristocratic  foppery.”  The  Presi- 
dent was  very  ceremonious,  and  largely  retained  the  form  and  color 
of  his  life  among  the  English  nobility  while  Minister  to  England. 
He  exacted  strict,  formal  etiquette,  and  was  displeased  at  familiarity. 
Miss  Lane  was  a beautiful  woman,  and  finely  educated  and  accom- 
plished. She  has  been  described  as  “ tall  and  commanding,  with  a 
perfectly  molded  shape,  with  a faultless  head,  finely  poised  and 
crowned  with  a mass  of  golden-brown  hair,  with  large  dark  blue 
eyes,  handsome  features,  the  mouth  particularly  lovely,  and  a skin  of 
milk  and  roses.”  Her  taste  in  dress  was  exquisite,  and  in  all  social 
observances  she  was  perfectly  schooled. 

Buchanan’s  last  reception  was  given  on  the  12th  ot  February, 
1861,  and  was  attended  by  a large  number  of  people.  The  Presi- 


FAMOUS  STATUES. 

1.  Statue  of  Civilization»  3.  Greenough’s  Statue  of  Washington. 

2.  The  Naval  Statue,  or  Monument  of  Peace.  4.  Brown’s  Statue  of  General  Scott. 


11 


i62 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


dent  received  his  guests  in  a very  amiable  manner,  and  Miss  Lane, 
elegantly  arrayed  in  pure  white  satin,  charmed  everybody  by  her 
graciousness.  The  state  parlors  were  decked  with  fragrant  flowers, 
the  ladies  present  made  a lavish  display  of  magnificent  toilets,  bright 
uniforms  of  the  army  and  navy  were  to  be  seen,  the  band  played 
patriotic  airs,  and  apparently  every  one  was  joyous. 

In  a short  time  after  this  night  of  pleasure  the  lurid  flames  of 
civil  war  burst  forth,  and  Abraham  Lincoln,  of  Illinois,  the  six- 
teenth President  of  the  United  States,  was  compelled  to  enter  Wash- 
ington secretly,  like  a thief  in  the  night,  to  assume  his  place  as  the 
head  of  the  Nation. 

At  the  first  evening  reception  held  by  President  Lincoln  there  was 
a notable  gathering.  It  took  place  on  March  8,  i86i,  and  long  be- 
fore the  doors  of  the  White  House  were  opened,  the  grounds  were 
filled  with  ladies  and  gentlemen  patiently  waiting  for  the  hour  of  the 
reception  to  arrive.  From  eight  until  eleven  o’clock  the  state  apart- 
ments were  crowded  to  overflowing  with  a brilliant  assemblage,  com- 
prising all  the  prominent  officials  of  the  new  administration,  the  dip- 
lomatic corps,  the  leading  officers  of  the  aimy  and  navy,  the  elite 
of  Washington  society,  and  hundreds  of  people  who  had  come  from 
distant  states  expressly  for  this  occasion.  The  tall,  grave  President, 
towering  above  the  majority  of  his  guests,  was  incessantly  engaged 
in  shaking  hands  and  acknowledging  the  congratulations  and  prom- 
ises of  support,  and  his  countenance  would  brighten  now  and  then 
with  pleasure  as  he  greeted  old  friends  and  heard  their  fervent  “ God 
bless  you,  Mr.  President.”  Mrs.  Lincoln  stood  at  the  side  of  her 
husband,  a proud  and  happy  woman,  cheerful,  smiling,  and  attrac- 
tive to  all  who  sought  her  acquaintance. 

I No  man  was  ever  more  courteous,  sympathetic,  and  considerate 
in  high  office  than  President  Lincoln,  and  the  humblest  persons  could 
approach  him  with  the  feeling  that  he  would  sympathize  with  their 
troubles,  and  relieve  them  if  it  was  possible.  The  years  of  war  caused 
him  to  have  an  anxious  face,  save  when  he  was  telling  a story  or  en- 
gaged in  a frolic  “ to  get  the  kinks  out,”  as  he  used  to  say.  lie  liked 
all  innocent  pleasures,  and  was  occasionally  very  jolly  when  he  had 
dropped  his  cares  for  an  hour  or  two  and  was  enjoying  himself  with 
his  family  and  friends.  He  was  never  known  to  speak  harshly  of 
any  one,  not  even  of  those  who  were  supposed  to  give  him  much  an- 
noyance, and  when  it  was  absolutely  necessary  for  him  to  give  a 
reprimand  he  would  do  so  in  a sort  of  serio-comic  way,  but  efi'ecb 


PRESIDENT  LINCOLN. 


163 

ively.  As  everybody  knows,  he  was  very  fond  of  a good  story,  and 
possessed  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  anecdotes  and  apt  illustrations, 
which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  using  on  many  occasions  to  make  his 
meaning  plain  to  those  who  were  rather  dull  of  comprehension,  or 
when  he  was  in  a sportive  mood  among  friends.  A little  story  from 
him  would  sometimes  have  a volume  of  significance.  He  was  a dili- 
gent worker,  spending  many  hours  of  the  day  at  his  desk,  and  often- 
times half  the  night.  Frequently  he  would  sit  in  profound  thought, 
completely  abstracted  from  outward  things,  or  he  would  rise  from  his 
chair  and  slowly  pace  the  floor  while  meditating,  his  lips  moving, 
and  his  long,  bony  hands  pointing  here  and  there  as  his  thoughts 
prompted.  No  one  was  permitted  to  disturb  him,  and  back  and  forth 
he  would  walk,  back  and  forth,  until  suddenly  he  would  seem  to  wake 
from  his  abstraction,  his  sombre,  rugged  face  would  become  almost 
beautiful  by  a tender  smile,  and  he  would  turn  to  the  person  nearest 
to  him  and  begin  to  relate  a humorous  anecdote. 

An  old  resident  of  Washington  who  was  an  intimate  friend  of 
Lincoln,  in  speaking  of  the  proclamation  of  emancipation,  has  said : 
“ It  is  hard  to  believe  now  that  very  nearly  half  of  the  Republicans 
were  opposed  to  the  issue  of  that  proclamation,  and  that  half  em- 
braced the  most  active  politicians.  A strong  effort  was  made  to  in- 
duce the  President  to  withdraw  the  proclamation.  It  was  issued  in 
the  summer  of  1862,  and  was  to  take  effect  on  the  ist  of  January, 
1863,  provided  the  rebels  did  not  in  the  mean  time  lay  down  their 
arms.  I never  felt  more  anxious  during  the  war  than  at  that  time, 
for  fear  that  Lincoln  would  be  induced  to  recall  the  proclamation. 
About  Christmas  time,  1862,  a week  or  so  before  the  proclamation 
was  to  take  effect,  if  not  recalled,  I called  on  the  President’s  private 
secretary  in  his  room  adjoining  the  President’s  room.  We  were  sit- 
ting conversing  before  the  fire,  when  Lincoln’s  door  opened,  he  walked 
into  the  room  and  took  a seat  before  the  fire  at  my  right  hand.  He 
slapped  me  on  the  shoulder  and  said,  ‘Well,  my  friend,  the  import- 
ant day  draws  near.’  ‘ Yes,’  I replied,  ‘ and  I hope  there  will  be  no  • 
backing  out  or  backing  down.’  ‘ Well,’  he  said,  ‘ I don’t  know  about 
that.  Peter  thought  he  would  not  deny  his  master,  but  he  did.’  I 
replied,  ‘ I think  you  will  do  better  than  Peter  did.’  And  he  did.” 

Lincoln  took  great  delight  in  theatricals,  and  said  they  rested  and 
refreshed  him  more  than  anything  else.  Whenever  he  could  leave 
his  harassing  business  he  would  visit  the  theatre  for  an  hour  or  two 
of  recreation.  He  occasionally  went  behind  the  scenes  and  watched 


164 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


the  actors  at  their  work,  and  would  seem  to  greatly  enjoy  all  he  saw 
in  that  curious  mimic  world.  He  had  a box  at  Ford’s  old  theatre,, 
and  on  many  evenings  sat  in  it  alone,  hidden  by  the  curtains,  the 
audience  having  no  suspicion  that  he  was  present.  On  one  evening 
“Tad”  Lincoln,  the  President’s  jolly  little  boy,  whom  everybody 
loved,  accompanied  his  father  to  the  theatre  and  went  in  among  the 
actors.  One  of  them  dressed  him  in  a ragged  suit  and  sent  him  on  the 
stage  in  a certain  scene.  The  President,  who  was  in  his  box,  looked 
at  the  boy  in  astonishment  for  a few  moments,  and  then  threw  up  his 
hands,  leaned  back  in  his  chair,  and  burst  into  a roar  of  laughter 
which  was  heard  all  over  the  theatre,  thus  revealing  his  presence  to 
the  audience.  Instantly  there  was  a round  of  applause,  and  he  was 
compelled  to  acknowledge  it.  Tad  ran  off  the  stage  when  the  ap- 
plause began,  changed  his  dress  and  went  to  his  father’s  box,  and  the 
President  put  his  arms  around  him  and  lovingly  kissed  him  over  and 
over  again. 

The  mighty  concerns  of  the  war  interfered  with  the  social  life  of 
the  White  House,  but  there  were  some  magnificent  fetes,  and  the  oc- 
casional public  receptions  were  very  agreeable.  There  was  always- 
a proper  amount  of  etiquette,  but  none  of  the  “ court  ceremony”  in- 
troduced by  the  former  President.  At  all  the  entertainments  Lincoln 
endeavored  to  make  everything  pleasant  for  his  guests,  and  was  quite- 
successful  as  a host,  his  manner  having  a quaint  simplicity  which  was 
very  charming.  He  was  six  feet  four  inches  in  height,  and  his  strong,, 
sinewy  body  was  capable  of  great  endurance.  His  arms  and  legs 
were  very  long,  and  he  was  awkward  in  his  movements.  His  face 
was  thin  and  sallow,  his  forehead  high  and  well  developed,  and  his 
hair  black  and  abundant.  Usually  his  dark  gray  eyes  had  a sad  ex- 
pression, but  now  and  then  they  would  sparkle  with  roguish  fun. 

A sagacious  critic  of  Lincoln’s  administration  has  said  that 
“ during  all  the  perilous  years  of  civil  war  he  managed  the  Ship 
of  State  with  remarkable  skill,  prudence,  and  wisdom.”  Second 
only  to  Washington  in  the  hearts  of  his  countrymen,  his  “ great 
name  will  flow  on  with  broadening  time  forever.” 

Mrs.  Mary  Todd  Lincoln  shared  the  anxieties  of  the  war  with 
her  husband,  rejoiced  in  every  success,  and  was  a loving  companion 
to  the  great-hearted  President.  She  was  a frequent  visitor  to  the 
hospitals  in  which  scores  of  wounded  soldiers  were  lying  in  pain  and 
distress,  and  gladdened  their  lonely  hours  by  her  presence  and  ten- 
der solicitude  for  tlieir  comfort.  The  conservatory  of  the  White 
House  was  stripped  of  its  flowers,  tliat  the  “ poor  sick  boys”  might 


JOHNSON  — GRANT  — HAYES. 


165 

have  them  by  their  bedsides,  and  delicacies  of  all  sorts  were  taken 
from  the  White  House  kitchen  to  many  a hospital,  to  tempt  the  ap- 
petites of  the  soldiers.  Day  by  day  the  President’s  carriage,  filled 
with  flowers,  fruits,  and  baskets  of  delicacies,  conveyed  the  sympa- 
thetic, devoted  woman  to  the  scenes  of  suffering.  She  affectionately 
bathed  the  brows  of  the  hapless  ones  stricken  down  in  battle,  con- 
soled them  as  best  she  could,  wrote  letters  to  parents  and  friends  in 
far-off  states,  and  was  indeed  a blessed  ministering  angel  at  many  a 
sorrowful  couch.  For  this,  if  for  nothing  more,  she  should  be  held 
in  loving  remembrance  : gentle,  compassionate  one,  whose  own  bit- 
ter sorrows  made  her  after  years  dark  and  comfortless. 

Vice-President  Andrew  Johnson,  of  Tennessee,  became  President 
at  the  death  of  Lincoln,  and  was  sworn  into  office  by  Chief  Justice 
Chase  on  Saturday  morning,  April  15,  1865,  at  the  Kirkwood  House, 
in  Washington.  After  a proper  period  of  mourning  President  John- 
son opened  the  White  House  to  society,  and  made  constant  efforts  to 
dispel  the  gloom  arising  from  Lincoln’s  death,  believing  that  “the 
new  glad  days  of  peace  ” should  be  joyously  celebrated.  During 
the  greater  part  of  his  administration  he  entertained  liberally,  and 
introduced  the  pleasing  feature  of  children’s  parties.  The  White 
House  was  often  filled  with  little  ones  enjoying  “ a real  party,”  witli 
pretty  flowers,  fine  music,  and  refreshments,  and  with  the  President 
to  do  them  honor.  Their  young,  gleeful  voices  rang  through  the 
ancient  halls,  and  their  blithesome  games  and  frolics  greatly  de- 
lighted the  elders. 

As  the  President’s  wife,  Mrs.  Eliza  McCardle  Johnson,  was  an 
invalid,  the  management  of  the  house  was  given  over  to  her  daugh- 
ters, Mrs.  Patterson  and  Mrs.  Stover,  who  successfully  carried  out 
the  customary  social  practices.  President  Johnson  was  above  the 
medium  height,  and  rather  stout.  He  had  brown  hair,  and  light,  ex- 
pressive eyes,  and  a face  denoting  decision  of  character. 

The  White  House  was  completely  refurnished  when  Gen.  Ulysses 
S.  Grant,  of  Illinois,  became  President  in  1869,  and  for  eight  years  it 
was  the  scene  of  unceasing  festivity.  President  Grant  and  family 
sought  in  all  ways  to  make  the  house  attractive  to  the  gay  society  of 
“ the  city  of  palaces,”  and  the  dinners  and  fetes  were  upon  a splen- 
did scale.  Mrs.  Julia  Dent  Grant  proved  an  admirable  hostess,  easily 
winning  the  esteem  of  all  who  enjoyed  her  hospitality. 

In  1877  Rutherford  B.  Hayes,  of  Ohio,  began  his  term  as  Presi- 
dent. At  his  first  reception  there  was  a very  large  assemblage. 
Mrs.  Lucy  Webb  Hayes  “ received”  in  a plain  black  silk  dress,  and 


l66  PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 

it  was  said  that  “ Mrs.  Madison  in  her  time,  in  her  pink  satin  and 
feathers,  commanded  hardly  more  admiration.”  On  the  31st  of  De- 
cember, 1877,  President  Hayes  and  wife  celebrated  the  twenty-fifth 
anniversary  of  their  marriage  — the  first  “ silver  wedding  ” ever  held 
in  the  White  House.  One  hundred  guests  were  present,  and  the 
“ happy  pair”  received  many  hearty  congratulations. 

James  A.  Garfield,  of  Ohio,  assumed  the  Presidency  in  1881. 
His  interesting  family  included  his  venerable  mother,  Mrs.  Eliza 
Garfield,  who  was  the  first  mother  of  a President  to  have  a residence 
in  the  White  House  during  the  whole  period  of  its  existence.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  relate  the  story  of  the  sudden  closing  of  Garfield’s 
promising  career,  for  it  is  firmly  impressed  on  the  memorv  of  the 
American  people. 

Chester  A.  Arthur,  of  New  York,  Vice-President,  succeeded  to 
the  Presidency  on  Sept.  19,  1881,  and  served  to  the  end  of  the  presi- 
dential term,  1885. 

The  list  of  occupants  of  the  White  House  ends  at  present  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Grover  Cleveland,  of  New  York.  Mr.  Cleveland 
became  President  on  the  4th  of  March,  1885.  The  marriage  of 
President  Cleveland  and  Miss  Frances  Folsom  on  the  evening  of 
June  2,  1886,  was  an  event  of  great  interest  to  the  people  through- 
out the  country.  It  was  the  first  marriage  of  a President  in  the 
history  of  this  famous  residence  of  the  Presidents. 


ALONG  TIIK  CMKSAPKAKK  AND  OHIO  CANAL. 


CHAPTER  X 


I HE  DEPARTMENT  OF  STATE  —THE  SECRETARY  OF  STATE  AND  THE  OFFICIALS 
— VARIOUS  DIVISIONS  OF  THE  DEPARTMENT  — STATE,  WAR,  AND  NAVY 
BUILDING  — ANCIENT  RECORDS  — THE  DIPLOMATIC  AND  CONSULAR  SERVICE 

— FOREIGN  LEGATIONS  AT  THE  CAPITAI THE  ORIENTAL  AMBASSADORS  — 

DIPLOMATIC  FETES. 

The  Department  of  State  is  the  first  of  the  executive  depart- 
ments of  the  government.  It  has  the  supervision  of  all  for- 
eign affairs,  and  of  all  affairs  concerning  the  states  of  the 
Union.  It  directs  the  diplomatic  and  consular  service,  has 
charge  of  all  international  claims  commissions,  issues  passports,  pub- 
lishes and  preserves  all  the  laws  enacted  by  Congress,  and  has  other 
important  duties.  At  first  the  foreign  affairs  of  the  government  were 
directed  by  commissioners,  but  in  1789  Congress  passed  an  act  creat- 
ing the  Department  of  State,  and  authorizing  the  appointment  of  a 
chief  official  with  the  title  of  Secretary  of  State.  For  a time  the 
department  issued  all  patents  and  copyrights,  had  charge  of  the  work 
of  taking  the  census,  and  supervised  the  affairs  of  the  territories.  As 
now  constituted  it  has  a Diplomatic  Bureau,  a Consular  Bureau,  a 
Bureau  of  Indexes  and  Archives,  a Bureau  of  Accounts,  a Bureau 
of  Statistics,  a Bureau  of  Rolls,  and  several  minor  divisions.  The 
entire  business  is  carried  on  in  a strictly  confidential  manner,  and  all 
persons  connected  with  it  are  required  to  maintain  the  closest  secrecy 
in  regard  to  every  matter  which  comes  to  their  knowledge. 

The  Secretary  of  State  is  the  first  in  rank  of  the  members  of  the 
President’s  Cabinet,  and  on  account  of  his  office,  and  from  long  cus- 
tom, his  relations  with  the  President  are  very  intimate.  His  com- 
pensation is  $8,000  per  year.  He  has  the  general  supervision  of  the 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


1 68 

Department  of  State,  and,  under  the  direction  of  the  President,  nego- 
tiates treaties  with'  foreign  powers,  decides  the  various  questions  aris- 
ing from  the  relations  of  the  United  States  with  other  countries,  and 
is  charged  with  the  execution  of  all  the  state  business.  There  is  a 

o 

first  assistant  Secretary  of  State,  who  has  a compensation  of  $4,500 
per  year,  and  there  are  two  other  assistant  secretaries  who  have  $3,- 
500  each.  The  assistant  secretaries  have  the  supervision  of  the  dip- 
lomatic and  consular  correspondence,  and  perform  other  duties  as- 
signed them  by  the  Secretary  of  State.  There  is  a chief  clerk,  with 
a salary  of  $2,750,  who  is  in  charge  of  the  employes  of  the  depart- 
ment; and  there  are  six  chiefs  of  the  bureaus,  with  salaries  of  $2,- 
100,  and  nearly  seventy  clerks  and  employes.  Congress  annually 
appropriates  $113,000  for  the  compensation  of  the  officials  and  others, 
and  about  $20,000  for  tbe  miscellaneous  expenses  of  the  department. 

Since  1875  the  department  has  occupied  the  southern  portion  of 
.the  imposing  State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  which  stands  directly 
west  of  the  White  House,  on  part  of  the  government  reservation 
called  “The  President’s  Grounds.”  This  building,  in  massive  pro- 
portions and  architectural  beaut}^  bas  few  equals  in  tbe  world.  It 
was  begun  in  1871,  and  has  cost  very  nearly  $12,000,000.  It  was 
designed  by  A.  B.  Mullett,  and  was  constructed  in  tbe  style  of  the 
Italian  renaissance,  the  material  being  Maine  and  Virginia  granite. 
Over  a sub-basement  and  basement  are  four  stories,  surmounted  by  a 
mansard  roof  of  artistic  design.  From  north  to  south,  including  the 
projections,  the  building  is  five  hundred  and  sixty  feet ; exclusive 
of  projections,  four  hundred  and  seventy-one  ^feet.  From  east  to 
west  it  is  three  hundred  and  forty-two  feet ; exclusive  of  projec- 
tions, two  hundred  and  fifty-three  feet.  Its  greatest  height  is  one 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet.  There  are  four  facades,  alike  in 
design  and  construction,  and  four  grand  entrances  through  lofty 
pavilions  reached  by  broad  flights  of  stone  steps.  Huge  blocks  of 
granite,  each  over  twenty  tons  in  weight,  form  the  platforms  to  the 
entrances.  The  greatest  possible  care  has  been  taken  in  the  con- 
struction, and  the  building  is  entirely  fire  proof.  All  the  parts  are 
in  harmony,  the  ornamentation  is  a tasteful  combination  of  the  classic 
and  modern  methods,  and  the  result  is  an  almost  perfect  specimen  of 
architecture. 

The  interior  of  the  building  has  been  constructed  in  a very  mag- 
nificent and  yet  entirely  substantial  manner.  There  are  wide  stair- 
cases of  granite  with  bronze  balusters,  long,  spacious  corridors,  and 


XllK  STATE,  WAR,  AND  NAVY  BUILDING. 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


170 

innumerable  apartments,  richly  frescoed  and  adorned,  and  furnished 
with  every  convenience  that  could  be  suggested  for  the  transacting 
of  the  business  of  the  three  departments  for  which  the  building  was 
erected.  The  War  Departm.ent' occupies  the  whole  of  the  northern 
and  western  portion,  and  the  Navy  Department  the  eastern. 

Very  large  and  elegant  apartments  are  occupied  by  the  Depart- 
ment of  State.  On  the  second  floor  are  the  apartments  of  the  Sec- 
retary of  State  and  his  assistants.  They  are  flnely  painted  in  dis- 
temper, and  splendidly  furnished. 

The  diplomatic  reception-room,  in  which  the  foreign  ministers 
have  audience  with  the  Secretary  of  State,  is  sumptuous  in  its  ap- 
pointments. It  is  sixty  feet  long,  and  twenty  feet  wide.  A great 
mirror  in  an  ebony  and  gold  frame  reaches  from  the  floor  to  the  ceil- 
ing ; the  furniture  is  of  ebony,  and  the  upholstery  of  bluish-brown 
brocade.  The  walls  are  painted  in  Egyptian  style,  and  the  floor  is 
tessellated  and  partially  covered  by  oriental  rugs.  Paintings  and 
busts  adorn  the  walls  and  mantels,  and  two  large  chandeliers  hang 
from  the  ceiling.  The  ante-room  is  also  richly  decorated  and  fur- 
nished. 

The  Bureau  of  Indexes  and  Archives  occupies  large  apartments 
excellently  arranged  for  its  business.  This  bureau  has  charge  of  all 
the  letters  and  documents  of  the  department,  and  hundreds  of  official 
papers  are  carefully  examined  and  filed  every  day  by  its  employes. 
A most  perfect  system  is  used,  and  although  the  accumulation  of 
state  documents  during  the  past  century  is  vast  almost  beyond  belief, 
anything  that  is  wanted  can  be  produced  in  a very  short  time. 
Whenever  the  officials  of  the  department  desire  certain  papers  they 
apply  to  this  bureau.  The  demand  is  constant,  and  embraces  an 
extensive  range  of  subjects  daily.  Papers  of  the  widest  variety  and 
character  in  reference  to  every  country  in  the  world  with  which  the 
government  has  official  relations,  and  also  to  all  parts  of  the  United 
States,  are  called  for  to  be  used  in  the  settlement  of  the  multifarious 
questions  under  consideration.  The  correspondence  with  foreign 
ministers  and  consuls  is  enormous,  and  the  miscellaneous  corre- 
spondence is  also  large  and  important.  All  the  letters  are  opened 
and  indexed  in  this  bureau  before  the}^  are  delivered  to  the  cliief 
officials  for  their  inspection. 

Several  apartments  of  the  bureau  contain  many  precious  archives 
of  the  Nation.  The  first  draft  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
and  of  tlie  Federal  Constitution  are  here  carefully  preserved,  Wasli- 


THE  STATE  DEPARTMENT. 


171 

ington’s  commission  as  Commander-in-chief  of  the  American  Army, 
and  a host  of  documents  pertaining  to  the  Revolution  and  the  early 
days  of  the  government,  are  to  be  seen.  The  letters  and  papers  of 
Washington,  Jefferson,  Madison,  and  Monroe,  and  some  of  the  other 
Presidents,  are  preserved  in  large  volumes,  many  of  the  manuscripts 
appearing  as  clear  and  distinct  as  if  written  yesterday.  Autograph 
letters  from  kings  and  queens,  princes,  statesmen,  and  historical  per- 
sonages who  have  flourished  during  the  past  one  hundred  years,  are 
to  be  found  in  these  collections.  Here  are  the  original  copies  of  all 
the  laws  enacted  by  Congress,  and  of  all  the  treaties  made  by  the 
United  States  with  foreign  nations,  from  the  first,  with  France  in 
1778,  and  the  second,  with  England  — the  treaty  of  peace,  bearing 
date  of  Sept.  3,  1783  — down  to  those  of  recent  years.  One  treaty 
with  Turkey  is  gorgeously  embellished  with  golden  letters  ; but  the 
most  unique  treaty  in  the  collection  is  one  with  Japan,  which  is  con- 
tained in  a costly  lacquered  case  covered  with  silk.  The  quaint  Jap- 
anese characters,  covering  many  pages  of  fine  paper,  are  clearly  and 
boldly  portrayed.  The  royal  signature  appears  at  the  top,  and  you 
read  from  tlie  bottom.  The  treaty  was  brought  to  Washington  by 
two  officials  of  high  rank,  who  were  charged  with  its  safe  deliveiy 
on  peril  of  their  lives.  One  day  they  triumphantly  marched  into  the 
Department  of  State  bearing  aloft  on  long  bamboo  poles  a queerly- 
constructed  box,  in  which  was  the  important  document.  Glad,  in- 
deed, were  they  to  have  escaped  the  “ disastrous  chances”  of  land 
and  sea,  and  when  the  royal  agreement  finally  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Secretary  of  State  they  appeared  greatly  relieved,  for  their 
heads  were  no  longer  in  danger. 

The  great  seal  of  the  United  States  is  kept  in  one  of  the  apart- 
ments. This  seal  is  affixed  to  all  executive  proclamations,  to  all  war- 
rants of  extradition  or  pardon,  and  to  all  commissions  issued  to  min- 
isters and  consuls  to  foreign  countries. 

The  library  of  the  department  is  in  the  third  story.  It  is  in  a 
spacious  room  witli  three  balconies,  and  is  well  lighted  by  a dome 
of  glass.  The  room  is  constructed  entirely  of  iron,  wrought  in  grace- 
ful forms,  and  beautifully  decorated  in  pearl  and  gold  tints.  Jef- 
ferson established  the  library,  and  many  of  the  oldest  books  con- 
tain his  autograph.  On  the  shelves  are  over  thirty  thousand  volumes, 
comprising  the  laws  of  all  the  states,  and  works  relating  to  history, 
diplomacy,  and  international  affairs.  They  are  in  many  languages, 
and  are  extensively  used  by  the  members  of  the  foreign  legations  in 
Washington,  and  by  the  officials  of  the  department. 


172 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


The  diplomatic  and  consular  service  requires  a large  force  of 
officials  stationed  in  the  important  cities  and  towns  throughout  the 
world.  The  expenditure  for  this  service  — for  what  is  termed  “the 
foreign  intercourse”  — is  about  $2,500,000  per  year.  Thirty -three 
legations,  with  ministers,  secretaries,  and  attaches,  and  more  than 
nine  hundred  consular  offices,  are  maintained  by  the  United  States. 
The  ministers  at  London,  Paris,  Berlin,  and  St.  Petersburg  receive 
salaries  of  $17,500  per  year  ; those  at  Vienna,  Rome,  Madrid,  Pek- 
ing, Rio  de  Janeiro,  Tokei,  and  the  City  of  Mexico,  $12,000  ; those  at 
Guatemala,  Santiago,  and  Lima,  $10,000;  those  in  minor  countries, 
$7,500  and  $5,000.  The  consuls-general  at  London,  Paris,  Havana, 
and  Rio  de  Janeiro  receive  $6,000. 

There  are  twenty-five  foreign  legations  in  Washington,  most  of 
them  occupying  large,  finely  furnished  mansions.  They  represent 
all  the  prominent  countries,  and  have  many  attaches,  and  a throng 
of  servants.  Numerous  receptions  and  dinners  are  given  by  the 
diplomatic  corps,  and  at  certain  seasons  the  members  are  enter- 
tained at  the  White  House.  Then  they  wear  their  gaudy  court  cos- 
tumes, and  display  their  glittering  orders  and  decorations.  By  the 
United  States  statutes  they  are  exempt  from  arrest,  and  no  process 
of  law  can  reach  them.  This  immunity  extends  to  all  the  members 
of  a diplomat’s  family,  and  even  to  the  servants,  if  they  are  not  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States. 

The  Chinese  Legation  occupies  a tine  mansion,  in  which  there  is 
ample  room  for  the  grand  entertainments  given  by  the  Chinese  Min- 
ister during  the  winter.  It  is  furnished  entirely  in  the  Mongolian 
style  of  high  official  life,  and  its  apartments  are  filled  with  rare  and 
curious  articles.  The  walls  of  the  parlors  are  hung  with  Chinese 
tapestry  of  delicate  texture,  elegantly  embroidered  with  the  sacred 
maxims  of  Confucius  upon  the  virtues  of  charity,  honesty,  and  jus- 
tice ; and  massive  oriental  vases  of  peculiar  design  mingle  their 
bright  colors  with  the  gold  and  scarlet  of  the  unique  and  magnificent 
furniture.  One  strangely  fashioned  vase  has  been  in  the  possession 
of  the  minister’s  family  for  more  than  two  centuries.  There  are  silk- 
embroidered  screens,  worked  by  Chinese  ladies,  and  in  various  nooks 
are  well-filled  hook-cases  with  costly  volumes  of  the  Chinese  classics. 
The  parlors,  and  many  of  tlie  other  apartments,  are  the  very  perfec- 
tion of  bric-a-hrac  and  oriental  adornment,  and  are  very  attractive 
to  guests.  The  smoking-room  is  furnished  with  a varied  collection 
of  Cliinese  pipes,  and  has  comfortable  divans,  and,  in  fact,  is  a ver- 


FOliEiGN  LEGATIONS. 


173 


liable  smoker’s  paradise.  In  the 
halls  are  groups  of  Chinese  stat- 
uary, some  being  of  a humorous 
character,  modeled  with  much 
skill  and  fidelity  to  nature.  At 
the  minister’s  banquets  the 
tables  are  spread  in  grand 
style,  with  exquisite  oriental 
ware,  silver  and  gold  dishes, 
and  many  unique  articles 
' of  table  service.  Numer- 
ous Eastern  delicacies  are' 


FRENCH  LEGATION. 

furnish  ed, 
and  first  chop 
Chinese  tea, 
rarely  to  be  had 
in  the  United 
States,  is  served 
in  quaint  wicker- 
covered  pots. 

The  minister  re- 
ceives his  guests 
attired  in  his 
gorgeous  court 

dress  of  colored  silks,  and  the  attaches  of  the  legation,  numbering 
more  than  a dozen,  appear  in  silken  robes  of  superb  quality  and  bril- 
liant hues. 

The  Japanese  Minister  has  a large  residence  furnished  in  the 
picturesque  fashion  of  his  country,  and  within  its  walls  are  many 
quaint  and  beautiful  articles.  There  are  a number  of  young  Jap- 
anese gentlemen  of  good  education  and  refined  manners  attached  to 
the  legation.  The  minister  gives  brilliant  receptions  and  banquets, 
and  is  fond  of  society. 

Fetes  are  frequently  given  by  the  English,  French,  Spanish.. 


RESIDENCE  OF  THE  GERMAN  LEGATION. 


174 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Russian,  and  Mexican  legations.  The  residence  of  the  English 
Minister  was  erected  by  his  government,  and  is  one  of  the  notable 
mansions  of  Washington.  It  has  broad  halls,  a great  ball-room 
illuminated  by  three  chandeliers,  a spacious  dining-room,  and  ele- 
gant parlors.  It  is  situated  on  Connecticut  Avenue. 

Upon  their  arrival  in  Washington  the  members  of  the  diplomatic 
corps  present  themselves  to  the  President  and  the  Secretary  of  State, 
and  then  make  ceremonious  calls  upon  the  Vice-President,  the 
Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  the  members  of  the  Cab- 
inet, the  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  the  Senators.  They 
call  on  the  President  on  New  Year’s  day.  During  the  winter  the 
Secretary  of  State  gives  a series  of  dinners,  at  which  all  the  foreign 
ambassadors  appear. 


MASSACIIUSKTTS  AVICNUK.  SHOWING  CHURCH  OR  THIC  ASCENSION. 


CHAPTER  XI 


THE  TREASURY  DEPARTMENT  — THE  IMMENSE  STORE  HOUSE  OF  THE  GOVERN- 
MENT FUNDS  — PRINCIPAL  SUB-DIVISIONS  — SECRETARY  OE'  1 HE  TREASURY 
AND  HIS  WORK  — THE  TREASURY  “ AUTOCRAT  ” — THE  MASSIVE  MONEY- 
VAULTS  — COUNTING  MILLIONS  OF  DOLLARS  — SINGULAR  FACTS  OF  THE. 
REDEMPTION  DIVISION  — MANUFACTURING  THE  NATIONAL  CURRENCY  — 
THE  SECRET  SERVICE  — TREASURY  TRANSACTIONS. 

During  the  session  of  the  First  Congress  under  the  Con- 
stitution, in  1789,  an  act  was  passed  to  establish  the  Treas- 
ury Department,  which  was  to  have  the  entire  charge  of 
the  finances  of  the  government.  Previous  to  that  time 
commissioners  had  performed  the  duties  appertaining  to  the  collec- 
tion of  public  moneys  and  the  settlement  of  public  accounts,  but 
there  had  been  no  well-regulated  and  competent  system.  By  the  new 
act  the  officials  authorized  were  a Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  who 
was  to  be  the  financial  head  of  the  government,  and  to  have  a seat 
in  the  President’s  Cabinet ; an  assistant  secretary,  a comptroller,  an 
auditor,  a treasurer,  and  a register.  When  the  government  removed 
to  Washington  in  1800,  a small  wooden  building  was  erected  for  tlie 
Treasury,  but  it  was  burned  to  the  ground  by  the  British  troops  in  1814. 
Another  building  was  speedily  constructed,  and  remained  until  March 
31,  1833,  when  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  fire.  It  was  proposed 
to  locate  the  present  Treasury  Building  farther  down  the  tract  on 
which  the  other  buildings  had  been  erected,  in  order  that  the  White 
House  might  be  seen  from  the  Capitol ; but  the  story  is  that 
President  Jackson  became  impatient  at  the  delay  of  Robert  Mills, 
the  architect,  in  selecting  a location,  and  walked  over  the  ground 
one  morning,  planted  his  cane  in  the  extreme  northeastern  cor- 


176 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ner,  and  said,  “Here,  right  here,  I want  the  corner-stone  laid!” 
And  the  stone  was  laid  there,  and  the  huge  structure  was  erected 
where  it  breaks  the  continuity  of  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  and  prevents 
the  President  from  looking  toward  Capitol  Hill  from  the  windows  of 
his  I'esidence. 

In  1841  the  Treasury  Building  was  completed.  It  was  constructed 
of  Virginia  freestone,  and  on  its  eastern  fagade  a lofty  colonnade  of 
thirty  Ionic  columns  was  placed.  In  1855  it  was  found  necessary 
tp  add  extensions,  and  designs  for  these  were  made  by  Thomas  U. 
Walter.  The  extensions  were  constructed  of  Maine  granite,  and 
were  finished  in  1869.  At  that  time  the  total  cost  of  the  building  was 
nearly  $7,000,000,  and  since  then  large  sums  have  been  expended 
in  alterations  and  interior  decorations.  The  building  extends  four 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  on  Fifteenth  Street,  and  has  a frontage  of  twm 
hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue.  It  is  Grecian 
in  architecture,  with  various  modifications.  Over  a rustic  basement 
are  three  stories,  surmounted  by  a balustrade.  There  are  four  fa- 
cades, those  on  the  north,  west,  and  south  having  massive  porticoes 
of  Ionic  columns.  The  wnlls  of  the  extensions  are  composed  of 
pilasters,  with  belt  courses,  resting  on  the  basement  story.  The 
massive  pilasters,  monolithic  columns,  and  blocks  of  granite  were 
quarried  on  Dix  Island,  near  Rockland,  Maine,  and  brought  to  Wash- 
ington in  vessels  of  peculiar  construction.  Each  portico  has  a broad 
flight  of  steps  descending  to  a spacious  platform,  on  each  side  of 
which  is  a flower-garden.  The  northern  front  is  ornamented  with  a 
stone  fountain.  The  building  is  very  substantial,  and  its  great  size 
and  the  superb  architectural  design  of  its  extensions,  give  it  a ma- 
jestic appearance.  Seemingly,  it  should  be  large  enough  for  any 
possible  business  that  the  Treasury  Department  might  have  to  do, 
but  this  is  not  the  case.  It  is  far  too  small,  and  at  present  some  of 
the  Treasury  bureaus  have  to  be  accommodated  elsewhere  for  lack 
of  room  in  this  vast  structure. 

If  the  business  of  the  department  continues  to  increase  during  the 
next  ten  years  as  rapidly  as  it  has  the  past  ten,  greater  extensions  to 
the  Treasury  Building  will  be  necessary  to  accommodate  the  force 
of  employes  which  will  be  recpiired  for  the  financial  service  of  the 
government.  The  country  is  growing  so  fast  that,  year  by  year,  the 
business  of  the  Treasury  increases  enormously.  Fifty  years  ago  a 
few  men  were  able  to  attend  to  everything  connected  with  the  finances 
in  quite  an  easy  manner ; now  an  army  of  oHicials,  clerks,  and  cm- 


Till-:  TREASURY  BUILDING. 


178 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ployes  drive  the  work  to  the  utmost  of  their  strength,  but  are  unable 
to  dispose  of  it  promptly,  and  there  are  many  embarrassing  accumu- 
lations. The  settlement  of  some  public  accounts  is  often  delayed  for 
months,  from  sheer  inability  to  cope  with  the  work.  Army  paymas- 
ters’ accounts  will  average  two  years  in  settlement,  so  that  a pay- 
master cannot  know  how  he  stands  on  the  Treasury  books  until  two 
years  after  he  renders  his  accounts,  and  neither  does  the  Treasury 
Department  know  until  after  the  same  period  whether  the  paymaster 
has  properly  accounted  for  the  thousands  of  dollars  advanced  to  him 
for  disbursement. 

The  Treasury  Building  contains  nearly  two  hundred  rooms,  ex- 
clusive of  the  basement.  Most  of  the  rooms  are  spacious  and  well 
arranged,  and  those  occupied  by  the  principal  officials  are  hand- 
somely furnished.  The  halls  and  corridors  are  wide  and  well  lighted, 
and  all  of  the  interior  furnishing  is  substantial  and  often  elegant. 
There  is  such  a constant  pressure  of  work,  and  so  much  of  it  is  neces- 
sarily of  a private,  confidential  nature,  that  but  few  of  the  rooms  are 
accessible  to  visitors.  Business  with  the  divisions  is  usually  done 
through  the  chief  clerks,  whose  offices  are  open  to  the  public.  To 
inspect  the  money-vaults  it  is  necessary  to  obtain  a permit  from  the 
Treasurer  of  the  United  States.  The  building  is  crowded  with  em- 
ployes, nearly  three  thousand  persons  performing  service  in  it  daily. 
Stringent  rules  are  enforced  for  the  government  of  this  host  of 
workers,  and  a rigid  business  s}'stem  prevails  in  every  division. 

The  rooms  occupied  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  and  the 
numerous  divisions  appertaining  to  what  is  called  “The  Secretary’s 
Office,”  are  large  and  finely  furnished.  The  Secretary,  as  a mem- 
ber of  the  Cabinet,  has  a compensation  of  $8,000  per  year.  There 
are  two  assistant  secretaries  who  receive  $4,500  each,  and  in  the 
Secretary’s  office  are  a chief  clerk  at  a salary  of  $2,700,  a stenogra- 
pher at  $2,000,  and  several  chiefs  of  divisions  at  salaries  averaging 
$2,500.  There  are  also  one  hundred  and  thirty  clerks,  fifty  of  whom 
are  women,  and  a large  force  of  book-keepers,  messengers,  and 
others.  The  salary  list  is  $495,000  per  year.  The  Secretary’s  office 
maybe  called  “ the  official  division  ” of  the  Treasury  Department. 
It  has  special  duties  connected  with  the  Secretary’s  supervision  of 
the  sub-departments  of  the  Treasury,  but  it  is  in  a certain  sense 
independent  of  them. 

The  sub-departments  are  large  and  important.  They  occupy 


THE  TREASURY  DEPARTMENT 


179 


special  suites  of  rooms,  and  liave  many  officials,  clerks,  and  em- 
ployes, whose  total  compensation  amounts  to  $2,500,000  per  year. 
These  are  the  principal  divisions  : The  offices  of  the  First  Comp- 
troller and  Second  Comptroller,  the  Commissioner  of  Customs,  the 
Commissioner  of  Internal  Revenue,  the  Treasurer  of  the  United 
States,  the  Register  of  the  Treasury,  the  Comptroller  of  the  Cur- 
rency, the  Director  of  the  Mint,  and  the  First,  Second,  Third,  Fourth, 
Fifth,  and  Sixth  Auditors.  Then  there  are  the  offices  of  the  Super- 
vising Architect,  who  has  charge  of  the  erection  of  public  buildings 
throughout  the  country  ; the  Light-house  Board,  the  Bureau  of  Sta- 
tistics, the  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing,  the  Life-Saving  Ser- 
vice, the  Secret  Service,  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  the  Rev- 
enue Cutter  and  Marine  Hospital  Service,  the  Construction  of  Stand- 
ard Weights  and  Measures,  and  the  Steamboat  Inspection  Service. 

All  the  sub-departments  are  under  the  general  supervision  of  the 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  and  it  must  be  admitted  that  this  distin- 
guished official  has  a great  deal  to  engage  his  time  and  attention  if 


THE  BUREAU  OF  ENGRAVING  AND  PRINTING. 


i8o 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


he  faithfully  performs  his  duty.  If  a secretary  carefully  verifies 
everything  in  the  sub-departments  ; if  he  is  determined  to  know  all 
about  the  official  acts  of  his  subordinates  — and  many  secretaries 
have  been  scrupulously  particular  in  this  respect  — he  must  give  all 
his  time  to  the  work,  and  even  then  he  can  hardly  master  the  full 
details  of  the  colossal  transactions  of  the  Treasur}^  Department. 

There  are  sub-treasuries  in  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Boston,  Bal- 
timore, Cincinnati,  New  Orleans,  St.  Louis,  and  San  Francisco;  and 
mints  in  Philadelphia,  San  Francisco,  New  Orleans,  Carson,  Ne- 
vada ; and  Denver,  Colorado.  Assay  offices  are  also  located  in  New 
York,  Helena,  Montana;  Boise  City,  Idaho;  Charlotte,  North  Car- 
olina ; and  St.  Louis.  All  these  financial  institutions  are  under  the 
supervision  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  They  are  of  great 
importance,  and  transact  a very  large  business.  They  are  sustained 
at  a yearly  cost  of  $1,556,000. 

The  First  Comptroller  is  familiarly  called  “ the  autocrat  of  the 
Treasury,”  as  he  has  been  given  remarkable  power  by  Congress. 
He  countersigns  all  the  warrants  on  the  Treasury  for  the  payment 
of  money,  and  not  a dollar  can  be  obtained  unless  his  signature  is 
on  the  warrant.  He  decides  every  matter  of  payment,  and  even  if  a 
claim  has  been  passed  by  a department  of  the  government,  the  claim- 
ant, be  he  the  highest  official,  even  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
cannot  receive  what  is  due  him  unless  the  First  Comptroller  is  satis- 
fied that  the  claim  is  correct.  It  is  supposed  that  this  official  was 
created  when  the  Treasury  Department  was  first  organized,  as  a 
check  upon  the  officials  whose  duty  it  was  to  audit  claims  ; and  from 
time  to  time  additional  power  has  been  given  him  by  statute,  so  that 
now  he  has  the  final  decision  in  regard  to  all  payments,  and  can  re- 
verse the  decision  of  any  official,  and  even  refuse  his  signature  to  a 
warrant  signed  by  the  President  or  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 
There  is  no  appeal  from  his  decision  e.xcept  to  the  courts.  In  fact, 
through  the  laws  which  give  him  absolute  power,  he  can  stand  before 
the  government  money-vaults,  and  allow  only  what  he  thinks  is 
proper  to  be  paid  out  of  them.  The  President  can  remove  him  from 
office,  but  he  would  find  it  difficult  to  explain  why  he  removed  an 
official  for  doing  what  Congress  has  authorized  him  to  do,  and  par- 
ticularly as  Congress  has  deemed  it  necessary  to  make  this  official  a 
check  upon  the  Executive. 

The  salar}’  of  the  First  Comptroller  is  $5,000  per  year.  He  has 


THE  GREAT  VAULTS. 


i8i 


a deputy  with  a salary  of  $2,700,  four  chiefs  of  divisions  with  sala- 
ries of  $2,100,  and  fifty-one  clerks.  Eighty-three  thousand  dollars 
are  yearly  expended  for  the  maintenance  of  his  office.  The  Second 
Comptroller  has  a salary  of  $5,000,  and  his  office  is  pi'ovided  with 
a large  force  of  clerks. 

In  the  offices  of  the  auditors  the  accounts  of  the  various  depart- 
ments of  the  government  are  examined,  after  which  they  afe  trans- 
mitted, with  the  vouchers,  to  the  offices  of  the  First  Comptroller  and 
Second  Comptroller  for  final  examination  and  approval.  Each  au- 
ditor examines  the  accounts  of  certain  departments,  and  has  full  au- 
thority to  approve  or  reject  any  account,  subject  to  the  final  decision 
of  the  First  Comptroller.  The  auditors  have  salaries  of  $3,600, 
and  employ  many  clerks. 

The  Treasurer  of  the  United  States  is  in  charge  of  the  govern- 
ment funds.  He  receives  and  disburses  all  the  public  moneys,  has 
the  custody  of  the  great  money-vaults,  holds  the  bonds  deposited  by 
the  national  banks  to  secure  their  circulating  notes,  issues  new  treas- 
ury notes  and  redeems  old  ones,  is  the  custodian  of  the  Indian  trust 
funds,  pays  the  interest  on  the  public  debt,  and  has  numerous  other 
duties.  His  salary  is  $6,000,  and  he  is  required  to  give  a bond  for 
the  faithful  performance  of  his  duties  in  the  sum  of  $150,000.  There 
is  an  assistant  treasurer  with  a salary  of  $3,600,  and  in  the  six 
divisions  of  the  department  there  is  a large  force  of  accountants, 
cashiers,  and  clerks. 

The  money-vaults  in  which  the  government  keeps  its  reserve 
funds  are  located  in  the  basement  of  the  Treasury  Building.  They 
are  massive  iron  and  steel  structures,  which  are  faithfully  guarded 
night  and  day.  There  are  other  vaults  on  the  first  floor,  near  the 
cash-room,  which  contain  the  funds  for  current  payments.  In  the 
different  vaults  and  safes  are  millions  of  dollars  in  treasury  notes, 
in  gold  and  silver  coins,  and  in  United  States  bonds  — “ wealth  be- 
yond the  potential  dream  of  avarice  ! ” The  Treasurer  of  the  United 
States  is  the  custodian  of  this  vast  sum,  is  solely  responsible  for  its 
safe  keeping  and  proper  disbursement ; and  it  can  be  truly  said  of 
him,  that  he  can  day  by  day  indulge  in  the  sight  and  touch  of  a 
larger  amount  of  money  than  any  other  person  in  the  country.  If 
we  could  examine  the  great  pile  of  bank-notes  and  bonds,  and  the 
bags  of  coins  in  the  compartments  of  the  vaults,  we  should  find  that 
they  represented  between  four  and  five  hundred  millions  of  dollars. 


i82 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


In  the  first  place,  there  are  bonds  held  in  trust  for  various  purposes 
to  the  amount  of  about  four  hundred  millions.  Then  there  is  national 
currency  of  the  value  of  fifty  or  sixty  millions  — to-day  more,  to-mor- 
row less,  as  the  payments  and  receipts  cause  the  fund  to  increase  or 
diminish.  In  the  coin  sections  there  are  usually  from  twenty  to  forty 
millions  in  gold  and  silver,  and  this  represents  but  a small  fraction 
of  the  specie  the  government  has  on  hand,  as  the  greater  portion  is 
deposited  in  the  sub-treasuries  in  other  cities.  Sometimes  the  vaults 
will  contain  many  tons  of  the  precious  metals. 

There  never  has  been  an  attempt  made  to  rob  the  Treasury,  and  it 
is  believed  that  it  would  be  an  impossibility.  A guard  of  sixty  men, 
nearly  all  old  soldiers,  patrol  the  building  day  and  night.  The  men 
are  commanded  by  a captain  and  lieutenant,  and  are  armed  with  re- 
volvers of  the  largest  and  best  variety.  When  the  building  is  closed 
at  night,  every  room  is  inspected,  and  if  a safe  is  found  unlocked  an 
officer  is  placed  in  charge  of  it,  and  the  person  whose  duty  it  was  to 
lock  it  is  sent  for.  After  the  inspection  the  guard  is  set,  and  a rigid 
discipline  maintained  until  morning.  The  men  patrol  their  beats 
every  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  the  lieutenant  goes  the  rounds  every 
twm  hours. 

The  redemption  and  counting  division  is  a busy  and  interesting 
place.  Here  worn  and  mutilated  bank-notes,  retired  from  service, 
are  examined  and  counted,  previous  to  being  destroyed.  Every  year 
national  currency  of  tbe  value  of  two  hundred  millions  is  counted, 
canceled,  and  destroyed.  The  counting  is  done  by  female  clerks, 
many  of  whom  acquire  marvelous  skill,  and  seldom,  if  ever,  make 
a mistake  in  manipulating  the  great  piles  of  valuable  paper.  Some 
of  the  clerks  have  been  at  the  work  for  eight  or  ten  years,  and  in 
that  time  have  handled  many  millions  of  dollars.  They  sit  at  long 
tables,  on  which  bank-notes  are  spread  as  thick  as  leaves  in  a forest. 
Package  after  package  is  opened,  the  notes  are  closely  scrutinized 
and  rapidly  counted,  and  are  then  turned  over  to  officials  who  cancel 
them  by  means  of  macbines  which  punch  them  full  of  holes.  After- 
ward the  “ dead  ” currency  is  placed  in  water  and  thoroughly  macer- 
ated, nothing  remaining  but  a mass  of  paper-pulp.  It  is  then  given 
into  the  hands  of  a special  ofiicer,  to  be  burned.  The  national  cur- 
rency received  from  the  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing,  and 
from  government  dejwsitories  tliroughout  the  country,  is  also  care- 
fullv  counted  and  verified  before  it  is  accepted,  and  the  amount  cer- 
tified to  as  correct. 


THE  REDEMPTION  BUREAU. 


In  the  redemption  bureau  a great  deal  of  delicate  work  is  done  in 
verifying  currency  which  has  been  partially  destroyed  by  fire  or 
other  causes,  and  which  has  been  sent  to  the  Treasury  to  be  ex- 
changed for  new  notes.  Ladies  who  are  expert  in  this  business  take 
the  mass  of  burned  or  otherwise  damaged  currency  in  hand,  and 
with  long,  thin  knives  and  powerful  magnifying-glasses  slowly  and 
cautiously  separate  the  pieces,  and  then  endeavor  to  trace  out  each 
note  alleged  to  be  in  the  collection.  Sometimes  the  entire  amount 
can  be  thus  verified,  even  if  the  notes  were  badly  burned  ; but  usually 
from  ten  to  thirty  per  cent,  is  lost  to  the  owner  from  sheer  inability  to 
distinguish  in  the  mass  of  debris  anything  that  bears  the  slightest 
resemblance  to  a bank-note.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  — in 
fact,  an  astonishing  amount  — rendered  worthless  by  various  accidents 
are  received  every  year,  and  the  greatest  of  care  is  taken  to  redeem 
as  much  of  the  money  as  possible.  One  day  a mass  of  cinders,  the 
remains  of  a package  of  bank-notes  of  the  value  of  $1,700,  was  re- 
ceived from  Missouri  for  redemption.  The  money  had  been  placed 


184 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


in  a stove  over  night  for  safe  keeping,  and  was  entirely  forgotten  the 
next  morning  until  after  the  fire  was  lighted.  The  charred  fragments 
were  carefully  collected,  brought  to  the  Treasury,  and  placed  in  the 
hands  of  one  of  the  most  expert  ladies  of  the  redemption  bureau. 
She  succeeded,  after  ten  days  of  arduous  labor,  in  identifying  nearly 
eighty  per  cent,  of  the  notes,  and  when  their  owner  received  the  new 
money  he  was  so  delighted  at  his  good  fortune  that  he  presented  the 
skillful  lady  with  a brand  new  one  hundred  dollar  bill. 

A curious  case  is  related  of  the  redemption  of  notes  amounting  to 
$2,091,  which  were  found  in  a secret  pocket  in  the  undershirt  of  a 
German,  who  had  died  in  a New  York  almshouse  and  had  been  buried 
in  a pauper’s  grave  for  three  months.  A relative  of  the  supposed 
pauper  arrived  from  Europe,  and  had  his  body  disinterred,  when  the 
money  was  discovered.  The  condition  of  the  notes,  after  they  had 
been  in  contact  with  a decomposing  body  for  such  a length  of  time, 
can  be  imagined,  and  the  lady  to  whom  was  assigned  the  duty  of 
examining  and  verifying  them  was  speedily  deserted  by  her  compan- 
ions, and  had  the  entire  end  of  the  apartment  to  herself.  The  work, 
although  very  disagreeable,  was  satisfactorily  accomplished,  and  clean, 
new  notes  were  returned  to  the  German’s  heir. 

The  cash-room  of  the  Treasury  is  a large  apartment  on  the  first 
floor,  beautifully  constructed  of  polished  marbles  of  a wide  variety. 
It  is  a palatial  banking-office,  all  its  appurtenances  being  sumptuous 
and  ornate.  Here  are  a dozen  cashiers  who  daily  disburse  great 
sums  of  money  in  the  payment  of  warrants  and  checks  to  the  cred- 
itors of  the  government.  Usually  there  are  ten  or  fifteen  million  dol- 
lars in  the  vaults  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  daily  business.  The 
cashing  of  a warrant  for  one  million  dollars  is  no  unusual  thing,  and 
warrants  for  several  millions  are  occasionally  presented.  On  one 
occasion  the  pension  office  presented  a warrant  for  ten  millions, 
which  was  promptly  cashed.  Members  of  the  Secret  Service  are 
constantly  in  the  room  to  guard  the  treasure.  By  ascending  to  the 
second  floor,  visitors  can  enter  the  balcony  which  extends  around  the 
cash-room,  and  watch  the  cashiers  make  the  payments,  enjoying,  if 
only  for  a few  moments,  the  sight  of  a great  deal  of  money. 

The  national  currency  is  manufactured  at  tlie  Bureau  of  Engrav- 
ing and  Printing,  which  is  located  in  a large  brick  building  on  the 
Mall  at  the  corner  of  Fourteenth  and  B streets  southwest.  The 
building  is  of  the  Romanesque  style,  and  was  erected  at  a cost  of 


BUREAU  OF  ENGRAVING  AND  PRINTING. 


185 

$300,000.  It  has  three  stories  and  a high  basement,  and  on  the 
northeast  end  is  a tall  tower  of  handsome  design.  The  interior  is 
constructed  in  a very  elaborate  and  elegant  manner.  Visitors  are 
permitted  to  inspect  the  different  divisions  of  the  bureau,  and  a guide 
is  provide  to  conduct  all  who  apply  on  “ the  grand  tour”  of  the 
rooms. 

The  entire  third  story  is  devoted  to  the  printing  division.  Here 
are  two  hundred  and  fifty  plate-presses,  worked  by  hand,  and  a force 
of  about  five  hundred  men  and  women  constantly  engaged  in  print- 
ing sheets  of  bank-notes,  bonds,  and  internal  revenue  stamps.  In- 
tense activity  prevails  throughout  the  long,  spacious  room.  Those 
who  have  the  idea  that  government  employes  “take  things  easy,” 
should  look  at  this  host  of  energetic  workers  who  waste  not  a moment, 
but  with  the  untiring  movement  of  a great  machine,  drive  on  the  work 
they  have  to  do.  Each  employ^  has  to  perform  a certain  fixed 
amount  of  work  in  a day  — and  the  same  is  true  of  the  employes  in 
most  of  the  departments  of  the  public  service  — and  if  it  is  not  done 
the  failure  is  recorded,  and  the  employe  stands  in  danger  of  dismis- 
sal. Six  hundred  sheets  a day  must  be  printed  on  each  press,  and 
when  it  is  considered  that  every  time  an  impression  is  taken  the  del- 
icate copper  and  steel  plate  has  to  be  removed  from  the  press,  care- 
fully wiped  dry,  then  polished  with  whiting,  then  inked,  and  all  the 
ink  rubbed  off  save  that  contained  in  the  minute  lines  of  the  engrav- 
ing, then  put  on  to  the  press  and  the  fibre  paper  laid  on  it  expertly, 
some  idea  may  be  obtained  of  the  labor  necessary  to  print  the  num- 
ber of  sheets  required  each  day.  There  is,  indeed,  no  time  allowed 
for  loitering.  To  print  a bank-note,  three  impressions  are  necessary. 
First,  the  centre  picture  or  design  on  the  back  is  printed  ; then  the 
border  for  the  back,  and  then  the  face  of  the  note.  The  sheets 
printed  on  each  press  bear  the  name  of  the  pressman,  and  all  bad 
impressions — those  too  light  or  too  dark,  or  defaced  in  any  way  — 
are  thrown  out  by  the  examiners,  and  recorded  to  the  discredit  of 
the  pressman. 

In  the  second  story  are  the  examining,  lettering  and  numbering, 
and  counting  divisions.  When  the  sheets  of  currency  come  from 
the  press-room  they  are  closely  inspected  by  the  examiners  to  detect 
imperfections,  and  those  that  are  imperfect  are  thrown  out  and  sent 
to  the  redemption  bureau  of  the  Treasury  to  be  finally  counted  and 
destroyed.  The  perfect  sheets  are  passed  over  to  the  employes  in 


t86 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


charge  of  the  lettering  and  numbering  machines,  and  the  letters  and 
numbers  belonging  to  the  series  are  printed  on  each  note.  When 
this  process  is  finished  the  clean,  crisp  notes  are  given  into  the  hands 
of  a large  force  of  women,  who  count  them  with  marvelous  celerity, 
after  which  they  are  taken  to  the  basement  story,  where  tlTe  red  seal 
ot  the  government  is  stamped  on  them.  The  new-made  paper  dol- 
lars are  then  deposited  in  the  vaults  of  the  bureau  until  they  shall  be 
conveyed  to  the  Treasury  in  the  guarded  treasure-wagons.  It  re- 
quires about  twenty-eight  days  to  complete  a lot  of  bank-notes  of 
small  denominations,  aggregating  five  million  dollars  — certainly  a 
very  short  time  to  make  so  much  money.  The  government  is  con- 
tinually obliged  to  print  new  currency  with  which  to  redeem  the  worn- 
out  notes  that  are  all  the  time  being  sent  to  the  Treasury  by  the 
national  banks  to  be  exchanged. 

While  the  employes  in  the  several  divisions  of  the  bureau  are 
working,  they  are  under  the  strict  surveillance  of  officials  stationed 
here  and  there  throughout  the  rooms.  Around  each  room  is  a high, 
closely-woven  wire  screen,  completely  enclosing  the  employes,  and 
rendering  it  impossible  for  any  of  them  to  pass  the  sheets  of  cur- 
rency to  persons  who  may  come  into  the  corridors,  even  if  they  were 
so  disposed.  At  the  close  of  working  hours  no  one  is  permitted  to 
leave  the  building  until  the  heads  of  the  divisions  have  reported  to 
the  chief  of  the  bureau  that  every  printed  and  unprinted  sheet,  and 
every  stamp,  die,  and  plate  have  been  properly  accounted  for. 

The  engraving  division,  in  the  basement,  is  fitted  up  with  the  best 
appliances  for  executing  the  fine  plates  required.  Here  is  a massive 
vault  used  as  a depository  for  all  the  plates  and  rolls,  which  at  night 
are  securely  locked  in  it.  The  engravers  are  guarded  by  watchmen, 
lazily  sitting  in  comfortable  arm-chairs  a few  steps  off,  who  keep  their 
eyes  fixed  on  the  blocks  of  steel  and  copper  being  engraved,  for 
here,  as  in  the  other  divisions,  all  the  employes  are  under  surveil- 
lance very  much  as  if  they  were  inmates  of  a prison. 

The  Register  of  the  Treasury,  who  has  charge  of  the  account- 
books  wherein  all  the  receipts  and  expenditures  of  the  government 
are  recorded,  and  the  Comptroller  of  the  Currency,  who  has  charge 
of  the  national  banks  and  their  circulating  notes,  are  important  offi- 
cials, and  their  divisions  have  numerous  officials  and  employees.  The 
Register  has  a salary  of  $4,000  per  year,  and  the  assistant  register 
$2,250;  the  Comptroller  has  $5,000,  and  tlu;  deputy-comptroller, 


THE  SECRET  SERVICE. 


187 


$2,800.  The  departments 
of  Customs  and  Internal  Revenue 
are  very  extensive.  The  Commis- 
sioner of  Customs  has  a salary  of  $4,000,  and  the  Commissioner  of 
Internal  Revenue,  $6,000.  The  Director  of  the  Mint,  who  has  the 
supervision  of  the  mints  and  assay  offices,  has  a salary  of  $4,500. 

A large  amount  of  important  and  very  beneficial  work  is  performed 
by  the  Secret  Service  Office,  which  is  in  charge  of  a chief  with  a sal- 
ary of  $3,500,  who  reports  to  the  Solicitor  of  the  Treasury.  Counter- 
feiting, and  the  numerous  cunning  devices  employed  to  fraudulently 
obtain  money  and  lands  from  the  government,  are  investigated  by 
the  Secret  Service  agents,  and  evidence  obtained  to  convict  offenders. 
The  office  rooms  in  the  Treasury  Building  contain  an  extensive 
museum  of  counterfeit  bank-notes  and  coins,  and  the  plates,  dies, 
and  moulds  used  by  counterfeiters,  and  there  are  also  collections  of 
photographs  of  the  fraternity.  The  office  keeps  a thorough  record 
of  cases  and  of  men,  and  it  can  furnish  the  fullest  information  con- 
cerning hundreds  of  persons  who  are  ranked  among  the  dangerous 


i88 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


classes.  It  is  thought  that  the  Secret  Service  does  remarkably  good 
wmrk  in  the  suppression  of  counterfeiting,  when  the  extent  of  the 
country  and  the  wide  variety  of  the  government  money  are  considered. 
Many  of  the  most  skilled  bank-note  counterfeiters  have  been  given 
long  terms  of  imprisonment,  and  those  who  are  at  liberty  are  kept, 
as  far  as  possible,  under  close  surveillance.  The  greatest  difficulty 
the  Secret  Service  now  has  to  contend  with  is  the  counterfeiting  of 
silver  coins,  which  is  largely  increasing,  and  proving  very  annoying 
to  the  government,  as  well  as  a matter  of  considerable  loss  to  the 
public.  Counterfeiters  of  silver  money  now  pay  great  attention  to  the 
mixing  of  their  metals,  and  the  plating  of  the  coin,  and  consequently 
the  detection  of  the  counterfeits  is  very  difficult.  There  are  imitations 
of  the  silver  dollar  and  half-dollar  in  the  possession  of  the  Secret 
Service  which  are  almost  as  perfect  as  the  coins  made  in  the  United 
States  mints,  in  weight,  size,  ring,  and  general  appearance. 

Unceasing  efforts  are  ma.de  to  discover  the  counterfeiters  who  work 
so  much  mischief.  Not  long  since  an  entire  family  was  captured  in 
Vermont, — father,  mother,  sons  and  daughters,  and  even  the  aged 
grandsire, — all  diligently  laboring  at  the  nefarious  business.  The 
coin-testers  in  the  mints,  whose  duty  it  is  to  test  each  coin  received, 
furnish  a good  deal  of  the  information  as  to  the  counterfeits,  particu- 
larly those  which  deceive  bank  officials  and  experts.  A coin  must 
be  quite  perfect  to  pass  their  test.  They  balance  the  coin  on  the 
top  of  the  middle  finger,  and  lightly  tap  its  rim  with  the  forefinger. 
Thousands  of  coins  are  tested  by  them,  and  they  acquire  wonderful 
skill,  readily  detecting  the  slightest  false  ring  or  “ rote,”  as  they  term 
it.  Counterfeit  coins  are  also  analyzed  in  the  Treasury  assay  office, 
and  their  qualities  given  to  the  Secret  Service  agents,  to  aid  them  in 
their  work. 

The  attic  of  the  Treasury  Building  consists  of  a series  of  capa- 
cious rooms,  halls,  and  corridors.  Many  of  the  rooms  are  filled  with 
documents  relating  to  the  department  and  its  multifarious  transactions 
during  the  past  threescore  years.  There  are  tons  of  written  and 
printed  papers  — cases  reaching  to  the  roof  filled  with  reports,  vouch- 
ers, letters,  books,  records,  certificates  of  deposit,  some  of  them  yel- 
low with  age.  In  this  vast  documentary  museum  are  hundreds  of 
curious  relics  of  by-gone  days. 


CHAPTER  XII 


WAR  AND  NAVY  DEPARTMENTS  — THE  VARIOUS  DIVISIONS  — HEADQUARTERS 
OF  THE  ARMY  — THE  MILITARY  FORCE  — ARMY  MEDICAL  MUSEUM  — THE 
WEATHER  BUREAU  AND  ITS  MODE  OF  OPERATION  — THE  SOLDIERS’  HOME 
— NAVAL  AFFAIRS  — THE  NAVY  YARD  — THE  NATIONAL  OBSERVATORY. 

The  War  Department  has  charge  of  the  military  service  of 
the  government,  and  is  under  the  direction  of  the  Secretary 
of  War.  It  occupies  the  northern  portion  of  the  State,  War, 
and  Navy  Building,  with  several  divisions  located  elsewhere 
in  Washington.  It  has  been  an  executive  department  since  1789. 
The  divisions  are,  the  office  of  the  Secretary  of  War,  the  Headquar- 
ters of  the  Army,  the  departments  of  the  Adjutant-General,  Inspector- 
General,  Quartermaster -General,  Commissary -General,  Surgeon- 
General,  and  Paymaster-General ; the  Corps  of  Engineers,  the  Ord- 
nance Department,  the  Bureau  of  Military  Justice,  the  Signal  Office, 
the  Bureau  of  War  Records,  etc.  The  department,  in  addition  to  the 
charge  of  military  affairs,  has  the  management  and  control  of  numer- 
ous matters  that  are  not  strictly  warlike.  Among  the  number  are 
the  manifold  river  and  harbor  improvements  throughout  the  United 
States,  the  government  explorations  and  geographical  surveys,  the 
various  public  works,  the  gathering  and  promulgation  of  the  weather 
reports,  and  the  national  cemeteries  and  asylums.  It  is  a vast  estab- 
lishment, requiring  a host  of  workers  and  an  enormous  yearly  ex- 
pehditure  to  maintain  it.  In  some  recent  years  the  disbursements 
have  amounted  to  about  fifty  millions  of  dollars.  Every  year  the 
army  and  its  adjuncts  require  the  expenditure  of  nearly  $29,000,000, 
the  salaries  and  expenses  of  the  department  amount  to  $2,400,000, 
and  from  ten  to  twenty  millions  are  expended  for  public  works. 


190 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


The  Secretary  of  War  is  a Cabinet  minister,  and  receives  $8,000 
per  year.  He  has  a chief  clerk  with  a salary  of  $2,500,  a disburs- 
ing clerk  with  $2,000,  a stenographer  with  $1,800,  and  three  chiefs 
of  divisions  with  $2,000  each.  His  office  is  provided  with  fifty-six 
clerks  and  numerous  other  employes.  The  chief  clerk  has  the  gen- 
eral superintendence,  is  in  charge  of  the  correspondence,  and  acts 
as  a medium  between  the  Secretary  and  the  heads  of  the  sub-depart- 
ments. The  several  military  bureaus  bave  many  employes,  and  are 
part  of  the  army  establishment,  the  chiefs  being  officers  of  the  regu- 
lar army. 

The  old  War  Department  building,  so  familiar  to  thousands  of 
soldiers  of  the  volunteer  army  during  the  Rebellion,  was  demolished 
in  1879.  stood  where  the  northern  wing  of  the  State,  War,  and 
Navy  Building  now  stands,  and  had  a history  going  back  to  Presi- 
dent Monroe’s  time.  It  was  a three-story  brick  structure  with  a huge 
portico  of  marble  pillars,  and  in  front  of  it  were  a number  of  grand 
old  trees,  among  the  largest  and  finest  in  Washington.  When  it  was 
proposed  to  cut  down  these  trees  there  was  an  earnest  protest  from 
army  officers,  but  tbe  new  building  required  the  space,  and  the 
woodman  could  not  “ spare  the  axe.” 

In  the  present  palatial  building  the  department  offices  are  all  very 
spacious  and  magnificent.  The  apartments  used  by  the  Secretary  of 
War  are  artistically  decorated  and  richly  furnished.  They  are  in  the 
second  story,  fronting  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue.  The  Secretary  sits  at 
a handsomely  carved  mahogany  desk,  with  his  private  secretary  and 
his  stenographer  near  at  hand.  In  the  early  part  of  the  day  he  re- 
ceives members  of  Congress,  the  chiefs  of  the  sub-departments,  and 
those  whose  business  renders  an  interview  necessary.  The  afternoon 
is  devoted  to  an  examination  of  the  reports  and  papers  submitted  to 
him  for  approval.  It  is  his  duty  to  make  a careful  study  of  the  public 
business  pertaining  to  the  important  department  he  controls,  and  to 
ascertain  the  most  correct  and  efficient  methods  of  doing  it.  No  man, 
it  is  declared,  can  master  the  details  of  this  department  who  does  not 
give  his  nights,  as  well  as  his  days,  to  their  stud}^ ; and  unless  the 
details  are  mastered,  a Secretary  of  War  can  never  fully  understand 
the  questions  he  has  to  decide,  or  be  competent  to  give  proper  advice 
to  the  President. 

In  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  Secretary’s  office  is  a collection  of 
portraits  of  past  Secretaries  of  War,  and  in  other  rooms  are  portraits 
of  famous  soldiers  and  a series  of  well-painted  battle-scenes.  T be 


THE  NAVY  YARD,  FROM  THE  POTOMAC, 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


192 

office  library  is  contained  in  a finely  embellished  room.  It  consists 
of  3,000  works  of  reference,  and  15,000  miscellaneous  works,  which 
are  freely  circulated  among  army  officers  and  the  department  em- 
ployes. In  addition  to  this  library,  the  various  sub-departments  and 
bureaus  all  have  special  libraries,  consisting  of  works  treating  of  the 
matters  they  are  occupied  with,  and  many  of  these  libraries  are  large 
and  valuable. 

The  rooms  used  for  the  headquarters  of  the  army  are  very  hand- 
somely furnished.  They  are  occupied  by  the  Lieutenant-General  in 
command  of  the  army,  his  aides-de-camp,  and  clerks.  Here  reports 
are  daily  received,  and  the  numerous  details  appertaining  to  the  su- 
pervision of  the  military  force  are  attended  to.  The  regular  army 
consists  of  over  two  thousand  commissioned  officers,  and  23,000  en- 
listed men,  and  is  divided  into  twenty-five  regiments  of  infantry,  ten 
regiments  of  cavalry,  and  five  regiments  of  artillery.  Three  hundred 
scouts,  engaged  in  Indian  warfare  on  the  plains  of  the  far  West,  are 
also  part  of  the  army  organization.  There  are  nine  military  depart- 
ments throughout  the  United  States.  The  pay  of  the  Lieutenant- 
General  is  $11,000  per  year.  Major-generals  receive  $7,500,  brig- 
adier-generals $5,500,  colonels  $3,500,  lieutenant-colonels  $3,000, 
majors  $2,500,  captains  from  $1,800  to  $2,000,  and  lieutenants  from 
$1,400  to  $1,600.  After  five  years’  service  the  pay  of  officers  below 
the  rank  of  general  is  increased  from  ten  to  forty  per  cent.,  accord- 
ing to  length  of  service.  All  commissioned  officers  are  retired  from 
service  on  three-quarters  pay  when  they  reach  the  age  of  sixty-two. 
Enlisted  men  are  paid  from  $13  to  $21  per  month. 

In  the  army  headquarters  are  portraits  of  the  commanders-in- 
chief,  from  Washington  to  Sheridan.  There  have  been  nineteen 
commanders  from  1775  to  the  present  time,  but  Congress  has  con- 
ferred the  full  title  of  General  on  only  three  of  them  — Washington, 
Grant,  and  Sherman.  General  Washington  received  the  honor  a 
short  time  before  his  death,  in  1799,  when  he  was  placed  in  command 
of  the  army,  in  expectation  of  a war  with  France  ; and  in  1866  Con- 
gress revived  the  title  as  a special  honor  for  General  Grant.  When 
General  Sherman  became  commander  he  also  received  the  title. 
Lieutenant-General  Winfield  Scott  was  commander  from  June,  1841, 
to  November,  1861,  and  General  William  T.  Sherman  from  March, 
1869,  to  November,  1883.  These  were  the  longest  terms  of  service. 

The  department  of  the  Adjutant-General  is  a very  busy  place. 
Here  are  five  hundred  clerks  and  other  employes,  for  whose  salaries 


THE  WAR  DEPARTMENT. 


193 


tlie  sum  of  $691,000  is  annually  appropriated.  Two  hundred  of 
the  clerks  are  constantly  engaged  in  preparing  reports  to  expedite 
the  settlement  of  pension  claims.  The  muster-rolls  and  papers  relat- 
ing to  enlistments  and  discharges  are  kept  in  this  department.  The 
Adjutant-General  publishes  the  orders  in  regard  to  military  affairs, 
issues  commissions,  and  has  charge  of  the  army  discipline.  There 
are  four  assistant  adjutants-general. 

Another  large  and  important  department  is  that  of  the  Quarter- 
master-General, which  provides  the  means  of  transportation  by  land 
and  water  of  troops  and  the  materials  of  war.  It  furnishes  horses  for 
the  artillery  and  cavalry,  and  all  the  clothing,  tents,  camp  and  gar- 
rison equipage  for  the  army  ; builds  barracks,  hospitals,  store-houses, 
bridges,  etc.,  and  also  has  charge  of  the  eighty-one  national  ceme- 
teries in  various  parts  of  the  country,  in  which  soldiers  are  buried. 
It  yearl}'"  expends  from  ten  to  fifteen  millions  of  dollars. 

The  Paymaster-General  is  charged  with  paying  the  army  and  the 
military  academy.  He  has  an  office  force  of  fifty  persons,  and  an- 
nually disburses  over  thirteen  millions  of  dollars. 

The  Bureau  of  War  Records  has  published  seven  volumes  of 
records  of  the  Civil  War,  and  has  other  volumes  in  course  of  prep- 
aration. Records  of  the  Union  army,  from  1861  to  1865,  have  been 
gathered  from  all  sources  with  diligent  and  persevering  labor,  and  a 
great  collection  of  records  of  the  Confederate  service  has  also  come 
into  the  possession  of  the  bureau.  Search  is  constantly  being  made 
throughout  the  Southern  States  by  special  agents,  for  original  docu- 
ments relating  to  tbe  war,  and  frequently  very  valuable  Confederate 
papers  are  discovered. 

Carefully  preserved  in  the  Bureau  of  Military  Justice  are  a num- 
ber of  relics  of  the  Lincoln  assassination.  They  include  the  pistol 
with  which  the  President  was  shot,  the  fatal  bullet,  flattened  by  con- 
tact with  his  skull,  the  bowie-knife  that  the  assassin  brandished,  and 
the  hat  he  wore,  and  other  articles  associated  with  the  historic  event. 
The  bureau  is  under  the  supervision  of  the  Judge-Advocate-General, 
and  has  charge  of  the  proceedings  of  courts-martial  and  courts  of 
inquiry,  and  furnishes  reports  on  various  matters  submitted  to  it  by 
the  Secretary  of  War. 

The  department  of  the  Surgeon-General  is  very  extensive,  and 
his  offices  are  full  of  industrious  workers.  He  has  over  four  hundred 
clerks,  the  majority  of  whom  are  engaged  upon  matters  concerning 
the  settlement  of  pension  applications.  Besides  having  the  care  of 


194 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


the  health  of  the  army  — the  medical  and  hospital  department  — the 
Surgeon-General  has  possession  of  the  enormous  collection  of  records 
relating  to  the  disability  and  the  death  of  soldiers,  from  the  first  organ- 
ization of  the  army  of  the  United  States  to  the  present  time,  and  from 
these  records  are  compiled  the  reports  used  by  the  Commissioner  of 
Pensions  in  determining  the  merits  of  claims  for  pensions.  There  are 
nearly  nineteen  thousand  volumes  of  hospital  registers,  classified  and 
indexed ; and  thousands  of  volumes  of  records  containing  the  names 
of  deceased  soldiers,  as  well  as  an  immense  collection  of  documents 
pertaining  to  the  medical  and  surgical  history  of  every  war  that  this 
country  has  known.  The  records  of  the  Civil  War  are  very  com- 
plete. They  were  begun  during  its  progress,  and  were  continued 
afterward  for  a number  of  years,  requiring  in  their  compilation  re- 
markable patience,  perseverance,  and  skillful  application  to  details. 
The  registers  in  the  possession  of  the  Surgeon-General  contain  the 
names  of  more  than  seven  millions  of  sick,  wounded,  and  deceased 
soldiers,  and  nearly  half  the  names  are  arranged  in  convenient  form 
for  every-day  reference. 

The  record  and  pension  division  of  the  Surgeon-General’s  depart- 
ment is  located  in  the  historic  building  on  Tenth  Street,  formerly 
known  as  Ford’s  Theatre,  and  now  as  the  Army  Medical  Museum. 
In  this  building  President  Lincoln  was  assassinated  by  John  Wilkes 
Booth,  on  the  evening  of  April  14,  1865.  The  government  took  the 
building  for  its  present  purpose  at  the  suggestion  of  the  late  Surgeon- 
General  Joseph  K.  Barnes,  who  founded  the  Army  Medical  Museum, 
and  began  the  great  Medical  and  Surgical  History  of  the  War  of 
the  Rebellion^  three  volumes  of  which  have  been  published.  On 
the  second  floor  is  the  library  of  the  department,  which  is  considered 
to  be  the  largest  and  best  collection  of  medical  works  in  the  world. 
In  the  cases  are  over  fifty  thousand  volumes  and  nearly  seventy  thou- 
sand pamphlets,  some  of  them  very  ancient.  They  are  in  many  lan- 
guages, and  constitute  a thorough  history  of  medicine  and  surgery, 
fVom  the  earliest  times.  The  library  can  be  used  gratuitously  by 
physicians,  and  is  much  resorted  to,  many  physicians  coming  from 
distant  parts  of  the  country  to  consult  its  rare  and  precious  books. 

On  the  third  floor  is  the  Army  Medical  Museum,  an  institution 
which  has  no  counterpart  in  Europe  or  America.  It  has  obtained 
great  celebrity,  and  is  visited  by  thousands  of  people  every  year. 
Wsitors  are  freely  allowed  to  inspect  its  immense  collections,  and  in 
one  recent  year  the  names  of  13,250  people  were  registered.  The 


THE  MEDICAL  MUSEUM. 


195 


g 

jiro 

I’tM 

§ 

V. 

1 ^ 

1 

• 1 

. / 

THE  SIGNAL  OFFICE,  OR  THE  WEATHER  BUREAU. 


museum  contains  thorough  illustrations  of  the  diseases  of  armies,  of 
the  casualties  of  battle,  and  of  military  surgery.  The  illustrations 
comprise  over  twenty  thousand  specimens  taken  from  life,  and  arranged 
in  systematic  series.  It  is  a very  interesting  exhibition,  even  to  the 
non -professional,  and  furnishes  many  instructive  object-lessons. 
The  display  of  surgical  instruments  and  appliances  is  very  large, 
and  includes  the  ancient  as  well  as  the  modern ; and  there  is  a large 
collection  of  models  of  barracks,  ambulances,  railroad  cars  for  the 
sick  and  wounded,  etc.  The  anatomical  divisions  are  full  and  finely 
arranged.  A great  deal  of  pains  is  taken  with  the  museum,  and 
yearly  its  unsurpassed  collections  are  considerably  increased. 

In  Winder’s  Building,  on  Seventeenth  Street,  opposite  the  State, 


196 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


War,  and  Navy  Building,  is  the  Ordnance  Museum,  which  contains 
a large,  novel,  and  interesting  exhibit  of  military  articles,  including 
many  relics  of  the  Civil  War.  Here  the  instruments  of  war  can  be 
studied  to  advantage,  and  much  useful  information  readily  obtained. 
The  collections  of  arms  comprise  everything  known  to  America,  with 
considerable  of  foreign  manufacture,  and  fully  illustrate  the  various 
stages  of  advancement. 

The  Signal  Office,  better  known  as  the  “Weather  Bureau,”  is 
located  on  G Street  northwest.  It  occupies  a brick  edifice,  which  is 
conspicuous  by  reason  of  the  numerous  appliances  on  its  roof,  used 
for  registering  the  velocity  of  the  wind,  for  ascertaining  the  rain-fall, 
etc.  This  bureau  is  in  charge  of  a chief  signal  officer,  who  is  a 
brigadier-general  of  the  regular  army.  He  has  several  officers  of 
the  army  as  assistants,  a chief  clerk,  a force  of  scientific  experts, 
draughtsmen,  and  others,  together  with  many  clerks,  copyists,  mes- 
sengers, etc.  Throughout  the  United  States  there  are  three  hundred 
and  seventy-six  signal  stations,  in  charge  of  nineteen  officers  and  five 
hundred  men  of  the  signal  corps  of  the  army,  and  each  station  is 
provided  with  the  best  instruments  for  the  “weather  service” — for 
observing  and  accurately  recording  the  constant  variations  of  the 
weather.  From  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine  of  these  stations  tele- 
graphic reports  are  sent  daily  to  Washington;  the  others  report  by 
mail. 

The  Signal  Office  receives  reports  from  the  trained  observers  three 
times  in  every  twenty-four  hours  — at  7 a.  m.,  3 p.  m.,  and  at  mid- 
night. These  reports  contain  full  particulars  of  the  weather  in  the 
different  districts.  Seventeen  stations  in  Canada,  one  in  St.  Johns, 
Newfoundland,  and  one  in  another  part  of  British  America,  send  re- 
ports ; and,  in  the  seasons  of  tropical  storms,  reports  by  telegraph  are 
daily  received  from  six  stations  in  the  West  Indies.  Over  three  hun- 
dred voluntary  observers  also  send  reports  by  mail.  The  lines  of  the 
regular  telegraph  companies  are  used,  and  besides,  various  military 
and  sea-coast  telegraph  lines  owned  by  the  government.  The  reports 
from  all  the  stations  in  the  United  States,  Canada,  and  the  West  Indies, 
which  give  telegraphic  service,  are  received  inside  of  thirty  minutes, 
Washington  time.  The  first  synchronous  weather  reports  were  made 
on  the  first  of  November,  1870,  and  since  then  the  service  has  reached 
a high  state  of  perfection.  The  display  of  cautionary  signals  at  Amer- 
ican ports  was  begun  in  October,  1871. 

The  weather  reports  are  telegraphed  from  the  signal  stations  to 


197 


THE  WEATHER  BUREAU. 

Washington  by  means  of  a secret  code,  a few  figures  conveying  a large 
amount  of  information.  A “ translator”  takes  the  telegrams  in  hand 
and  carefully  reads  them  off  to  eight  clerks,  each  of  whom  has  a 
special  weather  map  before  him,  on  which  he  marks  the  particular 
readings  he  has  been  instructed  to  take.  Afterward  these  eight  maps 
are  combined  in  one  general  map,  which  will  fully  represent  all  the 
phases  of  the  weather  in  the  United  States  and  Canada  at  the  hour  the 
reports  were  sent.  This  map  is  closely  studied  by  the  assistant  sig- 
nal officer  detailed  for  the  purpose, — the  assistants  alternating  in  the 
work,  each  one  serving  thirty  days  at  a time, — the  “storm-centre”  is 
located,  the  probable  course  of  storms  determined,  and  finally  the 
“weather  indications”  are  made  up  for  the  East  and  West,  the  North 
and  South,  and  given  to  the  agent  of  the  associated  press  for  trans- 
mission to  the  newspapers  of  the  country. 

The  completed  weather  map,  which  is  the  finest  of  the  kind  issued 
* in  the  world,  is  lithographed  by  the  Signal  Office,  and  copies  of  it 


THE  soldiers’  HOME. 


198 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


are  distributed  every  morning  in  the  sections  easily  reached  from 
Washington.  In  order  that  the  map  may  have  a more  extended  cir- 
culation, certain  parties  in  prominent  cities  east,  west,  and  south  are 
also  charged  with  its  publication  by  authority  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment, and  the  daily  “ plan  of  make-up”  is  telegraphed  to  them  by  an 
efficient  system,  which  enables  them  to  issue  an  exact  copy  of  the  map 
printed  in  Washington.  Thus  it  is  possible  to  obtain  a weather  map 
hundreds  of  miles  from  the  Signal  Office,  by  noon  of  the  day  of  its 
date. 

A large  amount  of  meteorological  work  is  done  by  the  Signal 
Office,  and  its  records  are  very  precise  and  voluminous.  It  publishes 
a magazine  called  The  Monthly  Weather  Review,  which  contains 
papers  on  meteorology  by  eminent  scientists,  and  much  valuable  in- 
formation for  those  interested  in  “the  weather.” 

The  United  States  Barracks  (formerly  known  as  the  Arsenal)  are 
situated  on  a tract  of  sixty-nine  acres  in  the  southerly  part  of  Wash- 
ington, at  Greenleaf  Point,  where  the  waters  of  the  Anacostia  flow 
into  the  Potomac  River.  This  military  station  was  established  in 
1803.  The  grounds  are  finely  laid  out. 

A SHORT  distance  from  Washington,  on  the  Rock  Creek  road,  is 
the  Soldiers’  Home,  a most  beautiful  sylvan  retreat  where  the  aged 
and  invalid  soldiers  of  the  regular  army  can  pass  their  days  in  peace 
and  comfort.  There  are  few  finer  rural  estates  in  the  land,  and  it  is 
often  called  “the  Central  Park  of  Washington,”  as  it  is  constantly 
open  to  the  public,  and  over  its  five  hundred  acres  of  beautifully 
diversified  hill  and  dale,  every  one  can  wander  at  will,  enjoying  the 
charming  views  and  attractive  surroundings.  Within  the  grounds 
there  are  seven  miles  of  drives  on  broad,  well-made  roads,  shaded  in 
summer  by  gigantic  oaks  with  luxuriant  leafage  ; and  there  are  lakes 
with  swans,  long  stretches  of  meadow-lands,  handsome  arbors  perched 
on  hills,  whence  can  be  obtained  delightful  prospects  of  the  country 
for  several  miles  ; ornate  villas,  statuary,  and  various  adornments. 
It  is,  indeed,  a pleasing  spot,  with  plentiful  means  for  peaceful  enjoy- 
ment, and,  doubtless,  many  a “ weary  pilgrim  on  life’s  devious  course,” 
as  he  strolls  through  these  grounds  almost  envies  the  superannuated 
warriors  their  privilege  of  residing  here. 

The  Soldiers’  Home  was  founded  in  1851,  not  long  after  the  Mex- 
ican War,  and  was  suggested  by  Gen.  Winfield  Scott.  Congress 
appropriated  $118,719,  the  balance  remaining  of  the  sum  General 


THE  SOLDIERS’  HOME. 


199 


Scott  had  obtained  from  the  City  of  Mexico  as  indemnity  for  the 
violation  of  the  truce,  for  a fund  to  establish  the  institution,  and  the 
fund  was  further  augmented  by  levying  a tax  of  twelve  cents  a month 
on  the  pay  of  the  enlisted  men  of  the  regular  army.  The  money 
received  by  the  government  from  fines,  forfeitures  of  pay,  etc.,  of  the 
soldiers  was  also  devoted  to  the  purpose.  At  present  the  fund 
amounts  to  over  $800,000,  and  the  ye'arly  receipts  from  all  sources 
are  nearly  $150,000.  The  government  also  holds  more  than  one 
million  dollars  accruing  from  forfeitures  of  pay  of  deserters  from  the 
army,  and  from  the  money  of  deceased  soldiers  which  has  remained 
unclaimed  for  three  years,  and  as  soon  as  the  complicated  army  ac- 
counts can  be  adjusted,  this  great  sum  will  be  turned  over  to  the  Home. 
Soldiers  of  the  regular  army  who  have  served  faithfully  for  twenty 
years,  or  who  have  been  disabled  in  service,  are  entitled  to  a residence 
in  the  Home  for  the  remainder  of  their  lives.  There  are  over  six 
hundred  inmates,  who  are  not  subject  to  any  strict  regulations,  but 
are  well  fed  and  clothed,  tenderly  cared  for  while  sick,  and  who  spend 
their  time  in  a very  comfortable,  pleasant  manner.  The  institution 
is  directed  by  a superintendent  and  various  officials,  and  is  under  the 
supervision  of  a board  of  high  army  officers,  at  the  head  of  which  is 
the  Lieutenant-General  of  the  Army. 

The  main  building  is  of  white  marble,  and  has  a frontage  of  two 
hundred  feet,  with  a wing  of  sixty  feet,  and  a tall  central  tower.  It  is 
two  stories  in  height,  and  is  fashioned  after  the  Norman  order  of  archi- 
tecture. On  the  grounds  are  several  elegant  marble  cottages,  occupied 
by  the  officials  ; a pretty  church  of  Seneca  stone  ; a capacious  hospital 
building  with  wide  piazzas,  from  which  charming  views  of  Washington 
and  the  Potomac  can  be  had ; a fine  library  building,  well  stocked 
with  books  and  periodicals,  and  numerous  other  structures.  On  the 
brow  of  one  of  the  hills  stands  a bronze  statue  of  General  Scott  by 
Launt  Thompson,  erected  in  1874  at  a cost  of  $18,000.  The  entire 
estate  is  enclosed  by  a low  stone  wall,  surmounted  by  a small  iron 
fence  of  handsome  design.  Fifty  acres  are  under  cultivation,  and  fine 
crops  of  fruits  and  vegetables  are  raised. 

Near  the  main  building  is  a large  cottage  used  by  the  Presidents 
of  the  United  States  as  a summer  residence.  It  is  surrounded  by 
noble  trees,  and  has  a very  attractive  appearance.  Buchanan  was  the 
first  President  to  pass  the  summer  here,  and  Lincoln,  Johnson,  Hayes, 
and  Arthur  have  lived  on  this  grand  estate. 


200 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


The  Navy  Department  is  directed  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy, 
who  is  a member  of  the  Cabinet,  and  is  required  to  execute  the  com- 
mands of  the  President  in  regard  to  the  naval  establishment.  Like 
the  other  Cabinet  ministers,  his  compensation  is  $8,000  per  year.  He 
has  a chief  clerk  at  a salary  of  $2,500,  a disbursing  clerk  at  $2,250, 
a stenographer  at  $1,600,  and  other  clerks  and  employes  whose  total 
salaries  amount  to  $40,000  per  year.  The  department  occupies  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  and  has  finely 
embellished  suites  of  rooms.  The  Secretary’s  office  is  decorated  in 
Greek  style,  and  furnished  very  handsomely.  During  the  customary 
business  hours  the  Secretary  is  to  be  found  at  his  desk  attending  to 
the  many  affairs  with  which  he  is  charged,  receiving  callers,  and 
listening  to  reports  from  the  different  bureaus  of  the  department. 
These  bureaus  are  as  follows:  Yards  and  Docks,  Navigation,  Ord- 
nance, Provision  and  Clothing,  Medicine  and  Surgery,  Construction 
and  Repairs,  Equipment  and  Recruiting,  and  Steam  Engineering. 
Each  bureau  is  in  charge  of  a high  officer  of  the  navy,  and  is  pro- 
vided with  a numerous  force  of  officials  and  employes. 

At  present  the  navy  consists  of  thirty-seven  cruising  war-vessels, 
“ creditable  in  tbeir  appearance,  well  adapted  for  ordinary  naval 
exercises,  and  useful  for  displaying  the  national  flag  upon  the  seas 
and  in  the  harbors  of  the  commercial  world.”  But  they  are  of  low 
speed  and  mostly  built  of  wood,  and  gradually  will  be  replaced  by 
new  iron  or  steel  ships,  constructed  in  the  very  best  manner.  There 
are  also  numerous  steamers  and  small  craft,  and  thirteen  monitors,  or 
armored  vessels,  mostly  laid  up  since  their  use  in  the  Civil  War,  but 
kept  in  good  condition.  In  the  service  at  sea  and  on  shore  there  are 
over  eighteen  hundred  naval  officers,  and  there  are  also  over  three 
hundred  officers  on  the  retired  list.  The  seamen  number  over  seven 
thousand,  and  the  apprentices  950.  The  marine  corps  has  2,077 
officers  and  enlisted  men.  The  pay  of  the  Admiral  of  the  Navy  is 
$13,000  per  year,  and  of  the  V’ice- Admiral,  $9,000.  Rear-admirals 
are  paid  $6,000,  commodores  $5,000,  captains  $4,500,  commanders 
$3,500,  and  lieutenant-commanders  from  $2,800  to  $3,000.  Lieu- 
tenants are  paid  from  $2,000  to  $2,600,  and  masters  from  $1,800  to 
,$2,000.  The  pay  of  seamen  is  $258,  and  of  ordinary  seamen  $210. 
Over  seven  million  dollars  are  annually  paid  to  the  naval  force. 

The  maintenance  of  the  Navy  Department  requires  the  yearly 
expenditure  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  million  dollars,  the  amount  de- 
pending very  much  on  the  construction  of  new  vessels.  Provisions- 


THE  NAVY  DEPARTMENT. 


201 


■■-' ■■-~-  ' - .i  — — — n’  l'Wfl^^— 

THE  NAVAL  OBSERVATORY. 

for  the  navy  cost  $2,200,000  per  year;  coal  and  various  articles  of 
equipment,  $1,000,000,  and  the  expenses  of  the  bureaus  of  the  de- 
partment are  $250,000. 

The  hydrographic  office,  under  the  direction  of  the  Bureau  of 
Navigation,  supplies  the  navy  with  charts,  its  surveying  work  cover- 
ing all  the  navigable  waters  of  the  globe,  with  the  exception  of  those 
of  the  United  States,  which  are  surveyed  and  chartered  by  the  United 
States  Coast  Survey,  a bureau  of  the  Treasury  Department.  It  pub- 
lishes a series  of  charts  for  the  benefit  of  navigators,  and  also  numer- 
ous volumes  of  sailing  directions,  and  other  information  of  great  value 
to  those  whose  business  is  on  the  mighty  deep.  A large  force  of 
draughtsmen,  engravers,  and  copper-plate  printers  is  employed  in 
producing  the  charts  and  volumes.  One  of  the  largest  chart  printing- 
presses  in  the  world  is  to  be  found  in  this  office. 

In  1855  the  Bureau  of  Navigation  began  the  publication  of  the 
American  Efhemeris  and  Nautical  Almanac,  which  is  regarded 
as  a standard  authority,  both  here  and  in  Europe.  It  is  published 
three  years  in  advance  of  the  time  for  which  it  is  required.  An 
able  staff  of  scientists  devote  themselves  to  the  difficult  labor  of  mak- 


202 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ing  the  computations.  The  first  part  of  the  work  is  designed  for 
the  use  of  navigators,  and  is  adapted  to  the  meridian  of  Greenwich. 
It  contains  ephemerides  of  the  sun,  moon,  principal  planets,  and  fixed 
stars.  The  second  part  is  for  the  use  of  astronomers  on  land,  for 
surveyors  and  scientific  men  generally,  and  is  adapted  to  the  meridian 
of  Washington. 

The  Bureau  of  Yards  and  Docks  has  charge  of  the  navy  yards 
throughout  the  United  States.  There  are  eight  of  these  yards,  the 
principal  one  being  at  Brooklyn,  New  York.  They  have  great 
docks,  work-shops,  and  store-houses,  and  the  most  approved  machin- 
ery for  constructing  and  repairing  ships,  and  for  the  manufacture  of 
ordnance,  cordage,  and  all  naval  equipments.  The  yard  in  Wash- 
ington was  established  in  1804,  and  for  many  years  some  of  the  best 
ships  in  the  navy  were  constructed  in  it.  Of  late,  however,  it  has 
been  chiefly  used  for  the  manufacture  of  naval  supplies.  Here  are 
manufactured  all  the  chain  cables  and  anchors  used  in  the  navy,  and 
all  the  ordnance,  such  as  rifles,  breech-loading  guns,  howitzers  and 
boat-guns,  and  many  other  articles  entering  into  the  construction  and 
•equipment  of  vessels  of  war.  The  yard  is  situated  at  the  termination 
of  Eighth  Street  east,  about  a mile  from  the  Capitol,  and  covers  nearly 
twenty-eight  acres.  It  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  Anacostia  River,  and 
has  a fine  water  frontage.  It  is  in  charge  of  a commodore,  who  has 
a staff  of  naval  officers  as  assistants.  Visitors  will  find  numerous  ob- 
jects of  interest  in  the  yard.  The  work-shops,  museum,  laboratory, 
monitors  and  ships  of  war  can  be  inspected.  The  museum  contains 
many  naval  relics,  and  a large  collection  of  arms,  torpedoes,  and  mar- 
itime appliances. 

The  extensive  Marine  Barracks  are  situated  on  Eighth  Street,  a 
short  distance  from  the  navy  yard.  They  were  constructed  at  a 
cost  of  $350,000,  and  are  the  headquarters  of  the  marine  corps, 
which  is  an  adjunct  to  the  naval  force. 

Located  on  the  hill  where  General  Braddock’s  troops  encamped 
in  1755,  is  the  United  States  Naval  Observatory,  or,  as  it  is  also 
called,  the  National  Observatory.  It  is  on  the  goveimment  reserva- 
tion of  nineteen  acres  bounded  by  Twenty-third,  Twenty-fourtli,  and 
Twenty-fifth  streets  and  the  Potomac  River,  and  stands  about  ninety- 
six  feet  above  tide-water.  The  structure  is  surmounted  by  a large 
dome,  and  has  two  wings.  The  observatory  is  in  charge  of  the  Bu- 
reau of  Navigation,  and  its  superintendent  is  a rear-admiral  of  the 


NAVAL  OBSERVATORY 


203 


navy.  It  was  established  in  1842,  and  now  ranks  among  the  foremost 
observatories  in  the  world.  Here  is  the  great  twenty-six  inch  equa- 
torial telescope,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  powerful  ever  constructed. 
It  was  mounted  in  1873,  and  cost  $47, 000.  It  rests  upon  a solid  found- 
ation of  masonry  deeply  imbedded  in  the  earth,  and,  with  its  base, 
weighs  six  tons.  The  dome  in  which  it  is  placed  is  forty-one  feet  in 
diameter,  and  forty  feet  in  height.  The  observatory  has  also  a nine 
and  one-half  inch  equatorial  telescope,  set  in  a dome  twenty-three 
feet  in  diameter,  and  twenty  feet  high.  These  far-reaching  instru- 
ments are  used  for  much  of  the  difficult  and  important  astronomical 
work  for  which  this  observatory  is  famous.  A transit  circle,  with  an 
object-glass  of  8.22  inches,  is  used  for  observations  of  the  sun  and 
moon,  and  some  of  the  planets.  The  best  apparatus  is  to  be  found 
in  the  observatory,  and  from  month  to  month  a large  amount  of  labor 
is  performed  in  the  way  of  astronomical  researches  and  computations. 


G STREET,  SHOWING  FOUNDRY  AND  EPIPHANY  CHURCHES, 


THE  METROPOLITAN  M.  E.  CHURCH 


CHAPTER  XIll 


THE  POST-OFFICE  DEPARTMENT  — ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  POSTAL  SERVICE  — 
THE  CONTRACT  DIVISION  — BIDDING  FOR  THE  “ STAR”  ROUTES  — THE  DEAD- 
LETTER  OFFICE  — ITS  PECULIAR  WORK,  AND  ITS  WORKERS  — MONEY-ORDER 
OFFICE  — POSTAL  FACTS  AND  FIGURES. 

The  Post-Office  Department  occupies  a marble  building  sit- 
uated on  the  square  between  Seventh  and  Eighth,  and  E 
and  F streets  northwest.  The  building  is  of  the  delicate 
Corinthian  order,  and  is  a notable  example  of  architectural 
grace  and  beauty.  Its  faqades  are  ornamented  with  monolithic  col- 
umns and  pilasters,  with  beautiful  capitals,  and  the  architrave,  frieze, 
and  cornice  are  designed  in  pure  classic  style.  It  is  three  hundred 
feet  from  north  to  south,  and  two  hundred  and  four  feet  from  east  to 
west.  It  has  two  stories  resting  upon  a rustic  basement,  with  deep, 
spacious  vaults  below.  That  portion  on  E Street  was  erected  of  New 
York  marble  in  1839,  from  designs  by  Robert  Mills.  In  1855  the 
building  was  extended  over  tbe  entire  square,  the  extensions  being 
designed  by  Thomas  U.  Walter,  and  constructed  of  Maryland  mar- 
ble. The  cost  of  construction  was  nearly  two  million  dollars.  The 
building  contains  eighty-five  apartments  excellently  arranged  for  the 
postal  business,  and  most  of  them  are  elegantly  decorated  and  fur- 
nished. 

By  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  Congress  was  given  the 
right  “ to  establish  post-offices  and  post-roads.”  The  office  of  Post- 
master-General was  created  in  1789,  and  the  General  Post-Office  was 
established  in  1794.  On  the  2d  of  March,  1799,  Congress  passed  an 
act  to  establish  the  General  Post-Office  in  Washington.  The  depart- 


2o6 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ment  has  had  a marvelous  growth.  Fifty  years  ago  there  were  10,693 
post-offices  throughout  the  country,  and  the  revenue  from  them  was 
only  $2,823,749.  At  present  there  are  47,863  post-offices,  and  the 
yearly  revenue  of  the  department  is  over  $45,000,000.  To  carry 
on  the  postal  service  requires  the  assistance  of  67,000  persons. 

The  site  of  the  Post-Office  Building  was  originally  occupied  in 
the  early  days  of  Washington  by  a large  brick  structure  erected  for  a 
hotel  by  a sanguine  speculator,  who  believed  that  the  new  capital 
would  rapidly  become  a great  city.  Before  the  hotel  was  finished  his 
funds  gave  out,  and  the  building  was  offered  as  a prize  in  a lottery, 
and  drawn  by  two  orphan  children  to  whom  the  lucky  ticket  had  been 
presented  by  a friend.  They  were  without  means  to  finish  it,  and  it 
was  suffered  to  remain  in  an  unfinished  state  for  nearly  ten  years. 
Here  the  first  play  ever  given  in  the  city  was  performed  by  a troupe 
of  strolling  players,  some  of  whom  afterward  achieved  distinction  on 
the  American  stage.  It  was  used  now  and  then  as  a theatre  until 
1810,  when  the  government  purchased  and  completed  it,  using  it  for 
the  post-office,  and  also  to  store  the  first  collections  of  patent  models 
ever  made.  When  the  British  invaders  burned  the  public  buildings 
in  1814,  this  one  was  spared  through  the  efforts  of  Dr.  William  Thorn- 
ton, then  in  charge  of  the  patent  business.  He  appealed  to  the 
soldiers  sent  to  destroy  it,  who  were  his  countrymen,  and  succeeded 
in  persuading  them  to  stay  the  work  of  destruction  until  the  next  day. 
Then  the  troops  had  left  the  city,  and  this  building  was  the  only  pub- 
lic one  to  which  the  incendiary  torch  had  not  been  applied.  Con- 
gress held  one  session  in  it  after  the  burning  of  the  Capitol,  and  the 
post-office  occupied  the  first  story  until  Dec.  15,  1836,  when  a fire 
completely  destroyed  it.  In  the  fire  were  consumed  the  collections  of 
the  patent  office,  stored  in  the  second  story,  which  numbered  over 
four  thousand  models,  the  accumulation  of  nearly  half  a century.  A 
private  building  was  then  rented  for  the  post-oflice,  and  was  used 
until  the  present  building  was  erected. 

The  Postmaster-General,  who  has  the  supervision  of  the  affairs  of 
the  Post-Office  Department,  is  a member  of  the  Cabinet,  and  receives 
$8,000  per  year.  There  are  three  assistant  postmasters-general, 
appointed  by  the  President,  who  receive  $4,000  each.  The  Postmas- 
ter-General has  a chief  clerk  at  $2,200,  a stenographer  at  $1,800,  an 
appointment  clerk  at  $1,800,  a law  clerk  at  $2,500,  and  a dozen  or  so 
other  employes  for  the  special  business  of  his  office.  He  appoints  all 


THE  POST-OFFICE  DEPARTMENT. 


207 


postmasters  for  offices  to  which  a salary  of  not  more  than  $1,000 
is  attached.  The  other  postmasters  come  within  the  “Presidential 
classes,”  and  are  appointed  by  the  President.  They  number  2,175, 
with  total  salaries  of  $3,750,000.  The  office  of  the  Postmaster- 
General  is  a richly  furnished  apartment ; near  it  are  the  offices  of 
the  assistant  postmasters-general — large,  elegant  apartments. 

The  bureau  of  the  first  assistant  postmaster-general  has  five  divis- 
ions, viz.  : the  appointment  division,  the  bond  division,  the  salary  and 
allowance  division,  the  free  delivery  division,  and  the  blank  agency 
division.  The  bureau  acts  upon  the  establishment  of  new  post-offices, 
and  the  appointment  of  postmasters,  postal  clerks,  agents,  and  others  ; 
attends  to  the  bonds  required,  has  the  supervision  of  the  free  delivery 
system,  adjusts  the  salaries  of  postmasters,  considers  allowances  for 
the  various  expenditures  of  post-offices,  and  furnishes  the  greater  part 
of  what  are  called  “ department  supplies.”  A large  amount  of  busi- 
ness is  transacted  in  the  different  divisions,  and  seventy-five  officials 
and  clerks  are  employed.  In  regard  to  the  free  delivery  system  it 
may  be  said  that  it  is  now  in  use  in  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  cities, 
and  requires  the  services  of  3,680  letter-carriers,  whose  yearly  salaries 
amount  to  more  than  $3,000,000.  The  postmasters  of  the  country 
are  annually  paid  over  $12,000,000,  and  postal  clerks,  $4,900,000. 

Few  persons  are  aware  of  the  magnitude  of  the  postal  business, 
particularly  that  portion  of  it  relating  to  the  transportation  of  the  mails. 
The  transportation  service  is  in  charge  of  the  second  assistant  post- 
master-general, and  the  three  divisions  of  his  bureau  are  known  as 
the  contract  division  — familiarly  called  the  “ contract  office,”  — the 
inspection  division,  and  the  mail  equipment  division.  To  transact 
the  business  of  this  bureau  requires  one  hundred  employes. 

The  “ star  service,”  or  the  “ star  routes  ” as  they  are  usually  called, 
is  that  portion  of  the  mail  transportation  not  covered  by  railroads  and 
steamboats.  In  the  endeavor  of  the  Post-Office  Department  to  furnish 
all  communities  with  mail  facilities,  use  is  made  of  private  conveyances 
in  sections  of  the  country,  particularly  in  the  far  West,  where  there 
are  no  railroads  or  steamboats.  The  mails  are  carried  over  these 
special  or  star  routes  by  contractors  who  make  bids  for  the  service, 
and  furnish  the  horses  and  wagons  and  the  persons  required.  These 
routes  number  very  nearly  8,000,  and  are  mostly  in  the  western  and 
southwestern  states  and  the  territories.  Their  yearly  cost  is  upwards 
of  five  million  dollars,  and  their  aggregate  length  is  226,865  miles. 


2o8 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


By  these  routes  mails  are  carried  to  the  mining  camps,  to  the  interior 
villages,  and  to  communities  located  away  from  the  great  highways 
of  travel.  The  service  is  very  useful  and  important,  and  has  largely 
aided  in  the  settlement  of  the  western  country. 

The  contract  office  attends  to  all  the  mail  lettings.  The  countrv 
is  divided  into  four  postal  sections,  and  bids  are  received  and  con- 
tracts made  for  carrying  the  mails  in  one  section  every  year.  As 
many  as  100,000  bids  will  be  received  in  some  years.  The  depart- 
ment has  no  discretion  in  the  matter  of  mail  lettings,  as  the  law 
directs  that  the  routes  shall  be  awarded  in  all  cases  to  the  lowest 
bidders,  if  their  bids  are  in  proper  form.  Contracts  for  mail  trans- 
portation, after  the  acceptance  of  bids,  must  be  filed  in  the  depart- 
ment within  a certain  time.  If  an  accepted  bidder  fails  to  file  his 
contract  by  the  time  specified,  he  becomes  a “failing  bidder,”  and 
the  route  is  awarded  to  the  next  lowest  bidder. 

On  the  day  fixed  for  closing  the  bids  the  Postmaster-General  as- 
signs three  officials  of  the  department  to  open  and  stamp  all  those 
received.  In  the  basement  story  of  the  post-office  is  a massive  vault 
in  which  all  the  bids  are  kept,  and  near  at  hand  is  a printing-press. 
The  three  officials,  aided  by  a force  of  clerks,  first  assort  the  bids  by 
states ; then  the  bids  are  opened  and  passed  through  the  press,  and 
have  imprinted  on  them  the  special  seal  of  the  department,  which 
shows  the  date  they  were  opened.  When  all  the  bids  have  been 
opened  and  stamped  they  are  taken  to  the  room  of  the  chief  clerk 
of  the  contract  office,  where  they  are  examined  by  clerks  detailed 
for  the  purpose,  to  see  if  they  are  proper  in  form.  The  amount  is 
then  indorsed  on  the  back  of  each  bid,  and  then  the  bids  are  “ listed” 
or  classified  according  to  the  routes,  after  which  they  are  recorded 
in  route-books  specially  prepared. 

After  all  this  tedious  and  laborious  work  is  done,  the  chief  clerk 
goes  over  the  route-books  and  designates  the  lowest  bidder  for  each 
route.  An  acceptance  is  then  prepared  by  the  Postmaster-General 
and  sent  to  each  lowest  bidder,  who  executes  a contract  according  to 
the  terms  of  the  bid.  The  contracts  are  made  in  duplicate,  and  when 
received,  one  is  retained  by  the  Postmaster-General,  and  the  other  is 
sent  to  the  Sixth  Auditor  of  the  Treasury,  who  has  charge  of  the  dis- 
bursements of  the  Post-Office  Department. 

The  railroad  mail  routes  number  nearly  1,400,  and  the  yearly  ex- 
penditure for  the  transportation  of  mails  over  them  is  $13,000,000. 


THE  DEAD-LETTER  OFFICE. 


209 


THE  GENERAL  POST-OFFICE. 

There  are  more  than  one  hundred  steamboat  routes,  which  cost  $625,- 
000.  The  mail  messenger  service  on  the  railroads  is  performed  at  a 
cost  of  $800,000,  and  the  railroad  postal  clerks  are  paid  $3,700,000. 
At  present  the  railroad  mail  service  is  110,208  miles  in  length. 

The  third  assistant  postmaster-general  has  charge  of  the  follow- 
ing divisions : The  division  of  finance,  the  division  of  postage- 

stamps  and  stamped  envelopes,  the  division  of  registered  letters, 
and  the  division  of  dead  letters.  It  is  the  duty  of  this  official  to 
pay  the  mail  contractors,  to  collect  the  postal  revenues,  to  issue  post- 
age-stamps,  stamped  envelopes,  and  postal  cards  to  the  post-offices, 
and  to  attend  to  the  business  connected  with  registered  letters  and 
dead  letters. 

The  Dead-Letter  Office  occupies  a spacious  apartment  in  the  F 
Street  portion  of  the  department  building,  and  can  be  inspected  by 
visitors.  The  apartment  has  a wide  gallery,  and  is  well  lighted  by  a 
glass  roof  and  high,  broad  windows.  The  office  has  a chief  with  a 
salary  of  $2,250,  and  a force  of  one  hundred  male  and  female  clerks. 

14 


210 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


About  15,000  dead  letters  are  received  every  day  from  the  post- 
offices  of  the  country,  and  a great  quantity  of  other  mail-matter.  All 
the  “ dead  mail”  is  first  examined  by  the  chief  clerk  and  his  assist- 
ants, in  order  to  ascertain  if  there  is  anything  in  it  which  has  been 
improperly  sent  to  the  office.  This  is  a very  needful  practice,  as 
every  day  a number  of  letters  are  discovered  properly  addressed  and 
stamped,  and  which  should  have  been  delivered.  By  carelessness 
on  the  part  of  postmasters  and  postal  clerks,  a letter  plainly  addressed 
to  a place,  say  in  Pennsylvania,  will  be  sent  to  a place,  say  in  Texas. 
The  postmaster  there,  instead  of  forwarding  it  to  the  place  to  which  it 
is  addressed,  will  retain  it  the  customary  time,  and  then  send  it  to 
the  dead-letter  office.  These  letters  are  taken  out  of  the  dead  mail 
and  forwarded  by  the  department  to  the  post-offices  to  which  they 
should  have  gone  in  the  first  place,  accompanied  by  an  official  order 
to  the  postmasters  that  they  shall  request  the  parties  claiming  the 
letters  to  allow  the  envelopes  to  be  returned  to  Washington.  The 
envelopes  thus  obtained  are  put  on  record,  and  a reprimand  is  sent  to 
the  postal  officials  through  whose  carelessness  the  mistakes  occurred. 
Upon  an  average,  four  thousand  of  these  “ careless  letters”  are  dis- 
covered every  year. 

When  the  dead  letters  have  been  examined  by  the  chief  clerk  and 
his  assistants  they  are  given  into  the  hands  of  men  sitting  at  long 
tables,  who  deftly  cut  open  each  envelope  with  a sharp,  long-bladed 
knife,  and  examine  the  enclosure  to  ascertain  if  it  contains  any  valua- 
bles. If  anything  is  found  the  finder  makes  a detailed  record  of  it  in 
a small  book  lying  at  his  hand,  and  the  letter  is  put  aside.  Those 
letters  which  contain  nothing  of  value  are  passed  over  to  a force  of 
women  in  the  gallery,  who  search  them  to  ascertain  if  they  bear  an 
address  by  which  they  can  be  returned  to  the  writers.  If  one  is  found 
the  department  sends  the  letter  back  to  the  writer.  The  others  ai'e 
consigned  to  the  waste  matter,  which  is  taken  at  certain  intervals  to 
West  Washington,  to  a government  structure,  cut  up,  and  thorouglily 
reduced  to  pulp. 

If  a letter  or  parcel  with  anything  of  value  contains  an  address  it 
is  returned  at  once,  but  if  there  is  no  address  the  property  is  retained 
for  six  months,  and  then  is  disposed  of  at  auction,  at  what  are  termed 
“ sales  of  unclaimed  and  undeliverable  mail-matter.”  A careful 
record  is  made  of  the  sales,  and  tlie  amount  received  for  any  article 
can  be  recovered  upon  application  any  time  witliin  four  years. 


THE  MONEY-ORDER  OFFICE. 


2II 


A peculiarity  of  the  dead-letter  office  is,  that  the  letters  are  all 
opened  by  elderly  men,  quite  a number  of  whom  are  in  the  “ sere 
and  yellow  leaf”  time  of  existence,  with  hair  and  beards  fully  frosted 
by  many  winters.  The  parcels  are  all  opened  by  elderly  women. 
It  is  only  for  the  other  work  that  young  persons  are  employed.  The 
reason  for  this,  it  is  said,  comes  from  a belief  that  men  and  women 
of  mature  age  will  be  more  conscientious  in  regard  to  valuables  found 
in  the  letters  and  parcels  — that  is,  will  not  secrete  anything  they  find. 
It  would  be  quite  an  easy  matter  for  a person  opening  a letter  or  parcel 
which  contained  a bank-note,  or  something  else  of  value,  to  slyly 
pocket  it,  and  in  a majority  of  the  cases  it  would  be  difficult,  if  not 
impossible,  to  detect  the  theft. 

Great  quantities  of  money  are  found.  In  one  recent  year  20,000 
letters  were  opened  that  contained  $45,000  in  bank-notes.  The  arti- 
cles found  are  of  most  every  sort,  and  quite  often  they  are  of  consid- 
erable value.  Checks,  drafts,  and  money-orders  yearly  discovered 
represent  a value  of  more  than  two  million  dollars.  Between  thirty 
and  forty  thousand  photographs  come  into  the  office  every  year ; 
and,  strangest  of  all,  nearly  ten  thousand  letters  annually  appear  in 
the  dead  mail  which  have  no  address  upon  their  envelopes. 

The  Money -Order  Office  is  located  in  a high  brick  building  adja- 
cent to  the  Post-Office.  It  is  in  charge  of  a superintendent  who  has 
a salary  of  $3,500,  and  employs  numerous  clerks.  Here  the  money- 
orders  that  have  been  paid  are  received  from  all  the  money-order 
offices  in  the  United  States,  and  from  foreign  countries.  They  are 
classified,  and  then  the  accounts  of  postmasters  In  reference  to  the 
money-order  business  are  verified  and  audited.  As  the  business  is 
very  extensive  and  complicated,  the  accounts  require  the  greatest  of 
care  in  their  settlement.  Over  nine  millions  of  American  and  foreign 
money-orders  are  issued  in  a year,  representing  a value  of  $125,- 
000,000. 

No  department  of  the  government  is  better  managed  than  that  of 
the  post-office.  The  details  of  its  immense  business  are  thoroughly 
attended  to,  its  expenditures  are  usually  very  judicious,  and  its  work- 
ing  system  is  constantly  being  improved  to  meet  the  public  require- 
ment. 


THE  NEW  PENSION-  BLILDING. 


CHAPTER  XIV 


DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  INTERIOR  — THE  PATENT  OFFICE  AND  MUSEUM  OF 
MODELS— THE  PENSION  OFFICE  — ITS  ENORMOUS  EXPENDITURE  AND  BUSI- 
NESS — GENERAL  LAND  OFFICE  — HOW  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS  ARE  DISPOSED 
OF  — BUREAU  OF  INDIAN  AFFAIRS  — BUREAU  OF  EDUCATION. 

The  Department  of  the  Interior  was  created  by  act  of  Con- 
gress in  1849.  It  is  an  extensive  and  important  branch  of 
the  public  service,  and  comprises  the  Patent  Office,  the  Pen- 
sion Office,  the  General  Land  Office,  the  Census  Office,  the 
Bureau  of  Indian  Affairs,  the  Bureau  of  Education,  the  Office  of  the 
Commissioner  of  Railroads,  and  the  Office  of  the  Geological  Sur- 
vey. It  is  under  the  supervision  and  control  of  the  Secretary  of  the 
Interior,  who  is  a Cabinet  minister,  and  has  a compensation  of  $8,000 
per  year.  The  Secretary  has  also  the  general  supervision  of  the 
Capitol  (through  the  office  of  the  architect),  the  Government  Print- 
ing-Office, the  Government  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  and  the  Colum- 
bia Institution  for  tbe  Deaf  and  Dumb.  Each  office  and  bureau  of 
the  Department  of  the  Interior  is  managed  by  a commissioner  or 
director,  who  has  his  own  force  of  officials  and  clerks. 

The  colossal  structure  known  as  the  Patent  Office,  which  extends 
from  Seventh  to  Ninth  streets,  and  from  F to  G streets  northwest,  is 
occupied  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  and  sundry  bureaus  of  tbe 
department.  It  stands  upon  a government  reservation  of  four  acres, 
which  was  set  apart  by  L’Enfantin  bis  plan  of  Washington  for  a great 
national  church,  and  is  four  hundred  and  ten  feet  from  east  to  west, 
and  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  from  north  to  south.  Its  erec- 
tion was  begun  in  1837,  the  main  division,  which  was  constructed 
of  Virginia  freestone  and  granite,  was  completed  in  1842.  An  east 


214 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


wing  was  added  in  1853,  and  north  and  west  wings  some  years  later. 
The  east  and  west  wings  were  constructed  of  marble  from  Maryland 
quarries,  and  the  north  wing  of  granite.  The  building  is  of  the  Doric 
order  of  architecture,  has  two  stories  and  a rustic  basement,  and  is 
nearly  seventy-five  feet  high.  The  main  entrance  is  on  F Street, 
through  a massive  portico  of  two  rows  of  huge  columns,  which  was 
designed  after  that  of  the  Parthenon  in  Athens,  and  is  precisely  of  the 
same  dimensions.  A lofty  flight  of  broad  granite  steps  leads  to  the 
portico.  On  the  Seventh  Street  side  is  another  great  portico,  and 
smaller  ones  are  on  the  north  and  west.  There  is  an  interior  court- 
yard ornamented  with  fountains  and  flower-beds.  The  building  con- 
tains nearly  two  hundred  apartments,  besides  the  extensive  halls  of 
the  Museum  of  Models.  The  architects  were  Robert  Mills,  who  con- 
structed the  original  portion,  and  Edward  Clark,  who  constructed  the 
extensions.  The  cost  of  construction  was  $2,700,000. 

There  is  an  assistant  secretary  of  the  interior,  with  a salary  of 
$4,000,  and  the  department  office  is  provided  with  a chief  clerk  at 
$2,750,  a superintendent  of  documents  at  $2,000,  six  chiefs  of  divis- 
ions at  $2,000  each,  and  many  clerks  and  employes.  The  Commis- 
sioner of  Patents  has  a salary  of  $4,500 ; the  Commissioner  of  Pen- 
sions, $5,000;  the  Commissioner  of  the  Land  Office,  $4,000;  the 
Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  $4,000 ; the  Commissioner  of  Edu- 
cation, $3,000;  the  Commissioner  of  Railroads,  $4,500,  and  the  Di- 
rector of  the  Geological  Survey,  $6,000. 

The  Patent  Office  occupies  many  apartments  of  the  build- 
ing that  bears  its  name,  and  employs  a host  of  workers  in  its  enor- 
mous and  constantly  increasing  business.  It  is  not  only  self-sustain- 
ing, but  it  is  very  profitable.  In  1883  its  receipts  were  more  than  one 
million  dollars,  and  the  profits  exceeded  $500,000.  There  are  up- 
wards of  21,000  patents  issued  annually,  covering  nearly  every  con- 
ceivable thing  under  the  sun,  and,  in  addition,  there  are  hundreds 
of  caveats  filed,  and  trade-marks  and  labels  registered.  The  office 
is  divided  into  divisions,  in  each  of  which  are  examiners  who  have 
charge  of  certain  classes  of  inventions.  When  a patent  is  applied 
for,  these  examiners  make  the  necessary  investigations,  carefully  ex- 
amining the  invention  claimed  to  be  new,  and  patiently  and  labori- 
ously comparing  it,  part  by  part,  with  devices  already  patented,  in 
order  to  determine  whether  or  not  the  application  for  a patent  can  be 
granted.  The  principal  examiners  receive  salaries  of  $2,400,  and 


THE  PATENT  OFFICE. 


215 


THE  PATENT  OFFICE. 

the  assistant  examiners  from  $1,200  to  $1,800.  Three  examiners-in- 
chief,  who  supervise  and  finally  decide  as  to  the  work  of  the  others, 
receive  $3,000  each.  An  examiner  in  charge  of  interferences  re- 
ceives $2,500,  and  a trade-mark  examiner,  $2,400.  All  applications 
for  patents  are  classified  as  soon  as  received,  and  are  taken  up  and 
disposed  of  in  regular  order,  as  far  as  practicable.  A patent  con- 
tinues for  seventeen  years,  unless  the  article  patented  has  been  pre- 
viously patented  in  a foreign  country,  in  which  case  the  American 
patent  expires  with  the  date  of  the  foreign  one. 

Since  1872  the  office  has  issued  a weekly  publication  called  The 
Official  Gazette,  which  takes  the  place  of  the  old  Patent  Office  Pc- 
fort.  It  contains  the  claims  of  every  patent  issued,  including  the 
reissues,  with  drawings  illustrating  the  patents,  the  full  list  of  designs 
patented,  and  the  decisions  of  the  commissioner.  The  copies  of  the 
monthly  edition  are  authenticated  by  the  official  seal,  and  are  received 
as  evidence  in  the  United  States  courts.  One  copy  of  this  edition  is 
sent  to  each  state  library,  and  one  copy  is  deposited  in  the  clerk’s 
office  of  each  United  States  district  court,  for  public  reference.  Sen- 
ators and  Representatives  are  also  entitled  to  designate  eight  public 
libraries  in  their  states  to  which  copies  will  be  sent  gratuitously. 


2i6 


PICTURESQLIE  WASHINGTON. 


A fine  library  is  provided  for  the  use  of  inventors,  and  its  rooms 
on  the  first  floor  of  the  patent  office  are  much  frequented  by  that 
class.  Congress  annually  appropriates  $5,000  for  the  purchase  of 
hooks.  The  library  contains  about  twelve  thousand  volumes,  com- 
prising the  best  works  published  in  all  the  lines  of  invention  and 
mechanics,  and  the  collections  of  foreign  publications  are  specially 
valuable.  The  librarian  has  a salary  of  $2,000. 

The  numerous  rooms  used  by  the  patent  office  are  filled  with 
officials,  examiners,  draughtsmen,  clerks,  and  copyists,  busy  as  bees 
investigating  claims,  comparing  inventions,  copying  designs  and  speci- 
fications, and  otherwise  attending  to  the  multifarious  business.  There 
are  one  hundred  and  forty-two  examiners  of  patents,  and  over  four 
hundred  clerks  and  other  employes.  Since  1838  the  patent  office 
has  accumulated  a surplus  of  $2,700,000,  which  stands  to  its  credit 
on  the  books  of  the  United  States  Treasury,  and  this  surplus  event- 
ually may  be  expended  in  the  erection  of  a new  building  for  its  sole 
use,  as  its  present  quarters  are  inadequate  for  the  business. 

The  Museum  of  Models  is  contained  in  four  lofty,  magnificent 
lialls,  extending  throughout  the  second  story  of  the  department  build- 
ing. Here  are  to  be  seen  300,000  models  of  patented  articles,  ar- 
ranged in  classes  and  subdivisions,  and  filling  hundreds  of  spacious 
cases,  all  properly  labeled  and  indexed.  By  means  of  these  models 
one  can  trace  the  progress  of  every  line  of  industry,  from  crude  de- 
signs to  the  perfected  machine,  wonderful  in  construction  and  almost 
human  in  action.  Here  is  the  result  of  the  profound  study  of  count- 
less men  diligently  working  in  all  the  industrial  fields  through  many 
years,  and  it  is  a marvelous  exhibition  of  human  capabilit}q  and  can 
be  inspected  for  hours,  and  even  days,  with  plentiful  profit  and  enjoy- 
ment. 

The  first  collections  of  patent  models,  comprising  everything  re- 
ceived by  the  government  from  1790  to  1836,  were  entirely  destroyed 
by  fire  when  tlie  Post-Office  Building,  in  which  the}^  were  stored,  was 
burned  on  Dec.  15,  1836.  Shortly  after  this  fire  Congress  enacted  a 
law  for  the  better  recording  of  patents,  requiring  models  in  every 
proper  case,  and  made  tlie  patent  office  a regular  branch  of  the  pub- 
lic service,  placing  it  in  charge  of  a commissioner.  Previous  to  that 
time  patents  had  been  issued  from  the  office  of  the  Secretary  of  State, 
under  the  direction  of  a clerk,  who  bore  tlie  title  of  superintendent 
ot  patents.  In  1877  a fire  in  the  north  and  west  halls  of  the  present 


THE  PENSION  OFFICE. 


217 


Museum  of  Models,  originating  among  a collection  of  ancient  docu- 
ments, destroyed  80,000  models.  These  halls  were  afterward  recon- 
structed at  a cost  of  $250,000. 

The  south  hall  of  the  museum  is  two  hundred  and  forty-two  feet 
in  length,  and  sixty-three  feet  in  width,  and  the  north,  east,  and  west 
halls  are  of  nearly  the  same  size.  They  are  of  handsome  design, 
and  present  many  pleasing  architectural  features.  The  museum  is 
open  daily,  and  visitors  are  allowed  to  gratuitously  inspect  the  vast 
collections  of  models  contained  in  it. 

The  Pension  Office  is  the  largest  bureau  of  the  Department  of 
the  Interior,  and  its  yearly  business  is  enormous.  It  is  a very  diffi- 
cult bureau  to  administer,  as  it  is  constantly  assailed  by  thousands  of 
dishonest  people,  whose  ingenious  trickery  in  the  invention  and  sub- 
stantiation of  claims  might  deceive  the  shrewdest  and  most  careful  of 
officials.  Bogus  claims  for  pensions  are  so  numerous  that  the  proper 
claims  are  very  much  delayed  in  their  settlement,  in  consequence  of 
the  great  amount  of  time  taken  to  detect  the  frauds.  When  it  is  con- 
sidered that  510,938  claims  were  allowed  from  1861  to  1883,  and  that 
during  the  time  the  prodigious  sum  of  $621,073,297  was  disbursed, 
the  work  of  the  office  will  be  better  appreciated.  There  are  at  pres- 
ent nearly  304,000  pensioners  on  the  rolls,  and  every  year  the  names 
of  from  25,000  to  30,000  are  added.  Upwards  of  275,000  claims  are 
pending.  The  Commissioner  of  Pensions  has  a large  working  force, 
which  is  making  all  possible  efforts  to  adjust  the  claims  on  file,  but 
it  must  be  necessarily  many  years  before  all  the  rightful  claimants  for 
pensions  can  receive  what  the  government  has  directed  to  be  paid. 
The  claims  are  now  taken  up  in  regular  order,  and  no  favoritism  is 
allowed  in  their  consideration. 

A careful  estimate  has  been  made  by  the  pension  office  that  there 
were  no  less  than  2,063,391  persons  who  entered  the  army  and  navy 
during  the  Civil  War.  Of  this  number  304,369  died  in  battles,  hos- 
pitals, or  otherwise  ; 285,545  were  discharged  for  disability,  and  there 
were  128,352  deserters.  On  the  ist  of  May,  1865,  the  number  in  the 
service  was  over  1,000,000,  and  previous  to  that  time  328,187  had 
been  discharged  on  account  of  the  expiration  of  their  terms  of  en- 
listment. Of  this  vast  host  applications  for  pensions  have  been  made 
by  over  500,000  rendered  invalids  by  the  war,  and  nearly  300,000  ap- 
plications also  have  been  made  by  those  representing  deceased  sol- 


2i8 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


diers  and  sailors.  At  present,  it  is  estimated,  that  there  are  about  86,- 
ooo  of  this  class  who  have  not  yet  presented  claims,  and  that  there 
are  nearly  1,000,000  survivors  of  the  war  who  have  never  made  ap- 
plication for  pensions  — that  is,  there  is  this  soldier  and  sailor  popula- 
tion in  the  United  States  out  of  which  thousands  of  claims  may  come 
in  the  future. 

It  will  be  seen  by  these  figures  that  the  pension  office  has  plenty 
of  business  on  hand,  and  to  come;  that  it  will  require  a large  force 
of  employes  to  attend  to  it,  and  the  expenditure  of  hundreds  of  mil- 
lions during  many  future  years  to  pay  all  the  claims.  The  office 
annually  disburses  over  $30,000,000  for  pensions,  and  as  much  more 
for  the  arrears  of  pensions.  All  this  money  goes  through  the  hands 
of  the  eighteen  pension  agents  in  various  sections  of  the  United  States 
to  the  persons  entitled  to  it.  Each  agent  is  assigned  to  a certain  dis- 
trict comprising  one  or  more  states,  or  parts  of  states.  They  give 
bonds  to  the  amount  of  $150,000,  with  justified  security  to  the  amount 
of  $300,000,  and  are  allowed  salaries  of  $4,000  each.  They  are 
tried  and  trusty  officials,  and,  although  handling  so  many  millions 
of  the  government  money  in  the  course  of  a year,  their  accounts  are 
invariably  exact  to  a dollar. 

The  pensions  are  from  one  dollar  to  one  hundred  dollars  per 
month,  the  last-named  sum,  however,  being  drawn  by  only  one  pen- 
sioner. There  are  seven  hundred  and  forty-five  pensioners  who  draw 
seventy-two  dollars  per  month,  and  four  hundred  and  twenty-five  who 
draw  fifty  dollars.  Over  seven  thousand  draw  twenty-four  dollars, 
and  nearly  thirteen  thousand  draw  eighteen  dollars.  A great  num- 
ber draw  from  eight  to  fifteen  dollars,  and  nearly  forty-three  thousand 
only  four  dollars.  There  are  eighteen  thousand  who  are  paid  only 
two  dollars,  and  about  sixteen  hundred  who  have  to  be  content  with 
one  dollar  per  month. 

The  pension  office  has  twelve  divisions,  each  in  charge  of  a chief 
with  a salary  of  $2,000.  Twenty-two  surgeons  are  employed,  witli 
salaries  from  $1,800  to  $2,500,  and  there  are  forty-two  principal  ex- 
aminers at  $2,000  each,  a number  of  other  officials,  and  about  fifteen 
hundred  clerks  and  employes.  The  annual  salary  list  of  the  office 
is  $1,945,000. 

The  pension  office  formerly  occupied  a large  brick  building  on 
Pennsylvania  Avenue,  corner  of  Twelltli  Street,  which  was  rented  by 
the  government,  but  early  in  1885  it  was  removed  to  the  new  Pension 


THE  GENERAL  LAND  OFFICE. 


219 


NORTH  HALL,  MUSEUM  OF  MODELS,  PATENT  OFFICE. 


Building  which  was  recently  completed  on  Judiciary  Square,  near  G 
Street.  The  new  building  resembles  the  great  Italian  palaces,  and 
has  many  unique  forms  of  architecture.  It  is  constructed  of  fine 
pressed  brick  with  terra  cotta  mouldings,  and  extends  400  feet  from 
east  to  west,  and  200  feet  from  north  to  south,  and  the  walls  are 
seventy-five  feet  high.  The  walls  surround  a large  interior  court- 
yard, which  has  a high  roof  of  iron  and  glass,  and  is  crowned  with 
a dome.  Two  tiers  of  galleries  extend  around  the  court-yard,  by 
which  access  is  gained  to  the  rooms.  On  the  first  story  there  is  a 
course  of  terra  cotta  extending  entirely  around  the  building,  consist- 
ing of  a band  three  feet  wide,  on  which  various  scenes  and  incidents 
of  a soldier’s  life  are  represented  in  finely  sculptured  figures.  The 
cost  of  the  building  is  about  $500,000. 

The  General  Land  Office,  which  has  charge  of  all  the  pub- 
lic lands  in  the  United  States,  occupies  a suite  of  apartments  in  the 


220 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Patent  Office  Building.  It  is  a very  important  bureau,  and  that  its 
work  is  extensive  may  be  inferred  from  the  number  of  its  officials  and 
clerks,  some  four  hundred  in  all,  whose  salaries  amount  to  nearly 
$500,000  per  year.  In  fact,  the  pressure  of  business  in  this  office  is 
very  great,  and  double  the  force  could  be  advantageously  employed, 
if  Congress  would  provide  for  the  increase  and  assign  larger  quarters 
for  the  work.  New  business  comes  in  faster  than  the  old  can  be  dis- 
posed of,  and  the  accumulation  of  affairs  is  very  embarrassing.  If 
the  entire  force  of  the  office  should  be  devoted  to  bringing  up  the  work 
in  arrears,  in  cases  all  prepared  for  final  action,  it  would  require  at 
least  two  years  to  accomplish  this  result.  Over  two  thousand  con- 
tested homestead  cases  are  pending,  and  there  are  fifty  thousand 
others  awaiting  settlement.  Besides  all  these  cases  there  are  six  thou- 
sand more  in  the  railroad  division,  which  have  to  be  decided  in  con- 
nection with  the  adjustment  of  land  grants  to  railroads.  There  is 
also  a great  accumulation  of  business  in  the  divisions  of  the  office 
which  have  charge  of  the  preemption  claims,  the  timber  culture  en- 
tries, and  the  claims  for  mineral  lands,  etc.  The  preemption  claims 
number  over  300,000,  and  of  these  about  20,000  are  awaiting  final 
action,  and  final  proof  is  likely  to  be  offered  at  any  time  upon  a ma- 
jority of  the  others.  The  work  is  disposed  of  as  fast  as  possible,  but 
as  much  of  it  requires  very  close  examination  of  a variety  of  compli- 
cated matters,  it  cannot  be  done  properly  in  a hurried  manner. 

Few  people,  except  those  interested  in  the  public  lands,  have  any 
definite  knowledge  as  to  the  territory  in  the  United  States  still  in  the 
possession  and  subject  to  the  control  of  the  government.  There  is  a 
comfortable  feeling  that  Uncle  Sam  has  plenty  of  land  to  furnish  a 
good  farm  to  all  who  would  like  to  till  the  soil,  but  where  this  land  is, 
and  how  much  there  is,  the  generality  of  people  cannot  tell.  The  ac- 
tual area  of  the  public  domain  once  amounted  to  nearly  two  thousand 
millions  of  acres — verily  a goodly  property,  hardly  to  be  realized  by 
the  simple  statement  of  the  number  of  acres.  This  land  was  acquired 
by  cession  from  the  original  states,  by  the  Mexican  treaty,  by  what 
is  known  as  the  Gadsden  purchase,  and  by  purchases  from  Texas, 
Florida,  and  Alaska.  Of  this  vast  public  estate,  nearly  six  hundred 
million  acres  have  been  sold,  given  to  states  for  internal  improvement, 
given  to  railroads,  given  to  colleges  and  schools,  disposed  of  under 
the  homestead  and  bounty  laws,  and  in  various  other  ways  have  passed 
from  the  holding  of  the  government.  Forty-six  million  acres  have 


THE  PUBLIC  LANDS. 


221 


been  awarded  lo  railroads  by  Congress,  to  aid  in  the  construction  of 
the  roads,  and  other  corporations  have  had  enormous  blocks  and 
stretches  of  the  public  domain  awarded  them  by  special  acts. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  area  of  public  lands  now  remaining  is 
about  1,800,000,000  acres.  Taking  out  of  this  estimate  the  lands 
held  for  Indian  and  military  reservations,  the  unexplored  lands  in 
Alaska,  and  all  lands  unsurveyed,  etc.,  there  will  yet  remain,  in 
round  numbers,  some  650,000,000  acres  to  be  disposed  of  by  the 
government,  nearly  all  of  which  can  be  acquired  by  citizens  of  the 
United  States  by  actual  settlement  and  cultivation.  The  lands  are 
located  in  the  states  of  Ohio,  California,  Arkansas,  Alabama,  Colo- 
rado, Florida,  Louisiana,  Kansas,  Illinois,  Iowa,  Minnesota,  Indiana, 
Michigan,  Oregon,  Wisconsin,  Nevada,  Missouri,  Nebraska,  and 
Mississippi,  and  in  all  the  tei'ritories.  Any  citizen  of  the  United 
States  is  entitled  under  the  homestead  laws  to  enter  one  hundred  and 
sixty  acres  of  these  lands  wherever  unappropriated.  In  six  months 
from  the  date  of  entry  he  must  pay  $16  in. fees  and  commissions  to 
the  land  office,  and  must  live  on  the  land  and  cultivate  it  for  five 


SOUTH  HALL,  MUSEUM  OF  MODELS,  PATENT  OFFICE. 


222 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


continuous  years.  Then,  upon  proof  of  residence  and  cultivation,  a 
patent  is  issued,  and  he  becomes  the  owner  of  the  land.  The  soldiers 
and  sailors  of  the  Civil  War  who  enter  homestead  lands  have  the 
period  of  their  service  in  the  army  and  navy  deducted  from  the  five 
years’  residence,  provided  they  live  on  and  cultivate  the  land  for  one 
year.  Under  the  preemption  laws  it  is  necessary  to  live  for  one 
year  on  the  land  preempted,  at  the  expiration  of  which  time  the  land 
can  be  purchased  for  $1.25  per  acre,  if  outside  of  railroad  limits,  and 
for  $2.50  per  acre  if  within  railroad  limits.  There  are  other  ways  of 
acquiring  lands  under  the  timber  culture  laws  and  the  desert  land  act. 
Up  to  the  present  time  about  seventy  million  acres  have  been  secured 
by  homestead  settlers. 

Connected  with  the  land  office  are  sixteen  surveyors -general, 
assigned  to  different  states  and  territories,  who  have  charge  of  the 
surveying  of  public  lands.  They  have  their  offices  in  the  districts  to 
which  they  are  assigned,  and  employ  many  clerks.  About  twenty 
million  acres  of  land  are  disposed  of  by  the  government  every  }'ear 
under  the  various  land  acts,  and  from  eight  to  twelve  million  dollars 
are  received  from  sales,  fees,  and  commissions. 

The  Bureau  of  Indian  Affairs  is  charged  with  the  care  of 
those  troublesoine  wards  of  the  Nation,  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  far 
West.  It  has  apartments  in  the  Patent  Office  Building,  and  employs 
about  seventy  clerks  and  others  in  its  routine  work.  All  the  Indian 
agents,  inspectors,  etc.,  are  under  the  supervision  of  the  bureau,  and 
it  has  many  important  duties.  Clothing,  food,  agricultural  imple- 
ments, and  many  other  things  are  supplied  to  the  tribes,  whose  res- 
ervations extend  from  Lake  Superior  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Six 
million  dollars  are  annually  paid  to  the  Indians.  There  are  fifty- 
nine  agencies,  which  have  charge  of  246,000  Indians,  and  outside  of 
the  agencies  there  are  15,000  Indians.  The  bureau  pays  considerable 
attention  to  the  education  of  Indian  children,  and  a number  of  good 
schools  for  them  have  been  established.  In  many  of  the  schools 
various  industries  are  taught,  and  it  is  believed  that  in  time  the  ex- 
periment will  be  tried  on  a large  scale  of  educating  the  Indian  youth 
to  become  intelligent,  civilized  laborers.  If  the  boys  and  girls  are 
educated  to  manual  occupations,  it  is  thought  they  will  cease  to  liave 
a desire  for  a savage  life,  and  will  become  self-supporting  and  inde- 
pendent of  government  aid. 


THE  BUREAU  OF  EDUCATION. 


223 


SECTION  OF  FRIEZE  ORNAMENTATION  ON  THE  PENSION  BUILDING. 

The  Bureau  of  Education  has  offices  in  a large  brick  building 
on  G Street,  opposite  the  Patent  Office.  It  has  a force  of  forty 
persons,  many  of  whom  are  college  graduates  and  practical  educa- 
tors, and  Congress  appropriates  yearly  a little  more  than  $50,000  for 
its  support.  It  was  established  in  1867,  and  its  primary  object  is  to  col- 
lect information  concerning  schools  and  systems  of  education,  not  only 
in  this  country  but  throughout  the  world,  and  this  information  is  com- 
piled and  diffused  by  means  of  reports  and  other  publications,  which 
are  extensively  circulated.  A special  feature  is  made  of  exhibits  of 
foreign  school  systems,  which  are  exceedingly  instructive  and  inter- 
esting. The  bureau  is  held  in  high  estimation  in  Europe,  and  sev- 
eral countries  have  modeled  their  educational  bureaus  upon  the 
American  system.  The  statistics  collected  in  reference  to  education 
in  foreign  countries  have  a wide  range,  and  are  of  great  value.  An 
extensive  correspondence  is  carried  on,  and  every  year  thousands  of 
letters  are  written  in  reply  to  inquiries  from  all  over  the  country  about 
the  free  schools  of  the  South,  the  education  of  colored  children,  the 
compulsory  school  laws  of  the  states,  the  methods  of  industrial  schools 
in  England  and  France,  the  organization  and  management  of  techni- 
cal institutes,  the  normal  school  and  kindergarten  systems,  the  co- 
education of  the  sexes,  the  best  training  for  teachers,  and  a host  of 
other  matters.  The  bureau  is  doing  a beneficial  work,  the  extent  and 
value  of  which  are  hardly  realized  by  the  country. 

The  Geological  Survey  is  a part  of  the  Department  of  the 
Interior,  and  has  offices  in  the  National  Museum.  It  has  a director. 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


224 

a chief  clerk,  an  executive  officer,  surveyors,  and  other  employes. 
It  is  charged  with  the  examination  and  classification  of  the  mineral 
lands  belonging  to  the  United  States,  and  performs  an  important 
work.  Within  a few  years  the  Survey  has  made  extensive  examin- 
ations of  the  regions  in  the  Western  States  and  Territories  which 
produce  the  precious  metals,  and  also  of  those  regions  which  contain 
valuable  fields  of  anthracite  and  bituminous  coal  and  iron  ore,  and 
the  reports  and  maps  issued  have  been  of  great  service  not  only  to 
the  government,  but  to  all  persons  interested  in  mineral  lands.  Be- 
fore long  the  entire  Rocky  Mountain  region  will  be  carefully  exam- 
ined and  accurately  reported  upon,  and  the  vast  mineral  wealth  of 
this  as  yet  but  partially  explored  country  thoroughly  revealed.  The 
Survey  has  in  course  of  preparation  a geological  map  of  the  United 
States  which  is  intended  to  be  very  complete.  The  country  will  be 
divided  into  seven  districts,  and  the  geological  features  of  each  dis- 
trict will  be  fully  portrayed.  The  map  will  be  published  in  atlas 
sheets,  each  being  composed  of  one  degree  of  longitude  by  one  of 
latitude  in  area,  bounded  by  parallels  and  meridians. 

The  office  of  the  Commissioner  of  Railroads  is  attached  to  the 
Department  of  the  Interior.  It  occupies  a building  on  G Street,  op- 
posite the  Patent  Office.  All  the'  railroad  companies  to  which  the 
government  has  granted  any  loan  or  credit  are  required  to  report  to 
this  office  their  earnings  and  expenses,  and  general  financial  condi- 
tion, and  at  certain  times  officials  are  detailed  to  e.xamine  the  prop- 
erty and  accounts  of  the  subsidized  roads.  These  roads  are  the 
Central  Pacific,  the  Western  Pacific,  the  Union  Pacific,  the  Kansas 
Pacific,  the  Central  Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific,  and  the  Sioux  City 
and  Pacific.  The  amount  of  their  indebtedness  to  the  government, 
principal  and  interest,  is  over  one  hundred  million  dollars.  The 
Commissioner  of  Railroads  is  required  to  enforce  the  laws  relating 
to  the  railroads,  and  to  give  assistance  in  various  ways  to  the  govern- 
ment directors  of  the  roads. 


CHAPTER  XV 


DEPARTMENT  OF  JUSTICE  — UNITED  STATES  COURTS  — DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRI- 
CULTURE — THE  MUSEUM  AND  PLANT-HOUSES  — THE  GROWING  AND  DISTRI- 
BUTION OF  SEEDS  — EXPERIMENTS  IN  AGRICULTURE  — THE  SMITHSONIAN 
INSTITUTION  AND  ITS  WORK— NATIONAL  MUSEUM— THE  GREAT  COLLECTIONS 
OF  NATURAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL  PRODUCTS  — GOVERNMENT  PRINTING-OFFICE. 

The  Department  of  Justice,  under  the  direction  of  the  At- 
torney-General, has  charge  of  all  prosecutions  by  the  gov- 
ernment, and  supervises  the  United  States  courts  in  the  judi- 
cial districts  of  the  country.  The  office  of  Attorney-General 
is  as  old  as  the  present  form  of  government,  having  been  created  in 
1789  ; but  the  Department  of  Justice  was  not  created  until  1870,  when 
Congress  thought  best  to  combine  all  the  law-officers,  and  all  the  law 
business  of  the  government  in  an  executive  department,  with  the  At- 
torney-General as  its  head.  This  official  is  a member  of  the  Cabinet, 
and  the  law-adviser  of  the  President  and  the  heads  of  the  executive 
departments.  He  has  a compensation  of  $8,000  per  year. 

The  business  of  the  Department  of  Justice  is  conducted,  under 
the  supervision  of  the  Attorney-General,  by  a Solicitor-General,  who 
has  a salary  of  $7,000,  three  assistant  Attorneys-General  with  sal- 
aries of  $5,000  each,  a Solicitor  of  Internal  Revenue  with  $4,500, 
and  an  assistant  Attorney-General  of  the  Post-Office  Department 
with  $4,000.  There  are  also  an  examiner  of  claims  with  $3,500, 
two  assistant  attorneys  with  $3,000  each,  three  assistant  attorneys 
with  $2,500  each,  one  assistant  attorney  with  $2,000,  a law  clerk 
and  examiner  of  titles  with  $2,700,  a chief  clerk  with  $2,200,  two 
law  clerks  with  $2,000  each,  a stenographic  clerk  with  $1,800,  and 
forty  other  clerks  and  employes.  The  salaries  of  the  department 
annually  amount  to  $109,590. 


15 


226 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


The  office  of  the  Solicitor  of  the  Treasury  is  also  under  the  su- 
pervision of  the  Attorney-General.  The  Solicitor  has  charge  of  the 
legal  business  of  the  Treasury  Department.  He  has  a salary  of 
$4,500,  and  there  is  an  assistant  solicitor  with  a salary  of  $3,000. 
In  the  Solicitor’s  office  there  are  fifteen  clerks  and  employes,  and 
the  salary  list  amounts  to  $28,000. 

The  five-story  building  originally  erected  by  the  defunct  Freed- 
men’s  Savings  and  Trust  Company,  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  oppo- 
site the  northern  front  of  the  Treasury  Building,  is  occupied  by  the 
Department  of  Justice.  In  the  office  of  the  Attorney-General  is  a 
fine  collection  of  portraits  of  the  Attorneys-General  of  the  United 
States  from  1789  to  the  present  time.  The  first  story  is  used  by  the 
United  States  Court  of  Clgims,  which  hears  and  determines  claims 
disputed  by  the  executive  departments.  The  court  consists  of  five 
judges,  who  receive  salaries  of  $4,500. 

The  District  Court  House  is  situated  on  Judiciary  Square.  It  is 
a large  freestone  structure,  painted  white,  and  was  erected  in  1820, 
after  designs  by  George  Hadfield.  East  and  west  wings  were  added 
in  1826  and  1849.  Until  1871  it  was  used  by  the  municipal  govern- 
ment as  the  city  hall.  All  the  District  courts  are  held  here,  with 
the  exception  of  the  police  court,  which  is  held  in  a building  on  the 
corner  of  Sixth  and  D streets  northwest,  once  a Unitarian  church. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  the  District  is  divided  into  a criminal  court, 
a District  court,  a common  law  court,  and  an  equity  court.  There 
are  a Chief  Justice  and  five  associate  justices,  who  receive  an  aggre- 
gate compensation  of  $24,500.  Connected  with  the  District  judiciary 
are  the  offices  of  the  United  States  District  Attorney,  the  United 
States  Marshal,  the  Register  of  Wills,  and  the  Recorder  of  Deeds. 

In  the  District  Court  House  many  notable  trials  have  taken  place 
during  the  more  than  half  century  of  its  existence.  Here  Guiteau 
was  tried,  and  the  notorious  “star  route  cases”  were  heard.  The 
District  jail  formerly  stood  in  the  rear  of  the  court  house,  but  it  is 
now  located  on  the  banks  of  the  Anacostia  River,  at  the  eastern  ter- 
mination of  Pennsylvania  Avenue.  It  is  a large  stone  building,  erec- 
ted in  1875,  at  a cost  of  $400,000. 

It  has  been  said  that  “ the  government  of  the  United  States  may 
take  its  stand  among  the  most  enterprising  and  prosperous  of  those 
nations  in  which  departments  are  provided  and  supported  for  every 
purpose  which  can  possibly  increase  the  national  wealth  and  intelli- 


DEPARTMENT  OF  ACJRICULTURE 


227 


TIIK  DEPARTMENT  OF  JUSTICE  BUILDING. 


gence,  and  stimulate  the  national  enterprise.”  One  of  these  beneficial, 
and  it  may  be  called  stimulating,  departments  is  the  Department  of 
Agriculture,  which  is  charged  with  collecting  and  diffusing  the  most 
reliable  information  upon  agriculture  and  the  many  important  indus- 
tries which  cluster  around  it,  and  upon  the  successful  prosecution  of 
which  the  country’s  prosperity  depends.  It  is  not  a costly  department, 
as  compared  with  other  branches  of  the  public  service,  its  expendi- 
ture rarely  exceeding  $400,000  a year,  but  its  work  is  of  incalcu- 
lable value.  It  has  diffused  definite  information  concernin<x  the  best 
methods  to  be  employed  in  special  branches  of  agriculture  ; it  has  told 
the  farmers  how  to  protect  themselves  from  pestiferous  insects,  and 
how  to  guard  against  the  diseases  of  farm  animals  ; it  has  supplied  the 
best  seeds  for  vegetables  and  flowers,  for  cotton,  corn,  wheat,  tobacco, 


228 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


medicinal  herbs,  hemp,  flax,  and  jute  ; it  has  made  many  valuable 
discoveries,  and  diffused  them  so  that  they  may  benefit  the  greatest 
number  ; and  in  countless  ways  has  been  of  vast  service  in  the  devel- 
opment and  improvement  of  the  agricultural  interests  of  the  country. 

The  department  is  under  the  direction  of  an  official  called  the 
Commissioner  of  Agriculture.  He  is  appointed  by  the  President,  and 
receives  a salary  of  $4,500  per  }^ear.  A force  of  talented  specialists 
is  constantly  engaged  in  making  careful  and  thorough  investigations 
of  agricultural  matters,  and  in  many  of  the  divisions  of  the  department 
invaluable  work  is  done.  Thus,  in  the  microscopical  division  close 
examinations  are  made  of  food  products,  and  new  methods  discovered 
for  the  detection  of  artificial  impurities  in  them.  Examinations  are 
also  made  to  discover  the  cause  of  diseases  of  animals  and  plants,  with 
a view  of  providing  remedies.  Plants  native  to  the  United  States  are 
frequently  discovered  to  have  valuable  medicinal  qualities,  and  within 
a short  time  several  of  this  sort  have  been  found  on  the  Pacific  coast 
which  have  great  value  for  medical  purposes.  In  the  division  of 
entomology  special  investigations  are  made  of  insects  which  injuri- 
ously affect  wheat,  corn,  rice,  sugar-cane,  fruit-trees,  and  many  veg- 
etables, and  important  information  gained  as  to  their  habits,  mode  of 
development,  and  the  means  of  destroying  them.  Men  are  sent  to  the 
districts  ravaged  by  insects,  and  devote  much  time  to  their  study,  and 
the  results  of  their  studies  are  incorporated  in  special  publications, 
which  are  distributed  throughout  the  farming  sections  of  the  country. 
Careful  examinations  have  been  made  of  insects  affecting  the  cotton 
plant,  and  they  have  resulted  in  discoveries  by  which  the  cost  of  pro- 
tecting the  crop  is  greatly  lessened,  and  a good  part  of  the  loss  from 
the  pests  is  prevented. 

The  department  has  undertaken  an  extended  series  of  experiments 
and  investigations  in  regard  to  diseases  of  farm  animals,  greater  than 
it  has  ever  attempted  before,  which  will  be  conducted  witli  the  view  of 
thoroughly  ascertaining  the  origin,  cause,  and  nature  of  the  Texas 
cattle-fever,  pleuro-pneumonia  in  cattle,  and  hog  and  chicken  cholera, 
diseases  which  cause  the  loss  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  to 
farmers ; and  it  is  confidently  expected  that  means  will  be  discovered 
by  which  these  destructive  diseases  can  be  prevented  and  cured.  An 
experimental  farm  has  been  established  in  one  of  the  outlying  sections 
of  Washington,  and  stocked  with  animals  to  be  \ised  for  the  experi- 
ments, and  all  the  necessary  apparatus  for  inoculation,  autopsies,  and 


l)i:partment  of  agriculture 


229 

chemical  analyses  has  been  provided.  Experts  will  here  diligently 
labor  to  obtain  the  information  so  greatly  needed,  and  the  farm  will 
doubtless  become  a permanent  part  of  the  department,  to  be  used  for 
many  kindred  experiments  from  time  to  time. 

Located  throughout  the  agricultural  districts  of  the  United  States 
are  hundreds  of  reliable  and  judicious  correspondents,  who  make 
simultaneous  report  to  the  department  on  the  first  of  each  month,  of  the 
condition  of  the  crops,  the  results  of  local  agricultural  experiments, 
and  other  valuable  facts.  These  reports  are  constantly  verified  by 
special  agents,  and  the  greatest  pains  taken  to  secure  accuracy.  When 
the  information  is  all  at  hand  the  statistician  of  the  department  com- 
piles it,  and  makes  out  the  full  monthly  crop  report,  which  is  an- 
nounced through  the  newspapers  and  issued  in  pamphlet  form.  These 
reports  have  great  practical  value,  especially  to  those  pecuniarily  in- 
terested in  bread-stuffs,  cotton,  and  other  staples. 

Thousands  of  letters  are  received  requesting  information  in  regard 
to  the  agricultural  productions  of  the  western  states  and  the  territories  ; 
and  information  in  regard  to  strange  looking  birds  and  insects,  samples 


TMt;  Dp;i»ART.MENT  UK  AGRICIU.TURE  BUILDING. 


23G 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


of  which  are  sent  — w'hether  or  not  they  are  destructive  to  crops. 
Peculiar  kinds  of  grass  and  plants  that  have  poisoned  cattle  are  for- 
warded, with  inquiries  about  them  ; and  a thousand  and  one  different 
requests  for  practical  knowledge  continually  pour  in.  Each  letter  is 
promptly  answered,  and  the  fullest  information  it  has  been  possible  to 
obtain  is  given.  The  annual  report  of  the  department  has  a circula- 
tion of  300,000  copies,  mostly  of  course  among  the  western  farmers, 
who  prize  it  highly.  It  is  a bulky  volume,  with  a vast  amount  of  in- 
formation of  importance  to  the  agricultural  interests,  and  is  copiously 
illustrated  with  correct  drawings  of  insects,  and  various  other  things 
appertaining  to  agriculture  and  horticulture,  the  illustrations  costing 
in  some  years  as  much  as  $30,000. 

The  department  building  is  situated  on  the  Mall,  facing  Thirteenth 
Street,  and  is  of  fine  pressed  brick  with  brown-stone  trimmings.  It  is 
of  the  renaissance  order  of  architecture,  and  was  erected  in  1868,  after 
designs  by  Adolph  Cluss,  at  a cost  of  $140,000.  It  has  three  stories 
and  a mansard  roof,  and  is  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  long,  and 
sixty-one  feet  wide.  That  portion  of  the  Mall  on  which  the  building 
is  situated  is  beautifully  laid  out  in  spacious  gardens,  in  which  are 
grown  over  two  thousand  varieties  of  plants  and  flowers,  arranged  in 
strict  botanical  order.  A portion  of  the  ground  is  laid  out  as  an  ar- 
boretum, and  contains  a choice  collection  of  trees  and  hardy  shrubs. 
The  front  gardens  are  adorned  with  a low  terrace  wall,  and  numerous 
rustic  vases  and  statues.  About  ten  acres  of  the  rear  gardens  are 
devoted  to  the  raising  of  seeds,  and  the  testing  of  small  fruits.  From 
the  front  of  the  building  a charming  view  of  the  business  section  of 
Washington  can  be  obtained. 

Great  plant-houses  of  glass  and  iron  are  located  on  the  west  of  the 
building.  They  consist  of  a centre  pavilion  with  long  wings,  and  are 
nearly  four  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  very  handsomely  designed. 
They  contain  all  the  principal  varieties  of  tropical  fruit  plants,  and  an 
extensive  collection  of  foreign  grapes,  and  also  many  medical  plants, 
and  those  furnishing  dyes,  gums,  and  textile  fibres. 

Adjacent  to  the  department  building  on  the  east  is  the  seed-house, 
used  for  the  storing  and  distributing  of  seeds.  Here  nearly  one  hun- 
dred persons  are  employed,  during  the  winter  and  spring,  in  packing 
garden,  field,  and  flower  seeds  of  the  most  approved  varieties,  for  dis- 
tribution throughout  the  country.  The  department  raises  great  quan- 
tities of  seeds,  and  also  purchases  of  reliable  firms  in  Europe  and 


I I IE  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE. 


231 


THE  NATIONAL  MUSEUM. 

America  many  seeds  which  are  strictly  guaranteed  to  be  of  prime 
quality.  Seeds  are  sent  to  districts  where  the  lands  have  been  over- 
flowed, and  the  farmers  have  lost  all  they  put  into  the  ground,  thus 
enabling  them  to  start  again  in  the  work  of  cultivation.  Choice  vari- 
eties of  foreign  seeds  are  given  out  in  sections  where  it  is  believed  the 
foreign  plants  can  be  successfully  cultivated.  Yearly  over  two  mil- 
lion packages  of  seeds,  and  from  60,000  to  70,000  plants  are  dis- 
tributed. The  plants  include  many  rare  and  exceeding!}"  valuable 
species. 

The  interior  of  the  department  building  is  excellently  arranged 
for  the  purposes  of  the  business,  and  all  the  divisions  are  accommo- 
dated in  large,  well-furnished  apartments.  A large  apartment  on  the 
first  floor  is  used  for  the  library,  a collection  of  10,000  volumes  per- 
taining to  agriculture,  which  is  considered  the  most  complete  of  the 
kind  in  the  United  States.  It  has  a number  of  very  costly  and  mag- 
nificent botanical  works  of  foreign  publication. 

On  the  second  floor,  occupying  all  the  space  in  the  centre  of 
the  building,  is  a grand  Museum  of  Agriculture,  arranged  to  thor- 
oughly illustrate  the  agricultural  productions  of  the  country,  and  the 
substances  manufactured  from  them.  The  collections  are  very  ex- 


232 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


tensive,  and  include  every  vegetable  grown  from  Maine  to  California, 
together  with  many  minerals  and  woods.  There  is  also  a fine 
exhibit  of  the  game  birds  and  poultry  of  the  United  States.  Illus- 
trations are  given  of  the  effect  produced  upon  vegetation  by  climate, 
birds,  insects,  and  animals.  The  vegetables  and  fruits  are  skillfully 
modeled  and  colored  to  imitate  nature,  and  are  so  perfect  in  most 
cases  that  they  may  be  easily  taken  for  the  genuine. 

In  the  third  story  is  a large  botanical  museum,  containing  many 
thousand  species  of  plants,  properly  arranged.  Here  all  the  botan- 
ical collections  obtained  by  the  government  exploring  expeditions  are 
deposited. 

In  1828  an  English  gentleman  named  James  Smithson  died  at 
Genoa,  leaving  an  estate  valued  at  half  a million  dollars.  By  his  will 
the  estate  passed  to  a relative  for  life,  and  afterward  descended  “To 
the  United  States  of  America  to  found  at  Washington,  under  the  name 
of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  an  establishment  for  the  increase  and 
diffusion  of  knowledge  among  men.”  In  1838  this  bequest,  amounting 
to  the  sum  of  $515,169,  was  transferred  to  the  United  States  by  the 
Chancery  Court  of  England.  The  agent  of  the  government  in  obtain- 
ing the  money  wrote  in  his  report  of  Smithson  that  “ he  was  a natural 
son  of  Hugh,  first  Duke  of  Northumberland,  his  mother  being  of  an 
ancient  family  in  Wiltshire  of  the  name  of  Hungerford.  He  was  born 
in  London,  and  was  educated  at  Oxford,  where  he  took  an  honorary 
degree  in  1786.  He  took  the  name  of  James  Lewis  Macie  until  a few 
years  after  he  left  the  university,  when  he  changed  it  to  Smithson. 
He  does  not  appear  to  have  had  any  fixed  home,  living  in  lodgings 
when  in  London,  and  occasionally,  a year  or  two  at  a time,  in  the 
cities  on  the  continent  — Paris,  Berlin,  Florence,  and  Genoa,  at  which 
last  place  he  died.  The  ample  provision  made  for  him  by  the  Duke 
of  Northumberland,  with  retired  and  simple  habits,  enabled  him  to 
accumulate  the  fortune  which  passed  to  the  United  States.  He  inter- 
ested himself  little  in  questions  of  government,  being  devoted  to 
science  and  chieffy  to  chemistry.” 

Gentlemen  of  learning  and  distinction  in  the  United  States  were 
invited  by  tbe  government  to  submit  their  views  as  to  the  best  method 
of  applying  the  Smithson  bequest,  and  many  views  were  submitted. 
It  was  suggested  that  a national  university  should  be  established,  to 
occupy  the  place  between  a college  and  a professional  school,  with 


THE  SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION. 


233 


public  lectures  on  classical  and  oriental  languages,  and  the  principal 
sciences.  It  was  urged  that  the  money  should  be  devoted  to  teaching 
the  principles  of  the  useful  arts,  to  the  founding  of  a great  botanical 
garden,  to  the  creating  of  a national  free  library  of  reference  ; and,  in 
fact,  innumerable  views  were  presented,  all  set  forth  with  strong  argu- 
ments. Finally  it  was  decided  to  make  the  “ Smithsonian  Institution  ” 
a general  scientific  establishment,  which  should  be  devoted  to  investi- 
gations and  researches  in  all  branches  of  knowledge  ; which  should 
employ  eminent  men  to  study  special  subjects,  and  publish  the  results 
to  the  world. 

In  1846  the  institution  was  organized  by  act  of  Congress,  the 
management  of  its  affairs  being  placed  in  the  hands  of  a Board  of 
Regents,  composed  of  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
United  States,  members  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives, 
and  sundry  private  citizens.  The  President  of  the  United  States  and 
his  Cabinet  were  constituted  members  ex-officio  of  the  institution.  A 
secretary,  to  have  the  active  management,  was  to  be  chosen  by  the 
regents. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  building  was  laid  by  President  Polk, 
wfith  Masonic  rites,  on  the  ist  of  May,  1847,  and  the  building  was 


THE  GOVERNMENT  PRINTING-OFFICE. 


234 


PICTURESC^UE  WASHINGTON. 


completed  in  1856,  at  a cost  of  $450,000,  the  accumulated  interest 
on  the  bequest  being  sufficient  to  pay  for  its  erection.  Prof.  Joseph 
Henry,  of  Princeton  College,  was  chosen  to  be  secretary,  and  for 
many  years  directed  the  institution  most  successfully,  retaining  the 
position  until  his  death.  In  1880  Congress  appropriated  $15,000  for 
the  erection  of  a bronze  statue  of  Professor  Henry,  and  on  April  19, 
1883,  this  statue,  the  work  of  William  W.  Story,  was  publicly  un- 
veiled with  appropriate  ceremony.  It  stands  northwest  of  the  Smith- 
sonian Building,  in  a prominent  position  on  the  grounds. 

The  building  is  located  on  that  part  of  the  Mall,  between  Seventh 
and  Twelfth  streets,  known  as  “ the  Smithsonian  Grounds,”  an  area 
of  fifty-two  acres,  finely  laid  out  as  a public  park,  with  broad  drives 
and  footways,  handsome  lawns,  and  groves  of  luxuriant  trees.  An- 
drew J.  Downing,  the  distinguished  landscape  gardener  and  horticul- 
turist, designed  and  partially  laid  out  the  grounds,  but  he  died  in 
1852,  before  the  work  was  completed.  A monumental  vase  of  great 
beauty,  which  stands  in  the  easterly  portion  of  the  grounds,  was 
erected  to  his  memory  by  the  American  Pomological  Societ}*.  The 
building  is  of  red  sandstone  from  quarries  near  Washington,  on  the 
upper  Potomac,  and  the  style  of  architecture  is  that  variously  de- 
scribed as  the  Norman,  the  Lombard,  and  the  Byzantine,  which  pre- 
vailed throughout  southern  Europe  toward  the  close  of  the  twelfth 
century.  There  are  nine  towers  of  different  forms  and  heights. 
The  front  extends  four  hundred  and  twenty-six  feet,  the  centre  build- 
ing being  fifty  by  two  hundred  feet,  and  there  are  two  wings,  the 
east  one  having  a vestibule  and  porch  attached,  and  the  west  one  a 
semicircular  projection.  It  was  designed  by  James  Renwick,Jr., 
and  was  the  first  unecclesiastical  edifice  of  this  architectural  order 
ever  erected  in  the  country.  The  interior  is  substantially  constructed. 
The  officials  and  employes  of  the  institution  have  apartments  in  the 
wings,  and  the  centre  structure  is  mainly  used  for  the  exhibition  of 
objects  of  natural  history. 

The  institution  expends  about  $70,000  a year  in  various  scientific 
investigations  conducted  by  its  force  of  scientists,  and  publishes  a 
series  of  volumes,  entitled  the  Smithsonian  Contributions  to  KnozvI- 
cdge,  which  are  sent  to  the  principal  scientific  societies  of  the  world 
in  exchange  for  their  publications.  It  carries  on  an  extensive  scien- 
tific correspondence,  and  all  letters  that  are  received  making  incpiiries 
relative  to  certain  branches  of  knowledge  are  carefully  answered. 


THE  NATIONAL  MUSEUM. 


235 


A LANDMARK  ON  B STREKT  NORTHWEST. 


It  publishes  accounts  of  the  latest  discoveries  in  science,  and  in  many 
ways  intelligently  labors  for  the  “increase  and  diffusion  of  knowl- 
edge among  men.” 

In  1879  “ annex  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution  ” was  erected  by 
the  government,  and  denominated  “The  National  Museum.”  Orig- 
inally intended  to  contain  the  splendid  exhibits  made  by  foreign  gov- 
ernments at  the  Centennial  Exhibition,  which  were  presented  to  the 
United  States,  its  scope  has  been  enlarged,  so  that  now  it  is  the  gen- 
eral depository  of  all  the  geological  and  industrial  collections  of  the 
government,  and  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  the  greatest  and  most 
attractive  museums  in  the  world.  In  the  course  of  a few  years  it 
will  contain  vast  collections  of  the  products  of  industry,  ancient  and 
modern,  the  useful,  the  ornamental,  and  the  marvelous  ; and,  it  may 
be  said,  representations  of  nearly  everything  of  importance  that  prod- 
igal nature  furnishes  for  man’s  use  and  benefit. 

The  building  stands  directly  east  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution, 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTOX. 


and  covers  nearly  two  and  one-half  acres.  It  is  a line  example  of  the 
modern  Romanesque  order  of  architecture,  and  has  a certain  quaint 
beauty,  with  its  numerous  peaked  towers,  h’gh  central  dome,  and 
pavilions.  It  is  constructed  of  bricks  laid  in  black  mortar,  with  blue 
and  buflf  bricks  set  in  the  cornices,  which  produce  a very  pleasing 
etl'ect.  There  are  seventeen  spacious  exhibition  halls  within  the  build- 
ing, and  also  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  rooms  for  other  purposes. 
The  floors  are  constructed  of  tiles  laid  in  artistic  forms,  the  cases  are 
all  of  mahogany,  and  the  decorations  are  elegant.  In  the  offices  and 
work-shops  in  various  sections  may  be  found  men  of  extensive  reputa- 
tion in  the  world  of  science,  with  numerous  assistants,  prosecuting 
researches  and  preparing  material  to  increase  the  treasures  of  the 
museum.  The  secretary  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution  is  the  director, 
and  there  are  an  assistant  director,  eleven  curators,  and  a large  force 
of  employes.  Congress  annually  makes  a:i  appropriation  for  the 
museum. 

Already  the  collections  are  very  interesting  and  instructive  to  all 
who  wander  through  the  lofty  and  beautiful  exhibition  halls.  The 
staple  products  of  the  world  are  shown  in  their  varying  qualities,  and 
the  articles  manufactured  from  them  are  thoroughly  represented. 
!Much  that  is  curious  in  American  and  foreign  growth  and  manufirct- 
ure  — much  that  is  specially  attractive  — can  be  found  in  an  hour’s 
inspection,  and  days  can  be  spent  in  the  profitable  study  of  the 
thousands  of  articles  displayed.  The  ethnological  exhibit  is  par- 
ticularly comprehensive  and  valuable.  The  fame  of  these  collections 
is  rapidly  extending  over  the  country,  and  students  of  natural  his- 
tory, and  of  special  industrial  subjects,  are  beginning  to  learn  that 
the  government  has  provided  in  the  most  liberal  manner  in  this 
museum  a remarkable  school  wherein  object-lessons  of  the  utmost 
practical  value  can  be  obtained  gratuitously. 

The  Government  Printing-Oi'kice  occupies  a four-story  brick 
building,  covering  the  square  at  the  corner  of  North  Capitol  and  II 
streets.  It  is  interesting  to  visitors  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  largest 
printing  and  bintling  establishment  in  the  world,  having  a working 
force  of  from  2,500  to  3,000  persons,  and  an  immense  quantilv  of  the 
best  material  known  to  the  “ art  preservative  of  arts.”  Tliis  ofiice 
executes  all  the  printing  required  by  Congress  and  the  execulive  and 
judicial  departments  of  tlie  government  — trul}’  an  enormous  amount. 


THE  GOVERNMENT  PRINTING-OFFICE. 


237 


which  will  be  realized  by  the  statement  that  every  year  very  nearly 
^3,000,000  are  expended  for  it.  An  official  with  the  title  of  Public 
Printer  is  in  charge,  and  he  receives  a salary  of  $4,500. 

Visitors  to  this  mammoth  establishment  enter  at  the  main  door  on 
North  Capitol  Street,  and  are  provided  with  guides  to  show  them  over 
the  building.  It  is  an  interesting  though  a rather  fatiguing  journey 
through  the  great  halls  and  apartments  occupied  by  busy  men  and 
women,  noisy  with  the  clatter  of  presses  and  other  machines,  and 
crowded  with  thousands  of  printed  volumes  and  documents.  The 
finest  and  costliest  typographical  work  done  in  the  country  may  be 
seen,  and  scores  of  unique  machines,  found  only  in  the  most  extensive 
printing  offices.  The  immense  press-room,  with  a hundred  large 
presses  in  constant  motion ; the  type-setting  room,  three  hundred  feet 
long,  filled  with  compositors  ; the  great  folding  and  binding  rooms 
— all  excite  wonder  and  admiration,  particularly  as  the  vast  amount 
of  work  appears  to  be  progressing  smoothly  and  easily,  and  appar- 
ently without  a sign  of  confusion.  Every  department  has  a compe- 
tent foreman  and  manager,  and  there  is  a fixed  standard  of  work  to 
which  all  the  employes  must  conform.  The  very  best  service  is  re- 
quired, and  a careful  record  of  deficiencies  is  kept. 

Practically  the  office  is  unlimited  in  its  productive  capacity.  It 
can  also  do  very  rapid  work,  if  so  required  by  Congress  or  any  of 
the  departments.  For  instance,  the  copy  of  a bill  of  Congress,  or  a 
report,  which  will  make  fifty  or  sixty  large  printed  pages,  may  be 
received  at  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning,  with  orders  for  immediate 
delivery.  It  will  be  put  in  type,  the  proof  read  twice  and  corrected, 
and  in  two  or  three  hours  the  bill  or  report,  printed,  and  bound,  will 
be  ready  to  be  delivered.  * 

The  finest  work  ever  produced  by  this  office  was  The  Medical 
and  Surgical  History  of  the  War  of  the  Rebellion.  It  was  printed  on 
very  costly  paper,  and  contained  a great  number  of  magnificent  illus- 
trations, executed  at  a cost  of  many  thousands  of  dollars.  An  edition 
of  2,000  copies  was  first  issued,  and  afterward  Congress  ordered  an- 
other edition  of  10,000  copies.  The  work  was  demanded  by  all  the 
principal  libraries  of  the  world. 

In  the  bindery  can  be  seen  every  process  known  to  the  trade,  in- 
cluding marbling,  embossing,  stamping,  and  other  high  branches. 
Some  of  the  volumes  issued  are  bound  in  sumptuous  style.  In  the 
foundry,  electrotyping  and  stereotyping  are  done. 


FARRAGUT  Sqi'ARE  SHOWING  THE  RUSSIAN  LEGATION  BUILDING. 


CHAPTER  XVI 


SKETCHES  OF  CITV  LIFE-THE  FASIIION’ABLE  Qll AKTER--PALATI AL  MANSIONS 
— THE  ROUND  OF  SOCIAL  FESTIVITY  — OFFICIAL  AND  SOCIETY  ETIQUETTE  — 
THE  GOVERNMENT  CLERKS  — CUSTOMS  OF  THE  PUBLIC  SERVICE  — THE 
NEGRO  POPULATION -ODD  CHARACTERS  AND  WAYS  OF  LIVING. 

Those  who  knew  Washington  before  the  Board  of  Public 
Works,  under  the  leadership  of  Governor  Shepherd,  began 
the  remarkable  improvements,  described  elsewhere,  and  who 
have  not  visited  the  city  since,  can  hardly  imagine  the  great 
change  that  has  taken  place  everywhere  within  its  boundary.  The 
streets  once  filled  with  rude  specimens  of  architecture,  now  contain 
very  handsome  structures,  varied  and  ornate  ; and  in  the  popular  resi- 
dent sections  the  majority  of  the  houses  are  notable  for  their  pleasing 
and  tasteful  forms.  In  the  extensive  northwest  quarter  there  have 
been  erected  during  the  past  ten  years  large  numbers  of  very  costly 
and  magnificent  houses,  which  in  variety  and  elegance  of  form,  in 
size  and  in  luxurious  appointments,  are  unequaled  in  the  country. 
What  is  known  as  the  “ West  End  ” is  more  especially  the  fashionable 
locality,  but  in  other  portions  of  the  northwest  quarter,  and  also  on 
Capitol  Hill,  are  many  streets  of  fine  mansions.  The  city  is  now 
very  largely  one  of  brick  and  stone,  there  being  but  few  wooden 
buildings,  except  in  the  sections  occupied  by  the  colored  people. 

The  West  End  comprises  about  five  miles  of  territory  stretching 
east  and  south  from  the  foot  of  Kalorama  Hill,  which  borders  on 
Rock  Creek  and  West  Washington.  It  was  formerly  called  “The 
Slashes,”  and  was  a dreary,  unhealthy  part  of  the  city,  covered  with 
swamps,  and  mainly  occupied  by  negro  squatters.  During  the  Re- 
bellion the  government  erected  barracks  over  it,  and  it  was  largely 


240 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


used  for  military  purposes.  When  the  Board  of  Public  Works  began 
its  improvements  this  marsh-land  was  included  in  the  comprehensive 
plan.  It  was  carefully  drained  and  graded,  and  everything  necessary 
was  done  to  make  it  desirable  for  habitation.  Many  acres  were  pur- 
chased at  a low  price  by  a combination  of  real  estate  speculators,  who 
were  shrewd  enough  to  see  that  the  district  was  likely  in  a short  time 
to  become  the  most  eligible  in  the  city  for  the  residences  of  the  wealthy 
and  fashionable  class.  Their  sagacity  was  well  rewarded,  for  the 
acres  they  had  obtained  so  cheaply  were  afterward  disposed  of  at 
several  dollars  per  foot,  and  great  fortunes  realized.  The  land  in 
every  part  of  the  West  End  is  now  held  at  very  high  prices,  and  is 
considered  to  be  the  most  valuable  in  Washington. 

Connecticut  Avenue,  with  a roadway  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet 
in  width,  extending  from  Lafayette  Square  to  the  northern  boundary- 
line  of  the  city,  is  the  principal  thoroughfare  of  this  district ; and  Mas- 
sachusetts, Rhode  Island,  New  Hampshire,  and  Vermont  avenues  — 
broad,  beautiful  highways  — also  cross  it.  There  are  squares  and 
circles  with  parks  and  statues  in  various  portions  of  the  district,  and 
its  whole  appearance  is  exceedingly  bright  and  charming. 

It  is  on  this  spacious  plain,  but  a few  years  ago  an  almost  value- 
less area  of  swamps,  that  those  palatial  mansions,  the  pride  and  boast 
of  the  capital,  are  erected.  Here  are  the  residences  of  the  wealthiest 
citizens,  and  those  of  the  millionaires  from  different  sections  of  the 
United  States  who  make  Washington  their  winter  home.  Here  are 
the  grand  mansions  of  Blaine,  Windom,  Cameron,  Cox,  Stewart, 
Matthews,  and  a large  number  of  other  prominent  men,  and  those  of 
most  of  the  high  government  officials,  and  the  leading  officers  of  the 
army  and  nav}^.  Here  are  the  foreign  legation  buildings,  and  here 
the  leaders  of  society  have  congregated  under  splendid  roof-trees. 
On  every  side  is  a dazzling  spectacle  of  luxury  and  grandeur,  and 
one  can  obtain,  by  a stroll  through  the  avenues  and  streets,  a realiza- 
tion of  the  enormous  wealth  that  is  centering  in  Washington  at  the 
present  time.  Those  competent  to  judge  express  the  opinion  that  in 
less  than  ten  years  every  portion  of  this  district,  extensive  as  it  is, 
will  be  covered  with  magnificent  buildings,  and  that  it  will  be  verily 
a region  of  palaces.  Before  the  capital  celebrates  its  centennial,  it 
is  likely  that  tlie  West  End  will  have  obtained  great  fame  as  one  of 
the  finest  resident  sections  in  the  world. 

Fashion  has  firmly  set  its  seal  upon  this  district,  and  all  those  im- 
provements which  come  with  opulence  are  lavished  upon  it.  The 


THE  WEST  END. 


mansions  here  are  constructed  of  marble,  costly  greenstone,  and  fine 
pressed  brick,  and  ai'e  so  arranged  as  to  secure  the  highest  quality  of 
artistic  work.  The  architecture  includes  many  forms  of  the  antique 
and  the  mediseval,  and  the  most  approved  modern  styles.  The  inte- 
riors are  remarkable  for  special  methods  of  ornamentation,  for  mar- 
bles and  bronzes,  for  carvings  and  paintings,  and  exquisite  cabintt 
work.  Europe  and  the  Orient  are  searched  for  designs  and  sub- 
stances, and  apparently  there  is  no  limit  as  to  cost. 

It  IS  a common  saying  of  the  citizens  that  Washington  is  destined 
to  be  the  most  popular  winter  resort  of  the  continent,  on  account  of 
its  genial  climate  and  the  host  of  attractions  it  furnishes  not  to  be  ob- 
tained elsewhere,  and  that  year  by  year  greater  numbers  of  Northern 


THE  JAMES  G.  BLAINE  MANSION. 


16 


242 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


people  of  wealth  and  leisure  will  take  up  their  residence  in  it.  People 
who  wish  to  escape  the  rigorous  northern  winter,  and  at  the  same 
time  have  the  excitement  and  enjoyments  of  a large  city,  will,  it  is  be- 
lieved, speedily  ascertain  that  the  capital  is  most  desirable  as  a winter 
home.  This  belief  is  already  partially  realized,  as  every  winter  dur- 
ing the  past  few  years  throngs  of  strangers  have  sojourned  in  Wash- 
ington, and  the  demand  for  costly  dwellings  has  been  quite  remark- 
able. 

From  its  early  days  the  national  capital  has  been  noted  for  being 
a gay  and  pleasure-loving  city,  and  its  social  life  has  been  usually 
brilliant  and  delightful.  Of  late  it  has  developed  its  social  qualities 
to  a very  considerable  extent,  and  society  now  has  the  claim  of  cos- 
mopolitan characteristics.  The  city  is  so  admirably  adapted  for  the 
homes  of  people  of  refinement,  culture,  and  leisure,  that  many  believe 
it  will  become  in  a few  years  the  social  metropolis  of  the  United  States. 
There  are  receptions,  dinners,  balls,  germans,  afternoon  teas,  kettle- 
drums, and  all  sorts  of  entertainments  almost  without  number,  from  the 
beginning  of  winter  until  late  in  the  spring,  and  few  American  cities 
have  such  an  incessant  round  of  gayety.  Properly  the  social  season 
begins  on  New  Year’s  day  and  continues  till  Ash-Wednesday,  but  of 
late  years  it  has  been  quite  customary  to  have  society  entertainments 
before  January,  and  even  before  the  session  of  Congress  begins  in  the 
first  part  of  December,  and  to  continue  them  through  Lent.  Many 
society  people  do  not  observe  Lent  in  a strict  manner,  and  some  not 
at  all,  and  they  are  willing  to  give  receptions  and  parties  during  this 
period.  The  houses  of  the  wealthy  are  now  constructed  with  special 
reference  to  the  giving  of  grand  entertainments,  very  large  drawing- 
rooms and  dining-rooms  being  made,  and  accommodations  provided 
for  a host  of  guests. 

What  is  called  the  “ official  society ’’includes  the  President  and  the 
members  of  his  Cabinet,  Senators  and  Representatives,  members  of 
the  Supreme  Court,  and  of  foreign  legations,  and  persons  in  eminent 
positions  in  the  army  and  navy,  and  in  the  public  service  generally. 
Retired  statesmen,  justices,  generals,  and  others  once  prominently 
connected  with  the  government,  are  also  placed  in  this  society.  There 
are  many  social  organizations,  the  members  of  which  are  government 
employes  of  various  ranks,  and  state  associations,  which  include  all 
the  persons  socially  inclined  from  a certain  state  who  are  living  in  the 
city.  The  wealthy  residents,  not  connected  with  the  public  service, 
have  sets  and  circles,  exclusive  or  not,  as  it  may  be ; and  there  are 


SOCIETY  ETIQUETTE. 


243 


numerous  literary,  musical,  and  art  societies,  which  have  frequent  en- 
tertainments. 

It  is  said  that  Washington  society  people,  during  the  winter,  lunch 
in  one  place,  dine  in  another,  dance  in  several  houses  of  an  evening, 
and  are  never  at  home,  except  on  their  reception-days.  Each  week  of 
the  social  season  is  full  of  events.  Monday  is  the  reception-day  of  the 
wives  of  the  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  of  the  General  of  the 
Army  and  the  Admiral  of  the  Navy.  Many  of  the  residents  of  Capitol 
Hill  are  also  “ at  home”  on  that  day.  On  Tuesday  the  prominent 
families  of  the  West  End  have  receptions,  and  on  Wednesday  the 
members  of  the  Cabinet  and  the  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives receive  their  friends  and  the  public.  On  Thursday  many 
receptions  are  held  by  Senators  and  Representatives.  Friday  and 
Saturday  are  filled  out  variously.  There  are  very  many  pleasant 
“ Saturday  evenings” — dinners,  card-parties,  and  meetings  of  social 
organizations.  The  officers  stationed  at  the  United  States  Barracks, 
and  at  the  navy  yard,  give  weekly  receptions,  at  which  dancing  is 
customary. 

All  the  official  receptions  are  announced  in  the  newspapers,  and 
those  in  the  afternoon  are  open  to  the  public.  The  name  or  card 
should  be  promptly  given  to  the  usher  upon  entering  a house,  and  if 
the  name  is  not  properly  announced  it  should  be  mentioned  at  the 
presentation.  If  cards  are  left  by  strangers  they  are  always  honored 
by  return  cards,  or  calls  in  person,  and  invitations  to  evening  recep- 
tions in  official  circles  usually  follow.  Small  and  plain  cards  are 
used,  with  the  name  engraved  or  written,  but  never  printed.  The 
dress  customary  in  society  for  morning  calls  should  be  worn  at  after- 
noon receptions,  and  full  dress  in  the  evening.  The  hours  for  after- 
noon receptions  are  from  two  to  five  o’clock ; for  evening  receptions, 
from  eight  to  eleven  o’clock. 

It  is  customary  for  visitors  to  Washington  to  call  first  on  the  resi- 
dents. If  the  person  called  upon  is  “not  at  home,”  turn  down  the 
upper  right-hand  corner  of  the  card,  thus  indicating  that  the  call  was 
made  in  person.  If  the  call  is  intended  for  the  different  members  of 
the  family,  either  leave  several  cards,  or  one  with  the  right  side  en- 
tirely folded  over.  When  making  a parting  call,  previous  to  leaving 
the  city,  a card  should  be  left  with  p.  p.  c.  written  on  the  right-hand 
lower  corner.  The  time  to  return  calls  or  cards  is  within  three  days. 
A call  should  be  made  in  person  after  a dinner-party,  but  after  other 
entertainments  a card  may  be  sent  by  a servant  or  by  mail. 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


244 


Invitations  to  dinner  should  be  promptly  accepted  or  declined,  but 
with  regard  to  other  entertainments,  no  answer  need  be  sent  unless 
the  letters  R.  s.  v.  p.  are  on  the  invitation.  The  customary  form  of 

acceptance  to  a dinner  invitation  is  as  follows  : “ Mr.  R has  the 

honor  to  accept  Mr.  S ’s  kind  invitation  to  dinner  for  Wednesday, 

the  loth  of  February,  at  eight  o’clock.  Feb.  6,  188 — .”  The  date 
and  hour  of  the  dinner  are  mentioned  in  the  acceptance  to  show  that 
they  are  understood.  This  form,  propeidy  adapted,  may  be  used  in 
accepting  other  invitations. 

People  who  are  unacquainted  with  department  life  in  Washing- 
ton are  very  apt  to  believe  that  government  clerks,  as  a general  thing, 
are  indolent  and  improvident — a peculiar  set  who  have  obtained  office 
by  political  favor,  who  work  very  little,  and  spend  the  liberal  salaries 
they  receive  in  extravagant  living.  This  is  a singular  but  by  no 
means  uncommon  mistake.  Of  course  there  are  “black  sheep” 
among  the  clerks  — those  who  shirk  their  work,  are  full  of  tricks, 
and  are  generally  dishonorable  — but  it  can  be  truly  said  that  the 
majority  are  industrious,  sober,  economical,  and,  without  doubt,  full}'^ 
on  a par  with  similar  workers  in  commercial  lines.  Clerks  are  re- 
quired to  perform  a certain  amount  of  work  each  day,  and  the  work, 
when  done,  will  compare  favorably  with  that  performed  in  private 
business  establishments,  and  may  even  exceed  it  in  quality  and  quan- 
tity. All  of  the  government  work  must  be  done  in  a methodical, 
strictly  accurate  manner,  and  every  imperfection  or  short-coming  is 
recorded  and  serves  as  a bar  to  promotion,  and  also  as  a pretext  for 
dismissal  if  the  position  held  by  the  clerk  of  “ bad  record  ” is  wanted 
for  some  one  else.  In  some  of  the  departments  the  standard  of  work 
is  set  so  high,  and  the  quantity  required  each  day  is  so  great,  that  it 
is  only  by  the  most  diligent  efforts,  by  really  exhausting  labor,  that 
the  best  of  clerks  can  keep  their  records  entirely  free  from  discredit. 
The  idle  and  incompetent  are  constantly  being  dismissed,  unless  per- 
chance they  are  able  to  retain  their  places  by  means  of  “ strong  in- 
fluence,” or  by  cunning  devices  which  may  serve  for  a time  in  place 
of  honest,  faithful  labor. 

Tbe  department  clerks  in  reality  form  a solid,  intelligent,  import- 
ant part  of  the  population  of  Washington,  and  their  influence  is 
generally  for  good.  Many  are  householders,  over  five  thousand,  it  is 
estimated,  owning  comfortable  homes  of  their  own,  paid  for  out  of 
their  savings,  by  the  help  of  the  greatly  beneficial  system  of  cobpera- 


GOVERNMENT  CLERKS 


245 


tive  building,  and  also  by  the  installment  plan  applied  to  real  estate, 
which  for  the  past  ten  years  have  been  much  in  vogue  in  Washing- 
ton, and  which  have  done  a great  deal  to  make  it  a city  of  homes 
owned  by  those  who  live  in  them,  like  Philadelphia.  They  are  not 
the  aliens  they  have  been  represented  to  be,  in  any  sense  of  the  term. 
They  have  aided  in  the  growth  of  Washington,  they  take  pride  in  its 
beauty  and  prosperity,  and  large  numbers  look  upon  it  as  their  per- 
manent home.  If  they  leave  the  government  service  they  engage  in 
general  business,  and  some  of  the  most  successful  merchants  and 
professional  Tnen  of  the  city  were  once  department  clerks. 

There  are  many  veteran  clerks.  In  the  Treasury  Department  there 
is  one  who  has  served  since  the  administration  of  John  Quincy  Adams. 
A clerk  in  the  Navy  Department  was  appointed  in  1843,  and  has  given 
continuous  service  ever  since.  Here  and  there  may  be  found  those 
who  can  point  to  a record  of  ten,  twenty,  and  even  thirty  years  of 
service. 

When  one  goes  into  the  rooms  in  the  department  buildings,  and 
observes  the  clerks  working  over  great  piles  of  documents  with  an 


THE  ANTHONY  POLLOK  MANSION. 


246 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


intense,  concentrated  energy  rarely  seen  in  private  business — each 
room  under  the  vigilant  eye  of  an  official  — the  impression  produced 
is  that  it  is  not,  after  all,  such  “a  very  fine  thing”  to  be  a govern- 
ment employe  of  the  subordinate  class,  even  if  the  compensation  is 
liberal.  Distance,  indeed,  lends  enchantment  to  the  view  of  service 
in  the  departments.  Away  from  Washington  the  stories  of  the  large 
salaries  received  by  government  employes  for  doing  what  is  popu- 
larly supposed  to  be  little  work  in  a short  day  of  labor,  have  a very 
beguiling  effect,  and  thousands  of  persons  long  for  positions  in  the 
public  service,  and  regard  those  who  obtain  them  as  exceedingly 
fortunate.  It  is  evident  that  there  are  some  department  positions 
with  a compensation  very  much  out  of  proportion  to  the  work  per- 
formed— easy  and  lucrative  places;  but  a careful  inspection  of  the 
departments  will  convince  any  one  that  the  majority  of  the  clerks 
and  other  employes  render  a full  equivalent  for  their  salaries. 

A clerk’s  life  is  not  an  entirely  roseate  one.  Promptly  at  nine 
o’clock  each  morning  he  must  be  at  his  desk  to  begin  the  day’s  labor. 
Until  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  the  business  in  each  division  and 
bureau  goes  on  steadily,  and  frequently  very  rapidly,  as  in  most  of 
the  departments  the  affairs  are  many  months  behind  by  reason  of  the 
lack  of  employes.  Officials  implore  Congress  to  give  them  more 
clerks,  in  order  that  they  may  dispose  of  the  vast  accumulation  of 
business  in  their  hands,  but  the  appeals  are  seldom  heeded,  and  the 
accumulation  continues  despite  the  most  earnest  efforts  to  prevent  it. 
Seven  hours’  confinement  over  a desk  in  a close,  stiffing  room  ; the 
difficulty  very  often  of  executing  the  daily  task  to  the  satisfaction  of 
a hypei'critical  official;  the  “insolence  of  office,”  frequently  dis- 
played; the  irritating  system  of  watching  and  “spotting,”  common 
in  many  departments,  which  causes  bitter,  indignant  feelings ; the 
rigid,  uncompromising  adherence  to  strict  rules  in  one  case,  and  the 
unblushing  favoritism  shown  in  another ; the  demand  for  hours  of 
extra  work  without  extra  pay  ; the  promotions,  not  from  merit,  but 
from  ability  to  fawn  and  “ crook  the  pregnant  hinges  of  the  knee,” — 
these  are  some  of  the  thorns  on  the  government  rose. 

Many  men  and  women  thrive  in  this  clerk-life  and  seem  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  it.  They  easily  shed  its  irritations  and  discomforts, 
they  like  the  short  day  of  labor,  and  they  quickly  discover  “ where 
thrift  may  follow  fawning.”  By  degrees  they  ascend  to  the  more 
lucrative,  less  restricted  positions,  and  often  are  able  to  hold  them  for 
a long  time.  Others,  of  a different  nature,  try  the  life  a while,  and 


THE  COLORED  POPULATION, 


247 


then  retire  disgusted,  quite  willing  to  work  more  hours,  and  even  for 
less  salary,  in  private  business,  where  at  least  they  will  be  regarded 
as  something  more  than  mere  machines  to  be  entirely  regulated  by 
official  caprice. 

There  are  nearly  fifty-six  hundred  classified  clerkships  in  the  de- 
partments, and  many  thousands  of  ungraded  positions.  Clerks  of 
the  first  class  receive  salaries  of  $1,200  per  year ; those  of  the  sec- 
ond class,  $1,400;  those  of  the  third  class,  $1,600;  those  of  the 
fourth  class,  $1,800.  In  the  ungraded  positions  the  salaries  range 
from  $700  to  $1,000.  Male  clerks  usually  begin  their  service  for  the 
government  at  $800  or  $1,000,  and  female  clerks  at  $700,  unless  they 
are  fortunate  enough  to  secure  classified  clerkships  at  once.  Chief 
clerks  who  rank  with  officials  have  salaries  from  $1,800  to  $2,700, 
and  stenographers  and  translators  of  foreign  languages,  from  $1,200 
to  $2,000.  Copyists,  who  are  mainly  women,  receive  from  $60  to  $75 
per  month.  Thirty  days  in  each  year  are  allowed  for  vacation,  dur- 
ing which  time  the  salary  is  continued,  and  in  case  of  sickness,  cer- 
tified to  by  a physician,  there  is  no  loss  of  compensation. 

Of  course  in  the  government  service,  as  in  affairs  generally,  the 
majority  of  the  employes  have  the  small  places  and  the  burden  of 
work.  Hundreds  of  well-educated  clerks  who  do  a great  deal  of 
drudgery  are  glad  to  get  $800  or  $1,000  per  year,  and  if  eventually 
they  are  so  fortunate  as  to  be  placed  on  the  list  of  those  entitled  to 
draw  $1,200,  they  are  happy  indeed.  The  higher,  more  lucrative 
places  are  usually  out  of  their  reach,  unless  they  are  specially  favored, 
or  have  distinguished  themselves  by  thoroughly  efficient  work. 

When  Washington  was  first  occupied  by  the  government,  in 
1800,  there  were  over  two  thousand  negroes  in  the  city,  and  over  four 
thousand  in  the  entire  District  of  Columbia.  They  were  mainly 
slaves  engaged  in  cultivating  plantations,  and  in  domestic  service. 
In  1830  there  were  6,512  free  negroes,  and  6,119  slaves.  When  sla- 
very was  abolished  in  the  District,  in  April,  1862,  some  nine  months 
before  the  general  emancipation,  there  were  about  3,000  slaves  and 
14,316  free  negroes.  In  1870  the  colored  population  had  increased  to 
43,404,  of  which  number  Washington  was  credited  with  35,455.  At 
the  present  time  the  city  has  nearly  49,000  colored  people,  and  ranks 
as  third  among  the  cities  of  the  United  States  in  this  class  of  popula- 
tion. 

It  has  been  said,  apparently  with  a great  deal  of  truth,  that  the 


248 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


capital  has  more  intelligent,  cultured,  well-to-do  colored  people  than 
any  other  American  city.  They  have  many  prosperous  churches, 
and  literary,  musical,  and  social  organizations,  and  the  thrifty  fami- 
lies give  very  pleasant  entertainments  during  the  winter.  Excellent 
public  schools,  a fine  college,  opportunities  for  lucrative  government 
service,  are  among  the  advantages  provided  for  the  colored  people, 
and  a certain  number,  by  no  means  small,  carefully  and  thoughtfully 
strive  to  reach  a good  position  — to  become  well  educated,  well  dis- 
ciplined. 

But,  looking  at  the  race  as  it  appears  on  the  surface  of  Washing- 
ton life,  it  must  be  admitted  that  many  are  improvident,  unreliable, 
careless  of  tbe  future,  and  are  quite  content  if  they  have  a ragged 
coat  to  wear,  a crust  to  eat,  and  plenty  of  leisure  to  enjoy  the  sun- 
shine. The  small,  dilapidated  cabins  occupied  by  this  class  in  some 
sections  of  East  and  South  Washington  are  really  marvels  of  shift- 
less contrivance.  Some  of  them  are  scarcely  larger  than  “ sugar- 
boxes,”  and  yet  they  will  give  shelter  to  a numerous  family.  About 
the  doors  of  these  fantastic,  wretched  abodes  a half-dozen  little  curl}’’ 
heads  usually  may  be  seen  playing. 

Near  Lincoln  Park  lives  a former  slave  of  John  Randolph,  the 
haughty  “ Lord  of  Roanoke.”  His  cabin  was  constructed  by  his 
own  hands,  and  is  comfortable  in  its  way,  although  rudely  fashioned 
and  sparsely  furnished.  The  old  man,  over  whose  white  head  many 
winters  have  swept,  is  held  in  high  regard  by  the  colored  people  liv- 
ing in  his  vicinity,  and  gains  a living  by  telling  fortunes  and  pre- 
scribing simple  remedies  for  various  ailments.  He  is  an  odd  charac- 
ter, and  when  in  the  humor  will  describe  his  former  life  on  Ran- 
dolph’s plantation  in  quaint,  vivid,  and  intensely  interesting  language. 
His  clothes  are  patched  and  scarce  hold  together  on  his  bent  and  tot- 
tering form.  Usually  he  sits  crouching  before  his  hearth-stone,  rub- 
bing his  thin  hands  and  muttering  to  himself,  and  he  leaves  his  cabin 
only  at  rare  intervals  to  hobble  a few  squares. 

The  most  ignorant  of  the  colored  people  are  very  superstitious, 
and  have  great  faith  in  charms  and  omens,  and  all  of  those  singular 
things  which  have  come  from  the  South  and  pass  current  under  the 
name  of  voudooism.  There  are  voudoo  doctors  of  their  own  race, 
who  live  well,  dress  fashionably,  and  apparently  make  a great  deal 
of  money.  They  profess  to  cure  everything,  from  a big  wart  to  a bad 
case  of  what  they  call  “ devilish  conjuration.”  They  are  very  mys- 
terious in  their  practice,  and  use  many  curiously  fashioned  articles 


THE  COLORED  POPULATION. 


249 


which  they  audaciously  claim  possess  cabalistic  and  astonishing  qual- 
ities>  and  utter  many  strange  words.  They  impress  their  patients  by 
all  sorts  of  tricks,  such  as  manipulating  large  snakes,  whispering  in 
the  ear  of  a dog  and  pretending  to  receive  an  answer,  and  other  silly 
actions.  The  credulous  negroes  look  with  awe  on  these  transparent 
frauds,  and  do  many  ridiculous  things  at  the  bidding  of  the  “ doc- 
tors.” 

Around  the  great  markets  one  will  see  among  the  hucksters  whose 
little  stands  crowd  all  the  walks,  a good  representation  of  colored 
people  of  peculiar  characteristics.  The  colored  hucksters  offer  for 
sale  twists  of  tobacco  in  the  natural  leaf,  warranted  to  be  perfectly 
pure  Virginia  weed  ; many  herbs,  barks,  and  roots,  and  large  quan- 
tities of  flowers  and  “ garden  sass,”  and  some  have  coops  of  live 
chickens  and  ducks.  There  are  numerous  women  in  the  groups, 
wearing  large  bandanna  handkerchiefs  gracefully  entwined  round 
their  heads,  turban-like,  but  the  colors  are  not  as  gorgeous  as  they 
were  in  the  days  “ befo’ the  wa’.”  The  gaudy  red  and  yellow  ban- 
dannas are  rarely  seen,  and  it  is  said  that  the  African  dames  of  the 


250 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON 


markets  have  resigned  to  the  aristocratic  aesthetes  these  glowing  pri- 
mary tints.  By  their  pleasant  ways,  ready  wit  and  repartee,  the  huck- 
ster women  induce  you  to  buy  liberally.  They  call  you  “ honey,”  in 
soft,  cajoling  tones,  but  do  not  take  as  kindly  to  the  salutation  of 
“Aunty”  as  they  did  years  ago.  They  are  an  interesting  study,  and 
give  a good  deal  of  picturesqueness  to  the  markets. 

On  the  wharves  where  vessels  bringing  oysters  to  the  city  from 
the  Virginia  beds  deposit  their  cargoes,  will  be  found  daily  through- 
out the  winter  hosts  of  negroes  known  as  “ oyster-shuckers.”  They 
buy  oysters  from  the  vessels,  and,  seated  in  groups,  skillfully 
“ shuck  ” or  remove  the  shells,  shouting  and  laughing  while  at  work. 
Then  taking  the  bivalves  in  long  tin  cans,  they  go  over  the  city,  call- 
ing clearly  and  loudly  as  they  walk,  “ Oys  ! oys  ! here’s  yer  nice 
fresh  oys  ! ” Great  quantities  of  oysters  are  sold  by  these  vendors 
every  day  during  the  season. 

There  are  manifold  other  occupations  followed  by  the  black  man, 
diligently  seeking  the  honest  penny.  The  workers  have  no  lellow- 
ship  with  the  idlers  to  be  seen  on  all  the  thoroughfares  — ragged, 
shiftless  sons  of  Ham,  who  contrive  to  live  in  some  unknown  way, 
although  they  toil  not. 


TENTir  AND  G STREETS  N.  W. , SHOWING  FIRST  CONGREGATIONAL  CHURCH. 


CHAPTER  XVII 


CITY  INSTITUTIONS  — CORCORAN  GALLERY  OF  ART— THE  LOUISE  HOME  — PROM- 
INENT CHURCHES  AND  SCHOOLS  — CONVENT  OF  THE  VISITATION— THE 
PUBLIC  MARKETS  — PLACES  OF  AMUSEMENT,  HOTELS,  BENEVOLENT  INSTI- 
TUTIONS, ETC.  — MASOITC  TEMPLE  — ODD  FELLOWS’  BUILDING  — THE  CEME- 
TERIES—GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  CITY  AFFAIRS. 

ONE  of  the  institutions  of  Washington  which  attracts  a great 
deal  of  attention  is  the  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art,  presented 
to  the  people  of  the  United  States  by  Mr.  William  W. 
Corcoran.  It  was  deeded  to  trustees  on  May  lo,  1869, 
and  a year  later  was  incorporated  by  act  of  Congress,  the  building 
and  grounds  being  forever  exempted  from  taxation.  In  his  deed  of 
gift  Mr.  Corcoran  stated  that  the  institution  was  designed  for  “the 
perpetual  establishment  and  encouragement  of  painting,  sculpture, 
and  the  fine  arts  generally,”  and  the  condition  was  imposed  that  it 
should  be  open  to  the  public  without  charge  on  certain  days  of  the 
week,  and  “ on  other  days  at  moderate  and  reasonable  charges,  to  be 
applied  to  the  current  expenses  of  procuring  and  keeping  in  order 
the  building  and  its  contents.”  The  hope  was  expressed  that  it 
would  provide  “ not  only  a pure  and  refined  pleasure  for  residents 
and  visitors  at  the  national  capital,”  but  that  it  would  be  useful  in  the 
development  of  American  genius. 

The  gallery  is  situated  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Pennsylvania 
Avenue  and  Seventeenth  Street,  directly  opposite  the  State,  War,  and 
Navy  Building.  It  has  a frontage  of  one  hundred  and  six  feet,  and 
a depth  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  It  is  constructed  of 
fine  pressed  brick,  with  brown-stone  facings  and  ornaments,  and  is  of 
the  renaissance  order  of  architecture.  Ten  feet  above  the  ordinary 
roof  rises  a mansard  roof,  with  a central  pavilion,  and  two  smaller 


252 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ones.  The  building  is  two  stories  in  height,  and  the  front  is  divided 
into  recesses  by  pilasters  with  capitals  representing  Indian  corn,  and 
has  four  niches  in  which  are  statues  of  Phidias,  Raphael,  Michael 
Angelo,  and  Albert  Durer,  portraying  sculpture,  painting,  architec- 
ture, and  engraving.  On  the  front  are  fine  carvings,  the  Corcoran 
monogram,  and  the  inscription,  “ Dedicated  to  Art.”  On  the  Seven- 
teenth Street  side  are  niches  containing  the  statues  of  Titian,  Da 
Vinci,  Rubens,  and  Rembrandt,  and  it  is  the  intention  to  add  those  of 
Murillo,  Canova,  and  Crawford.  The  statues  are  of  Carrara  mar- 
ble, seven  feet  high,  and  were  executed  by  M.  Ezekiel,  an  American 
sculptor  residing  in  Rome.  The  building  was  designed  by  James 
Renwick,  of  New  Yoi'k,  and  erected  at  a cost  of  $250,000.  It  is 
very  attractive  in  appearance.  The  gallery  was  opened  to  the  pub- 
lic in  December,  1874. 

Mr.  Corcoran  gave  to  it  his  private  collection  of  paintings  and 
statuary,  valued  at  $100,000,  and  an  endowment  fund  of  $900,000. 
One  of  the  trustees  visited  Europe  and  made  extensive  purchases  of 
art  works,  being  very  successful  in  procuring  a large  number  of  not- 
able productions.  Many  American  works  of  great  value  were  also 
obtained.  The  gallery  is  open  daily,  and  on  Tuesda}"s,  Thursdays, 
and  Saturdays  is  free ; on  other  days  there  is  an  admission  fee  of 
twenty-five  cents.  Under  certain  regidations  persons  are  allowed  to 
draw  from  the  casts  and  to  copy  the  paintings.  The  annual  income 
is  nearly  $80,000,  the  larger  portion  of  which  is  used  in  the  purchase 
of  pictures  and  statues. 

The  lower  story  of  the  building  is  entirely  devoted  to  the  exhibi- 
tion of  sculpture,  bronzes,  and  ceramic  ware.  In  spacious  halls  are 
magnificent  collections  of  casts  of  antique  marbles,  representing  the 
best  works  of  the  great  Greek  sculptors.  There  are  also  many  orig- 
inal examples  of  modern  sculpture,  including  a number  of  celebrated 
works.  The  collections  of  bronzes  and  ceramic  ware  are  very  exten- 
sive and  noteworthy. 

In  the  second  story  are  four  galleries  of  paintings,  the  main  one 
being  ninety-five  feet  by  forty-four  and  one-half  feet,  and  thirty-eight 
feet  high,  with  a richly  frescoed  ceiling.  These  galleries  contain 
several  hundred  paintings  carefully  selected  to  furnish  good  examples 
of  modern  art,  with  sometliing  of  tlie  ancient.  Many  well-known 
American  and  European  painters  are  represented  on  the  walls,  and 
most  of  the  canvases  are  very  valuable  originals.  The  gallery  ranks 
among  the  finest  in  the  country,  and  in  some  particulars  has  no  equal. 


CORCORAN  GALLERY  OF  ART. 


253 


THE  CORCORAN  GALLERY  OF  ART. 

With  its  large  income  to  be  devoted  to  acquiring  the  best  art  works, 
it  must  in  time  possess  extraordinary  collections. 

Mr.  Corcoran,  the  venerable  philanthropist,  who  has  given  this 
superb  gallery  to  the  public,  and  whose  long  life  has  been  rich  in  good 
works,  is  a native  of  Georgetown,  but  for  many  years  he  has  been  a 
resident  of  Washington.  He  began  his  business  career  as  an  auc- 
tioneer, and  afterward  established  a banking-house,  which  he  con- 
ducted very  successfully  for  an  extended  period.  By  his  financial 
operations,  and  by  early  investments  in  city  lands  which  greatly  in- 
creased in  value  when  Washington  developed  into  a thriving  city,  he 
became  a millionaire.  The  princely  fortune  he  possesses  is  con- 
stantly being  used  for  the  benefit  of  worthy  objects. 

In  1871  Mr.  Corcoran  founded  the  Louise  Home,  an  institution 
designed  for  impoverished  gentlewomen  who  may  need  the  shelter 
of  a friendly  roof.  It  was  named  after  his  deceased  wife  and  daugh- 


254 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ter.  It  has  an  endowment  fund  of  $250,000,  and  is  managed  by  a 
board  of  lady  trustees.  The  building  is  situated  on  Massachusetts 
Avenue,  between  Fifteenth  and  Sixteenth  streets,  and  cost  $200,000. 
It  is  a beautiful  brick  structure,  four  stories  high,  surmounted  by  a 
mansard  roof,  with  a central  pavilion,  and  stands  within  a spacious 
enclosure  of  lawn  and  garden,  a conspicuous  object  in  the  fashion- 
able West  End.  The  interior  is  elegant  in  its  appointments.  The 
doors  of  this  noble  institution  are  always  open  to  women  of  refinement 
and  education  who  require  assistance.  Visitors  are  admitted  every 
week-day  afternoon. 

Washington,  it  may  be  said,  can  safely  dispute  with  Brooklyn 
the  title  of  “The  City  of  Churches,”  as  there  are  at  present  within 
its  borders  no  less  than  one  hundred  and  ninety  churches,  most  of 
them  apparently  in  a flourishing  condition.  There  are  fifty-nine 
Methodist  churches,  forty-six  Baptist,  twenty-two  Episcopal,  seven- 
teen Presbyterian,  thirteen  Catholic,  ten  Lutheran,  and  a variety  of 
other  denominations.  Many  of  the  church  structures  are  large  and 
handsome,  and  some  of  them  are  remarkable  for  graceful,  pleasing 
architecture. 

The  oldest  Episcopal  churches  in  the  city  are  Christ  Church, 
erected  on  G Street,  near  the  navy  yard,  in  1795  ; and  St.  John’s 
Church  on  H Street,  near  the  White  House,  which  dates  from  1816. 
The  distinguished  Latrobe  designed  St.  John’s,  which  is  of  brick, 
covered  with  stucco,  and  in  the  form  of  a Latin  cross.  One  of  its 
pews  is  set  apart  for  the  Presidents  of  the  United  States,  many  of 
whom,  from  the  time  of  President  Madison,  have  worshiped  in  the 
venerable  edifice.  Other  prominent  Episcopal  churches  are  the  As- 
cension, corner  of  Massachusetts  Avenue  and  Tweltth  Street;  the 
Epiphany,  on  G Street,  between  Thirteenth  and  Fourteenth  streets 
northwest;  the  Incarnation,  on  N Street,  corner  of  Twelfth  north- 
west ; St.  Andrew’s,  corner  of  Fourteenth  and  Corcoran  streets  north- 
west ; the  Holy  Cross,  on  Massachusetts  Avenue,  corner  of  Eighteenth 
Street;  and  Trinity,  corner  of  Third  and  C streets  northwest. 

About  four  miles  from  Washington  is  the  oldest  Episcopal  church 
in  the  District  of  Columbia  — St.  Paul’s  Church,  of  Rock  Creek 
Parish.  It  is  situated  adjacent  to  the  Soldier’s  Home,  on  land  given 
by  the  colonial  worthy,  John  Bradford,  in  1719’  held  in  perpe- 

tuity for  church  purposes.  St.  Paul’s  was  erected  in  1719,  of  brick 
imported  from  England,  and  although  it  has  been  remodeled,  the 
original  walls  remain,  with  every  appearance  of  enduring  for  a 


PROMINENT  CHURCHES. 


255 


number  of  years  longer.  An  extensive  burial-ground  surrounds  the 
church,  in  which  many  of  the  first  residents  of  Washington  are 
buried,  some  of  the  grave-stones  bearing  dates  of  the  past  century. 

The  New  York  Avenue  Church  is  the  most  prominent  of  the  Pres- 
byterian churches.  It  has  a large  membership,  and  is  attended  by 
many  Presbyterians  sojourning  in  the  capital  during  the  winter.  The 
First  Church,  on  Four  and  One-half  Street ; the  Central  Church,  cor- 
ner of  Third  and  I streets  northwest;  the  Fourth  Church,  on  Ninth 
Street  northwest,  and  the  Metropolitan  Church,  on  Fourth  Street, 
corner  of  B southwest,  are  to  be  ranked  among  the  prominent  houses 
of  worship. 

The  First  Baptist  Church,  on  Thirteenth  Street  northwest,  began 
existence  in  1803,  and  the  Second  Baptist  Church,  on  Virginia  Ave- 
nue, in  1810.  These  were  the  first  of  the  numerous  churches  of  this 
denomination.  Calvary  Church,  corner  of  Eighth  and  H streets 
northwest;  the  E Street  Church  ; the  Metropolitan  Church,  corner  of 
A and  Sixth  streets  northeast,  and  the  North  Baptist  Church,  on  Four- 
teenth Street  northwest,  are  leading  churches.  The  largest  of  the 
colored  Baptist  church  organizations  is  the  Nineteenth  Street  Church, 
which  has  a fine  edifice  in  the  West  End. 

There  is  only  one  Unitarian  church  in  Washington,  the  All  Souls 
Church,  corner  of  Fourteenth  and  L streets  northwest.  This  church 
is  attended  by  a fashionable  and  distinguished  congregation,  com- 
prising many  persons  of  high  official  position,  and  of  prominence  in 
society. 

Meetings  of  Methodists  were  held  in  Washington  as  early  as 
1805,  and  in  1815  the  Foundry  Church  (where  President  Hayes  wor- 
shiped) was  established.  Methodism  flourishes,  there  being  at  pres- 
ent more  churches  of  this  denomination  in  the  city  than  of  any  other. 
The  principal  churches  are  the  Metropolitan  Church,  on  Four  and 
One-half  Street;  the  Foundry  Church,  corner  of  Fourteenth  and  G 
streets  northwest ; the  McKendree  Church,  on  Massachusetts  Ave- 
nue ; the  Hamline  Church,  corner  of  Ninth  and  P streets  northwest, 
and  the  Fourth  Street  Church.  The  Asbury  Church,  corner  of 
Eleventh  and  K streets  northwest,  has  a large  and  influential  col- 
ored congregation. 

There  is  but  one  Universalist  church  in  the  city  — the  Church  of 
Our  Father,  corner  of  Thirteenth  and  L streets  northwest.  The 
church  was  erected  in  1883,  at  a cost  of  about  $30,000.  For  some 
years  the  society  worshiped  in  the  Masonic  Temple. 


256 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


The  Congregational  churches  are  the  First  Church,  corner  of 
Tenth  and  G streets  northwest,  and  the  Tabernacle  of  the  Congre- 
gation, on  Ninth  Street,  between  B Street  and  Virginia  Avenue 
southwest.  There  are  also  two  mission  churches. 

The  Lutheran  churches  are  divided  into  English  and  German, 
there  being  more  of  the  latter  than  the  former.  The  Memorial 
Church,  on  Thomas  Circle,  at  the  intersection  of  Fourteenth  Street 
and  Vermont  Avenue,  and  St.  Paul's  Church,  corher  of  Eleventh  and 
H streets  northwest,  are  the  principal  English  ones. 

On  Vermont  Avenue,  between  N and  O streets,  is  the  Church  of 
the  Christian  Disciples,  generally  known  as  the  Garfield  Memorial 
Church.  It  is  the  leading  church  of  the  Christian  faith  in  the  United 
States.  In  the  small  chapel  which  formerly  stood  on  the  site  of  this 
church  President  Garfield  worshiped  for  many  years,  and  the  pew 
he  occupied  has  been  placed  in  the  new  church.  It  is  draped  in 
black,  and  bears  a silver  tablet  on  which  is  the  name  of  the  lamented 
President. 

There  are  two  Friends’  Meeting-Houses  in  the  citv ; one,  the 
Hicksite,  on  I Street  northwest;  and  the  other,  the  Orthodox,  on 
Thirteenth  Street  northwest. 

The  principal  Catholic  churches  are  St.  Patrick’s,  on  G Street 
northwest;  St.  Peter’s,  on  Capitol  Hill;  St.  Dominick’s,  corner  of 
Sixth  and  E streets  southwest ; St.  Matthew’s,  corner  of  Fifteenth 
and  H streets  northwest ; St.  Aloysius,  corner  of  North  Capitol  and 
I streets  northwest;  the  Immaculate  Conception,  corner  of  Eighth 
and  N streets  northwest;  and  St.  Stephen’s,  corner  of  Pennsylvania 
Avenue  and  Twenty-fifth  Street  northwest.  The  oldest  is  St. 
Patrick’s,  which  was  established  in  1804.  There  are  two  German 
Catholic  churches:  St.  Mary’s,  on  Fifth  Street  northwest;  and  St. 
Joseph’s,  on  Second  Street  northeast ; and  one  church  designed  for 
colored  people,  St.  Augustine’s,  on  Fifteenth  Street,  northwest. 

Two  Hebrew  synagogues  have  a large  attendance.  They  are 
the  Congregation  Adas  Israel  (orthodox),  corner  of  Sixth  and  G 
streets  northwest;  and  the  Washington  Hebrew  Congregation,  on 
Eighth  Street  northwest. 

Congress  annually  appropriates  about  $500,000  for  the  support 
of  the  public  schools  of  the  District  of  Columbia.  The  schools  are 
in  charge  of  trustees,  subordinate  to  whom  are  two  superintendents, 
one  having  the  management  of  the  white  schools,  and  the  other  of 


THE  PUBLIC  SCHOOLS 


257 


the  colored  schools.  The  salary  of  one  superintendent  is  $2,700; 
that  of  the  other,  $2,250.  Five  hundred  and  twenty-five  teachers 
are  employed,  their  salaries  aggregating  $349,000  per  year.  There 
are  twenty-four  prominent  school  buildings,  most  of  which  are  in 
Washington,  and  a number  of  smaller  ones.  The  large  buildings 
were  erected  at  an  expenditure  of  many  thousands  of  dollars,  and 
are  considered  models  of  school  architecture.  They  have  every  ap- 
proved appliance  and  convenience,  and  will  accommodate  large 
numbers  of  pupils. 

The  schools  of  Washington,  up  to  1864,  were  very  poor  and  in- 
adequate. In  that  year  the  Wallach  School,  a fine,  spacious  brick 
building,  was  erected  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  betw'een  Seventh  and 
Eighth  streets  southeast.  It  was  named  after  Richard  Wallach,  who 
was  mayor  of  the  city  from  1862  to  1868.  Other  large  and  suitable 
buildings  followed,  and  great  attention  was  paid  to  educational  mat- 
ters, nothing  being  left  undone  which  would  make  the  school  system 
equal  to  that  of  any  city  of  the  country.  Washingtonians  now  point 
with  proper  pride  to  their  splendid  school  buildings  and  admirable 
system  of  education,  which  furnishes  equal  advantages  to  white  and 


THE  WINDOM  MANSION. 


17 


258  PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 

colored  children.  Nearly  thirty  thousand  pupils  are  enrolled  in  the 
schools. 

The  Franklin  School  is  the  finest  of  the  school  buildings,  although 
some  of  the  others  approximate  it  in  elegance  of  design.  It  is  a 
large  brick  edifice,  with  three  stories  and  a basement,  and  contains 
fourteen  school-rooms.  It  stands  on  the  corner  of.  Thirteenth  and  K 
streets  northwest,  opposite  a beautiful  park,  and  in  a locality  filled 
with  costly  residences. 

The  High  School,  on  O Street  northwest ; the  Seaton  School,  on 
I Street  northwest ; and  the  Jefferson  School,  on  Sixth  Street  south- 
west, are  imposing  buildings.  The  latter  is  the  largest  school  build- 
ing in  the  city,  having  ample  accommodations  for  twelve  hundred 
scholars.  There  are  six  prominent  colored  schools,  the  most  notable 
of  which  are  the  Sumner  School,  corner  of  Seventeenth  and  M streets 
northwest,  and  the  Lincoln  School,  corner  of  Second  and  C streets 
southeast.  The  former  was  erected  at  a cost  of  $70,000,  and  is  a 
very  fine  building. 

Among  the  important  Catholic  educational  institutions  is  the  Con- 
vent of  the  Visitation,  or  Visitation  Academy,  which  occupies  the 
entire  square  on  Connecticut  Avenue  between  L and  M streets.  It 
emanated  from  the  famous  institution  in  Georgetown,  which  is  the 
“mother”  community  of  the  order  of  Nuns  of  the  Visitation  in  the 
United  States,  and  for  twenty-seven  j^ears  had  its  home  in  the  old 
convent  building  on  Tenth  Street,  recently  demolished.  In  1877  the 
community  removed  to  the  large  and  beautiful  building  it  now  occn- 
pies.  The  convent  is  surrounded  by  spacious  grounds  enclosed  by  a 
brick  wall,  and  is  an  attractive  and  prominent  object  in  the  section  of 
the  city  in  which  it  is  located. 

On  I Street,  between  North  Capitol  and  First  streets  northwest, 
is  the  Gonzaga  College,  conducted  by  fathers  of  the  Society  of  Jesus. 
It  was  incorporated  as  a university  in  1858. 

The  National  Medical  College,  connected  with  the  Columbian 
University,  is  located  on  II  Street,  between  Thirteenth  and  Four- 
teenth streets  northwest.  It  was  founded  in  1824,  and  the  present 
building,  erected  at  a cost  of  $40,000  in  1864,  'W'as  the  gift  of  Mr. 
William  W.  Corcoran.  The  Law  School  of  Columbian  University, 
established  in  1826,  is  located  on  Fifth  Street,  opposite  Judiciary 
Square. 

The  Medical  and  Law  Schools  of  Georgetown  College  are  located 
in  Washington,  the  former  at  the  corner  of  Tenth  and  E streets 


THE  PUBLIC  MARKETS. 


259 


THE  T.OUISE  HOME. 


northwest,  and  the  latter  on  F Street,  between  Ninth  and  Tenth 
streets  northwest. 

The  public  markets  of  Washington  are  among  the  finest  in  the 
United  States,  and  are  objects  of  considerable  interest  to  strangers. 
They  consist  of  the  Center  Market,  on  the  south  side  of  Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue,  between  Seventh  and  Ninth  streets  northwest;  the 
Northern  Liberty  Market,  on  Fifth  Street,  between  K and  L streets 
northwest ; the  Northern  Market,  on  Seventh  Street,  between  O and 
P streets  northwest;  the  Eastern  Market,  on  Capitol  Hill,  at  the 
junction  of  Seventh  Street  east,  and  North  Carolina  Avenue  ; and 
the  Western  Market,  on  K Street,  between  Twentieth  and  Twenty- 
first  streets  northwest.  They  are  supplied  with  a profusion  of  fine 


26o 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


vegetables  and  fruits,  game,  fish,  oysters,  and  the  best  qualities  of 
meats.  Washington  being  situated  in  the  centre  of  a luxuriant  agri- 
cultural region,  and  adjacent  to  the  great  oyster  and  fishing-grounds 
of  the  Potomac  River  and  Chesapeake  Bay,  is  enabled  to  have  an 
abundance  of  food  products  in  its  markets.  It  has  also  special  facil- 
ities for  obtaining  early  vegetables  and  fruits  from  the  South,  and 
meats  from  contiguous  districts  and  from  the  West. 

The  Center  Market  is  the  largest  of  the  markets,  and  in  many 
particulars,  it  is  considered  to  be  the  market  -par  cxcelletice  of  the 
country.  The  building  was  begun  in  1870,  and  opened  in  July,  1873, 
its  erection  having  cost  $350,000.  It  is  located  on  one  of  the  most 
central  squares  in  Washington,  which  has  been  devoted  to  market 
purposes  since  the  foundation  of  the  city,  and  is  surrounded  by  exten- 
sive grounds  and  wide  streets.  Here  was  the  well-known  “ Marsh 
Market”  of  ante-bellum  days  — a rough,  dilapidated  building,  or 
series  of  buildings,  but  filled  to  overflowing  with  good  “marketing,” 
and  distinguished  for  its  quaint,  motley  assemblages. 

Four  capacious  brick  buildings  constitute  the  Center  Market, 
those  on  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue  front  being  very  ornate  and  pleas- 
ing in  design.  They  form  a square  and  are  connected,  so  that  in 
going  through  the  market  they  seem  very  much  like  one  building. 
They  are  four  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  length,  and  their  average 
width  is  eighty-two  feet.  The  total  space  available  for  market  pur- 
poses is  84,818  feet.  One  building  is  used  exclusively  for  wholesale 
business  in  meats  and  produce.  It  is  three  stories  high  and  contains 
fourteen  large  stores,  with  elevators  to  the  upper  stories.  The  other 
buildings  are  two  stories  in  height,  and  have  great  arched  roofs. 
They  contain  six  hundred  and  sixty-six  stalls  and  stands  for  the  retail 
business,  and  have  wide  aisles  and  spaces.  There  is  room  for  three 
hundred  wagons  around  the  market,  and  the  covered  sidewalks  will 
accommodate  innumerable  hucksters’  stands.  The  rents  for  stalls  and 
stands  are  from  $5  to  $14  per  month,  and  the  yearly  rent-roll  is  nearly 
$60,000.  The  market  is  owned  by  the  Washington  Market  Com- 
pany. 

The  daily  business  in  and  around  this  splendid  structure  is  enor- 
mous. During  the  morning  hours  there  are  throngs  of  buyers  of  all 
classes  of  society  — fashionable  women  of  the  West  End,  accompa- 
nied by  negro  servants,  mingling  with  people  of  less  opulent  sec- 
tions, all  busily  engaged  in  selecting  the  day’s  household  supplies.  It 
is  a scene  of  wonderful  variety  and  animation,  and  has  much  of  the 


THE  PUBLIC  MARKETS. 


261 


picturesqueness  noticeable  in  the  markets  farther  south.  And  on 
Saturday  evenings,  when  the  market  is  glowing  with  myriads  of 
lights,  and  is  lively  and  bustling  with  the  excitement  of  a great  traffic, 
it  has  peculiar  interest  and  fascination.  An  extensive  variety  of  arti- 
cles, other  than  food  products,  can  - be  purchased.  Flowers  and 
plants  of  numberless  sorts  are  spread  out  in  tempting  array ; tin, 
wooden,  and  crockery  ware,  and  various  household  utensils;  cloth- 
ing, jewelry  and  trinkets,  sweet-smelling  herbs  and  barks,  pictures 
and  books,  smokers’  articles  — these,  and  more,  are  to  be  obtained. 
Cooked  food  is  offered,  such  as  hominy,  smoking  hot,  sold  by  the 
quart  for  family  use ; and  everything  in  the  baker’s  line  is  to  be 
found  in  abundance.  Indeed,  the  market  is  a vast,  convenient  bazar, 
where  one  can  be  readily  supplied  with  innumerable  things  in  daily 
demand. 

The  Northern  Liberty  Market  is  the  second  in  magnitude.  It 
was  erected  in  1875  at  a cost  of  $140,000,  and  is  an  imposing  brick 
building,  three  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet  in  length,  and  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-six  in  width,  and  is  notable  for  its  great  height  and 
ponderous  arched  roof,  supported  by  colossal  iron  girders.  The  other 
markets  are  substantial  brick  buildings,  excellently  arranged,  and  of 
good  size. 


EIGHTH  AND  H STREETS  N.  W. , SHOWING  CALVARY  BAPTIST  CHURCH. 


262 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


There  are  three  regular  theatres  in  Washington  — Albaugh’s 
Grand  Opera  House,  the  New  National  Theatre,  and  Harris’  Bijou 
Opera  House.  In  addition,  there  are  theatres  in  which  variety  per- 
formances are  given,  and  summer  gardens  where  musical  entertain- 
ments are  the  rule.  The  prominent  halls  for  concerts  and  lectures 
are  the  Armory  of  the  Washington  Light  Infantry  Corps,  National 
Rifles’Hall,  Lincoln  Hall,  Masonic  Temple,  and  theGrand  Army  Hall. 

The  principal  hotels  are  the  Ebbitt  House,  Riggs’  House,  Wil- 
lard’s Hotel,  Arlington  Hotel,  Wormley’s  Hotel,  Metropolitan  Hotel, 
and  National  Hotel.  There  are  numerous  smaller  hotels  for  the  gen- 
eral public,  as  well  as  a number  of  what  are  called  family  hotels, 
many  of  which  are  very  elegant  in  their  appointments. 

Four  daily  newspapers  are  published — The  National  Republican 
and  The  Daily  Post  in  the  morning,  and  The  Star  and  The  Critic 
in  the  evening.  The  Post  and  the  Star  occupy  fine  buildings  of 
their  own.  There  are  six  Sunday  newspapers,  and  several  other 
weekly  publications. 

The  benevolent  institutions  of  the  city  are  numerous.  Among 
the  prominent  ones  is  the  National  Soldiers  and  Sailors  Orphan 
Home,  on  G Street,  between  Seventeenth  and  Eighteenth  streets 
northwest.  It  was  established  in  1866,  and  is  liberally  supported  b}' 
the  government.  Orphans  of  soldiers  and  sailors  in  the  Rebellion 
are  cared  for  and  educated  until  they  are  sixteen  years  old.  The 
institution  is  in  charge  of  a board  of  lady  managers,  and  is  open  to 
the  public  daily. 

The  Washington  Asylum  is  located  at  the  terminus  of  C Street 
southeast,  on  the  banks  of  the  Anacostia  River.  The  present  build- 
ing was  erected  in  1859.  asylum  for  the  paupers  of  the  Di.s- 

trict,  and  is  also  used  as  a work-house  for  persons  convicted  of  minor 
offenses. 

The  Freedmen’s  Hospital  occupies  the  square  between  Fifth,  Sev- 
enth, Boundary,  and  Pomeroy  streets.  It  has  accommodations  for 
two  hundred  patients.  It  is  supported  by  government  appropriations, 
and,  although  designed  for  freedmen,  all  classes  of  patients  are  re- 
ceived. 

Other  prominent  benevolent  institutions  are,  the  Garfield  Memorial 
Hospital,  at  the  head  of  Tentli  Street;  the  Providence  General  Hos- 
pital, corner  of  Second  and  D streets  southeast  ; the  City  Orphan 
Asylum,  corner  of  Fourteenth  and  S streets  northwest ; St.  Jolin’s 
Hospital,  on  II  Street,  between  Nineteenth  and  Twentieth  streets 


MASONS  AND  ODD  FELLOWS 


263 


northwest ; the  Co- 
lumbia Hospital  for 
Women,  corner  of  L 
and  Twenty-fifth 
streets  northwest; 
and  the  Home  for  the 
Aged,  corner  of  Third 
and  H streets  noith- 
east. 


SOULS 


In  the  District  of 
Columbia  there  are 
twenty  lodges  of  Ma- 
sons, with  a member- 
ship of  nearly  three 
thousand,  and  the 
order  is  in  a very 
prosperous  condition. 

The  Masonic  Temple 
in  Washington  is  an 
attractive  structure. 

It  is  situated  on  F 
Street,  corner  of  Ninth 
northwest,  and  was 
erected  in  1868  at  a 
cost  of  $200,000.  It 
is  of  granite  and  free- 
stone, and  is  four 
stories  in  height.  The 
first  floor  is  occupied 
by  stores,  and  the  sec- 
ond floor  contains  a hall  for  public  entertainments.  The  third  and 
fourth  floors  are  occupied  by  the  Masonic  lodges,  chapters,  and 
commanderies,  the  various  apartments  being  furnished  in  a magnifi- 
cent manner. 

The  Odd  Fellows’  building,  on  Seventh  Street,  between  D and  E 
streets  northwest,  was  originally  erected  in  1846,  but  was  thoroughly 
remodeled  in  1874,  and  now  is  a convenient  and  handsome  edifice. 
It  is  of  brick,  and  has  iron  pilasters  and  ornaments  painted  white. 
It  has  three  domes,  the  centre  one  rising  above  the  others.  On  the 


UNITARl.AN  CHURCH. 


264 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


front  of  the  building  is  a large  balcony.  Stores  occupy  the  ground 
floor,  and  on  the  second  floor  is  a public  hall.  The  lodge  and  en- 
campment rooms  are  on  the  third  floor,  and  are  finely  decorated  and 
furnished.  There  are  fourteen  lodges  and  four  encampments,  and 
the  order  numbers  about  eighteen  hundred  members,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing. 

At  the  foot  of  E Street  southeast,  is  the  Congressional  Cemetery, 
originally  called  “ Washington  Parish  Burial  Ground.’*  It  was  laid 
out  in  1807  by  residents  of  the  eastern  quarter  of  the  city,  and  after- 
ward came  under  the  control  of  Christ  Episcopal  Church.  As  the 
government  made  liberal  donations  of  money  and  land  to  the  ceme- 
tery, its  name  was  changed  to  “ Congressional,”  and  freestone  ceno- 
taphs were  erected  for  deceased  congressmen.  A large  vault  was 
erected  by  Congress  near  the  centre  of  the  grounds.  Among  the 
men  of  prominence  buried  here  are  Vice-President  George  Clinton, 
of  New  York  ; Elbridge  Gerry,  of  Massachusetts,  and  Tobias  Lear, 
for  many  years  the  private  secretary  and  intimate  companion  of 
George  Washington.  The  cemetery  contains  about  forty  acres,  and 
extends  alonu  the  Anacostia  River. 

Oak  Hill  Cemetery  is  situated  on  Georgetown  Heights,  and  is 
peculiarly  arranged  on  a series  of  terraces  rising  from  the  western 
bank  of  Rock  Creek.  It  is  unique  and  beautiful ; noble  oaks  cover 
its  ground,  and  exquisite  taste  has  been  used  in  its  adornment.  Here 
is  the  Van  Ness  mausoleum,  containing  the  remains  of  General  Van 
Ness  and  family.  Here  Lorenzo  Dow  is  buried,  and  here  also  John 
Howard  Payne  rests  at  last  in  his  native  land,  no  longer  an  exile 
from  the  “ Home,  sweet  home,”  he  sang  of  in  immortal  words. 

About  $340,000  is  annually  appropriated  for  the  police  force  of 
Washington.  The  force  is  known  as  the  Metropolitan  Police,  and 
consists  of  a superintendent  with  the  title  of  major,  who  receives  a 
salary  of  $2,600  ; a captain  at  $1,800,  two  lieutenant-inspectors  at 
$1,500  each,  ten  lieutenants  at  $1,320  each,  twenty  sergeants  at 
$1,140  each,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty-five  privates  at  salaries 
from  $900  to  $i  ,080.  There  are  also  seventeen  station-house  keepers 
who  are  paid  $720  each,  and  numerous  clerks,  messengers,  and 
laborers.  There  is  a mounted  force  of  twenty-seven  men.  Tlie 
police  duties  extend  throughout  the  District  of  Columbia. 

The  lire  department  is  sustained  at  a yearly  expenditure  of  $100,- 


THE  FIRE  DEPARTMENT,  ETC, 


265 


000.  There  are  eight  en- 
gines, and  other  fire  ap- 
paratus. The  chief  en- 
gineer has  a salary  of 
$1,800,  and  the  assistant 
engineer,  $1,400.  There 
is  a force  of  eighty-four 
men,  who  receive  from 
$720  to  $1,000  each. 

Connected  with  the  de- 
partment is  an  efficient 
telegraph  and  telephone 
service  in  charge  of  ex- 
pert electricians,  the  su- 
perintendent receiving  a 
salary  of  $1,600. 

The  white  military  or- 
ganizations are  the  Wash- 
ington Light  Infantry,  of 
four  companies,  the  In- 
fantry Cadets,  the  National 
Rifles,  the  Rifles  Cadets, 
the  Washington  Light 
Guard,  and  the  Union 
Veteran  Corps.  There 
are  three  companies  of 
colored  infantry,  and  the 
Capital  City  Guard,  con- 
sisting of  two  companies 
of  colored  men. 

Connecting  Washing- 
ton with  the  outer  world 
are  the  Baltimore  and 
Potomac,  and  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroads,  extending  from  New 
York  via  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  with  branches  south  and  west. 
In  the  depot  of  the  Baltimore  and  Potomac  Railroad,  President  Gar- 
field was  shot  by  Charles  J.  Guiteau  on  July  2,  1881.  On  the  wall, 
directly  above  the  spot  where  Garfield  fell,  the  railroad  company  has 
placed  a marble  tablet  as  a memorial  to  the  martyred  President. 
There  are  various  steamboat  lines  on  the  Potomac  River  to  southern 


GARFIELD  MEMORIAL  CHURCH. 


{^Christian  Disciples,') 


266 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ports.  The  city  has  five  distinct  street  railroad  companies,  whose 
lines  traverse  all  the  principal  sections. 

The  water  supply  of  Washington  is  obtained  from  above  the 
Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  and  the  aqueduct  which  conveys  it 
to  the  city  has  been  declared  “ a triumph  of  civil  engineering.” 
The  aqueduct  is  nearly  twelve  miles  in  length,  and  on  its  course 
passes  over  six  bridges  and  through  twelve  huge  tunnels.  The 
water  is  received  in  a reservoir  a short  distance  west  of  Georgetown, 
whence  it  is  conveyed  in  great  mains  to  Washington,  crossing  Rock 
Creek  by  an  aqueduct  bridge.  The  water-works  were  constructed 
at  a cost  of  about  ten  million  dollars. 


CHAPEL  AT  OAK  HILL  CEMETERY. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


THE  ENVIRONS  — HOWARD  UNIVERSITY  — COLUMBIAN  UNIVERSITY  — WAYLAND 
SEMINARY  — NATIONAL  DEAF  MUTE  COLLEGE  — GOVERNMENT  HOSPITAL 
FOR  THE  INSANE  — GEORGETOWN  — THE  COLLEGE  OF  THE  JESUITS  — GREAT 
FALLS  OF  THE  POTOMAC  — CHESAPEAKE  AND  OHIO  CANAL  — ARLINGTON — 
THE  GREAT  NATIONAL  MILITARY  CEMETERY  — ALEXANDRIA. 

The  environs  of  Washington  have  many  charming  scenes  and 
interesting  objects.  From  the  hills  encircling  the  city  one 
can  obtain  extended  views  of  the  District  and  the  two  neigh- 
boring states,  spreading  out  in  luxuriant  fields  and  woods ; 
of  the  Potomac,  curving  gracefully  to  the  southward ; and  of  the 
beautiful  capital  itself  lying  for  miles  along  a wide,  irregular  valley. 
On  one  of  these  bold  eminences  stands  Howard  University,  the  well- 
known  institution  for  the  higher  education  of  the  colored  race.  It 
has  a conspicuous  location  north  of  the  Capitol,  a short  distance 
above  the  boundary  line  of  the  city,  adjacent  to  the  Seventh  Street 
road,  and  is  on  a plateau  comprising  thirty-five  acres,  part  of  which 
is  laid  out  as  a park. 

The  university  was  established  by  special  act  of  Congress  in  1867, 
and  named  after  Gen.  Oliver  O.  Howard,  who  was  its  president  for 
six  years.  Although  more  especially  designed  for  colored  students, 
it  is  open  to  all,  without  distinction  of  race  or  sex,  and  among  its  in- 
structors and  students  are  white  and  colored  persons  of  both  sexes. 
There  are  four  hundred  students  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States, 
and  six  departments — theological,  medical,  law,  college,  normal,  and 
preparatory,  and  the  courses  are  from  two  to  four  years.  The  medi- 


268 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


cal  department  is  largely  attended,  the  classes  having  the  benefit  of 
clinical  instruction  in  the  Freedmen’s  Hospital.  There  is  an  able 
corps  of  instructors,  and  tuition  is  free  in  its  preparatory,  normal,  and 
college  departments,  and  very  low  in  the  others.  The  general  man- 
agement is  vested  in  a board  of  trustees.  Congress  yearly  makes  an 
appropriation  for  it. 

The  main  building  is  of  brick,  is  four  stories  in  height,  and  at- 
tractive in  design.  It  has  ample  accommodations  for  the  lecture  and 
recitation  rooms,  the  chapel,  the  library,  the  museum,  and  offices. 
The  library  has  8,000  volumes,  and  in  the  museum  are  valuable  col- 
lections of  minerals  and  curiosities.  On  the  grounds  are  two  large 
buildings  used  as  students’  dormitories,  one  known  as  Miner  Hall, 
and  the  other  as  Clark  Hall.  The  buildings  and  grounds  are  valued 
at  $600,000. 

Columbian  University  is  situated  on  Meridian  Hill,  near  the  north- 
ern terminus  of  Fourteenth  Street.  A new  college  building  is  to  be 
erected  in  the  city  on  the  corner  of  Fifteenth  and  H streets  northwest, 
which  will  be  occupied  probably  in  1888.  This  institution  was  estab- 
lished in  1822,  and  incorporated  as  a university  in  1873.  Besides  its 
collegiate  departments,  it  has  those  of  law  and  medicine.  It  is  under 
the  direction  of  the  Baptists,  has  many  students,  and  is  in  a prosper- 
ous condition. 

Wayland  Seminary,  which  was  established  in  1865  for  the  educa- 
tion of  colored  preachers,  is  located  near  Columbian  University.  It 
has  academic,  normal,  and  theological  departments,  and  is  supported 
by  contributions  received  by  the  American  Baptist  Home  Mission  So- 
ciety. It  occupies  a handsome  edifice,  erected  at  a cost  of  $35,000, 
and  has  accommodations  for  two  hundred  students. 

The  Columbia  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  situated  on 
Kendall  Green,  a plot  of  one  hundred  acres  near  the  northern  terminus 
of  Seventh  Street  east.  It  was  established  in  1857,  and  is  now  con- 
ducted under  government  auspices.  Here  the  deaf-mute  children  of 
the  District  of  Columbia,  and  those  whose  parents  are  connected  with 
the  army  and  navy,  receive  free  education.  Its  collegiate  branch, 
known  as  the  National  Deaf  Mute  College  (the  only  one  of  the  kind 
in  the  world),  was  established  in  1864.  Students  are  admitted  to 
this  college  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  It  has  numerous  instruct- 
ors, and  every  necessary  appliance  for  the  thorough  education  in  the 
higher  branches  of  the  unfortunate  class  for  which  it  was  designed. 


HOSPITAL  FOR  THE  INSANE. 


269 


ARLINGTON  HOUSE. 

{Formerly  Residence  of  Gen.  Robert  E,  Lee.) 

The  central  building  is  of  Gothic  architecture,  and  all  the  buildings 
are  spacious  and  conveniently  arranged. 

On  high  ground  on  the  south  side  of  the  Anacostia  River,  near 
the  point  Avhere  it  mingles  its  waters  with  the  Potomac,  is  the  Gov- 
ernment Hospital  for  the  Insane,  which  was  erected  in  1855,  at  a cost 
of  nearly  $1,000,000.  It  has  a commanding  site,  overlooking  the 
city  of  Washington,  and  from  its  grounds  the  finest  view  of  the  Capi- 
tol can  be  obtained,  the  majestic  edifice  showing  clearly  and  fully 
from  this  locality,  with  nothing  to  diminish  its  grandeur.  The  grounds 
are  four  hundred  and  nineteen  acres  in  extent,  and  the  building,  with 
its  buttresses  and  parapet,  has  been  likened  to  a great  feudal  castle. 


270 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


it  has  a four-storied  centre,  with  long  connecting  wings,  and  is  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  two  hundred  feet  in  width,  and 
has  nearly  six  hundred  apartments,  with  accommodations  for  one 
thousand  patients.  It  ranks  among  the  prominent  institutions  for  the 
insane  in  the  world.  The  insane  of  the  army  and  navy,  and  of  the 
District  of  Columbia,  are  treated  here. 

Georgetown,  or  West  Washington,  as  it  is  now  called,  was  in- 
corporated as  a town  in  1789.  It  is  situated  on  the  western  border 
of  Washington,  and  is  separated  from  it  by  Rock  Creek,  a narrow 
stream  spanned  by  three  bridges.  It  lies  as  the  base  and  along  the 
sides  of  steep  hills,  and  contains  many  old  family  mansions,  as  well 
as  many  modern  residences  of  people  doing  business  in  Washington. 
It  has  a number'of  fine  business  blocks,  and  several  large  churches 
and  school-houses.  The  most  important  edifice  is  the  Georgetown 
College,  or  College  of  the  Jesuits,  which  is  situated  on  the  crest  of  a 
hill  in  the  western  part  of  the  town,  its  grounds  covering  an  area  of 
one  hundred  and  seventy  acres,  comprising  heights  and  valleys  of 
rare  beauty. 

The  old  or  original  college  building  was  erected  in  1792,  and 
work  on  the  new  one  — a palatial  structure  — was  begun  in  1877. 
The  new  building  is  one  of  the  largest  devoted  to  college  purposes 
in  the  United  States,  and  is  of  the  type — the  Rhenish-Romanesque  — 
which  is  usually  selected  by  the  Jesuits  in  Europe  for  their  institu- 
tions of  learning.  The  material  is  gray  freestone,  finely  hewn  blue- 
stone,  and  blue  gneiss.  It  has  a high  central  tower,  and  several 
lesser  ones,  is  many  storied,  with  a bold,  deep  roof,  and  stands  out 
upon  the  bank  supporting  it  with  a grand  appearance. 

This  college  is  the  oldest  and  most  prominent  of  the  Jesuit  insti- 
tutions in  the  United  States,  and  came  into  existence  through  the 
efforts  of  the  Rt.  Rev.  John  Carroll,  the  first  Catholic  bishop  of  Bal- 
timore. It  began  its  work  in  an  humble  way,  and  in  1815  was 
raised  to  the  dignity  of  a university.  It  has  a large  number  of 
students,  mostly  from  the  South,  a learned  corps  of  instructors,  and 
bears  a high  reputation.  In  its  extensive  library  are  many  ancient 
and  rare  volumes,  and  sundry  relics  of  great  interest  and  value,  one 
being  the  dining-tahle  of  Lord  Baltimore,  around  which  he  and 
the  council  of  the  Maryland  Colony  have  often  sat  discussing  ques- 
tions of  state  over  the  walnuts  and  wine.  The  table  was  originally 


THE  GREAT  FALLS. 


271 


brought  from  England,  is  of  solid  mahogany,  and  of  enormous 
weight. 

The  Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  some  fourteen  miles  above  Wash- 
ington, possess  an  indescribable  grandeur.  The  Potomac  rises  in  a 
spur  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  and  several  streams  are  combined 
with  it  in  its  downward  course.  Forty-seven  miles  below  the  gap  at 
Harper’s  Ferry,  where  the  river  bursts  through  the  mountains,  are  the 
Great  Falls,  formed  by  the  waters  impetuously  forcing  a passage 
through  a stupendous  ridge  of  granite  which  here  restrains  the  cur- 
rent from  side  to  side.  The  river  gradually  narrows  as  it  approaches 
the  barrier,  until  it  is  only  about  three  hundred  feet  wide,  and  then 


NATIONAL  MILITARY  CEMETERY  AT  ARLINGTON. 


272 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


with  a mighty  effort  rushes  over  the  granite  walls,  making  a descent 
of  forty  feet  into  hollow  rocks.  It  then  continues  its  course  with 
amazing  velocity,  dropping  foot  by  foot  in  a series  of  cascades,  until 
its  “perpendicular  pitch”  is  eighty,  feet  in  a distance  of  about  two 
miles.  On  the  Virginia  shore  huge  masses  of  rock  stretch  upward 
for  seventy  feet,  and  on  the  Maryland  shore  are  ledges  and  boulders, 
over  which  the  waters  dash  in  great  billows  of  foam.  Ten  miles 
below  the  Great  Falls  are  the  Little  Falls,  a succession  of  rapids  with 
a total  descent  of  twenty  feet.  Leaving  these  rapids,  the  river  glides 
calmly  toward  Washington  with  nothing  to  obstruct  its  passage. 
The  scenery  around  the  Great  Falls  and  Little  Falls  is  very  wild  and 
picturesque.  Cabin  John  Bridge,  a notable  example  of  bridge  build- 
ing, crosses  the  river  between  the  two  series  of  falls.  It  conveys  the 
aqueduct  of  the  Washington  Water  Works.  It  is  four  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  long,  and  has  an  arch  of  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet, 
which  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  bridge  is  con- 
structed of  massive  granite  blocks,  and  cost  $237,000. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal,  by  means  of  which  immense 
quantities  of  coal  are  brought  to  Georgetown  from  the  mines  of  West 
Virginia  and  Maryland,  and  grain  and  produce  from  the  West,  ex- 
tends to  Cumberland,  Md.,  a distance  of  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
four  miles.  For  the  first  fifty  miles  from  Georgetown,  it  is  sixty  feet 
in  width ; then  it  has  an  average  width  of  fifty  feet  to  its  terminus, 
with  a depth  of  six  feet.  On  its  course  are  seventy-five  capacious 
locks,  eleven  aqueducts,  and  nearly  two  hundred  culverts.  Water  is 
supplied  to  it  from  the  Potomac  by  numerous  dams.  The  canal  was 
first  chartered  in  1784,  and  constructed  as  far  as  the  Great  Falls. 
In  1828  another  charter  was  obtained  from  Congress,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  extending  the  course  to  Pittsburg,  a total  distance  of  three 
hundred  and  sixty  miles.  Work  upon  the  extension  was  continued 
until  1841,  when  Cumberland  was  reached,  and,  for  various  reasons, 
it  was  made  the  terminus.  The  construction  was  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult, and  cost  $13,000,000.  Congress  appropriated  $1,000,000  for 
the  great  enterprise,  and  Washington  subscribed  $1,000,000,  Mary- 
land, $5,000,000,  and  Alexandria  and  Georgetown,  $250,000  each. 
From  Georgetown  a considerable  part  of  the  coal  and  produce  re- 
ceived by  the  canal  is  shipped  to  Soutliern  cities. 

At  the  Georgetown  canal  terminus  is  an  aqueduct  bridge,  1,446 


THE  NATIONAL  MILITARY  CEMETERY. 


273 


ALONG  THE  WHARVES  AT  GEORGETOWN. 

feet  long,  connecting  with  the  Virginia  shore,  which  carries  the  Alex- 
andria Canal  across  the  Potomac.  The  bridge  is  constructed  on 
huge  granite  piers  of  sufficient  strength  to  resist  the  shock  of  the 
masses  of  ice  which  come  sweeping  down  the  river  in  the  early 
spring.  The  canal  was  incorporated  in  1830. 

Crossing  the  aqueduct  bridge  on  to  the  soil  of  Virginia,  a drive 
of  a mile  southerly  will  bring  one  to  the  National  Military  Cemetery 
at  Arlington — a vast  field  of  the  Nation’s  dead.  Here,  under  the 
shade  of  noble  oaks,  are  buried  16,264  soldiers  of  the  Rebellion, 
their  last  resting-place  graciously  cared  for  by  the  government  they 
died  in  defence  of.  The  cemetery  covers  two  hundred  acres  on  Ar- 
lington Heights,  which  rise  two  hundred  feet  above  the  Potomac 
River,  and  command  a fine  prospect.  It  has  an  eastern  frontage  of 
3,500  feet  on  the  Alexandria  turnpike,  and  extends  westward  for 
nearly  one-half  mile.  A handsome  rubble-stone  wall  encloses  the 
grounds,  and  near  the  southern  end  of  the  front  is  the  main  entrance, 
over  the  gateway  of  which  is  a large  arch  formed  of  marble  pillars 
from  the  portico  of  the  old  War  Department  Building.  The  larger 
portion  of  the  burials  are  made  in  the  southwest  section  of  the  cem- 
etery, which  is  very  nearly  a level  plateau  covered  with  groves  of 


18 


274 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ancient  trees.  The  graves  are  arranged  in  long  parallel  rows,  and 
each  grave  of  the  11,915  soldiers  who  were  known,  bears  a small, 
white  marble  head-stone  inscribed  with  the  name,  company,  regiment, 
and  date  of  death.  The  graves  of  the  4,349  unknown  soldiers  who 
lie  here  are  suitably  inscribed.  These  burial-fields  have  a calm, 
mournful  beauty ; there  is  no  sound  save  the  song  of  birds  and  the 
wind  sighing  through  the  lofty  trees,  and  one  can  imagine  the  long 
lines  of  white  head-stones  to  be  a vast,  silent  encampment — an  en- 
campment indeed,  waiting  the  final  order  of  the  Great  Commander. 

The  main  avenue  passes  by  the  side  of  an  extensive  garden,  and 
between  the  avenue  and  the  garden  are  forty-five  graves  of  Union 
officers.  To  the  west  of  the  garden  is  a large  vault  containing  the 
remains  of  2,211  unknown  Union  soldiers  gathered  after  the  war 
from  various  battle-fields.  Over  the  vault  is  a massive  granite  sar- 
cophagus surrounded  by  four  field-pieces  on  their  carriages,  with  piles 
of  cannon-balls  between  them.  Here  and  there  on  the  borders  of 
the  burial-fields  iron  frames  are  placed,  each  one  bearing  a poetic 
inscription  in  large  letters.  The  following  are  some  of  the  inscrip- 
tions : 

“ No  rumor  of  the  foe’s  advance 
Now  sweeps  upon  the  wind, 

No  troubled  thoughts  at  midnight  haunts 
Of  loved  ones  left  behind.” 


“ The  neighing  troop,  the  flashing  blade, 
The  bugle’s  stirring  blast. 

The  charge,  the  dreadful  cannonade. 
The  din  and  shout  are  past.” 


“ Rest  on,  embalmed  and  sainted  dead, 
Dear  as  the  blood  ^’e  gave  : 

No  impious  footstep  here  shall  tread 
The  herbage  of  jour  grave.” 


“ No  vision  of  the  morrow’s  strife 
The  warrior’s  dream  alarms  : 

No  brajing  horn,  no  screaming  fife. 
At  dawn  shall  call  to  arms.” 


THE  NATIONAL  MILITARY  CEMETERY 


275 


“The  muffled  drum’s  sad  roll  has  beat 
The  soldier’s  last  tattoo; 

No  more  on  life’s  parade  shall  meet 
That  brave  and  fallen  few.” 


“ Your  own  proud  land’s  heroic  soil 
Must  be  jour  fitter  grave; 

She  claims  from  war  his  richest  spoil, 

The  ashes  of  the  brave.” 

The  entire  Arlington  estate  consists  of  1,160  acres.  It  was  origi- 
nally part  of  the  vast  landed  possessions  of  Edmund  Scarburgh,  who 
was  surveyor-general  of  Virginia  in  the  early  colonial  period.  Later 
it  came  into  the  possession  of  John  Custis,  a wealthy  planter,  whose 
only  son,  Daniel  Parke  Custis,  married  “the  beauty  and  belle  ol 
Williamsburg,”  Martha  Dandridge,  and  inherited  the  estate.  Martha 


THE  COLLEGE  OF  THE  JESUITS,  AT  GEORGETOWN. 


276 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


Dandridge  Custis,  after  a few  years  of  happy  married  life,  was  left  a 
widow  with  two  children,  and  in  1759  wedded  to  George  Wash- 
ington, then  a colonel  in  the  Virginia  militia.  The  widow  Custis 
“ was  fair  to  behold,  of  fascinating  manners,  and  splendidly  endowed 
with  worldly  benefits.”  She  held  the  Arlington  property  for  her  son, 
and  eventually  her  grandson,  George  Washington  Parke  Custis,  be- 
came the  owner  of  it.  He  erected  the  fine  mansion  now  standing 
on  the  eastern  portion  of  the  grounds,  and  lived  in  it  until  his  death, 
in  1857.  Arlington  passed  to  his  daughter,  Mrs.  Lee,  the  wife  of 
Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee,  for  life,  and  afterward  was  to  descend  to  her 
son,  George  Washington  Custis  Lee.  The  Lee  family  lived  on  the 
estate  until  the  beginning  of  the  Rebellion,  leaving  it  forever  in  April, 
1861,  when  General  Lee  removed  to  Richmond. 

The  United  States  took  possession  of  the  estate  soon  after  the  war 
began,  and  under  the  direct  tax  act  of  1862  a tax  was  assessed 
against  it.  As  the  tax  was  not  paid,  a sale  was  ordered,  and  Presi- 
dent Lincoln  directed  that  the  estate  should  be  bid  in  for  the  use  of  the 
government,  which  was  accordingly  done.  It  was  decided  to  take 
part  of  the  land  for  a military  cemetery,  and  the  first  interments  were 
made  in  May,  1864.  Arlington  was  subsequently  claimed  by  George 
Washington  Custis  Lee,  on  the  ground  that  the  tax  sale  was  defec- 
tive, as  a tender  of  the  tax  might  have  been  made  but  for  a rule  of 
the  tax  commissioners  which  required  that  the  tender  should  be  made 
in  person.  He  brought  a suit  of  ejectment  against  the  United  States 
officers  in  charge  of  the  estate,  and  judgment  was  given  in  his  favor. 
A writ  of  error  was  taken  to  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States, 
which  court  affirmed  his  judgment.  He  then  offered  the  estate  to 
the  government  for  the  sum  of  $150,000,  which  offer  was  accepted 
by  Congress,  and  Arlington  is  now  in  undisputed  possession  of  the 
Nation. 

Arlington  House  consists  of  a large  centre  building  with  two 
wings,  the  whole  having  a frontage  of  one  hundred  and  forty  feet. 
It  is  constructed  of  brick  covered  with  stucco,  resembling  freestone. 
There  is  a central  portico,  the  pediment  of  which  is  supported  by 
eight  ponderous  columns.  The  house  is  occupied  by  the  superintend- 
ent of  the  cemetery,  and  the  lower  story  can  be  inspected  by  visitors. 

About  seven  miles  from  Washington,  down  the  Potomac,  is  the 
ancient  city  of  Alexandria,  which  was  founded  in  1748,  and  for 


THE  CITY  OF  ALEXANDRIA. 


277 


HOWARD  UNIVERSITY. 


some  years  was  called  Bellhaven.  In  its  early  days  it  was  a thriving 
port  and  had  a large  foreign  trade.  The  Virginia  planters  shipped 
great  quantities  of  tobacco  and  flour  from  its  wharves,  and  received 
supplies  for  their  plantations.  Its  warehouses,  most  of  which  are 
now  empty  and  dilapidated,  were  then  filled  with  goods,  and  for  a 
time  it  was  an  important  commercial  rival  of  Baltimore.  So  thrifty 
and  enterprising  was  the  town,  so  promising  seemed  its  future,  that  it 
was  even  proposed  to  locate  the  national  capital  in  it.  But  the  prom- 
ise of  its  youth  was  never  fulfilled,  and  to-day  it  is  chiefly  notable  for 
what  “ might  have  been.” 

The  city  lies  on  the  sides  of  a range  of  hills,  and  is  in  the  centre 
of  a fertile  agricultural  district.  It  has  nearly  fifteen  thousand  inhab- 
itants, one-third  of  whom  are  colored.  The  city  hall  is  in  a fine 
building  used  in  part  as  a public  market,  and  there  are  a number  of 
large  business  structures.  An  object  of  interest  is  Christ  Episcopal 
Church,  erected  in  1765,  which  was  attended  by  General  Washington, 
who  was  a member  of  its  vestry. 


MOUKT  VERNON,  FROM  THE  POTOMAC  RIVER, 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


MOUNT  VERNON  — PRESENT  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  VENERATED  HOME  OF 
GEORGE  WASHINGTON  — THE  GROUNDS  AND  MANSION  — WASHINGTON’S 
TOMB— THE  CHAMBER  IN  WHICH  HE  DIED  — APARTMENTS  OF  THE  MANSION 
— THE  FIRST  PRESIDENT’S  LIFE  ON  HIS  VIRGINIA  PLANTATION  — HOW  THE 
MOUNT  VERNON  ASSOCIATION  ACQUIRED  THE  HISTORIC  PROPERTY. 

WHILE  the  homes  of  most  of  the  illustrious  men  who 
founded  the  American  Republic  have  been  suffered  to 
decay,  and  finally  to  disappear  from  the  earth,  the  home 
of  George  Washington  has  been  fortunately  preserved. 
That  home  to  which  he  brought  his  lovely  bride  in  the  blithesome 
days  of  youth  — those  days  of  pleasant  company,  of  country  merry- 
makings, of  riding  to  hounds,  and  the  sports  of  the  field,  of  sweet 
domestic  bliss  ; that  home  whence  he  departed  to  fight  the  battles  for 
his  country’s  freedom  and  independence,  and  to  which  he  returned 
crowned  with  more  than  the  laurels  of  Miltiades  ; that  home  whence 
again  he  departed  to  guide  the  Ship  of  State  on  its  untried  course,  and 
to  which  he  returned  when  he  had  relinquished  his  great  office,  never 
more  to  depart  from  until  death  claimed  him  — that  beautiful  Mount 
Vernon  is  to-day  in  almost  as  substantial  a condition  as  it  was  when 
the  First  President  sat  under  the  venerable  trees,  or  walked  the  broad 
piazza  of  the  commodious  mansion  a hundred  years  ago. 

This  cherished  spot,  the  home  of  Washington,  is  situated  on 
the  western  bank  of  the  Potomac  River,  in  Fairfax  County,  Vir- 
ginia, and  is  sixteen  miles  from  the  city  that  bears  his  name. 
The  steamer  “ W.  W.  Corcoran,”  Capt.  L.  L.  Blake,  makes  daily 
trips,  leaving  Seventh  Street  Wharf  at  lo  o’clock,  a.  m.,  and  re- 
turning at  3.30  o’clock,  p.  M.,  and  visitors  are  permitted  to  ex- 
plore all  portions  of  the  historic  estate,  and  to  wander  at  will 
over  the  mansion.  The  association  in  whose  charge  it  is  provides 


28o 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


a guide,  and  the  various  objects  of  interest  are  explained  in  an 
intelligent  manner.  Thousands  of  people  from  every  section  of  the 
United  States,  and  even  from  foreign  lands,  visit  Mount  Vernon 
yearly.  In  1876,  the  centennial  year,  there  were  forty-five  thousand 
visitors.  As  the  river  steamers  approach  the  hallowed  grounds 
they  slacken  speed,  toll  their  bells,  and  go  “ slowly  sailing,  slowly 
sailing,  past  the  tomb  of  Washington.” 

The  Mount  Vernon  mansion  stands  near  the  brow  of  a sloping 
hill  which  rises  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet  above  the  river, 
and  can  be  seen  from  a great  distance.  A spacious  lawn  extending 
to  the  river,  and  majestic  trees,  give  it  a setting  of  rare  beauty.  At 
this  point  the  Potomac  is  two  miles  in  width,  and  its  course  is  west- 
erly until  it  borders  the  estate ; then  it  makes  a sudden,  sweeping 
bend  to  the  southward,  displaying  a long  stretch  of  glittering  waters. 
The  mansion  overlooks  the  river  as  it  flows  south,  and  the  thickly 
wooded  Maryland  hills  on  the  opposite  bank,  for  many  miles,  and 
the  prospect  from  its  piazza  and  upper  windows  is  most  charming  and 
picturesque.  The  grounds  adjacent  to  the  mansion  are  covered  with 
an  extensive  variety  of  shade-trees,  most  of  which  were  planted  by 
Washington,  and  many  of  them  have  remarkably  luxuriant  foliage, 
In  one  flourishing  thicket  are  hemlocks,  lindens,  chestnuts,  and 
beeches,  all  of  which  Washington  planted  when  a young  man,  and 
carefully  nourished.  The  estate  in  his  time  comprised  eight  thousand 
acres  — a princely  domain,  even  in  those  days  of  vast  landed  posses- 
sions. More  than  one-half  of  it  was  wood  land,  and  the  remainder 
was  divided  into  five  farms  tilled  by  several  hundred  negroes.  Each 
farm  was  devoted  to  special  crops,  the  principal  ones  being  wheat, 
Indian  corn,  and  tobacco,  and  was  in  charge  of  an  overseer  who  made 
weekly  report  to  a general  superintendent,  who  in  turn  reported  to 
Washington.  After  the  death  of  Washington  the  lands  were  sold  by 
his  heirs,  from  time  to  time,  nothing  being  retained  except  the  home- 
stead or  “mansion-house  farm,”  which  now  consists  of  two  hundred 
acres. 

Around  the  mansion  is  a lawn  of  ten  acres,  laid  out  in  the  olden 
style  of  English  landscape  gardening,  and  on  one  side  is  an  orchard 
of  about  twenty  acres,  filled  with  peach,  nectarine,  apricot,  plum, 
cherry,  and  apple  trees.  Twenty  acres  are  devoted  to  grains  and 
vegetables,  and  the  remainder  are  wood  and  pasture  lands.  The 
farm  is  considered  one  of  the  best  in  that  section  of  Virginia,  and  is 
very  skillfully  managed  by  its  superintendent.  Adjacent  to  it  quite 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


281 


THE  MANSION  HOUSE  AT  MOUNT  VERNON. 


a village  has  grown  up,  and  a post-office  for  the  residents  is  located 
on  the  Mount  Vernon  grounds. 

The  main  portion  of  the  wharf  at  the  river-landing  was  con- 
structed by  Washington,  but  within  a few  years  additions  have  been 
made.  Here  vessels  were  laden  with  great  quantities  of  tobacco, 
and  also  with  flour  ground  in  the  Mount  Vernon  mill,  each  barrel 
bearing  the  widely-known  brand,  “ George  Washington,  Mount 
Vernon.”  The  old  flour-mill  is  located  about  three  miles  from  the 
landing,  but  it  is  now  only  a heap  of  ruins.  A short  distance  above 
the  wharf,  on  the  path  to  the  mansion,  is  the  decaying  stump  of 
the  once  magnificent  and  famous  “ Washington  Oak,  ” in  the  grate- 
ful shade  of  which  the  illustrious  farmer  was  accustomed  to  rest 


282 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


when  returning  from  directing  his  shipments.  The  tree  was  twelve 
feet  in  circumference,  and  was  supposed  to  be  more  than  two  hun- 
dred years  old.  It  was  blown  down  during  a severe  storm  on  the 
8th  of  August,  1882.  Pieces  of  it  have  been  taken  as  relics  to  most 
every  part  of  the  world. 

The  mansion  fronts  to  the  northwest,  and  that  portion  of  it  seen 
from  the  river  is  the  rear,  or,  as  it  may  be  called,  the  southeastern 
front.  It  is  constructed  of  wood,  cut  m blocks  and  painted  in  imita- 
tion of  stone,  is  ninety-six  feet  in  length  and  thirty  feet  in  width,  and 
has  colonnades  at  its  sides.  It  has  two  stories  and  an  attic  with  dor- 
mer windows,  and  on  its  peaked  roof  is  an  octagonal  cupola  crowned 
with  an  ancient  weather-cock.  On  the  river  front  is  a piazza  extend- 
ing the  entire  length  of  the  mansion,  and  which  is  fifteen  feet  wide 
and  twenty-five  feet  high,  with  a roof  supported  by  eight  pillars  and 
surmounted  by  an  ornamental  balustrade.  The  piazza  has  a paving 
of  well-worn  flag-stones  imported  from  the  Isle  of  Wight.  When  the 
weather  in  winter  prevented  Washington  from  taking  his  habitual 
horse-back  rides  over  the  plantations,  he  would  frequently  walk  on 
this  piazza  for  an  hour  or  two  at  a time.  The  central  portion  of  the 
mansion  was  built  by  Lawrence  Washington,  the  half-brother  of  the 
General,  and  the  first  to  reside  on  the  “Hunting  Creek  Estate,”  as 
Mount  Vernon  was  then  called.  When  the  estate  descended  to 
George  Washington  he  re-named  it  in  honor  of  Admiral  Edward 
Vernon,  of  the  British  Navy,  in  whose  fleet  Lawrence  Washington 
had  performed  service  in  the  West  Indies.  After  the  Revolutionary 
War  he  added  north  and  south  extensions  to  the  mansion,  thoroughly 
refitted  its  rooms,  erected  out-buildings,  and  greatly  improved  the 
estate. 

Extending  from  the  northwestern  front  of  the  mansion  is  a half- 
mile  circular  drive-wav,  which  terminates  at  an  arched  gate  opening 
into  the  high  road.  In  1759,  a few  weeks  after  their  marriage, 
Washington  brought  his  wife  through  this  gate  to  her  future  home  ; 
and  in  1799,  forty  years  afterward,  his  funeral  cortege  solemnly  passed 
through  it.  On  the  line  of  the  drive-way  is  a luxuriant  flower-garden 
and  a new  conservatory,  and  the  ruins  of  the  original  brick  con- 
servatory, constructed  by  Washington,  wliich  was  destroyed  by  fire 
on  Dec.  16,  1835.  There  are  also  the  old  brick  “ cook-house,” 
or  family  kitchen,  in  which  the  food  for  the  family  was  prepared  ; 
the  butler’s  house,  and  servants’  quarters.  On  the  south  is  a barn 
with  a long  slanting  roof,  erected  by  Lawrence  Washington  in  i733< 
of  English  brick.  The  mansion  and  out-buildings  appear  in  a good 


MOUNT  VERNON.  283 

state  of  preservation,  and,  as  great  care  is  taken  of  them,  are  likely 
to  stand  for  many  more  years. 

A few  3'^ards  from  the  mansion,  down  the  sloping  southern  bank,  is 
the  old  family  tomb  in  which  the  body  of  Washington  was  deposited 
for  nearly  thirty-one  yea,rs,  or  until  the  new  tomb  was  constructed. 
It  has  recently  been  restored,  and  made  to  look  as  it  is  believed  to 
have  appeared  in  former  years.  Here  the  bodies  of  Washington 
and  his  wife,  and  those  of  other  members  of  the  family,  rested  until 
April  19th,  1831,  when  they  were  conveyed  to  the  new  tomb. 
In  1825,  when  General  Lafa^^ette  made  his  last  visit  to  Mount 
Vernon,  he  went  into  this  old  vault,  and  lovingly  kissed  the  coffin  of 
the  hero  who  had  been  almost  as  a father  to  him  in  his  }’outh. 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


284 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


The  present  tomb  of  Washington  is  situated  on  the  road  from  the 
river-landing,  a short  distance  south  of  the  mansion.  In  his  will 
Washington  stated  that  “ the  family  vault  at  Mount  Vernon  requiring 
repairs,  and  being  improperly  situated,  I desire  that  a new  one,  of 
brick,  and  upon  a larger  scale,  may  be  built  at  the  foot  of  what  is 
called  the  Vineyard  Inclosure,  on  the  ground  which  is  marked  out, 
in  which  my  remains  and  those  of  my  deceased  relatives  (now  in  the 
old  vault) , and  such  others  of  my  family  as  may  choose  to  be  en- 
tombed there,  may  be  deposited.”  But  his  heirs,  strangely  tardy, 
allowed  more  than  thirty  years  to  pass  away  before  they  erected  the 
new  tomb. 

The  tomb  consists  of  a large  vault,  extending  into  a bank  in  a 
thickly  wooded  dell.  It  is  enclosed  by  a brick  structure  with  a high, 
arched  entrance,  in  which  is  a gate  fashioned  of  iron  bars.  Within 
the  enclosure,  and  plainly  to  be  seen  through  the  gate,  is  a massive 
marble  sarcophagus,  impenetrably  sealed,  containing  the  coffin  of 
Washington,  and  bearing  on  its  top  only  the  coat  of  arms  of  the 
United  States  upon  a draped  flag,  and  the  name,  “Washington.”  At 
the  side  of  this  sarcophagus  is  another,  similar  in  construction,  which 
contains  the  coffin  of  Mrs.  Washington,  and  which  is  inscribed: 
“ Martha,  consort  of  Washington.  Died  May  21st,  1801  ; aged  71 
years.”  Above  the  door  of  the  tomb  are  the  words  : “ Within  this  en- 
closure rest  the  remains  of  Gen.  George  Washington.”  The  sarcoph- 
agi are  covered  with  choice  flowers,  which  are  continually  renewed. 

The  vault  at  the  rear  of  the  enclosure  contains  the  remains  of 
Judge  Bushrod  Washington,  and  other  members  of  the  Washington 
family.  It  is  closed  with  a solid  iron  door,  over  which  is  inscribed  : 
“ I am  the  Resurrection  and  the  Life.  He  that  believeth  in  Me, 
though  he  were  dead,  yet  shall  he  live.”  In  front  of  the  tomb  are 
two  marble  monuments  erected  in  memory  of  Judge  Washington,  and 
John  Augustine  Washington. 

In  a small  room  in  the  second  story  of  the  Mount  Vernon  mansion 
which  he  had  used  for  a bed-chamber  for  many  years,  the  Father  of 
His  Country  died  on  the  14th  of  December,  1799,  between  the  hours 
of  ten  and  eleven  at  night.  After  his  death  the  room  was  closed  for  a 
long  time.  The  bedstead  on  which  he  lay  in  his  last  hours  has  been 
preserved,  and  the  room  is  now  arranged  in  much  the  same  manner  as 
it  was  on  that  sorrowful  night.  The  bedstead  is  of  mahogany,  dark 
with  age,  is  six  feet  square,  and  has  four  high  posts.  It  was  manu- 
factured in  New  York  in  1789,  and  was  used  by  Washington  during 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


285 


the  eight  years  he  served  as  President.  It  stands  between  two  long 
windows  opening  on  to  a balcony  from  which  a delightful  view  of  the 
Potomac  can  be  obtained.  The  room  has  a spacious  fire-place,  in 
which  are  the  andirons  in  use  on  the  night  of  Washington’s  death. 
Several  small  pieces  of  furniture  then  in  the  room  also  have  been  pre- 
served. There  is  a closet  containing  various  articles  of  the  great 
soldier’s  campaigns,  and  placed  here  and  there  are  other  mementoes. 

After  her  husband’s  death,  Martha  Washington  occupied  a room 
in  the  attic,  from  the  narrow  dormer-window  of  which  she  could  view 
the  old  tomb.  The  tradition  is  that  she  never  left  this  room  during 
the  eighteen  months  of  her  widowhood,  and  that  she  would  see  no 
one  except  her  two  grandchildren  and  a favorite  serving-woman.  This 
gracious  gentlewoman  is  said  to  have  spent  the  time  in  gazing  at  the 
tomb  containing  her  husband’s  body,  and  in  lamenting  her  loss.  For 
forty  years  man  and  wife,  loving,  tender,  and  true,  the  peerless  couple 
were  not  long  separated  by  death.  Mrs.  Washington’s  room  now  con- 
tains but  one  article  of  furniture  she  used  — a mahogany  wash-stand  ; 
but  the  bed,  the  bed-hangings,  the  carpet,  etc.,  have  been  carefully 
reproduced  in  close  imitation  of  the  originals. 

The  interior  of  the  mansion  is  constructed  in  a strong  yet  ele- 
gant manner.  It  is  wainscoted  in  the  style  prevailing  at  that 
period,  and  has  elaborately  carved  cornices,  and  heavy  shafts.  It 
is  nearly  as  substantial  as  it  was  when  occupied  by  the  Washing- 
ton family,  the  decaying  parts  having  been  thoroughly  repaired 
within  a few  years.  A wide  central  hall  extends  from  the  front 
door  to  the  rear,  and  there  is  a spacious  staircase  to  the  story 
above.  On  the  front  door  is  the  huge  brass  knocker  used  by  the 
guests  of  Washington  to  announce  their  arrival.  A prominent 
object  in  the  hall  is  the  Key  of  the  Bastile,  presented  to  Wash- 
ington by  Lafayette  in  1789,  soon  after  the  famous  French  prison 
was  destroyed.  There  are  six  apartments  on  the  ground  floor, 
namely  : the  banquet-hall,  the  music-room,  the  west  parlor,  the  family 
dining-room,  Martha  Washington’s  sitting-room,  and  the  library- 
room.  The  Mount  Vernon  Association  has  furnished  the  rooms  with 
ancient  pictures,  tables  and  chairs,  and  other  articles,  some  of  which 
were  the  property  of  Washington. 

The  banquet-hall,  or  the  state-parlor,  as  it  was  frequently  called, 
is  a fine  large  apartment  in  the  north  extension,  which  in  its  day  was 
richly  adorned  and  furnished.  It  has  a high  ceiling  with  designs  in 
stucco,  and  its  walls  are  painted  gray  and  have  a wide  frieze.  At 


286 


PICTURESQ_UE  WASHINGTON. 


THE  OLD  TOMB  AT  MOUNT  VERNON,  BEl'OKE  THE  RECENT  RESTORATION. 

one  side  is  a fire-place,  around  which  is  a beautifully  carved  mantel  of 
Carrara  marble,  wrought  in  Italy,  it  is  supposed  by  Canova.  It  has 
three  panels  in  which  are  scenes  of  agricultural  life.  It  was  presented 
to  Washington  by  an  English  gentleman,  and  it  is  related  that  the 
vessel  bringing  it  to  the  United  States  was  captured  by  pirates.  When 
they  learned  that  the  mantel  was  intended  for  Washington  they  for- 
warded it  to  him  uninjured.  Extending  across  the  western  end  of 
the  apartment  is  a colossal  painting  by  Rembrandt  Peale,  entitled 
“ Washington  at  Yorktown,”  which  was  presented  to  the  Mount  Ver- 
non Association  in  1873.  In  a glass  case  is  a model  of  the  Bastile, 
the  gift  of  Lafayette  ; and  in  the  apartment  is  also  the  celebrated 
arm-chair  which  “ came  over  in  the  ‘ Mayflower.’”  In  this  old  slat- 
back  oaken  chair  more  than  100,000  visitors  to  Mount  Vernon  have 
sat.  One  short  sitting  is  usually  enough,  as  the  chair  is  very  hard 
and  uncomfortable.  Several  pieces  of  antique  furniture,  portraits, 


MOUNT  VERNON, 


287 


THE  TOMB  OF  WASHINGTON,  MOUNT  VERNON. 


and  the  military  equipments  used  by  Washington  while  serving  in 
General  Braddock’s  army,  are  disposed  about  the  apartment. 

In  this  grand  hall  Washington  gave  his  state  dinners  when  enter- 
taining the  distinguished  men  and  women  who  visited  him  ; and  many 
a brilliant  reception,  followed  by  a ball,  also  has  been  held  here  by 
Martha  Washington.  If  the  old  walls  could  speak,  what  interesting 
tales  they  might  tell  of  the  scenes  they  have  enclosed  — the  entertain- 
ment of  Lafayette,  Rochambeau,  and  the  French  officers;  of  the 
illustrious  American  generals  of  the  Revolution  ; of  Franklin,  of  Jef- 
ferson, of  Hamilton ; of  the  heroic  men  and  the  stately  dames  of  the 
Old  Dominion  in  those  far-off  days  when  the  mansion  was  bright 
and  cheerful  with  the  highest  social  life. 

There  still  remains  in  the  music-room  the  harpsichord  Washing- 


288 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


ton  gave  his  charming  adopted  daughter,  Eleanor  Parke  Custis,  on 
her  wedding-day.  It  is  a fine  instrument,  with  two  banks  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty  keys,  and  cost  $i,ooo.  The  furnishing  of  this 
room  is  a faithful  reproduction. 

The  library  is  a square  room  in  the  south  extension,  with  windows 
opening  on  to  the  portico.  It  has  a large  fire-place  with  a wide 
hearth-stone,  and  on  three  sides  are  many  small  closets,  some  of  them 
mere  panels,  in  which  silver-plate  and  china,  valuable  papers,  etc., 
were  kept.  When  it  was  used  by  Washington  it  contained  numerous 
fire-arms,  swords,  and  military  accoutrements,  and  his  private  collec- 
tion of  books.  These  books  were  all  stamped  with  his  book-plate, 
and  also  bore  his  autograph.  Many  of  them  were  purchased  in 
1849  by  the  Boston  Athenaeum.  Here  Washington  was  accustomed 
to  sit  in  the  afternoon,  attending  to  his  correspondence  and  business 
affairs,  and  often  of  a winter  evening  the  family  gathered  around  the 
glowing  fire-place.  None  of  the  original  furniture  is  now  here. 

In  the  second  story,  and  in  the  attic,  are  numerous  chambers  fur- 
nished by  the  Mount  Vernon  Association  with  antique  articles  and 
revolutionary  relics,  and  mostly  named  after  different  states.  The 
one  known  as  “ Lafayette’s  room,”  at  the  head  of  the  first  landing, 
was  always  occupied  by  the  gallant  Frenchman  whenever  he  passed 
a night  at  Mount  Vernon.  The  only  original  piece  of  furniture  it 
now  contains  is  the  bureau,  but  it  has  been  reproduced  nearly  as  it 
was  when  he  used  it.  Near  this  room  is  the  one  occupied  by  Miss 
Custis,  all  the  furniture  of  which  , is  a reproduction.  One  of  the 
rooms  has  a case  of  relics  of  Washington. 

The  mansion  contains  little  of  the  original  furniture,  from  the  fact 
that  there  was  a sale  by  the  heirs  of  the  entire  household  effects,  not 
disposed  of  by  will,  soon  after  the  death  of  Mrs.  Washington.  The 
most  notable  articles  were  purchased  by  George  Washington  Parke 
Custis,  and  taken  to  his  mansion  at  Arlington,  but  a good  part  of  the 
ordinary  furniture  was  scattered  throughout  Virginia  and  Maryland, 
and  is  doubtless  now  in  the  possession  of  old  families  in  those  states. 
Mr.  Custis  presented  a number  of  relics  to  the  government,  some  of 
which  are  in  the  National  Museum,  and  those  he  retained  were  in- 
herited by  his  daughter,  Mrs.  Lee.  When  the  Lee  family  departed 
from  Arlington  at  the  beginning  of  the  Civil  War,  they  had  the  val- 
ued memorials  conveyed  to  a place  of  safety.  Afterward,  members 
of  the  Lee  and  Lewis  families  contributed  the  Washington  articles 
at  present  in  the  Mount  Vernon  mansion. 

The  title  to  the  Mount  Vernon  estate  originated  from  a patent 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


289 


issued  by  Lord  Culpepper  in  1670,  to  John  Washington,  the  founder 
of  the  Washington  family  in  America.  He  was  of  English  parent- 
age, and  had  settled  in  Virginia  in  1657.  His  son,  Augustine,  mar- 
ried two  wives  : the  first,  Jane  Butler,  bearing  two  sons,  Lawrence  and 
Augustine  ; and  the  second,  Mary  Ball,  a member  of  one  of  the 
prominent  families  of  Virginia,  bearing  five  children,  of  whom  George 
Washington  was  the  oldest.  At  the  death  of  the  father  in  1743, 
Mount  Vernon  descended  to  Lawrence  Washington,  and  at  his  death 
to  his  only  child,  an  infant  daughter;  George  Washington  was  the 
guardian  of  this  child,  and  at  its  death  he  inherited  the  estate.  He 
was  born  Feb.  22,  1732,  and  when  he  had  barely  reached  his 
twenty-first  year,  became  the  owner  of  Mount  Vernon,  and  also  of  a 
fine  estate  on  the  Rappahannock,  and  took  a position  among  the  opu- 
lent landholders  of  the  Old  Dominion. 

Until  1758,  when  he  closed  his  service  with  General  Braddock, 
Washington  was  constantly  engaged  in  military  campaigns,  and 
passed  but  little  time  on  his  plantation.  When  the  young  soldier  was 
freed  from  the  toilsome  duty  of  camp  and  field,  he  became  a member 
of  the  Virginia  House  of  Burgesses,  and  for  a number  of  years  per- 
formed legislative  work.  On  Jan.  17,  1759,  married  to  Martha 

Dandridge  Custis,  a widow  with  two  children.  She  was  young,  beau- 
tiful, and  accomplished,  and  the  possessor  of  $75,000  in  her  own 
right,  as  well  as  the  guardian  of  a large  fortune  for  her  children. 
Then  began  a gladsome  domestic  life  at  Mount  Vernon,  extending 
through  sixteen  tranquil  years  — Washington  as  the  lover  and  atten- 
tive husband,  as  the  farmer  profitably  engaged  in  crops,  as  the  fox- 
hunter  and  fisherman  in  his  hours  of  leisure,  as  the  gay,  liberal  host 
in  a social  community,  his  “ bruised  arms  hung  up  for  monuments,” 
as  he  thought,  forever. 

But  it  was  not  so  to  be,  for  in  1775  the  war  for  American  Inde- 
pendence began,  and  Washington  was  appointed  as  the  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  the  Continental  army.  During  the  war  he  seldom  visited 
Mount  Vernon,  but  when  it  was  over  he  resumed  his  life  on  the  estate, 
and  for  five  years  the  mansion  was  continually  full  of  distinguished 
guests,  who  came  to  pay  homage  to  the  patriot  and  soldier  who  had 
achieved  the  liberty  of  his  country.  He  became  once  more  the  active 
farmer  and  the  profuse  Virginia  host.  In  a letter  written  to  Lafayette 
in  1784,  Washington  said:  “I  am  become  a private  citizen  on  the 
banks  of  the  Potomac,  and  under  the  shade  of  my  own  vine  and  fig- 
tree,  free  from  the  bustle  of  a camp  and  the  busy  scenes  of  public 


19 


290 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


life,  I am  solacing  myself 
with  those  tranquil  enjoyments 
of  which  the  soldier,  who  is 
ever  in  pursuit  of  fame,  the  statesman, 
whose  watchful  days  and  sleepless  nights 
are  spent  in  devising  schemes  to  promote  the  welfare  of  his  own,  per- 
haps the  ruin  of  other  countries,  can  have  very  little  conception.  I 
have  not  only  retired  from  all  public  employments,  but  1 am  retiring 
within  myself,  and  shall  be  able  to  view  the  solitary  walk  and  treail 
the  paths  of  private  life,  with  a heartfelt  satisfaction.  Envious  ol 
none,  I am  determined  to  be  pleased  with  all,  and  this,  my  dear  Iriend, 
being  the  order  of  my  march,  I will  move  gently  down  the  stream  ot 
life  until  I sleep  with  my  fathers.” 

But  again  it  was  not  so  to  be,  for  on  the  14th  of  April,  1789,  a 
messenger  rode  up  to  the  door  of  the  Mount  Vernon  mansion,  bear- 
ing the  ollicial  intelligence  that  Washington  had  been  unanimously 
elected  as  the  First  President  of  the  United  States,  and  that  he  was 
requested  by  Congress  to  immediately  assume  the  ollice.  1 wo  days 
later,  Washington  dejiarted  for  New  York  to  be  inaugurated  as  Presi- 
dent, and  on  his  journey  thither  he  was  the  recipient  of  ovations  in 


WASHINGTON’S  BED-CH AMBER. 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


291 


MARTHA  Washington’s  red-chamber. 


the  towns  and  cities  through  which  he  passed,  and  his  entry  into  the 
metropolis  was  made  the  occasion  of  a grand  jubilee.  He  took  the 
oath  of  office  on  the  30th  of  April. 

Then  followed  eight  years  of  the  honors  and  duties  of  the  Presi- 
dency, relieved  now  and  then  by  short  visits  to  the  Virginia  home. 
A few  days  before  he  finished  his  official  career  he  celebrated  his 
sixty-fifth  birthday,  and  on  the  4th  of  March,  1797,  he  attended 
the  inauguration  of  John  Adams  as  President,  and  soon  after  de- 
parted from  Philadelphia  for  Mount  Vernon.  Throughout  his  long 
public  life  he  had  been  faithful  to  the  trusts  confided  to  him,  and  no 
taint  of  dishonor  had  ever  sullied  his  character. 

During  the  two  years  and  nine  months  which  passed  between  his 
retirement  from  office  and  his  death,  Washington  never  went  twenty 
miles  from  home.  Occasionally  the  cream-colored  chariot  he  had 
used  while  President  would  be  brought  out,  six  blooded  horses 
attached  to  it,  and,  with  servants  in  livery,  away  would  go  the  hero 
and  his  wife  to  pay  ceremonious  visits  in  the  neighborhood,  or  to 


292 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Alexandria,  or  to  the  new  capital  city  slowly  and  toilsomely  being 
prepared  for  the  use  of  the  government.  But  usually,  day  by  day  he 
was  busy  with  his  farming  operations,  with  improving  his  property,  and 
putting  his  long-neglected  affairs  in  order.  He  had  a host  of  farm 
hands,  and  their  little  cabins  dotted  the  estate  ; he  had  nearly  one  hun- 
dred horses  and  mules  for  heavy  work,  and  a stable  full  of  steeds  in 
whose  blood  and  beauty  he  took  considerable  pride.  He  had  more 
than  three  hundred  head  of  cattle,  and  great  numbers  of  sbeep  and 
swine,  and  raised  bountiful  crops  of  the  staples.  He  relinquished 
the  field-sports  of  his  earlier  life,  saw  less  company,  and  was  very 
methodical  in  the  disposition  of  his  time. 

His  habits  and  tastes  were  simple.  It  was  his  custom  to  rise 
early,  to  shave  and  dress  himself  unattended,  and  after  a frugal 
breakfast  of  Indian  cake  and  tea,  to  mount  his  horse  for  a long  ride 
round  his  plantations.  He  would  closely  inspect  the  work  of  his  la- 
borers, consult  with  his  managers,  and  be  entirely  absorbed  in  the  ex- 
tensive agricultural  operations.  Dinner  was  served  at  three  o’clock, 
after  which  he  would  employ  himself  in  the  library  with  his  private 
secretary  for  two  or  three  hours.  The  evenings  were  devoted  to 
amusements  with  the  family.  He  was  free  and  kindly  in  his  man- 
ner, was  always  in  a cheerful  mood,  and  frequently  laughed  heartily 
at  the  jokes  and  pleasantries  of  his  adopted  children  and  relatives  ; 
and,  as  his  nephew  has  said,  “was  so  agreeable  to  all  that  it  was 
hard  to  realize  that  he  was  the  same  Washington  whose  dignity  had 
awed  all  who  approached  him.”  On  his  cheeks  was  a clear,  healthy 
flush,  and  he  had  retained  much  of  the  grace  and  comeliness  of 
youth.  In  height  he  was  two  inches  over  six  feet,  and  was  slim 
and  straight,  and  he  had  remarkable  muscular  power  and  endurance. 

Thus,  in  congenial  occupation,  and  by  the  side  of  that  sweet  and 
affectionate  woman  who  had  been  his  constant  companion  for  two- 
score  years,  the  last  days  of  the  eventful  life  of  this  greatest  of  Vir- 
ginia planters  glided  peacefully  away. 

A circumstantial  account  of  the  death  of  Washington,  written  by 
Tobias  Lear,  who  was  his  private  secretary  for  nearly  fifteen  years, 
is  preserved.  It  appears  from  this  account  that  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  13th  of  December,  1799,  Washington  was  engaged  in  surveying 
the  lawn  round  the  mansion,  and  marking  some  trees  he  wished  felled. 
He  had  taken  a slight  cold  the  day  previous  while  riding  in  a storm 
of  sleet  and  snow,  and  had  remained  in-doors  on  the  morning  of  the 
13th,  but  as  the  sun  shone  warm  in  the  afternoon,  he  went  about  the 
surveying.  That  evening  he  complained  of  hoarseness,  but  sat  up 


MOUNT  VERNON 


293 


later  than  usual,  reading  the  newspapers  that  had  just  arrived,  fre- 
quently reading  aloud  to  the  family,  in  spite  of  his  hoarseness.  About 
two  o’clock  the  next  morning  he  woke  his  wife,  saying  that  he  felt  ill, 
but  would  not  allow  her  to  rise  and  attend  to  him  for  fear  she  should 
catch  a cold.  At  daybreak,  when  the  servant  came  into  the  chamber  to 
build  the  fire,  she  was  sent  to  arouse  Mr.  Lear,  who  immediately  re- 
sponded to  the  call.  Horses  were  saddled  and  servants  dispatched 
at  once  to  Alexandria  and  Port  Tobacco  for  physicians,  as  it  was  seen 
that  Washington  was  seriously  ill.  He  was  bled,  and  when  the  phy- 
sicians arrived  they  repeated  the  bleeding,  and  used  their  utmost  skill 
to  relieve  him,  but  he  lay  in  pain  and  distress  all  day,  breathing  with 
great  difficulty,  and  scarcely  able  to  speak  at  times.  Toward  night 
he  said  to  his  attendants:  I feel  myself  going,  I thank  you  for 

your  attentions,  but  I pray  you  -take  no  more  trouble  about  me. 
Let  me  go  off  quietly  ; I cannot  last  long.” 

Mr.  Lear  says:  “About  ten  o’clock  he  said  to  me,  ‘ I am  fast 


THE  HALL  AT  MOUNT  VERNON. 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


294 

going.  Have  me  decently  interred,  but  do  not  let  my  body  be  put 
into  the  vault  in  less  than  three  days  after  I am  dead.’  I bowed  as- 
sent. He  then  looked  at  me  again  and  said : ‘ Do  you  understand?’ 

I replied,  ‘ Yes.’  ‘ ’Tis  well,’  said  he.  About  ten  minutes  before  he 
expired  (which  was  between  ten  and  eleven  o’clock)  his  breathing 
became  easier.  He  lay  quietly ; he  withdrew  his  hand  from  mine 
and  felt  his  own  pulse.  I saw  his  countenance  change.  I spoke  to 
Dr.  Craik,  who  sat  by  the  fire.  He  came  to  the  bedside.  The 
General’s  hand  fell  from  his  wrist.  I took  it  in  mine  and  pressed  it 
to  my  bosom.  Dr.  Craik  put  his  hands  over  his  eyes,  and  he  expired 
without  a struggle  or  a sigh.” 

“While  we  were  fixed  in  silent  grief,”  continues  Mr.  Lear,  “ Mrs. 
Washington,  who  was  sitting  at  the  foot  of  the  bed,  asked  with  a firm, 
collected  voice,  ‘Is  he  gone?’  I could  not  speak,  but  held  up  my 
hand  as  a signal  that  he  was  no  more.  ‘ ’Tis  well,’  said  she  in  the 
same  voice  ; ‘ all  is  over  now.  I shall  soon  follow  him.  I have  no 
more  trials  to  pass  through.’” 

In  this  manner  passed  from  earth  this  pure  spirit,  this  patriot  and 
sage,  before  he  had  completed  his  sixty-eighth  year.  The  cause  of 
his  death  was  acute  laryngitis. 

Washington  never  had  a child  of  his  own,  but  at  the  death  of 
Major  John  Parke  Custis,  the  eldest  son  of  Mrs.  Washington  by  her 
first  husband,  he  adopted  his  two  younger  children,  Eleanor  Parke 
Custis,  afterward  Mrs.  Lawrence  Lewis,  and  George  Washington 
Parke  Custis,  and  they  lived  at  Mount  Vernon  until  after  the  death 
of  their  grandmother.  As  his  wife  was  amply  provided  for,  having 
a fortune  of  her  own,  and  as  the  Custis  children  inherited  their 
father’s  large  estate,  Washington  bequeathed  Mount  Vernon  to  his 
nephew.  Judge  Bushrod  Washington.  He  also  made  bequests  to  all 
his  relatives,  and  directed  that  his  slaves  should  be  liberated  and 
provided  with  the  means  of  obtaining  their  livelihood.  Some  of  the 
descendants  of  these  slaves  still  live  in  that  portion  of  Virginia. 

After  the  death  of  Judge  Washington  in  1826,  Mount  Vernon  de- 
scended to  his  nephew,  John  Augustine  Washington.  He  died  in 
1832,  and  his  widow,  Jane  Waslungton,  was  the  next  heir.  In  1855 
her  son,  John  A.  Washington,  was  tlie  last  of  tlie  family  to  hold  pos- 
session of  tlie  estate.  He  had  not  tlie  means  to  keep  it  in  proper 
order,  and  in  i860  disposed  of  it  through  the  State  of  Virginia  to  the 
Mount  Vernon  Association  for  the  sum  of  if?200,ooo.  This  associa- 
tion was  incorporated  for  the  sole  purpose  of  acquiring  Mount  Ver- 
non, and  by  the  terms  of  its  charter  the  estate  can  never  pass  from  its 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


295 


possession.  Virginia  retains  a super- 
vision over  it,  and  appoints  a board  of 
visitors  whose  duty  it  is  to  examine  the 
property  annually  and  report  if  the  char- 
ter conditions  have  been  faithfully  observed. 

The  project  to  purchase  Mount  Vernon,  and  preserve  the  home  of 
Washington  from  decay,  originated  with  a Southern  woman  named 
Famelia  Cunningham.  When  its  last  proprietor  announced  his  in- 
tention of  selling  the  estate,  this  devoted  woman  quickly  obtained  the 
refusal  of  it  for  a certain  time.  She  first  appealed  to  Congress  for 
the  purchase-money,  but  without  success,  and  then,  under  the  title  of 
“ The  Southern  Matron,”  caused  to  be  circulated  a strong  appeal  to 
the  women  of  America  for  aid  in  the  patriotic  work.  She  secured  a 
charter  from  the  Virginia  Legislature,  organized  an  association,  of 
which  she  became  the  Regent,  appointed  vice-regents  in  the  various 
states,  and  began  to  collect  the  funds.  Contributions,  large  and 
small,  were  received  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  Edward 
Everett,  by  his  writings  and  lectures,  contributed  over  $68,000,  the 
largest  single  contribution.  In  one  way  and  another  the  full  amount 
was  obtained,  and  Mount  Vernon  was  saved  to  the  Nation. 


THE  STATE  PARLOR, 
MOUNT  VERNON. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIONS  TO  VISITORS  TO  THE  NATIONAL  CAPITAI A GOOD 

WAY  TO  SEE  AND  ENJOY  THE  PRINCIPAL  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  A SHORT 
TIME  — THE  HOURS  TO  VISIT  THE  CAPITOL,  THE  WHITE  HOUSE,  AND  THE 
DEPARTMENTS— GENERAL  INFORMATION  RELATING  TO  THE  CITY  AND  ITS 
CUSTOMS. 

TO  become  well  acquainted  with  the  National  Capital,  and  to 
thoroughly  enjoy  its  many  distinctive  features,  an  extended 
visit  is  necessary.  It  is  a spacious  city,  branching  out  in  all 
directions,  and  everywhere  within  it  are  numerous  objects  of 
interest  and  beautiful  localities  which  will  repay  careful  and  repeated 
inspection.  But  as  hundreds  of  visitors  are  pressed  for  time,  and  yet 
desire  to  see  as  much  as  possible,  and  the  most  interesting  things,  a 
few  hints  and  suggestions  may  be  of  service. 

A good  way  to  begin  sight-seeing  when  limited  as  to  time,  and 
perhaps  when  not  limited,  is  to  take  a carriage  with  an  intelligent 
driver,  or  one  of  the  many  hansom  cabs,  and  leisurely  ride  through 
the  centre  of  the  city  — the  northwest  quarter.  A ride  like  this  will 
enable  a stranger  to  obtain  a general  view  of  the  prominent  localities 
in  a short  time,  and  serve  to  fix  them  in  tlie  memory.  The  route 
should  be  taken  through  the  central  portions  of  Pennsylvania  Avenue, 
and  Seventh,  Ninth,  and  F streets,  and  afterward  through  the 
fashionable  West  End. 

By  riding  the  entire  length  of  Connecticut  Avenue  from  Lafayette 
Park  to  Dupont  Circle,  then  by  extending  the  route  through  George- 
town, up  Georgetown  Heights,  passing  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  out  on 
the  Tennallytown  Road  may  be  seen  Oak  View,  the  residence 
of  President  Cleveland  ; by  such  route,  returning  by  the  way 
of  Woodley  Lane  through  Massachusetts  Avenue,  much  of  the 
“ palatial  section”  will  be  traversed.  Again,  by  continuing  the  ride 
on  Seventh  Street,  below  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  the  grounds  of  the 
Mall  can  be  inspected,  with  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  the  Na- 
tional Museum,  the  Department  of  Agriculture  Building,  the  Bureau 


HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIONS 


297 


The  Capitol  should 
be  thoroughly  inspec- 
ted, even  if  other  ob- 


jects of  interest  are  the  senator  bayard  mansion. 

slighted.  It  is  the 

grandest  edifice  in  America,  and  in  many  particulars  in  the  world. 
No  picture  can  do  it  j'ustice  ; no  hasty  inspection  will  reveal  its  mani- 
fold wonders.  The  time  taken  to  carefully  examine  its  massive  and 
splendid  architectural  features,  and  its  interesting  special  depart- 


of  Printing  and  En- 
graving, and  the 
W ashington  Mon  u- 
ment.  In  fact,  a ride 
over  such  a route  will 
enable  one  to  see  in 
rapid  succession  the 
White  House,  the 
Treasury  Building, 
all  the  department 
buildings,  and  many 
of  the  finest  churches, 
mansions,  institu- 
tions, parks,  squares 
and  circles,  and  busi- 
ness structures.  Af- 
terward the  ride  might 
be  continued  to  the 
Capitol  and  through 
its  grounds,  and  then 
down  East  Capitol 
Street  as  far  as  the 
statue  of  Emancipa- 
tion, returning  by  way 
of  NorthCarolina  and 
Pennsylvania  ave- 
nues. A good  view 
of  Capitol  Hill  can 
thus  be  obtained. 


298 


picturesque  WASHINGTON. 


ments,  will  be  well  spent,  and  the  intimate  knowledge  gained  will 
be  much  appreciated  afterward.  The  Halls  of  Congress  should  be 
closely  studied,  and  if  an  opportunity  is  afforded  to  attend  a night- 
session  of  Congress,  it  should  be  improved.  By  no  means  fail  to 
ascend  the  dome  of  the  Capitol,  even  if  it  does  require  rather  severe 
exercise.  A guide  can  be  profitably  employed  in  the  building,  as  it 
is  one  to  easily  “ get  lost”  in. 

The  White  House  is  open  to  visitors  from  10  a.  m.  to  2 p.  m., 
every  week-day.  The  East  Room  can  be  entered  at  any  time  dur- 
ing these  hours,  and  at  short  intervals  an  attendant  escorts  visitors 
through  the  other  state  parlors.  The  President  is  usually  “ at  home” 
to  those  who  desire  to  pay  their  respects  to  him,  but  being  a man  of 
many  important  affairs,  he  frequently  keeps  his  visitors  waiting  for  an 
hour  or  two  before  he  can  receive  them.  While  calling  on  him  it 
would  be  well  to  bear  in  mind  the  old  adage  about  “ short  visits.” 

The  department  buildings  are  all  open  to  visitors  from  9 A.  M.  to 
4 p.  M.  The  State,  War,  and  Navy  Building  has  innumerable  finely 
furnished  apartments,  but  few  objects  of  special  interest.  When  a 
visitor  has  walked  through  one  long  corridor,  and  looked  into  two  or 
three  of  the  apartments,  particularly  those  occupied  by  the  Depart- 
ment of  State,  and  taken  perhaps  a glance  at  some  of  the  ancient 
historical  documents  in  this  department,  the  building  will  be  “ done” 
well  enough  for  ordinary,  hasty  sight-seeing.  Of  course  if  a visitor 
has  plenty  of  time  an  entire  day  might  be  spent  in  this  great  building, 
and  the  luxurious  appointments  of  the  three  departments  carefully  in- 
spected. In  the  Treasury  Building  the  cash-room,  the  money-vaults, 
the  counting  division,  and  the  Secret  Service  office,  are  about  all  the 
places  worth  paying  much  attention  to.  In  the  Patent  Office  the  Model 
Museum,  and  in  the  Post-Office  Department  the  Dead-Letter  Office, 
are  of  interest,  but  the  remainder  of  these  buildings  can  be  very 
quickly  disposed  of.  The  National  Museum  should  be  thoroughly 
e.xamined,  as  it  is  a great  “world’s  fair,”  and  full  of  attractions. 
The  museum  in  the  Department  of  Agriculture,  and  the  Army  Med- 
ical Museum  are  replete  with  interest.  An  hour  or  two  may  be 
agreeably  spent  in  the  Government  Printing-Office,  and  in  tlie  Bureau 
of  Printing  and  Engraving,  where  the  government  currency  is  printed. 
Visitors  will  find  the  department  employ(^s  very  courteous  as  a rule, 
and  there  need  be  no  hesitation  in  applying  to  tliose  stationed  in  the 


HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


299 


corridors  of  the  buildings  for  information,  as  in  most  cases  it  is  part 
of  their  duty  to  attend  to  persons  seeking  information. 

A spot  which  is  of  great  interest  to  visitors  is  the  new  Garfield 
Circle,  where  the  Garfield  Monument  is  located,  at  the  intersection 
of  Maryland  Avenue  and  First  Street,  west  of  the  Capitol,  and  ad- 
joining the  Capitol  grounds.  It  was  erected  by  the  members  of  the 
Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland,  on  May  12th,  1887.  It 
represents  Garfield  standing,  and  in  the  act  of  delivering  his  in- 
augural address  as  President  of  the  United  States.  The  statue  is 
cast  in  bronze,  and  stands  upon  a circular  pedestal  of  granite.  At 
the  base  of  the  pedestal  are  three  bronze  figures,  each  in  a reclining 
position.  One  of  these  figures  represents  a student,  one  a w^arrior, 
and  the  other  a statesman,  each  being  typical  of  the  three  important 
stages  in  Garfield’s  life.  The  granite  pedestal  is  inscribed  upon 
three  sides  with  suitable  inscriptions,  and  the  whole  monument  is 
one  of  the  most  tasteful  and  pleasing  in  the  city.  It  cost  $65,000. 


THE  SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION. 


300 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


The  Navy  Yard  is  open  daily  from  nine  to  four.  Visitors,  by 
applying  at  the  office  of  the  commodore  in  charge  of  the  yard,  can 
obtain  a permit  to  inspect  the  naval  museum,  the  monitors  and  ships 
of  w'ar,  and  the  great  work-shops.  The  cars  of  the  Washington  and 
Georgetown  street  railroad,  and  the  herdics  I'unning  on  Pennsylvania 
Avenue,  will  convey  visitors  directly  to  the  Navy  Yard  entrance. 

The  Marine  Barracks  and  the  United  States  Barracks  are  open 
to  public  inspection  every  day.  The  cars  of  the  Seventh  Street  line 
go  to  the  entrance  to  the  grounds  of  the  United  States  Barracks. 

In  the  Smithsonian  Institution  will  be  found  many  curious  and 
interesting  objects.  The  institution  is  open  daily  from  nine  to  four, 
and  its  collections  of  natural  history  can  be  freely  inspected. 

Persons  are  frequently  allowed  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  Wash- 
ington Monument.  Application  for  a permit  should  be  made  to  the 
official  in  charge  of  the  monument.  The  view  from  the  top  is  exceed- 
ingly beautiful. 

The  best  time  to  visit  the  great  Center  Market  is  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, or  on  Saturda}"  evening.  The  Northern  Liberty  Market  is  also 
worth  a visit. 

On  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays  there  is  no  charge  for 
admission  to  the  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art.  On  other  days  tickets  of 
admission  are  twent}^-five  cents.  The  gallery  is  open  from  lo  a.  m. 
to  4 P.  M. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  take  a carriage  to  the  Soldiers’  Home,  and 
to  the  Arlington  Military  Cemetery,  as  there  are  no  regular  convey- 
ances. They  can  both  be  visited  in  a morning’s  ride,  and  ought  to 
be  included  in  the  list  of  things  worth  seeing.  On  the  way  to  the 
Soldiers’  Home  an  inspection  can  be  made  of  Howard  University, 
and  on  the  way  to  Arlington  the  Georgetown  College  and  Oak  Hill 
Cemetery  can  be  inspected. 

The  Government  Hospital  for  the  Insane  is  open  to  visitors  only 
on  Wednesdays  from  2 to  6 p.  m.  A private  conveyance  will  be  nec- 
essary. 

No  one  should  leave  Washington  without  visiting  Mount  Vernon. 
The  steamboat  leaves  the  wharf,  foot  of  Seventh  Street,  every  morn- 
ing at  10  o’clock,  and  returns  to  the  city  at  3.30.  The  fare  is  one 
dollar,  which  includes  admission  to  the  grounds  and  mansion.  Visi- 


HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


3or 


tors  have  little  more  than  two  hours  in  which  to  inspect  this  most 
famous  of  America’s  historic  treasures. 

The  fare  in  the  street  cars  and  the  herdics  is  five  cents,  or  six 
tickets  for  twenty-five  cents.  Cab  rates  are,  by  the  trip,  fifteen  blocks 
or  less,  each  passenger,  between  5 a.  m.  and  12.30  noon,  twenty-five 
cents  ; between  12.30  noon  and  5 a.  m.,  forty  cents.  By  the  hour, 
for  one  or  two  passengers,  between  5 a.  m.  and  12.30  noon,  seventy- 
five  cents  ; between  12.30  noon  and  5 a.  m.,  $1.00  ; and  hack  rates 
are  nearly  the  same.  Special  rates  are  made  for  excursions. 

The  city  post-office  is  located  on  Louisiana  Avenue,  near  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue  and  Seventh  Street.  The  money-order  office  is  in 
the  second  story. 

The  three  regular  theatres,  Albaugh’s  Grand  Opera  House,  the 
New  National  Theatre,  and  Harris’  Bijou  Opera  House,  furnish  ex- 


30 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON 


cellent  entertainments  during  tlie  dramatic  season.  They  are  con- 
ducted in  a first-class  manner. 

There  are  many  hotels  in  the  city,  and  visitors  can  easily  suit 
themselves  as  to  prices,  etc.  Persons  intending  to  remain  for  several 
weeks  can  secure  pleasant  rooms  in  private  families,  with  or  without 
board,  at  reasonable  prices.  There  are  many  good  restaurants 
throughout  the  centre  of  the  cit}'. 

Washington  is  a progressive  city,  and  is  continuing  to  have  a 
great  development,  with  every  promise  of  still  greater  prosperity.  It 
will  develop  in  art,  in  taste,  in  business  facilities,  and  in  all  those 
things  which  make  a city  I'eally  prosperous  and  delightful.  Beautiful 
and  attractive  as  it  is  at  present,  its  beauty  and  attractions  are  likely  to 
be  greatly  enhanced.  No  one  is  jealous  of  its  growth  and  increasing 
prosperity  — no  one  would  stay  its  progress  ; for  it  is  the  Nation’s  city, 
and  reflects  the  grandeur  and  importance  of  the  American  people. 


o5  » 4 


INDEX 


Adams,  John,  147. 

John  Qiiincy,  no,  152. 

Agriculture,  Department  of,  227. 

Commissioner  of,  22S. 

Museum  of,  231. 

Alexandria,  276. 

Ancient  Archives  (Department  of  State),  170. 
Aqueduct  Bridge,  272. 

Architects  of  the  Capitol,  70,  71,  74. 

Patent  OfHce,  214. 

Post-Office,  205. 

Treasury,  175, 176, 

Architect  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  Build- 
ing, 230. 

State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  16S. 

White  House,  138. 

Arlington  Military  Cemetery,  273. 

History  of,  275. 

House,  276. 

Army,  Generals  of  the,  192. 

Headquarters,  192. 

Medical  Museum,  194. 

Pay  of  Officers  of  the,  192. 

Arthur,  Chester  A.,  166. 

Attorney-General,  The,  225. 

Auditors  of  the  Treasury,  181. 

Barracks,  United  States,  198. 

Marine,  202. 

Benton,  Thomas  Hart,  116. 

Benevolent  Institutions,  262. 

Board  of  Public  Works,  50. 

Botanical  Garden,  84. 

British  Invasion,  The,  38. 

Buchanan,  James,  160. 

Bureau  of  Education,  223. 

Engraving  and  Printing,  184. 

Indexes  and  Archives,  170. 

Indian  Affairs,  222. 

Military  Justice,  193. 

Navigation,  201. 

War  Records,  193. 

Yards  and  Docks.  202. 

Buren,  Martin  Van,  116,  156. 

Burning  of  the  Capitol,  72. 

Model  Museum,  216. 

Post-Office,  206. 


Burning  of  the  Treasury,  175. 

White  House,  149. 

Burns,  David,  31. 

Marcia,  32, 

Cabin  John  Bridge,  272. 

Calhoun,  John  C.,  116. 

Canal,  Alexandria,  273, 

Chesapeake  and  Ohio,  272, 

Capitol,  The,  Architects  of,  70,  71,  74. 
Bronze  Doors  of,  78,  80, 

Burning  of,  72. 

Central  Portico  of,  78. 

Corner-stone  of,  71,  75. 

Cost  of,  74,  86. 

Crypt  in,  91. 

Description  of,  77. 

Design  of,  70. 

Dome  of,  81. 

Extension  of,  74. 

Grand  Staircases  of,  120,  121. 
Grounds  of,  $2. 

Historical  Paintings  of,  90,  120,  121. 
History  of,  69. 

Rotunda  of,  89. 

Statuary  Hall  of,  92. 

Statuary  of,  77,  So,  S3,  84,  94,  120,  lai 
Carroll,  Daniel,  30. 

Center  Market,  260. 

Chinese  Legation,  172. 

Churches,  254. 

Circles,  62. 
j Civil  War,  The,  46. 

Soldiers  and  Sailors  in,  217. 
Classified  Clerkships,  247. 

Clay,  Henry,  113. 

Cleveland,  Grover,  iC6. 

College  of  the  Jesuits,  270. 

Colored  Population,  The,  247. 

Columbia  Institution  for  Deaf  and  Dumb,  2 
Columbian  University,  26S. 

Commissioner  of  Agriculture,  22S. 

Customs,  187. 

Education,  214. 

Indian  Affairs,  214. 

Internal  Revenue,  187. 

Land  Office,  214. 


3o6 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Commissioner  of  Patents,  2i', 

Pensions,  214. 

Railroads,  214. 

Comptroller  of  the  Currency,  1S6. 

Congressional  Cemetery,  264. 

Congress  oflhe  United  States,  The,  123. 

Cost  of  Sessions  of,  123. 

Early  Customs  of,  loS. 

Famous  Members  of,  i;o. 

First  Session  in  Washington  of,  107. 

Halls  of  the  Houses  of,  iiS,  120. 

Library  of,  100, 

Lobbyists  and  Claimants  in,  132. 

Methods  of  Legislation  in,  124,  12S. 

Record  of,  133. 

Representatives  in,  124. 

Connecticut  Avenue,  240. 

Convent  of  the  Visitation,  258. 

Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art,  251. 

Cottage  of  David  Burns,  32. 

Crawford  Bronze  Door,  So. 

Death  of  Lincoln,  47. 

Washington,  293. 

Department  of  Agriculture,  227. 

Justice,  225, 

State,  167. 

The  Interior,  213,  223. 

Diplomatic  and  Consular  Service,  173. 

Director  of  the  Geological  Survey,  314. 

Mint,  1S7. 

Distribution  of  Seeds  (Dept,  of  Agriculture),  330. 
District  Court  House,  226, 

District  of  Columbia,  The,  iS. 

Boundary  stone  of,  27. 

Explorations  of,  20. 

First  Commissioners  of.  27, 

Government  of,  55. 

Indians  of,  20. 

Manufactures  of,  55. 

Schools  of,  256. 

Settlement  of,  21. 

Duddington  House,  30. 

Dupont  Circle,  62. 

Ellicott,  Andrew,  2S. 

English  Legation,  174. 

Etiquette,  Official  and  Social,  100,  142,  146,  174.  243. 
Explorations  of  Upper  Potomac,  22. 

Farragut  Square  (Statue  of  Farragut),  59. 

Federal  Territory,  The,  Selection  of,  23. 

Fillmore,  Millard,  159. 


Fire  Department.  The,  264. 

First  Comptroller  of  Treasury,  180. 

First  Proprietors  Washington  land.  29. 

Fleet,  Henry,  Explorations  by,  20. 

Foreign  Legations,  172. 

Franklin  Square,  61. 

Freedmen’s  Hospital,  202. 

Garfield,  James  A.,  166. 

Memorial  Church,  256. 

Memorial  Tablet  to,  265. 

Monument,  299. 

General  Land  Office,  219. 

Post-Office,  2c6. 

Geological  Survey,  223. 

Georgetown,  270. 

College,  270. 

Laying  out  of,  22. 

Gonzaga  College,  25S. 

Government  Clerks,  244. 

Employes,  Number  of,  53. 

Hospital  for  Insane,  369. 
Printing-Office,  236. 

Grand  Review  of  Volunteer  Army,  47. 

Grant,  Ulysses  S.,  165. 

Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  271. 

Great  Statesmen,  no. 

Greene  Square  (Statue  of  Gen.  Greene),  60, 
Growth  of  Washington,  3S,  43,  44,  46,  50,  53. 

Harrison,  William  Henry,  157. 

Hayes,  Rutherford  B.,  165. 

Hints  to  Visitors,  296. 

Hotels,  263. 

House  of  Representatives,  130. 

Hall  of,  120. 

Howard  University,  367. 

Hydrographic  Office  (Navy  Department),  201. 

Interior,  Department  of  the,  213. 

Secretary  of  the,  313, 

Iowa  Circle,  62. 

Jackson,  Andrew,  154. 

Statue  of,  59 
Japanese  Minister,  173. 

Jay,  John,  Chief  J ustice,  9S. 

JefTerson,  Thomas,  14S. 

Statue  of,  131. 

Johnson,  Andrew,  165. 

Judiciary  Square,  61. 

Justice,  Department  of,  226. 

Lafayette  Square  (Statue  of  Jackson),  59, 

Land  taken  for  Washington,  2S. 


INDEX. 


307 


Law  Schools,  25S. 

L’Enfant,  Pierre  Charles,  27,  2S,  34. 

Library  of  Con'jress,  100. 

Lincoln,  Abraliam,  162. 

Death  of,  47. 

Square  (Statue  of  Emancipation),  60, 
Statue,  62,  94. 

Lobbyists,  132. 

Long  Bridge,  64. 

Louise  Home,  The,  253. 

Mace,  The,  in  House  of  Representatives,  loS. 
Madison,  James,  149. 

Manners  and  Customs  in  Early  Days,  43. 

Market  Hucksters,  The,  249. 

Marshall,  John,  Chief  Justice,  9S. 

Masonic  Temple,  263. 

Massachusetts  Avenue,  5S. 

McPherson  Square  (Statue  of  General  McPher- 
son), 60. 

Military  Organizations,  265* 

Monroe,  James,  151, 

Mount  Vernon,  279. 

History  of,  2S9. 

Mansion  at,  2S0, 

Martha  Washington’s  Chamber  at,  2S5. 

Old  Tomb  at,  2S3. 

Possessors  of,  294. 

Project  to  Purchase,  295. 

Rooms  in  Mansion  at,  2S5. 

Tomb  of  Washington  at,  2S4. 

Washington’s  Chamber  at,  2S4. 
Washington’s  Death  at,  293. 

Washington’s  Life  at,  289. 

National  Deaf  Mute  College,  268. 

Library,  100. 

Medical  College,  25S. 

Military  Cemetery,  273. 

Museum,  235, 

Soldiers  and  Sailors  Orphan  Home,  262. 
Naval  Monument,  84. 

Observatory,  202. 

Navy  Department,  The,  200. 

Pay  of  Officers  of  the,  200. 

Secretary  of  the,  aoo. 

Yard,  202. 

Newspapers,  262, 

Northern  Liberty  Market,  261. 

Oak  Hill  Cemetery,  264. 

Odd  Fellows*  Building,  263, 

Official  Society,  242, 

Old  Capitol,  The,  73. 


Oldest  Senator,  The,  130. 

Old  War  Department  Building,  190, 

Opposition  to  the  Capital,  37. 

Ordnance  Museum,  196, 

Original  Landholders,  29,  34. 

Painting,  Perry’s  Victory  on  Lake  Erie,  120. 

Proclamation  of  Emancipation,  121, 
Palatial  Mansions,  240. 

Parking  System,  5$. 

Parks,  References  to,  59,  62,  66,  82,  ^4,  139,  230,  234, 
Patent  Office,  The,  214. 

Library  of,  216. 

Museum  of  Models  of,  216. 

Official  Gazette  of,  215. 

Pennsylvania  Avenue,  57. 

Pensioners,  Number  of,  217. 

Pension  Office,  The,  217. 

New  Building  of,  21S. 

Pierce,  Franklin,  159. 

Plan  of  Washington,  28,  56. 

Police  Force,  264. 

Polk,  James  K.,  15S. 

Population  of  Washington,  44,  46,  52. 

Colored,  247. 

Postmaster  General,  The,  206, 

Post-Office  Department,  The,  205. 

Contract  Office  of,  208. 

Dead-Letter  Office  of,  209. 

Divisions  of,  207. 

Money-Order  Office  of,  211. 

Star  Service  of,  207. 

Presidents  of  the  United  States,  The,  147  to  166. 
President’s  Room,  Capitol,  1 iS. 

Project  to  Remove  the  Capital,  49. 

Property  Valuation,  55. 

Public  Documents,  135. 

Lands,  220. 

Markets,  259. 

Schools,  256. 

■Quarters  of  Washington, 62. 

Railroads,  224,  265. 

Randolph,  John,  112. 

Rawlins  Square  (Statue  of  General  Rawlins  , 60. 
Register  of  the  Treasury,  xS6. 

Rogers  Bronze  Door,  78. 

Sale  of  Lots,  First  Public,  34. 

Schools,  Public,  256. 

Scott  Square  (Statue  of  General  Scott',  59. 

Selection  of  Federal  Territory,  23. 

Senate  Chamber,  118. 

Senate  in  Session,  128. 


3o8 


PICTURESQUE  WASHINGTON. 


Shepherd,  Alexander  R.,  50. 

Signal  Office,  or  Weather  Bureau,  196. 

Situation  of  Washington,  19. 

Slave  and  Free  Labor,  ^o. 

Smithsonian  Institution,  233. 

Social  Season,  The,  242. 

Soldiers  and  Sailors  in  Civil  War,  217. 

Soldiers’  Home,  19S. 

Solicitor  of  the  Treasury,  226. 

Squares,  59. 

Star  Routes  (Post-Office  Department),  207. 

State,  Department  of,  167, 

Secretary  of,  167. 

War,  Navy  and  Building,  16S. 

Statuary  Hall,  Capitol,  92. 

Statues  from  States  in,  94. 

Statue  of  Civilization,  7S. 

Columbus,  78. 

Farragut,  59. 

Franklin,  120. 

Freedom, Capital  Dome,  Si. 

Greene,  60. 

Jackson,  59. 

Jefferson,  121. 

Lincoln,  60,  62, 94. 

McPherson,  60. 

Rawlins,  60. 

Scott,  59,  199. 

Thomas,  62. 

Washington,  by  Greenough,  S3. 

Houdon,  94. 

Mills,  62. 

Statues  in  Squares  and  Circles,  59  to  62. 

Streets  and  Avenues,  56. 

Summer  Residence  of  the  Presidents,  199. 

Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  9^. 

Chief  Justice  of  the,  98. 

District  of  Columbia,  226. 
Surgeon-General,  Department  of,  193. 

Taylor,  Zachary,  159. 

Theatres,  262. 

Thomas  Circle  (Statue  of  General  Thomas),  6a. 
Tomb  of  Washington,  284. 

Trade  of  Washington,  54. 

Transfer  ofGovernmcnt  to  Washington,  35. 
Transformation  of  Washington,  53. 

Treasury  Department,  The,  175. 

Bureau  of  Printing  and  Engraving  of,  184. 
Cash-Room  of,  1S4. 

Department,  Secret  Service  of,  187. 
Divisions  of,  179. 

Money-Vaults  of,  »8i. 


' Treasury  Department,  Officials  of,  178, 180,  181, 186. 
I Redemption  Division  of,  1S2. 

i Secretary  of  the,  178. 

Tyler, John,  158. 

Van  Ness,  John  P.,  33. 

Mansion,  33. 

View  from  Capitol  Dome,  86. 

War  Department,  The,  189, 

Divisions  of,  189,  193  to  19S. 

Secretary  of,  190. 

Washington  Asylum,  262. 

British  Invasion  of,  38. 

Bushrod,  Justice,  99. 

Circle  (Statue  of  Washington),  62. 

Colored  People  in,  247. 

Designer  of,  27,  2S,  34. 

Early  Customs  of,  43. 

Government  Employes  in,  53. 

Government  of,  55. 

Growth  of,  38,  43,  44,  46,  50.  52. 

History  of,  27  to  52. 

Monument,  The,  64. 

Original  Landholders,  of,  29,  34. 

Plan  of,  2$,  56. 

Population  of,  44,  46,  52. 

Schools  of,  257. 

Situation  of,  10. 

Streets  of,  56. 

Trade  of,  54. 

Transfer  of  Government  to,  35. 
Transformation  of,  52. 

Value  of  Property  in,  55. 

Water  Works,  266. 

Wayland  Seminary,  26S. 

Weather  Bureau,  The,  196. 

Webster,  Daniel,  114. 

West  End,  The,  239. 

White  House,  The,  137. 

Architect  of,  38. 

Burning  of,  by  British,  149. 

Cost  of,  13S,  142, 

Description  of,  13S. 

Employes  of,  143* 

Marriages  at,  149,  153,  154. 

Occupants  of,  147  to  166, 

Receptions  at,  146, 

Room.s  of,  139. 

Routine  of  Business  at,  142* 

**  Silver  Wedding  **  at,  166. 

Young,  Notlcy,  33. 


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